Reviews
![[Option]Bullet Atto/RhombusS/microS Mounting Section Conversion Adaptor](https://img.webike-cdn.net/catalogue/images/52549/KM152-812_TS.jpg)
Fits: Others microS, Others RhombusS, Others Bullet Atto
Kellerman OEM Product
Purchased to install Kellerman's Blinker.
I was able to install it without any problems.
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Used to extend BlinkerWiring
Used to extend the Right Side wiring as it was too short when replacing the Rear blinker.
Naturally, we were able to extend it without difficulty.
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CT125 was not supported.
I bought it with the naive hope that it would fit ServiceCoupler, but it did not fit at all.
I used only MarkTube, Bullet Terminal and Wiring and discarded Coupler.
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for BlinkerBullet Type Terminal replacement
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
The 900SL (900SS is the same) has a front blinker embedded in the cowl, which is unusual for a sports type motorbike, and is connected to the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness with a Bullet Type Terminal. The front blinker is embedded in the cowl, which is unusual for a sports type motorbike.
However, the Connector uses not only the Bullet Type Terminal, but also an ultra-thin Flat Terminal to connect the BlinkerBody to the Harness.
This is the same as the Flat Terminal of the stop lamp switch used in the front master cylinder, and is an example of a terminal that can break off if handled carelessly.
Bullet Type Terminals can be very difficult to remove when fitted tightly.
When pulling in a narrow cowl, it is easy to pull Wiring as hard as you can with the momentum of the pull out.
If the momentum breaks the ultra-thin terminal that connects to the BlinkerBody, it will be Large strange!
Parts are still available, but they are expensive (nearly $10,000 for One Side) and we must try not to break them!
That's where this Connector comes in.
The original Bullet Terminal is left in place and a very short Connection Connector is made, and the 110-type Connector is used for connection and disconnection.
This way, the valuable Blinker body is not destroyed because it does not require monstrous strength to pull it out.
In this case, it is a non-polarized part, so it is fine, but this Connector is not reversible, so it is also ideal for parts that require polarity.
You can make a lot of progress just by stopping Bullet Terminal and using this Connector!
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For replacement of terminals blowing GreenBlue
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
This 110-type terminal is often used in recent BlinkerConnector and other products, and is quite compact.
Easier and more reliable than the old-fashioned Bullet Type Terminal, the Universal 110 Connector allows one-touch connection and disconnection of various pole numbers.
DUCATI in the 90's used it in the ignition system because part of the electrical system is JAPAN, and I bought it for reproduction of that terminal.
Since it is only an ignition system, we do not need 30 sets, but we are planning to make other connectors (Neutral switch, Hydraulic Sensor, etc.) compact and conecto.......
Even though it is called an ignition system, it is not suitable for parts where large current flows in the ignition spark, but for CDI, Modules, and other weak currents.
In this case, it was used in the ModuleConnector section.
Performance is normal, nothing special to say.
I recommend that you buy in bulk because it is not a Large price and you will not be in trouble if you buy in bulk.
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As terminal for 4.0sq cord for Earth
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The harnesses are also in bad shape, so we cut and re-created the damaged parts of each section.
The very thick wire for the Starter motor and the carburetorTire wire connecting the Engine and Chassis are also deteriorating over time and are crumbling and falling apart.
The internal core wire was also corroded by moisture that had entered the wire and was spewing GreenBlue, so it was re-created.
Purchased as a terminal for the part of the M6 Bolt fixing out of such a cord reproduction.
This is a Large type terminal used in areas that require Large current, such as the Starter Relay and Battery terminals.
The terminals are generally compatible with cords up to 2.0 sq.
However, I used it in an area that requires more LARGE current, so I double-connected the cord and used it.
Naturally, the Crimp cannot be used with the Crimp on the terminals, so only a portion of the Wiring is Crimped and the rest is fixed with a Solder.
The terminals are clean in terms of plating, the thickness is normal, and there are no odd bali, etc., so they are quite normal.
This is a good thing, because cheap Chinese-made products are sometimes very cheap in this area.
These terminals are essential for harness repair, but if you buy them at a specialty site where the unit price is lower, the quantity may be at least 100 pieces.
This product is Quantity:The perfect number of 1 set of 3pcs. means that there is no wasteful excess.
Considering the hassle of using multiple mail-order sites that sell them more cheaply, I think it is most cost-effective for normal people to buy DAYTONA products from Webike, even if they are a little more expensive.
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very good
This is a part that can be easily installed. It also shows high satisfaction compared to the price of the parts and the difficulty of the installation work. The painting and quality of the product are perfect.About quality and texture About the feeling of use Products to buy together Difficulty of installation Cost performance and comparison with other products About shipping and packaging Any concerns, cautions, or advice when purchasing View detail
Fits: Others
For phone charging +α.
[How is it used?
For securing power supply for smartphones and Cameraetc., which are now necessities.
I purchased the 2-port Type this time because I had previously installed 1 port of the same Type in another car model and found it very convenient.
The Grip heater was installed in the previous car model with a separate system, so we only needed to secure the power supply for the smartphone, but for this car model, we wanted to install a Grip heater of the wrap-around type that can be easily detached with a USB power supply, so we chose the 2-port I chose the 2-port type for the Grip heater and smartphone charging.
Was the one you received as per Image?
It is a Type that attaches to a Handlebar and is a Simple & RefreshingDesign that is compatible with both 22.2mmSize Handlebars and 25.4mmSize Handlebars, and is just like Image.
Was the installation difficult?
It is not too difficult because the Instruction Manual describes how to take out the power supply in several Patterns.
If you are not good with electrical systems, it is better to request a trusted friend or Shop.
How was your experience with it?
It is also able to charge my phone, and it functions properly when I charge the battery of my ActionCamera or use the electric pump (for Tire's Inflator) on the go, so the Large change is very useful.
[Included Parts:were they on?
It includes USB power supplyBodyBody, two RubberSpacer, Extension Harness, Branch Harness, Connector for wiring, and two Tie Bands, so it can be installed with only this product if you have a Large Mortgage Motorcycle. This product alone should be sufficient for installation on most large motorcycles.
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
None so far, how durable is the Rubber cap? I am curious.
0Other items that may be useful include
Point and hang of installation
Since it is a universal product, the waterproof cover (rubber lid) may not be able to be installed in the desired position depending on the treatment of excess wiring or the conditions around the handlebar depending on the type of car.
Let's devise and modify it well and install it in an easy-to-use position.
[Availability and clarity of the Instruction Manual
A simple but thorough Instruction Manual is included in the package. If you cannot understand it, do not hesitate to ask a friend who is good at electrics or a shop.
[Notes]
As mentioned above, do not force yourself to work on something you do not understand, or you may cause an unexpected trouble with the electrical system.
[ITEMS TO BUY TOGETHER
Not particularly
[Opinions and requests to Manufacturer
I am concerned about the durability of the rubber cap for waterproof. I think it would be even better if you could devise another way or sell the rubber cap as repair parts.
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Fits: SUZUKI GSX1100SY
It was diverted to Type 3 KATANA.
Since there is no OEM/external cable for the 3-type KATANA, this product for Final with the same shape at both ends of the cable was diverted.
The Cable length is slightly shorter, but so far it has been working fine and has been very helpful.
Since the internal wire can be pulled out from the Cable end on the Wheel side, it must be properly greased up before installation.
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Tail lamp connection, etc.
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body is in shambles, but the terminals are fine! No wonder, the terminals are also in shambles.
It was energized at one point, but when we looked inside the Connector, it was spewing GreenBlue, so we rebuilt all the damaged terminals.
This terminal was used in the TailLight unit.
The OEM terminal was black and rusty from moisture in the air and was about to lose power at any moment, so we had to re-create it.
Cover on terminals OEM translucent Material:It was Plastic and we are reusing it.
(The common transparent Vinyl cover is too sticky and has bad parenthesis.)
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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Quantity when creating Harness:Pair (for Left and Right) for sharing
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
In such a situation, it was often impossible to keep up with Black and Red alone, and it became necessary to purchase GreenWiring, which often appears as a signal wire or sub-Wiring.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 2 m is a fair length, as it is not necessary to have a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
0.75sq is the same thickness as a typical thick Wiring.
The most commonly used is 0.5sq, but this thickness is OK because there is no problem for thicker.
There is also a modest Merit that Bullet Type Terminal is easy to Crimp because it is thicker and solder work is easy to do.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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For Earth
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
Under such circumstances, we decided to purchase this as a replacement for the Large current part of the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, especially the Ground Cable that connects the Engine and the Frame.
OEM is this Size, but Earth is done directly on the contact surface between Frame and Engine other than this code, so it is like a bonus or a spare.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 1 m is a fair length, as we do not need a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
2.0sq is a very thick Wiring, which is the limit thickness for a Crimp such as Bullet Type Terminal.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness for Large current
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
In such a situation, we decided to purchase this as a replacement for the Large current part of the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, especially for the wiring of the part going to Headlight, etc.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 1 m is a fair length, as we do not need a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
2.0sq is a very thick Wiring, which is the limit thickness for a Crimp such as Bullet Type Terminal.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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Quantity when creating Harness:Pair (for Left and Right) for sharing
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
In such a situation, it was often impossible to keep up with Black and Red alone, and it became necessary to purchase GreenWiring, which often appears as a signal wire or sub-Wiring.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 2 m is a fair length, as it is not necessary to have a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
0.75sq is the same thickness as a typical thick Wiring.
The most commonly used is 0.5sq, but this thickness is OK because there is no problem for thicker.
There is also a modest Merit that Bullet Type Terminal is easy to Crimp because it is thicker and solder work is easy to do.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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OEM-like.
It was easy to attach without any processing required.
It looks and feels like it could be in an OEM.
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I like that you can choose the number of Cigar sockets and USB in the Series.
A long time ago, the power source for additional electrical appliances for cars and motorcycles was mainly a cigar socket,
Recently I have been using more and more USBs, so I bought this product which allows me to do Wiring at once and use both at the same time.
For products that have been used for a long time or for products that require a constant power supply (e.g., a digital camera), we use a cigar socket. Cigar sockets that are left attached are reinforced with Vinyl Tape to prevent them from falling out.
(*When I installed it, I was in a daze and wired the + and − of the battery as per the instruction manual, and made the rudimentary mistake of turning up the battery while the power to the camera was still on. Please be careful.)
Each Wiring Cord is made long, so it is convenient to distribute the installation location. On the other hand, it is necessary to hide the excess cord when it is left over.
In the case of this product, there are a total of three connectors, but of course the total power consumption must be taken into consideration, so care should be taken not to use unnecessarily high power products. For this reason, if possible, it may be a good idea to always have a spare Fuse (MINIGlassTube Fuse 5A) on hand for touring. I wrote this as a reminder to myself.
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Fits: HONDA CROSS CUB50, HONDA CROSSCUB110, HONDA CROSS CUB, HONDA SUPER CUB 50PRO, HONDA SUPER CUB110PRO
USB power supply for Motorcycle
I bought it because I have a Smartphone Holder and wanted a USB power supply as well.
22Φ mounted on a Handlebar.
With Waterproof Cap.
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![HornGuard [B Type]](https://img.webike-cdn.net/catalogue/images/116523/01201727_63ca508c37230_TS.jpg)
Fits: HONDA CROSSCUB50, HONDA CROSSCUB110, HONDA CT125, HONDA DAX125, HONDA GROM, HONDA CB250R, KAWASAKI Z650RS, HONDA CB125R, HONDA CB125R
Fashionable HornGuard
Attach the HornBody by co-tightening it with the Bolt that holds it in place.
Guard's Logo can be adjusted to any desired angle.
The other item in the photo is ZEAT Headlight guard ZE52-4100.
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Fits: HONDA CROSS CUB50, HONDA CROSS CUB, HONDA CROSSCUB110
Tachometer for Motorcycle
The OEM CROSS CUB 50cc does not have a Tachometer, which I discovered in my search.
The CROSS CUB50cc is a 4Cycle, so it was displayed correctly without any setting changes, although it can be made to display correctly in 2CycleEngine and other engines by changing the settings.
There are other types of Tachometer made by Mukawa, but this product is simple enough to display the Rev limit in addition to the RPM.
The Rev limit can be changed by operating the button on the reverse side. The OEM Rev limit for the 50cc CROSS CUB is 9000 rpm, so I set it at 8500 rpm to be on the safe side.
The Yellow Lamp lights up before the set 500 rpm and the Red Lamp lights up at the set rpm.
The Instruction Manual also states that if this product is installed, the display may come off if a Fog Lamp or Ignition coil from another company is installed.
Other items in the photo are KIJIMAHandlebar Mount Bracket, NeoFACTORY 48mm Voltage Meter White Panel Stainless, Eye PRO ShiftIndicatorAPH8 Red
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Beautiful!
I'm glad I replaced it because it's bright and clean.
Visibility from vehicles behind is also good.
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