Reviews
Fits: YAMAHA XS400SP, YAMAHA XS1100, YAMAHA SR500, YAMAHA SR400, YAMAHA GX750SP, MOTOGUZZI 1000LE MANS, MOTOGUZZI 850LE MANS, MOTOGUZZI 1000SPII, BMW R80RT, BMW R80ST, BMW R80, BMW R80GS, BMW R7, BMW R65S, BMW R45, BMW R65G, BMW R100RT, BMW R100R, BMW R100RS, BMW R100GS
Replacement recommended before Carburetor setting in SR (1JR)
I am using it on a 1998 late 1JR Carburetor generation SR.
525 modified (certified modified, he also holds a Large type license) and the carburetor has been converted to FCR Carburetor Body41.
Ignition system is iron CDI + OEMCoil of the previous year for the convenience of using Crank of the previous year of 1JR.
Plugs have been replaced about 6 times in 20,000 km due to the following Setting.
In the case of SR, it is not necessary to replace it frequently because the normal RPM is not high, but 1JR does not progress in self-cleaning in town driving due to the weak spark at low RPM of the ignition system (it seems to be intentionally done so to prevent kettling), and FCR Carburetor Body41 is even more incompatible with it. If the carburetor setting is set even a little too thick, the carburetor will turn completely black after about 1000 km and will not return to normal, as shown in the picture of Plug.
Therefore, when you do a carburetor setting that involves a large change, you basically need to replace the plug.
The peripheral creepage is in the vicinity of the Idling, the insulator is in the low open area, and the center electrode is in the MJ area.
To begin with, SR is a 2Valve big single, for better or worse. Large, crude, old car." The complete warming up of the engine takes about 30 minutes in winter, or about 10 km in distance, so if you try to set the setting by focusing on the feeling of the engine after just a short ride, the engine will tend to run in a thicker direction. So, when I try to set the setting with emphasis on the feeling after a short ride, the setting tends to be in the direction of the dark and is not fixed.
I concluded that it is best to put on a new Plug and watch it burn in the end, since it does not go to a perfect fit using the AF.
So, I am replacing it before Setting, thinking that it would be easier to do after Battery ignition, but 1JR is easy to understand...right? There are times when the price fluctuates slightly, but it is helpful because it remains inexpensive as if it is the superior etc. student of prices.
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Older cars with Cowl, note dimensions.
In the 80's and 90's Racer replicas, the Meter area was designed with a Horizontal Type MASTERCylinder, so there is a high probability that when the Handlebar is turned to the Left, the base of the Brake lever will contact the Meter, causing not only the Front brake to fail, but also the Handlebar Lock to fail, This will not only cause the front brake to be inoperative, but also disable the handlebar lock.
BrakeTouch itself is no different from the Horizontal TypeMASTERCylinder and Large, but the controllability is a little better.
After using it for a while, I may revert to Horizontal Type if it seems to offer few advantages.
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Also effective in reducing microvibration
The Normal handle bar has an integrated Bar End, but we replaced it with a Sansei RACING Handlebar, so we searched and selected a Bar End that would fit it.
Since it is made of steel, it has a certain amount of weight, and this weight has reduced the fine vibrations transmitted to the Handlebar.
Brake lever side guard is Material:Plastic, flexible, and with rounded corners, you won't have to worry about using it on the street.
Plus, if it should break, replacement parts are available at relatively low cost.
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![FASTER-3 RIDEKNIT SHOE [Faster Three RideKnitShoes].](https://img.webike-cdn.net/catalogue/images/112340/2510319_Front_123_TS.jpg)
Protection as good as Short Boots
Was the one you received as per Image?
I liked the very Sporty appearance, which is typical of ALPINESTARS.
[How did you feel about the Fit?
It is an interior that even I, a Japanese person, often Fit.
How was your experience with it?
Even a super sports bike has the protection that makes it seem sufficient for a little touring.
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![STUNT EVO 2 [StuntEvo Two] Gloves](https://img.webike-cdn.net/catalogue/images/117177/STUNTEVO2_camoblk_TS.jpg)
Gloves with high hand freedom and high protection
Was the one you received as per Image?
It looks cool anyway.
[How did you feel about the Fit?
The material itself is thin and has an excellent fit.
How was your experience with it?
It fits very comfortably in the hand and is easy to operate.
[Notes]
The first time I put it on, it hurt a little around my fist, so I recommend actually trying it on.
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It's great that it's not difficult.
I thought Chain exchange could only be done at the Shop.
I nervously worked through the Instruction Manual and YouTube, and it was surprisingly easy.
Next, I have prepared a Chain replacement for GSX1300R HAYABUSA and will lend it to my friend.
If you use it for a few cars, it will be enough to pay for itself.
I'm glad I bought it... ♪
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Reliable Manufacturer
Since the parts around the Brake are vital, we chose a reliable Manufacturer.
The fact that there are many different lengths is also helpful, so that when the distance between the BrakeCaliper and the MASTERCylinder changes from the OEM, such as by changing the handlebar, the user can choose just the right length.
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Fits: KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-4RR, KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-4R SE
I still like Trickster!
The look, sound, and performance are all top notch.
I think it is the best of Full Exhaust System.
The instruction manual for installation is also included, and I had no trouble with the installation. As I thought, a proper product is made with high precision. I think you should refer to YouTube etc. for the sound of driving after installation.
You can feel the Torque from the bottom as well. I am still breaking it in, so I have only cranked it up to about 6,000 rpm, but it still sounds great and makes me want to crank it all the way up. It is not a blast for me, but when I go touring, or when I am at home, I can hear the sound of the Torque. (Early morning on holiday, residential area) Since it starts from
I start Engine after I go out to the front street as if it is eticket manner rather than being careful.
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Axle Slider removal and installation
I had a nail puncture my rear tire and i needed to remove the rear wheel to have it fix. Initially i thought it was difficult to remove the slider but it is just a direct bolt on to the rear axle. There is no pins or special locks on the slider, its just a regular bolt on both ends of the axle slider. I assume its the same process with the front axle slider. overall its an easy fix. View detail
Installation is a challenge, but it looks good!
I found this product because my OEM side scoop had rust floating on the steel and matte black paint, even though I wash it frequently.
VMAX1700 itself is not very easy to maintain, so replacing the Parts around the Frame inevitably involves removing the Seat and DummyTank Cover, which is a kind of ritual that must be gone through.
I had searched the Net for blogs of people who had installed the same products in advance, so I went to a nearby YSP to find double-sided tape and CS wheel stops that I would not be able to reuse when I removed the product.:Pair (for Left and Right) Quantity for Duct cover of:2 Sets of OEM Parts are ordered and purchased.
Work Start on the day when everything is in place!
Seat, which is a ritual, Tank Cover removed and Side cover is Quantity.:Pair (for Left and Right) When removing the third bolt, be careful not to drop the bolt and damage it!
I tried to remove the U-shaped pin with a slotted screwdriver, and then I tried to remove the CS ring stopper with a slotted screwdriver, but it did not come off very well, so I used a backdoor technique and folded the reverse side of the mesh over at the projections through the three rectangular holes. I fixed it straight with Driver and RadioBench and pushed it from the reverse side with Driverretc. and only the net part came off from the front side.
All that remains is to position the product from the front side, peel off the double-sided tape portion, and affix it.
I found this to be by far the most efficient way to reduce the time and hassle of removal, so although it is different from the Manual, I had no particular problem with it.
I think the appearance is to your liking. While the overall silver color differentiates it from NORMAL, the two-tone color with black also tightens up the look, so it is hard to say that OEM parts are not good.
However, the material is Stainless Steel, which is by far the most rust-resistant. I don't think the English letter engraving is necessary.
It is a cosy way to change the look and feel of the product at this price.
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Fits: Others Universal, HONDA CB1300 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB1300 SUPER BOLDOR, HONDA HAWK11, HONDA CB1100EX, HONDA CB1100RS, HONDA REBEL1100, HONDA CBR1000RR-R FIREBLADE, HONDA CB650R, HONDA CB1000R, HONDA VFR800F, HONDA CBR650R, HONDA CB1000 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CBR900RR, HONDA X11, HONDA VFR, HONDA X4, HONDA CBR1000RR, HONDA CBR600F, HONDA VRX
It is a regular replacement.
I have been using it for almost 2 years now and it is starting to get holes in places, so I decided to replace it. I always buy cheap ones, but this time I chose Black. I am glad that it is not noticeable at night. I wonder if the color will change after another 2 years or so due to tanning. I used black once before, but the color of the black one changed considerably due to tanning, so I will see how it goes this time. The cheap ones are good enough to use. I have used Black once before, but the color of the Black one changed a lot after tanning, so we will see how it goes this time. View detail
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Recommendation for those who want Rear under cowl on GSX-8S,8R
Although it is an overseas product, the precision and quality are high, as if it were a manufacturer of for-race parts.
The GSX-8S and 8R have only a thin rubber plate as a partition between the tire and the rear suspension, so if you are concerned about splashing mud on rainy days or dirt on the rear suspension, this is a recommendation.
The shape is also cool, with an accent near the center, and the Matte Black color gives a sense of uniformity, as if it had originally come from the OEM.
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Eliminates string flapping
I bought this bag because when I bought and installed the MOTO FIZZ MP-295 Seat Bag, I had a lot of extra belt and it was inevitable that it would flop around while driving. I thought that the size of the Option product from the Manufacturer was more suitable for my needs.
As a result, I have no regrets and use it comfortably.
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BIGSize！！
I use it to fix sub-computers, voltmeters, oil temperature meters, thermometers… and other electronic devices that I have installed in my car. It is easy to attach and detach, yet it is very strong! View detail
It's hard to take off even though they're on
They do not have side zippers like regular lighting boots, but rather a tubular opening. In my case, I had a hard time taking them off after putting them on. View detail
Circuit support
I bought it to run Circuit with MOTARD.
Gasoline spillage can be prevented in the event of a fall.
The aluminum bubbles are anodized and well designed.
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Handlebar Brace
The length is adjustable, so it can be used even if the position is changed or the Motorcycle is changed. View detail
![Brake Pad - Racing [RC] Compound](https://img.webike-cdn.net/catalogue/webike_images/0000/0000/0276/23955303_1_TS.jpg)
Fits: HONDA VFR800F, HONDA VFR800X, HONDA CBR600RR, HONDA CBR1000RR
Satisfied with cost-effectiveness as For RacingPad
I installed it on Circuit Running's CBR600RR (PC40 2011).
Speaking of brembo's racing pads, Z04, Z03 for endurance, and Z10 recently released are the standard, but they are expensive...
I chose the far cheaper RacingCompound (RC) since it is not used for Solidly's Race.
Before the replacement, it was a replacement from HRC (Honda's RaceParts) N615.
This was not a complaint, but the Quantity:30,000 yen for 1 Set for 1 Vehicle...
The bremboZ03 is a Quantity:40,000 yen for 1 Set for 1 Vehicle....
I was a bit worried about the price of the racing pad, which is less than half of the price of the racing pad, but brembo claims it is "for Race", so I was a bit nervous and had mixed expectations.
bremboRC is a CarbonCeramic system, which means it is not sintered.
Some people think that it has to be Sintered, but in conclusion, there was no problem.
Since the pad brand was changed, the disc surface was peeled with steel wool (Bonnstar) at the time of replacement.
Of course, when we replaced the pad, we also cleaned the Piston and replaced the DOT 5.1 Fluid. We finished it perfectly.
Here are my personal impressions after using it at Sports LandSUGO.
Control is good from the beginning to the back.
The μ at low temperatures is not extremely low, and there is no need to be conscious of heating to raise the temperature.
Even when the temperature rises, there is little change to BrakeTouch, which is a good impression (although it is also a new pad).
Low thermal strain, good strength of back plate
The surface of the disc becomes black due to the effect of heat and the carbon film.
The braking force of △ Full Brake is milder (less potent) than HRC/N615, and it would be easier if it bites a little more.
The amount of Dust powder on the Wheel is small, so it is expected to be more Life than HRC N615.
So I feel a slight difference in efficacy compared to the high price FOR RacePad, but it is a much higher dimension than OEM, and from the Balance of price and Brand reliability, I am glad I bought it.
Since the BrakeCost per pc driven drops to about half the cost, I can add that floating budget to the Tire cost.
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Even an amateur can replace the chain. (However, 27mm Glasses are required.)
Recommended Chain Replacement Tool for DIY.
Chain replacement tools range from those that cost 40,000-50,000 yen to those that cost less than 5,000 yen. To be honest, I was hesitant about the price because I use them very infrequently (maybe not even twice), but I was sure of their quality and the official videos on how to use them. I'd rather buy something for $4,000 and have it fail." I bought it with the feeling of
You can replace it without mistake by following the instructions as shown in the official video.
The point that I had a hard time was that there were no 27mm Glasses, so I used MONKEY as a substitute, which made it difficult to fix the body, which is important, and I could not use force, etc. 27mm Glasses are essential to fix the body securely. I will definitely prepare 27mm glasses next time I use it.
The 19mm turning side can be adequately handled by the Box and Ratchet Handlebar.
It is also good that the OtherParts are sold in bulk. I experienced the pin removal process for the first time, but I feel it is inevitable that I will make a mistake and bend it someday.
If you are going to replace the Chain yourself, I don't think there is an option below this (price), so I think the Cost performance is sufficient.
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Price is high but desire to own is satisfied
If you ignore the price, it's great.
However, the Risk of theft is now clearly higher when you are out and about etc.
5,900 yen for a mere ArmParts
Texture is the best
It also satisfies the desire for ownership.
Anyway, it's expensive.
I'm ordering from Manufacturer, but I don't mind if it's sold separately, so I can get a Screw with anti-theft measures later.
I wish they would release it.
I changed to Screw Tightening with Hexagonal Wrench
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