Reviews
Engine overhaul essentials
[How is it used?
I purchased this for Gasket removal and chamfering of mating surfaces during Engine O/H on a TZr50R.
Oil is the same DAYTONA's exclusive oil.
How was your experience with it?
Scraper alone could not remove all of the gasket that had been stuck for many years, so I used oil stone to clean the gasket thoroughly. I soaked it in 4st Oil at first to soak it up because it absorbs Oil quickly at the beginning of use.
After that, special Oil is applied and polished at the time of use as shown in the video.
How did it compare to other products?
I don't know about otherManufacturers, but I was worried about purchasing the number 600.
However, since Gasket removal was going to be the main focus, I bought the 400.
There was no problem here.
[Points to note]
If you continue polishing, you will run out of Oil and the sound will change, so you will need to add Oil immediately.
Be careful not to damage the object when polishing with a piece of Oil.
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Fits: HONDA CBR125R, HONDA Monkey 125, HONDA hunter turnip, HONDA GROM, HONDA CT125, HONDA APE50 TypeD
Stable.
I have been using Red Pad for about 10 years. Stable and reliable. View detail
It is a little hard, but it will turn to the end.
Many people say they can't make it to the end? But, we are excited to give it a shot! If you hold it down firmly and turn it firmly, it will tighten tightly with a high-precision feel. View detail
Fits: SUZUKI GSX-S1000, SUZUKI GSX-S1000 F, SUZUKI GSX-R1100, SUZUKI GSF1200, SUZUKI GSX-R1100, SUZUKI B-KING, SUZUKI GSX1400, YAMAHA YZF-R25, YAMAHA WR250X, YAMAHA WR250R, YAMAHA XJR400RII, YAMAHA DIVERSION, YAMAHA XJR400R, YAMAHA XJR400R, YAMAHA XJR400S, YAMAHA XJ400ZE, YAMAHA XJR400, YAMAHA XJ400Z, YAMAHA XJ400ZS, YAMAHA XJ400D
Black still seems to be vulnerable.
Used outdoors in full sun for less than 1 year and 2 months after purchase.
What was originally Black has faded and turned gray.
It also tore like a rip, so I had to use curing Tape to plug the hole for now. Is it still susceptible to deterioration by sunlight if it is Black?
I am using two more in parallel, Black and Silver. the Black is about a year old. It has faded a bit but still seems to stand up to the test.
I thought I was using them the same way, but I am wondering how a difference of two months can make such a difference.
Silver is about 5 months old. It is still clean.
I was lucky that the exhaust pipe was not touched.
Since the original price is over $8,000, it would be nice to have a little more durability. However, the Motorcycle Cover is a consumable item. However, Motorcycle Covers are consumable items, so I am not that dissatisfied with them since they cost around 4,000 yen at Sale and I prefer black. But I think I will get the Silver color next time.
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Wife, Large joy
I bought it for my wife, who is in the early 150cm height range, because she had bought an SV650 but was concerned about her footing.
The result is a wife Large joy.
In NORMAL, I was supporting it with the base of one thumb,
When this Link Rod is inserted, the base of both thumbs will be grounded, and one foot will be sticky.
I am 177cm and I already have sticky sticky feet, stickier than my AXIS-Z that I use for commuting.
Write down the installation.
I assume you are familiar with maintenance if you are trying to do it yourself, but I hope this will be helpful to someone else.
First, you need an environment where you can hang Jack or Motorcycle.
Rear stand alone is not acceptable (since the LINK cannot be removed …).
Jacks are unstable, so it is safer to hang them if there is an environment in which they can be hung.
Also, the Exhaust System has to be removed before we can work on it,
If you do not want to use Gasket all over again, please buy a new Gasket.
14181-22D01 1pc.
14771-32E10 3 pcs.
When removing the Exhaust System, remove in the following order:Silencer→ front exhaust pipe→ O2Sensor&rarr attached to the middle exhaust pipe; middle exhaust pipe.
When you put it on, it is in reverse order.
Gasket stuck in the exhaust pipe can be pulled out with a radipen.
Please pull out the chisel with your spirit.
It seems to be the correct way to loosen the O2Sensor after raising the Fuel Tank and removing the Coupler, but I was too lazy to remove it as it was.
It was completed successfully without disconnection, but you are on your own there….
Once the Exhaust System is removed, all that remains is to replace the Link Rod.
If the Bolt of the LINK interferes with the base of the Side Stand and cannot be removed, it can be removed by lifting the Swing Arm upward.
I have not tinkered with the Fork protrusion mentioned by others, as I did not feel any particular discomfort with it as is.
It is my wife's Motorcycle and I will respond when she tells me.
I got a good deal.
If you want to improve your footing, I recommend it.
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Effective for high speed drivingLarge
I used to install something smaller than No Brand's Blast Barrier, but the Blast Barrier is superior in both form and effect. It is especially effective at high speeds. View detail
Fits: KAWASAKI KLX125, KAWASAKI KLX125, KAWASAKI KLX125, KAWASAKI KLX125, KAWASAKI KLX125, KAWASAKI KLX125, KAWASAKI D Tracker 125, KAWASAKI D Tracker 125, KAWASAKI D Tracker 125, KAWASAKI D Tracker 125, KAWASAKI D Tracker 125, KAWASAKI D Tracker 125
Yeah, yeah, yeah, this is better than OEM!
I installed it on a KLX125 and it's been about 6 months and I'm reviewing it.
The reason I bought it is a little different from the others, Ease of removal and installation." It is
We use a KLX125 for both touring and Enduro racing.
So far we have been using KawasakiOEM's Carrier.
OEM is a good OEM, but Race is obligated to remove Carrier.
The OEM was a pain to remove & install, so I re-purchased this one by DAYTONA.
As a result, I am Large satisfied!
You're stuck on the part about needing to cut the Side cover, I'm not going to say anything bad about it, so I RECOMMEND that you buy this one from the start.
Off cars can be scratched!
I initially put an OEM carrier on the side cover because I didn't want to cut the side cover, but when I drove around on a busy forest road, the side cover was scratched up in no time!
When you get out of Race, you get new scratches here and there, and it's more like a medal!
Shaving the side cover is not at all Large compared to the amount of scratches!
As a bonus, DAYTONA's Carrier can carry more cargo than the OEM!
The Carrier is easy to install, easy to remove, and can carry a lot of cargo. If you are not sure between the OEM and this Carrier, we recommend this Carrier without any questions!
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DAYTONAMulti Bar Holder。
This is a quintessential DAYTONA product.
Fitting is outstanding.
Holderetc. on the bar.
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For buttock pain!
First I bought Pants with Cushion for Road motorcycle sold on Amazon before I bought this product.
Not very effective and bought this geLupinz.
As thick as they look, they are a bit uncomfortable after getting off the Motorcycle, but they are effective in preventing buttocks pain.
I think it is more effective than Seat's processing.
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The price forgives everything.
First of all, the design is very pretty.
The sound is noisy and whistles.
The noise level is definitely higher than the original, so I am satisfied.
It's very quiet, but has presence.
Even if you go riding late in the evening, you don't have to worry about your neighbors.
There are some regrets, but the price forgives everything. -------------------------------------------------- -------- First of all, the design is so pretty. The sound is noisy and whistles. The noise level is definitely higher than the original, so I am satisfied. It's very quiet, but has presence. Even if you go riding late in the evening, you don't have to worry about your neighbors. There are some regrets, but the price forgives everything. Powered by Google Translator
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I have an exhaust leak.
The exhaust was leaking and I had to replace it with a new part. I could have used the OEM product, but when I was looking for one, I found the Other Brand Product at a lower price, so I bought the cheaper one. View detail
For replacement of terminals blowing GreenBlue
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
This 110-type terminal is often used in recent BlinkerConnector and other products, and is quite compact.
Easier and more reliable than the old-fashioned Bullet Type Terminal, the Universal 110 Connector allows one-touch connection and disconnection of various pole numbers.
DUCATI in the 90's used it in the ignition system because part of the electrical system is JAPAN, and I bought it for reproduction of that terminal.
Since it is only an ignition system, we do not need 30 sets, but we are planning to make other connectors (Neutral switch, Hydraulic Sensor, etc.) compact and conecto.......
Even though it is called an ignition system, it is not suitable for parts where large current flows in the ignition spark, but for CDI, Modules, and other weak currents.
In this case, it was used in the ModuleConnector section.
Performance is normal, nothing special to say.
I recommend that you buy in bulk because it is not a Large price and you will not be in trouble if you buy in bulk.
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As terminal for 4.0sq cord for Earth
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The harnesses are also in bad shape, so we cut and re-created the damaged parts of each section.
The very thick wire for the Starter motor and the carburetorTire wire connecting the Engine and Chassis are also deteriorating over time and are crumbling and falling apart.
The internal core wire was also corroded by moisture that had entered the wire and was spewing GreenBlue, so it was re-created.
Purchased as a terminal for the part of the M6 Bolt fixing out of such a cord reproduction.
This is a Large type terminal used in areas that require Large current, such as the Starter Relay and Battery terminals.
The terminals are generally compatible with cords up to 2.0 sq.
However, I used it in an area that requires more LARGE current, so I double-connected the cord and used it.
Naturally, the Crimp cannot be used with the Crimp on the terminals, so only a portion of the Wiring is Crimped and the rest is fixed with a Solder.
The terminals are clean in terms of plating, the thickness is normal, and there are no odd bali, etc., so they are quite normal.
This is a good thing, because cheap Chinese-made products are sometimes very cheap in this area.
These terminals are essential for harness repair, but if you buy them at a specialty site where the unit price is lower, the quantity may be at least 100 pieces.
This product is Quantity:The perfect number of 1 set of 3pcs. means that there is no wasteful excess.
Considering the hassle of using multiple mail-order sites that sell them more cheaply, I think it is most cost-effective for normal people to buy DAYTONA products from Webike, even if they are a little more expensive.
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For Earth
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
Under such circumstances, we decided to purchase this as a replacement for the Large current part of the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, especially the Ground Cable that connects the Engine and the Frame.
OEM is this Size, but Earth is done directly on the contact surface between Frame and Engine other than this code, so it is like a bonus or a spare.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 1 m is a fair length, as we do not need a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
2.0sq is a very thick Wiring, which is the limit thickness for a Crimp such as Bullet Type Terminal.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness for Large current
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
In such a situation, we decided to purchase this as a replacement for the Large current part of the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, especially for the wiring of the part going to Headlight, etc.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 1 m is a fair length, as we do not need a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
2.0sq is a very thick Wiring, which is the limit thickness for a Crimp such as Bullet Type Terminal.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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Quantity when creating Harness:Pair (for Left and Right) for sharing
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
In such a situation, it was often impossible to keep up with Black and Red alone, and it became necessary to purchase GreenWiring, which often appears as a signal wire or sub-Wiring.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 2 m is a fair length, as it is not necessary to have a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
0.75sq is the same thickness as a typical thick Wiring.
The most commonly used is 0.5sq, but this thickness is OK because there is no problem for thicker.
There is also a modest Merit that Bullet Type Terminal is easy to Crimp because it is thicker and solder work is easy to do.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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Meter with excellent Cost
I had a hard time deciding between this product and YOSHIMURA's Progress2, but the price difference was the deciding factor. I was not sure about the Progress2, but the price difference was the deciding factor. When I use it as an Oil Temperature Meter, I need an Adapter (sold separately), but when I use it as a water temperature gauge, I can use the Sensor that comes with the product.
In terms of functionality, it would be preferable if the clock and voltage could be displayed at the same time, but other than that, we have no particular complaints.
Visibility is good even during the daytime, considering that it is an LCD meter, and the back light is not colorful, which is good. The button is large and can be operated securely even when wearing winter gloves, so it is considered superior to YOSHIMURA's in this area. After installing, I wiped it with a dry cloth to remove hand stains, and found a small scratch on the body display surface. for Replacement parts are also available at a reasonable price, but if you are concerned about it, it would be better to put a protective film on it while it is still in use.
This time, we procured an Adapter (sold separately) for use as an Oil Temperature Meter. This type of sensor may be damaged by overtorque during installation. I carefully installed the sensor with a little loose Torque control, but no oil leakage was observed.
The body was attached to the Handlebar Brace using Stainless Steel material sold at Home center. (Procurement of U-shaped Bolt and Bent Bracket) I recommend this product because it costs only 5-600 yen to make.
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Φ7 but Scauper thin
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The engine of bimota db2 (DUCATI 900SSE engine installed) was transplanted to 900SS which is being restored, and since I took this opportunity … I also replaced the plug cord.
The old Plug cord was a 30 year old OEM cord and was quite stiff, but there were no problems and the fire burned beautifully the whole time.
However, it is old and the core wire is a single wire (!).
A line nearly 1mm thick is a Quantity:I changed to this code for fear of disconnection since it is only 1 pc.
This one has a double core wire and seems to be resistant to bending.
The surface of the cord is not Silicon, etc., but the old-fashioned Vinyl coating.
The color is simply Black, and since it is a Type Black color without Luster, it looks like an OEM code itself.
It's a loud color and how it looks. I changed it!" It is EXACTLY for those who do not like to
It is not soft like Silicon cord, but hard like OEM cord, so if you are not told, you will not be able to distinguish it from OEM.
The thickness is Φ7, which is a normal size that is common in other companies, but Silicon cord is often Φ8, so it is a bit thinner than it looks.
In addition, it seems to be very slightly thinner than the Φ7 code of other companies (within the error level measured by Caliper, so it is really just a feeling).
I am using AS Uotani's ignition coil, but the hole in the WaterproofRubber cap that covers this Connector is too narrow, so it is difficult to pass the cord through if I use another company's cord.
Of course, this cord doesn't go through smoothly either, but it still seems to be a little easier to pass...
So it would be easy to use for those who are changing to Dayna or Utani.
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Fits: Others
For phone charging +α.
[How is it used?
For securing power supply for smartphones and Cameraetc., which are now necessities.
I purchased the 2-port Type this time because I had previously installed 1 port of the same Type in another car model and found it very convenient.
The Grip heater was installed in the previous car model with a separate system, so we only needed to secure the power supply for the smartphone, but for this car model, we wanted to install a Grip heater of the wrap-around type that can be easily detached with a USB power supply, so we chose the 2-port I chose the 2-port type for the Grip heater and smartphone charging.
Was the one you received as per Image?
It is a Type that attaches to a Handlebar and is a Simple & RefreshingDesign that is compatible with both 22.2mmSize Handlebars and 25.4mmSize Handlebars, and is just like Image.
Was the installation difficult?
It is not too difficult because the Instruction Manual describes how to take out the power supply in several Patterns.
If you are not good with electrical systems, it is better to request a trusted friend or Shop.
How was your experience with it?
It is also able to charge my phone, and it functions properly when I charge the battery of my ActionCamera or use the electric pump (for Tire's Inflator) on the go, so the Large change is very useful.
[Included Parts:were they on?
It includes USB power supplyBodyBody, two RubberSpacer, Extension Harness, Branch Harness, Connector for wiring, and two Tie Bands, so it can be installed with only this product if you have a Large Mortgage Motorcycle. This product alone should be sufficient for installation on most large motorcycles.
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
None so far, how durable is the Rubber cap? I am curious.
0Other items that may be useful include
Point and hang of installation
Since it is a universal product, the waterproof cover (rubber lid) may not be able to be installed in the desired position depending on the treatment of excess wiring or the conditions around the handlebar depending on the type of car.
Let's devise and modify it well and install it in an easy-to-use position.
[Availability and clarity of the Instruction Manual
A simple but thorough Instruction Manual is included in the package. If you cannot understand it, do not hesitate to ask a friend who is good at electrics or a shop.
[Notes]
As mentioned above, do not force yourself to work on something you do not understand, or you may cause an unexpected trouble with the electrical system.
[ITEMS TO BUY TOGETHER
Not particularly
[Opinions and requests to Manufacturer
I am concerned about the durability of the rubber cap for waterproof. I think it would be even better if you could devise another way or sell the rubber cap as repair parts.
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Tail lamp connection, etc.
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body is in shambles, but the terminals are fine! No wonder, the terminals are also in shambles.
It was energized at one point, but when we looked inside the Connector, it was spewing GreenBlue, so we rebuilt all the damaged terminals.
This terminal was used in the TailLight unit.
The OEM terminal was black and rusty from moisture in the air and was about to lose power at any moment, so we had to re-create it.
Cover on terminals OEM translucent Material:It was Plastic and we are reusing it.
(The common transparent Vinyl cover is too sticky and has bad parenthesis.)
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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