Reviews
As expected of a ready-made product
I thought I could make it myself, but this time I bought it. It was a bit expensive. I'm glad I bought it because it turned out just like the image. View detail
alignment
I tried to install NPRO Ject's Twin muffler on my WR250X, but the Clutch Side interfered with the ZeroGee Tail cowl, so I chose this one to keep it off the outside.
It is better mentally than piling on the appropriate Washer or Bolt.
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Fits: DUCATI 899Panigale, DUCATI MONSTER 1200S, DUCATI Multistrada 1200, DUCATI Multistrada 1260, DUCATI Panigale (except 959), DUCATI PANIGALE V4, DUCATI PANIGALE V4 S, DUCATI STREETFIGHTER V4, DUCATI STREETFIGHTER V4 S
For ZX-14R 320Large diameter
If not Titanium, Stainless is sufficient, but it is not sold.
It would not be commercially viable to make the price low at Stainless.
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Good texture and usability
The Front Fender of CRF250RLY50 is very low front, so when I run Course and other aggressive driving, the front tire and the Front Fender contact each other at the Full Bottom. I use this 5mm Spacer on the rear two of the four Fender fixing points to change the angle.
It's very good.
The strength and precision are perfect.
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High quality and value for money
I used this to adjust the angle of Windshield of CRF250RALLY50. I put a 25mm Spacer on it and it looks good. If it is longer than 25mm, it will be a problem to fix the screen, so 25mm is the limit.
The beautiful anodized black color of KITACO's aluminum spacer blends well with the black of the OEM front cowl stay of the CRF250RLY50.
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The main point is that the outer diameter is larger than that of a regular collar.
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The footpeg was made by Menani, but it was too battered, so we used parts from various manufacturers that we managed to put together to form the footpeg.
However, when I installed it, the footpeg mount on the frame side seems to be distorted only on the Right Side, and it slightly goes too far inside the vehicle body.
Left has about 5mm gap between footpeg and Swing Arm, but Right has only about 2mm...
As expected, it was too narrow, so we tried to optimize it by inserting a 3mm-thick Spacer between the footpeg and the Frame.
That is fine, but the contact area with the footpeg was small because the outer diameter of the spacer is a normal size.
I don't know what's wrong with that, but it bothered me, so I exchanged it for a Spacer with a larger outer diameter!
That is the product here.
The difference is slight.
However, those who laugh at it as slight are not qualified to talk about Tuning...so I feel good!
In fact, if you replace the Spacer only on the One Side, you will feel more like you are EXACTLY doing it.
I don't see anyone doing that.
The increased contact area should have increased the rigidity of the installation, but nothing can be felt.
Well, it's OK because it's self-satisfying.
The performance of Spacer itself is perfect.
Some hard Material (maybe in the 6000's based on machinability and Anodized's coloring? Mystery) and smooth surface.
0.It would be very nice to be able to purchase 1pc. units of Spacer for use on car bodies, unless there is a need for accuracy in 1mm increments!
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Good thickness that you can understand only when you put it on.
CUB90 with external Swing Arm.
I am adjusting the Rear to get the Line. Similarly, the Torque rod of the Rear brake also needs adjustment, so I purchased an aluminum spacer from KITACO.
Both length and thickness are as described. The chamfering is also well done, and the circumference of the aluminum cut-out is well made and beautifully finished. I like to look at something that is clean and good quality. This is just my feeling, but since it is used for the torque rod of the rear brake, I think this level of quality is fine. This time, due to the size, the quantity is limited.:2pc. Set purchased and connected to use.
I had to modify it a bit because the Spacer makes slight contact with the welded Sauce. We first measured and chose a spacer that could be installed, but it was not the right thickness. The measurement is a very small error, but it is a very large job.
It would be nice if all the parts could be diverted from Honda's OEM products, but it is difficult when other brand products are involved as in this case. KITACO offers many kinds of spacers, so it is very helpful. The size indication is written in Illustration on the back of the package. The Scale is also printed on the back of the package so that you can measure the parts you have. This is a very nice feature.
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Fits: YAMAHA CYGNUS X, YAMAHA CYGNUS X, YAMAHA CYGNUS X, YAMAHA CYGNUS X, YAMAHA CYGNUS Gryphus, YAMAHA CYGNUS X, YAMAHA FORCE, YAMAHA BW'S125, YAMAHA BW'S X, YAMAHA BW'S 125, YAMAHA BW'S R, YAMAHA MAJESTYS, YAMAHA MAJESTYS, YAMAHA SMAX, YAMAHA SMAX
The color was what I wanted.
There are four in total, but the bolt behind the Right Side did not fit, so I had to file down the body and managed to install it. I think it is an individual difference, but this is acceptable. I am glad that it was only this much because it is a visual effect part and if it needs to be modified so much that it changes from the original model, it would be meaningless to replace it. View detail
In Repair.
Installation was easy and problem free! View detail
Fantastic...
These small spacers are fantastic! The finish on the anodising and precision of the maching is perfect and they come in these wonderful little packages that are a joy to look at. They were great value too, compared to other options I looked at. Would highly recommend these if you are looking for spacers. View detail
You're hurting me, so be gentle.
External Swing Arm is installed on CUB90.
Quantity to produce Center of Rear:Pair (for Left and Right) is being adjusted in color. At first, I used Honda's OEM product for adjustment. After I started to touch and feel the need for more adjustment, I purchased Posh's Universal Collar. This time, I used 1mm for fine tuning.
The color we received has a beautiful Aluminum Cut-out finish. The length, thickness, and beveling are Large sturdy. I don't know about the distribution of materials, but it looks good. It is nice to see something good. This time, we have a quantity of different sizes.:2pc. Set was purchased and used. I also modified the collar for installation. I did not find any particular problem after the modification. I have no problem with this.
As a precaution, if you accidentally drop it during installation, Material:Aluminum is more susceptible to scratches than steel, and when inserting the wheel into the swing arm, the collar rubs against the arm and scratches it. Aluminum collars require more careful work than steel collars.
Posh offers a variety of colors, and the O.D., I.D., and thickness are all very neat. I have no problem using them as wheel collars for CUBs. aluminum is lighter than steel.
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Flashing installation
Purchased as a Spacer because the Blinker turns up
It might have been a safe win, but it turned out to be in front.
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Ideal for small adjustments
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The frame was not bent, but it had a history of falls. After restoring and reassembling the frame, it was discovered that the Right Footpeg Holder was slightly inside the body of the vehicle.
The Frame had already been painted, so it was impossible to correct it now.
It is not an easy place to turn in the first place, and the correction is extremely difficult because the turn is really very slight.
I thought about installing an unnecessary footpeg and forcibly bending it back by sticking an iron pipe into it, but the footpeg holder part is integrated with the seat rail, and that seat rail is integrated with the main frame.
When I corrected the footpeg bend, it seemed that the bend would appear in an extra part (probably the seat rail section), so I decided to swing the footpeg plate outward with a collar in between, which is a bad idea.
The color used this time is a mere 2mm, so there is zero discomfort associated with wearing it.
It doesn't bother me at all
And the gap between the Swing Arm and the Swing Arm is now about 3mm in areas where the gap was almost Zero.
I wondered whether I should choose the slightly more expensive Black Anodized Aluminum color, but it was a Large decision to go with the Silver color (no Anodized) since the location is relatively visible while parked.
We succeeded in Offsetting by 2mm with almost no noticeable difference.
The color material also seems to be a hard material, not just raw aluminum, and there is no sign of deformation even when sandwiched between the M8 Bolt's Large Torque.
This should eliminate the need to buy expensive parallel Washers in most places.
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To prevent deformation of the Footpeg Holder fixation area
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
There was a history of a fall by a previous owner, and although the frame was not bent, the footpeg holder was slightly bent and tilted inward, and when the right footpeg was attached, there was only 2mmm clearance with the swing arm....
Leftfootpeg has a Clearance of about 5mm, so I purchased this collar to be inserted between the Footpeg Holder and Frame to ensure this Clearance.
Separate Quantities:Pair (for Left and Right) The gap does not have to be aligned at 2mm, but 2mm is indeed too narrow....
There are cheaper aluminum collars, but those cheap ones are made of the same soft raw aluminum material, not parallel or anodized....
The base of the Footpeg Holder is a part that is subject to large forces, and it is a part that can be seen to the fullest extent.
Material is not specified, but looking at the coloration of Anodized, I wonder if it is in the 6000 range?
It feels like a round bar of extruded material that has been machined.
Perhaps we did not dare mention the Material name because we could not use a good sounding name such as Duralumin or Super Duralumin.
But if it's in the 6000s, it's rather wishful thinking.
Exactly for use in external visible positions due to its high corrosion resistance.
Of course, unlike cheap products, they are very hard and will not deform or crack even when tightened with an M8 bolt.
Small items such as these tend to focus only on cost performance, but it is only natural that good items are expensive.
If you procure colors from Home center for cosmetic reasons, they are bound to be white, powdery, and shabby in a year's time.
For those who think that the most important thing is not the price in the immediate future, but the ability to remain solid for several years to come, the Quantity is a small fraction of the price of the original product.:2pc. This product, which is available from Set, is convenient and geeky.
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Fits: HONDA MONKEY, HONDA GORILLA, HONDA MONKEY BAJA, HONDA MONKEY R, HONDA MONKEY RT, HONDA APE 50, HONDA XR50 MOTARD, HONDA XR100MOTARD, HONDA NSF100, HONDA XR100 Motard, HONDA NSF100, HONDA XR50 Motard, HONDA Ape 50, HONDA Monkey R, HONDA Monkey RT, HONDA Monkey BAJA, HONDA gorilla (Gorilla spp., esp. western gorilla, Gorilla gorilla), HONDA monkey, HONDA XR100 Motard, HONDA NSF100
Purchased at Custom.
It was fine, but good. View detail
Required Parts for Change Accent
These are the Parts required for the installation of the Change Accent, but we would like them to be included with the Body.
Change Accent, installed on sr400Final edition. I was not particularly dissatisfied without Assist, but after installation, "Snap" and Shift is entered, and it feels good. Especially, when waiting for a traffic light and putting in Neutral, Stress is also reduced.
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Used for Side bagBracket
Used to make my own side bag mounting bracket.
It is thick and solid in terms of strength.
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Shim for M10Bolt is ideal for Caliper
This is a 0.5mm thick iron shim.
0.Since it is only 5mm, it is difficult to use it as a Washer unless it is a very special Bolt (e.g., Shim O.D. and Bolt O.D. under the neck are the same).
So what kind of use is it for?
The reason for this is that the caliper is offset by putting it in the mounting surface of the axial caliper.
Exactly for adjustment to bring Opposite Caliper to Center against Center of disc.
Almost all axial Calipers use the M10Bolt, so it should work for most car models.
There is no need for Opposite Caliper to be in the Center of the disc in the first place (Piston's output is Quantity).:Pair (for Left and Right) In addition, it is unlikely that the gap between the disc braking surface and the inner surface of the caliper will be so large that the disc braking surface contacts the inner surface of the caliper, so it is basically a self-satisfying part.
But... there are vehicles that actually Gap to the verge of contact...
In the case of my car, Yamaha TDM900, for some reason, the Right Side has a 3mm gap at the center, and I have adjusted it by adding 3mm thick extra-thick shims.
The other car, a Ducati 900SL, is a Large sturdy car...or so I thought...but it's not...it's a Quantity!:Pair (for Left and Right) Both are at 1.5mmGap.
I haven't changed anything or cut any part of the OEM in either case.
Limit contact is not made, so there is no problem to use it as it is, but I don't feel good, so I adjusted it with this Shim.
From the outside, though, you can't tell anything.
The Merit that Caliper gets from coming to the Center is besides feeling good. BrakeTouch gets better." There are also.
In theory, BrakeTouch should not change just because Caliper comes to Center, but the change can be felt quite clearly.
ProbablyQuantity:Pair (for Left and Right) I guess the Fee Ring will change for the better by aligning the amount of Caliper piston that is popping out at the
I can only assume so.
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For Pedal adjustment of homemade footpeg
I purchased this as a Material to create a 900SS (900SL) footpeg.
If you want a footpeg that has a bearing on the pedal axis, is coaxial with the footpeg, and does not have an extreme up or back position, the only decent footpeg left is the AELLA 900SS footpeg made by Kasuno, except for those made overseas.
Then why not just buy AELLA? I would say, but AELLA boasts gorgeous cutting and looks too flashy....
We had no choice but to use a footpeg (Position, stiffness, sobriety, all good) that was sold by GARUDA, but unfortunately it was already discontinued.
In addition, the GARUDA-made footpeg has a special eccentric footpeg receiving structure, and the pedal receiving part is made of POM resin material.
Even if the bearing is not a Bearing, there is no problem in operation, but the rigidity of the Bearing type cannot be beaten.
The problem with the Largeest is that the method of connecting the Footpeg is special and requires a Φ17mm eccentric Aluminum Footpeg.
Of course, Footpeg is also out of stock and cannot be repaired in the event of a fall.
Therefore, we decided to use only the holder part of the footpeg (obtained secondhand) and to modify the footpeg to the Φ8mm bolt coupling type commonly used by other companies, so that the pedal can also be mounted coaxially.
Prepare a bush that fits in the Φ17 section effectively, drill an M8 screw hole in the center of the bush, and fix the bolt so that it is tightened together with the footpeg while sandwiching the bearing of the pedal.
...Then, in the pedal section Bearing, the inner race and outer lace end faces are flush with each other, so the pedal locks up.
To prevent this from happening, a Spacer that only contacts the inner race part should be inserted......so this Washer or Shim was selected.
What you need is Bearing's Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) To Quantity:Quantity in 1pc. each:1 Set of 4pcs., so there are 6 extra sheets, but that's OK, you may use them for something else sometime!
Shim thickness can be selected from 0.1mm, 0.3mm, and 0.5mm, but this time 0.3mm was used.
We wanted to reduce the gap as much as possible, so we wanted to use 0.1mm, but we didn't want to have it contact when the entire weight was on it and it was bent, so we used 0.3mm with a little bit of leeway.
If you are aiming for limit, there is a te to adjust by overlapping 0.1mm shims, but I decided not to use multiple shims because they are troublesome when servicing.
But on second thought, 0.1mm might have been better since I don't disassemble footpeg frequently.
0.It is better to overlap 1mm to 0.2mm gap because it should be Cool with gap Limit.
At any rate, 0.3mm is OK because it does not feel too governor!
It is not a part that requires extremely high precision.
I think it would be ideal for something like a playful take on "Lever".
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Fits: TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE T100, TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE T120, TRIUMPH Bonneville Bobber, TRIUMPH Bonneville Bobber
Riding posture becomes easier.
I installed this on a 2018 Bonneville 120, I drove it for 6 months in OEM condition and wanted to do something about the Handlebar position as it was a little low for me. The price is reasonable and easy to install.
The only tool needed is to remove and install the Bolt, so the OEM is loosened with 14mm and the Kit is tightened with 17mm.
The firmness of the product when installed is sufficient. Almost no after-mounted feeling.
The Mirror is now in a higher position, so it is easier to see.
I can't say for sure since I haven't run long distances yet, but I think my upper body will be in a more upright position, which may cause my buttocks to ache faster. Recommendation for those who have difficulty leaning forward. Of course.
As mentioned in the product description, Cable and other devices can be used without modification.
In the case of the T120, the OEMWasher on the Bolt side as described in the instruction manual seems to be replaced by the Bracket pedestal that holds the Cable.
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