Reviews
For vehicle inspection.
[How is it used?
I purchased this product because another LED taillight was indicated to have insufficient area to pass the bb1 inspection.
Was the installation difficult?
For RaceCowl, the addition of a Holder and Bracket was necessary. The installation itself is simply a matter of fastening two bolts to a homemade Holder.
How was your experience with it?
The car passed inspection with no problems. The LEDs from License Plate Light are bright enough for the tail lights and Brake lights.
[Included Parts:were they on?
nothing special
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
nothing special
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Fits: HONDA DAX, HONDA CHALY 50, HONDA MONKEY, HONDA GORILLA, Others , HONDA DAX70, HONDA CHALY 70, HONDA ST90 (ST90)
Commonly usable
Blinker relay of 6VMONKEY was broken, so I replaced it with this one. There is no particular problem, but the unique clinking sound of the blinker is gone, which is Minus. View detail
Fits: KAWASAKI Z900RS, KAWASAKI Z900RS CAFE
Choose a different Type
I was thinking that most of the Blinkers were Round Type and not face White, but then I found this one and bought it.
I found out later that the OEM went to the trouble of using bulbs even though they are LEDs.
So I bought LED Bulb from Mercari and Relay for LED. (OEM was not allowed to do this)
It was something that cost me an extra Gold.
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Stable abalone
The way it glows is very Beauty.
Compared to OEMs, this should definitely be changed.
They just put it on. (Lol)
I would love to have a choice, but currently only in Lens colors.
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![[Optional] Bullet Atto/Rhombus S/Micro S 15mm Extension](https://img.webike-cdn.net/catalogue/images/52549/KM152-872_TS.jpg)
Fits: Others microS, Others RhombusS, Others Bullet Atto
Kellerman OEM Product
Since Kellerman's Blinker is small, I thought it would be better to put it out at least a little bit.
I plan to install another one and take it outside when I add a Bikini cowl or something in the future.
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Fits: YAMAHA YZF-R3, YAMAHA MT03, SUZUKI Zixxer 250 SF, SUZUKI Gixxer 250, SUZUKI Gixxer 150., SUZUKI GSX250R, YAMAHA SEROW250, YAMAHA YZF-R3A, YAMAHA YZF-R3A, YAMAHA YZF-R3, YAMAHA YZF-R25A, YAMAHA YZF-R25A, YAMAHA YZF-R25, YAMAHA YZF-R25, YAMAHA YZF-R25, YAMAHA YZF-R25, YAMAHA XSR900, YAMAHA XSR900, YAMAHA MT-25, YAMAHA MT-25
Ideal for Attachment power supply extraction
Ideal for taking out Attachment power supply
DL1000 V-STROM250SX is designed to be easily inserted into a connector of the same shape by removing the cover under the tandem seat to reveal the connectors.
I think this is a good product because power can be removed without damaging the Wiring.
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![LED Position Bulb LEONID LED T10 EX [Bulb]](https://img.webike-cdn.net/catalogue/images/14427/item_t10ex-1_TS.jpg)
I wonder if it is kind to old Motorcycle Batteries.
I used it on an 88 SR400 Small lamp.
All the lights have been converted to LED. However, the constant lighting of the headlight (Sphere Light) did not seem to be enough to reduce the load on the battery, so we decided to use a small lamp instead of the headlight.
Compared to the LED bulbs we were using before, the light intensity and diffusion have both increased, and the small lamps alone are much more noticeable. On the other hand, the power consumption does not seem to have increased that much, so I think I have achieved my goal.
Oh, however, the SmallLamp socket of this year's SR is G14 (BA9S) Some modification of the Socket side is also required.
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Good quality!
I bought a Motorcycle Blinker from a used MotorcycleParts store…only the Lens part was damaged and I kept thinking that the Body was still usable…but I threw it in my tool box for 5 years…. I bought the same size and design and installed it! It fits EXACTLY! The Blinker is of good quality and durability at a low price! I will recommend this product to all my friends! View detail
Fits: HARLEY-DAVIDSON Sportster, HARLEY-DAVIDSON FXR, HARLEY-DAVIDSON Dyna., HARLEY-DAVIDSON FXSTC
LED Replacement
I wanted to reduce the heat generated by Halogen, so I decided to try LEDs for the time being. View detail
Fits: KAWASAKI MEGURO K3, KAWASAKI W800
This is the invisible Custom
First of all, there are not many aftermarket parts for K3 on the market, and Small raws have also been prosecuted on the Net in various ways, but could not find many.
I am sure that K3Rider who is reading this Review is also having a hard time!
Now to the main issue.
Two round MeterFilms and a protective Seat for the key slot.
Meter is Material:Plastic, so it seems to be effective against fine scratches and UV degradation
After applying the film, it has a more beautiful luster than the plastic surface, and the film is thick enough to be durable.
The key insert Seat protects the print on the Body side from being erased by rubbing with keys, etc., and is thick enough.
Construction
The meter section is a type that can be stretched with the attached gels (separately sold separately). There is a detailed instruction manual on how to install the meter, and oil removal, fine pride removal seal, air and moisture removal spatulas, and cleaner cloths are easily provided for easy installation.
The film is wetted with Gel, so there is time for it to dry, making it easy to correct the position of the film.
There were a few areas that did not drain off the water during the work, but the next day it was cleaned up nicely and in one piece with the Meter.
It's invisible (you can't see whether you put it on or not) Custom, but it's a lot of fun to work on it yourself!
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Fits: SUZUKI GSX1400
It would be appreciated if the Instruction Manual was easier to understand.
I was fed up with the GSX 1400's confusing fuel level and bought it before long touring.
Wiring to remove the Right Side Cover and connect the wires is as shown in the photo. (The picture is hard to understand, but …) The Wiring is thin, so I ran it along the Tie Wrap between the Wiring and the existing Wiring without having to remove the Fuel Tank toward the bottom of the Tank. It took less than 30 minutes even for a clumsy person like me.
I have not been able to input the correction data yet because I did not read the Instruction Manual carefully and used the residual amount method from the full tan.
The residual volume method from full Tan, in my case, had an error of about 2 Liter.
It seems that the original error correction method is to display the amount used, then set the full Tan, and then correct the monitoring system. Please do not make a mistake.
However, I am not sure how long my GSX 1400 can run from the blinking of the fuel Lamp due to fuel depletion, and I think quite a few people are running on their own Data somehow.
If you go to Hokkaido, for example . At night, there are many places where even Large urban areas are not STAND. This will give you a good idea of the distance and approximate amount of remaining fuel to plan your touring.
Although not the cherry of Protec, the other day when their Shift indicator would not return from 6th gear, they immediately took care of the problem.
As I said, the customer service is also very strong, which is very helpful.
The product is a bit expensive, but it is trustworthy.
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Necessary for extending power lines!
This wire is needed for the power line for DAYTONA's Radar to be a direct out instead of USB.
The KITACO power supply extraction unit is placed under the Rear Sets and wires are extended from there to the Front.
Wiring is a hassle, but once it's on, it's perfect!
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Fits: YAMAHA YZF-R3, YAMAHA MT03, SUZUKI Zixxer 250 SF, SUZUKI Gixxer 250, SUZUKI Gixxer 150., SUZUKI GSX250R, YAMAHA SEROW250, YAMAHA YZF-R3A, YAMAHA YZF-R3A, YAMAHA YZF-R3, YAMAHA YZF-R25A, YAMAHA YZF-R25A, YAMAHA YZF-R25, YAMAHA YZF-R25, YAMAHA YZF-R25, YAMAHA YZF-R25, YAMAHA XSR900, YAMAHA XSR900, YAMAHA MT-25, YAMAHA MT-25
Kitako Power Extraction Series!
Is it for SEA BASS/Yamaha?
I purchased this for my VSTROM250SX.
If you look for a lump at the bottom of the Rear Sets, you will find a Connector, which you simply remove and insert this Adapter between the Rear Sets.
It is very easy Exclusive Design!
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Flashing relay
GSX-1000 L3 is installed.
Since Relay is in the Blue circle, it is easier to Rose Seat Cowl as much as possible, and since Relay itself has a protrusion to prevent it from falling out, Space is needed to knead it lightly with Minusetc.
Things are OEM same etc. and not so good or not so good.
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It's best
Installation is so easy.
Just unplug the headlight and connect it to the blue service wire.
It fits perfectly with the Hunter Curve and has a good sense of unity.
The only downside is that it is not waterproof when it rains.
You need to quickly unplug the USB and close the lid.
It would be even more perfect if it was supplemented to make it waterproof even with USB installed.
thank you -------------------------------------------------- -------- Installation is so easy. Just unplug the headlight and connect it to the blue service wire. It fits perfectly with the Hunter Curve and has a good sense of unity. The only downside is that it is not waterproof when it rains. You need to quickly unplug the USB and close the lid. I think it would be even more perfect if it was supplemented to make it waterproof even when USB is installed. thank you Powered by Google Translator
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![[Rough Craft ION] Ultra-Small LED Blinkers](https://img.webike-cdn.net/catalogue/images/105463/09150249_5f5fad1a635dd_TS.jpg)
Light intensity is sufficient for your needs.
I purchased this as a Rear blinker for my HPS300.
The light intensity was sufficient and no Relay replacement etc. was needed.
Use the included Sleeve to tie the wires together. It is not a difficult task, but there is no spare in case of failure, and I have not seen it in Home center, so if you need a spare sleeve, you may want to buy one from Amazon or other places.
It's a personal preference category, but I think Lens is the way to go. [Color] If there is a smoked lens model, I would like to replace it.
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I couldn't get it on right.
I was overconfident in myself, I thought I knew as much as Sunday mechanic, but I watched the video to prepare for the installation …Rear brake not working? I had to redo it several times. I have tried several times, but the Rear brake was not working and I gave up. I will try again after reviewing the same motorcycle riders, word of mouth, installation videos, etc. View detail
As a replacement for OEMBlinker relay
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
In this situation, RearBlinker decided to change to ultra-small type LED's for various reasons.
The front is a Cowl recessed type, but since this is part of the body design, it is used as is, and the light bulbs inside are not converted to LEDs, but are left as they are.
This would be a hassle with bulbs in the Front and LEDs in the Rear, but times have evolved and there is now ICRelay, which supports a variety of wattages and makes everything look good.
The problem is replacing that ICRelay with the original Relay.
For ordinary Japanese cars, it is a 2-pole universal layout, so all you have to do is plug in the Conversion Connector that comes with the Relay, but unfortunately, DUCATI is a 3-pole Relay.
In addition, the connector is fixed to the body of the car, and the Relay is inserted into it, which is the opposite arrangement from that of domestic cars.
(For domestic cars, the RelayBody is mounted on the car body, and the Connector extending from the Harness is inserted into it.)
So we decided to disconnect and discard the UniversalConnector (Female side) from Relay and make our own Conversion Connector that would be Male-Male.
After carefully checking the terminal shape of the OEMRelay, I realized that it is the same as the H4Headlight Connector.
So I bought this Kit to create H4Connector.
Although there are a variety of female connectors that can be used with H4 Valve, there are only a few that can be used to create male connectors that reproduce the shape of the Valve.:Set is appreciated!
Unfortunately, the H4 and OEMRelay terminals had different widths, although the connector shape was correct.
The OEMRelay terminal width is about 6.4mm, and this H4 terminal is about 7.7mm wide, about 1.3mm thicker, so Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) was shaved and prepared 0.6mm at a time.
However, the terminals are generated by folding a flat plate 180° with PRESS, so if both ends of the terminal are shaved, the folded part is lost and becomes RoseRose.
To avoid RoseRose, before shaving both ends, solder is poured inside the terminal to fix the PRESSED board firmly in place, and then both ends are shaved...Relay terminal is completed!
The completed terminal has a different width at the insertion point, but the rest of the terminal remains the normal H4 terminal shape, so it can be used by inserting it into an H4Socket as usual.
Just check the terminal positions of ICRelay and OEMRelay (they were in a position relationship that would not function if you stuck them in as they were) and assemble them.
We were able to connect the Relay receiving Connector on the car body side and the replaced ICRelay Connector while converting well.
The terminals included in the Connector set are gold-plated and magnificent, and their shape and strength are quite normal and perfect.
Male of H4Connector. It should be a rare occurrence, but if you are having trouble with HID or LED wiring, this is the perfect solution.
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As a replacement for OEMBlinker relay
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
In this situation, RearBlinker decided to change to ultra-small type LED's for various reasons.
The front is a Cowl recessed type, but since this is part of the body design, it is used as is, and the light bulbs inside are not converted to LEDs, but are left as they are.
This would be a hassle with bulbs in the Front and LEDs in the Rear, but times have evolved and there is now ICRelay, which supports a variety of wattages and makes everything look good.
The problem is replacing that ICRelay with the original Relay.
For ordinary Japanese cars, it is a 2-pole universal layout, so all you have to do is plug in the Conversion Connector that comes with the Relay, but unfortunately, DUCATI is a 3-pole Relay.
In addition, the connector is fixed to the body of the car, and the Relay is inserted into it, which is the opposite arrangement from that of domestic cars.
(For domestic cars, the RelayBody is mounted on the car body, and the Connector extending from the Harness is inserted into it.)
So we decided to disconnect and discard the UniversalConnector (Female side) from Relay and make our own Conversion Connector that would be Male-Male.
After carefully checking the terminal shape of the OEMRelay, I realized that it is the same as the H4Headlight Connector.
So we purchased a Kit to create H4Connector.
Although the connector shape is correct, the H4 terminal and the OEMRelay terminal have different widths.
The OEMRelay terminal width is about 6.4mm, and this H4 terminal is about 7.7mm wide, about 1.3mm thicker, so Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) and shave 0.6mm each to make it ready.
However, the terminals are generated by folding a flat plate 180° with PRESS, so if both ends of the terminal are shaved, the folded part is lost and becomes RoseRose.
To avoid RoseRose, before shaving both ends, solder is poured inside the terminal to fix the PRESSED board firmly in place, and then both ends are shaved...Relay terminal is completed!
We were able to connect the Relay receiving Connector on the car body side and the replaced ICRelay Connector while converting well.
This time, the terminal included in the H4Connector set was the only one that worked without failure, so it did not come into play, but I purchased it as a spare in case the work failed.
Ordinary zinc-plated terminals (not gold-plated), very ordinary in shape and strength.
It is often used in the Connector for Large current, so it is a good idea to have it as a spare so you do not have to struggle in case of an emergency.
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6V For compatibility with Large type terminals that supply power to MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The car body was stored in a high humidity environment, so it was also battered by corrosion, but the humidity also entered the inside of the Harness and corroded the core wire in the cord, which was also battered.
Cut the damaged part, create a new Harness, and make a new Connector.
In the end, we had to redo the connector as the center of the connector, because moisture would penetrate and corrode from the area where it is crimped by the terminals in the connector.
When redoing a Connector, play it back in the existing Connector whenever possible.
It's a method of removing corroded terminals from a Connector and replacing only the terminals.
However, if the terminals are corroded, conduction resistance is created and heat is generated, which may cause the ConnectorBody to burn or melt.
Pinch especially Large-type Connectors with Large current flow when they are corroded.
So, this Connector, which is the source of the Large that supplies Battery power to 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, was looking a bit iffy, so we replaced it with a new one.
Since it is a standardized product, it is fully interchangeable, and even if it is necessary to replace the harness again for some reason in the future, it can be interchanged without a hitch.
The milk-white Connectors seem to have a tendency to crack over time due to heat and UV rays, but the milk-white OEM Connectors have withstood 30 years without cracking, so I am sure this one will be large and durable.
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