Reviews
It adds to the atmosphere of the Custom car.
Here is an imprementation for a '90 C ZZr1100.
Meter panel is Color for C-type ZZr1100:Unpainted resin is obviously cheaper than the D-type, and when exposed to ultraviolet rays, it becomes white and has a texture that is hard to look at. The resin can be kept clean to some extent with regular use of a resin luster revival agent, but it is a 30+ year old motorcycle to begin with, so … it is not a good idea to use a resin luster revival agent.
I decided early on when I started riding my ZZr to get the Carbon Meter Panel from A-TECH, and I'm glad to see that they produce handmade exterior parts for 30+ year old Motorcycle's. I have no choice but to buy it.
So I placed an order with Webig in February, but the delivery date was mid-August, six months later. Well, we are not in a hurry, so we waited patiently, but half a year is a long time no matter what we think.
The parts we received were beautiful plain weave Carbon, and they were solid. [Color] The installation work was done by myself. The installation work was done by myself. Although the assembly accuracy was not as good as the OEM parts, I did not have to file the screw holes to make them larger. I was happy to see that the installation was completed without any modifications to the screw holes, which I had expected to be done by machining. If I wanted to perfectly match the chili, that would be a different story, but for now, I am satisfied with the results.
I like the carbon inner panel because it gives the car a custom look and feel. It looks very cool. It is very cool.
The only drawback is the delivery date and the small window to access the reserve tank for Coolant. A-TECH's Small window cannot open the Reserve tank lid, so it makes no sense at all. If you just want to inspect it, just shine a light on it. Well, Coolant replenishment is not a work to be done so frequently, and I dare to say that there are some drawbacks.
If you have a C type ZZr1100, it will give you a great atmosphere. Personally, I am glad I bought it.
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Fits: KAWASAKI ZX-10R, HONDA CB1000 SF (Big One), HONDA CBR600F, HONDA CBR600F, HONDA CBR900RRFire blade, HONDA CBR900RRFire blade, HONDA CBR954RRFire blade, HONDA X11, KAWASAKI GPz1100, KAWASAKI ZX-12R, KAWASAKI ZX-6R, KAWASAKI ZX-6RR, SUZUKI GSX1400, Others
Casually Carbon and GOOD!
First of all, I am glad that the price is reasonable!
The reflector is made by k-factory, and the size and appearance are almost the same as the image.
Compared to other companies' carbon parts, the quality of the finished product is standard, but the delivery was on time and carefully packaged.
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Very satisfied
Livré vers la France ---------------------------------------------------------- Delivered to France Powered by Google Translator View detail
Good quality, but fit can be improved.
Item arrived in a well seal packaging. Workman ship for carbon fiber is very good. Double sided tape is provided. The item symmetry was not perfect, and there is a un even gap at the steering yoke. View detail
Nut is not well fixed.
Purchased to remove the flap valve and make it full power.
It took 7 months to deliver the product.
Replacement from Straight machined OEMDuct, weight reduced from OEM approx. 350g to approx. 285g, which is like an error.
With a weight difference of this magnitude, I would like to see the product sold at a lower price in resin instead of Carbon.
I bought an OEMCap (92066-0717) to plug the hole in Solenoid, I wanted it to be plugged from the beginning because I don't think people who replace such parts would leave Solenoid.
The Gasket with the Frame is made of 100-yen Gap Sponge.
Installation is quite tricky. Both Duct and Frame have BALI at the Center, so they are like Seesaw and do not go deep enough.
When the bolt is forcibly attached while pressing down, the nut on the duct side rotates and cannot be tightened or loosened....
The OEM has a star-shaped nut embedded in the outer diameter that does not rotate, but this one has only a lightly crimped round type nut, so it rotates all the time.
In the end, I managed to install the FrameCenter by shaving the contact surface of the FrameCenter. I don't plan to remove it, but I'm not sure if it will come off since I put a screw lock on it.
The intake changed to Large width, so I adjusted the ECU before starting, and the effect was excellent.
The Torque is clearly increased from the start, and city driving is easier.
Motorcycle is a monster to begin with, but the Peak power has become even greater, and it cannot be handled by ordinary people.
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Used to fix FRP Cowl on NSR50
FRP Under CowlQuantity of NSR50:Pair (for Left and Right) I bought this for fixing the lower part.
FRP Under CowlQuantity:Pair (for Left and Right) The lower part of the Cowl is fixed in a different shape than the OEM,
The OEM Cowl Bracket could not be fixed. Therefore, a bracket was made from aluminum plate.
Bolt, although it is not a problem to fix it in Nut, I want to use Quick fastener. And a thought,
While searching, I found A-TECH's products.
I was not able to find a picture of the product, so it may not be what I was expecting, but the price was reasonable,
I purchased the product. When I checked the product upon arrival, I was relieved to see that it was exactly as I had imagined.
Combined with Spring & Rivet, which I purchased at the same time, the result is exactly as I imagined.
I will buy again next time I have the opportunity.
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A-Tech tank protector
The carbon fiber protector is very acxurate in its shape. It compliments the fuel tank very nicely. A nice clearcoat protects it further and make it shine. View detail
Parenthesis so good!
I haven't installed it yet because my car is still in the process of restoring it, but I'm sure it will improve the Parenthesis. View detail
Concerned about strength of some parts
FRP was selected because the parts are not so heavy even in resin, and weighed about 600g.
I thought it would not need much strength, but when I held it horizontally by the edge, it made a squeaking sound, so I think it would be better to use Carbon if you are concerned about it.
The hole where the cowl is tightened with the frame is slightly out of alignment and the shape does not follow the frame.
I used Chinese Link pipe and needed to cut the back end, so I cut it with Grinder for Hobby.
Sandwiching type on the inside so there is no risk of scratching the OEMCowl, and it looks like a racing machine, which is cool.
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Cool！
It was able to be attached to Striker's Full Exhaust System with almost no modification.
Accuracy was good and there was no distortion.
The only thing is that the Bracket on the STAND side interfered with it, so I had to shave it off to make a little escape.
Anyway, it is well designed and cool!
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Fitting Worst
Purchased to prevent Swing Arm and Rear suspension from being sandblasted.
FRP was selected because it is not required to be strong and its weight is not so great, and the weight was about 300g.
The delivery time was too long, it took 4 months to arrive.
Simply remove the OEMFender and slip it on.
The fitting is the worst, the radius is not in line with the swing arm, and the screw hole is gapped by about 1pc.
There is no molding defect etc. and it does not seem to improve even if it is exchanged, and I cannot wait 4 months again, so I used it as it is.
Widen the hole and forcefully push it into place, Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) was no way Tie Wrap fixed.
The Left Side is almost invisible, but the Right Side is quite visible.
I have not driven in rain or dusty places yet, but it seems to be effective as it completely blocks the front of the Swing Arm Tire due to its shape.
It's not obvious, but it looks good, like a motoGP Swing ArmSpoiler.
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Handling of FRP
FRP was selected because Fender does not require strength and it is not a large weight.
Not knowing much about it, I looked up Gel coat and found that it is a primer that fills in fibrous bumps and is recommended to be painted to prevent deterioration.
When we looked at the returned object, the surface was covered with scratches and holes, so we decided to paint it.
First, we filled the holes with Pate and polished it. Normally, we would sand and polish it before painting, but since it is not an exterior cowl and we were going to paint it matte, we decided not to sand it.
Painted with 2-component urethane matte black for durability.
Since it is self-painted, some dust inevitably gets in, and since it is matte, it is removed before it dries completely with an 8000-grit cloth File.
The weight after painting is about 490g compared to about 280g for OEM. FRP is sufficient for this level of weight.
The fitting is almost perfect, but the screw hole is only thick enough for a screw, so the collar used by the OEM will not fit.
Push rivet holes were off by about half a hole, left alone as it looks Large sturdy without it.
The notch near the LINK is smaller than that of the OEM, which may cause scratches upon contact during installation.
We haven't encountered rain yet, but it looks like it will be effective in keeping the mud off and aerodynamic as well.
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A-TECH Dry Carbon Tank Pad
Again, the Tank Pad was made by A-TECH!
Other people's impressions...
The OEM Tank Pad can be installed with the OEM Tank Pad, which is very fitting, although it is said to be floppy.
It doesn't bother me at all, just beautiful!
It was a good decision to buy it and I recommend it!
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To
After purchasing through a dealer, I installed the bracket at the back of the water pump side and the bracket at the exhaust pipe on the right side by myself. The bracket on the back side of the body is 10N on the water pump side and 12N on the clutch cover side, so we tightened the Both Sides by inserting the scissors with a large size Flat Washer. I had to quickly put it on or drain the oil and coolant once. Especially around the catalytic converter and exhaust pipe, it gets hot.
After installation, the exhaust pipe on the right side of the Idling got hot very quickly, so I modified the bracket, washer, collar, etc., and adjusted the position of the pipe.
After that test run, the wind entered during driving and there was no problem with the exhaust pipe on the Right Side, but the Chain on the Left Side interfered with it. I adjusted the position again, shifted the position of the collar, and offset it to the Right Side. The next test run, there was no interference, but the exhaust pipe on the Right side did not have enough clearance, and a stone was caught between it and the Heat Insulating Material, If you smell burning smell when idling, it would be better to check it once.
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A-TECH・Carbon rear fender
[How is it used?
Used for SEA BASS GSX1000 KATANA (19 years old)
Was the one you received as per Image?
Yes
Was the installation difficult?
No
How was your experience with it?
The best texture. This is indeed an A-TECH product.
Material:The Rear area became much more Race ish by replacing the Plastic Normal fender.
[Included Parts:were they on?
No
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
No
Other items that would be helpful
nothing special
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Machining and installation
Except for ATEC and OEMRear Fender, there is some modification for installation.
Required:Handlebarter in Straight andQuantity in File:The set was cut and installed in conjunction with TSR's Rear Fender. The effect is to shut out the large stepping stones.
It also came with a MotoGPMachine.
This product is to be mounted downward on the Swing Arm.
This is a downward facing Rear Fender.
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anti-mudrooming measures
[How is it used?
For wet road surfaces. It is said that it is originally for rectification purpose.
Was the one you received as per Image?
There are some roughnesses when viewed up close, but nothing that would cause problems in use.
Was the installation difficult?
If you install it without removing the Silencer on the side, the difficulty level will increase.
How was your experience with it?
Dirt splatter can be prevented to some extent.
[Included Parts:were they on?
Instructions are included.
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
There were some Bolts missing, but when I contacted the Manufacturer, they sent them to me immediately.
The inspection is lax, but the response is good.
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Accuracy is quite poor.
Fitting is good on one side, but the other side is the worst fitted, and no matter how much double-sided tape is used to reinforce it, the surface is not in contact with the car body side, so it peels right off.
The carbon is not flexible enough to be used as a sticking point, and it fell twice while running.
The delivery time was quite long and the delivery schedule was postponed twice, so I can only say that I am disappointed.
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Parenthesis is good.
First of all, I was considering purchasing the OEM because of the cracks in the OEM. However, A-TECH's Bolt is embedded, so I don't think there will be any cracks due to aging deterioration. The OEM shape was ideal, but since it doesn't reach the maximum speed, and since it is installed, I think it is a good idea to use Parenthesis. I think Parenthesis is good. Also, it is lighter than OEM. However, the delivery time is 5 months &Gold price is too expensive. View detail
Precautions for installation
Please keep in mind that not only the A-TECH Fender Eliminator Kit but also most large exterior parts require some modification. Please keep in mind that not only the A-TECH Fender Eliminator Kit, but most large exterior parts require some modification.
Used on Ninja 250R.
The first challenge came with the installation of the BlinkerBush.
The diameter was smaller than the mounting area of the OEMBlinker, so it was difficult to insert the bushing. Grease must be applied. I installed it without grease, but it took a long time.
Then some Gap in Bolt hole.
The bolt included in the kit is smaller in diameter than the OEM bolt, so it can be installed without difficulty.
The third is the attached License Plate Light.
The Bullet Terminal Male was attached, so the OEM License Lamp's Wiring was smashed and installed.
The fourth is the mounting position of the License Plate.
Leutor or Drill is required for this area, so the hole needs to be widened.
Please be aware of the need for these hassles for those who aspire to Carbon.
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