Reviews
Male terminal Cover Only
This is a Male terminal Cover Only product. Male and Female terminals (Female terminal Cover) are required separately.
Since it is not waterproof, we recommend the purchase of a Waterproof Terminal Set if the connection is to be exposed.
Motorcycle and car Waterproof is rarely seen only in Connector, so I don't think it will be a problem, but it is a good idea to buy it according to your needs.
It is better to have it in Large quantity so that it does not roll around somewhere and disappear because it is a Small item.
Contact between terminals and frames may cause damage to electronic equipment or, in the worst case, cause a fire.
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As a replacement for OEMBlinker relay
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
In this situation, RearBlinker decided to change to ultra-small type LED's for various reasons.
The front is a Cowl recessed type, but since this is part of the body design, it is used as is, and the light bulbs inside are not converted to LEDs, but are left as they are.
This would be a hassle with bulbs in the Front and LEDs in the Rear, but times have evolved and there is now ICRelay, which supports a variety of wattages and makes everything look good.
The problem is replacing that ICRelay with the original Relay.
For ordinary Japanese cars, it is a 2-pole universal layout, so all you have to do is plug in the Conversion Connector that comes with the Relay, but unfortunately, DUCATI is a 3-pole Relay.
In addition, the connector is fixed to the body of the car, and the Relay is inserted into it, which is the opposite arrangement from that of domestic cars.
(For domestic cars, the RelayBody is mounted on the car body, and the Connector extending from the Harness is inserted into it.)
So we decided to disconnect and discard the UniversalConnector (Female side) from Relay and make our own Conversion Connector that would be Male-Male.
After carefully checking the terminal shape of the OEMRelay, I realized that it is the same as the H4Headlight Connector.
So I bought this Kit to create H4Connector.
Although there are a variety of female connectors that can be used with H4 Valve, there are only a few that can be used to create male connectors that reproduce the shape of the Valve.:Set is appreciated!
Unfortunately, the H4 and OEMRelay terminals had different widths, although the connector shape was correct.
The OEMRelay terminal width is about 6.4mm, and this H4 terminal is about 7.7mm wide, about 1.3mm thicker, so Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) was shaved and prepared 0.6mm at a time.
However, the terminals are generated by folding a flat plate 180° with PRESS, so if both ends of the terminal are shaved, the folded part is lost and becomes RoseRose.
To avoid RoseRose, before shaving both ends, solder is poured inside the terminal to fix the PRESSED board firmly in place, and then both ends are shaved...Relay terminal is completed!
The completed terminal has a different width at the insertion point, but the rest of the terminal remains the normal H4 terminal shape, so it can be used by inserting it into an H4Socket as usual.
Just check the terminal positions of ICRelay and OEMRelay (they were in a position relationship that would not function if you stuck them in as they were) and assemble them.
We were able to connect the Relay receiving Connector on the car body side and the replaced ICRelay Connector while converting well.
The terminals included in the Connector set are gold-plated and magnificent, and their shape and strength are quite normal and perfect.
Male of H4Connector. It should be a rare occurrence, but if you are having trouble with HID or LED wiring, this is the perfect solution.
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As a replacement for OEMBlinker relay
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
In this situation, RearBlinker decided to change to ultra-small type LED's for various reasons.
The front is a Cowl recessed type, but since this is part of the body design, it is used as is, and the light bulbs inside are not converted to LEDs, but are left as they are.
This would be a hassle with bulbs in the Front and LEDs in the Rear, but times have evolved and there is now ICRelay, which supports a variety of wattages and makes everything look good.
The problem is replacing that ICRelay with the original Relay.
For ordinary Japanese cars, it is a 2-pole universal layout, so all you have to do is plug in the Conversion Connector that comes with the Relay, but unfortunately, DUCATI is a 3-pole Relay.
In addition, the connector is fixed to the body of the car, and the Relay is inserted into it, which is the opposite arrangement from that of domestic cars.
(For domestic cars, the RelayBody is mounted on the car body, and the Connector extending from the Harness is inserted into it.)
So we decided to disconnect and discard the UniversalConnector (Female side) from Relay and make our own Conversion Connector that would be Male-Male.
After carefully checking the terminal shape of the OEMRelay, I realized that it is the same as the H4Headlight Connector.
So we purchased a Kit to create H4Connector.
Although the connector shape is correct, the H4 terminal and the OEMRelay terminal have different widths.
The OEMRelay terminal width is about 6.4mm, and this H4 terminal is about 7.7mm wide, about 1.3mm thicker, so Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) and shave 0.6mm each to make it ready.
However, the terminals are generated by folding a flat plate 180° with PRESS, so if both ends of the terminal are shaved, the folded part is lost and becomes RoseRose.
To avoid RoseRose, before shaving both ends, solder is poured inside the terminal to fix the PRESSED board firmly in place, and then both ends are shaved...Relay terminal is completed!
We were able to connect the Relay receiving Connector on the car body side and the replaced ICRelay Connector while converting well.
This time, the terminal included in the H4Connector set was the only one that worked without failure, so it did not come into play, but I purchased it as a spare in case the work failed.
Ordinary zinc-plated terminals (not gold-plated), very ordinary in shape and strength.
It is often used in the Connector for Large current, so it is a good idea to have it as a spare so you do not have to struggle in case of an emergency.
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6V For compatibility with Large type terminals that supply power to MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The car body was stored in a high humidity environment, so it was also battered by corrosion, but the humidity also entered the inside of the Harness and corroded the core wire in the cord, which was also battered.
Cut the damaged part, create a new Harness, and make a new Connector.
In the end, we had to redo the connector as the center of the connector, because moisture would penetrate and corrode from the area where it is crimped by the terminals in the connector.
When redoing a Connector, play it back in the existing Connector whenever possible.
It's a method of removing corroded terminals from a Connector and replacing only the terminals.
However, if the terminals are corroded, conduction resistance is created and heat is generated, which may cause the ConnectorBody to burn or melt.
Pinch especially Large-type Connectors with Large current flow when they are corroded.
So, this Connector, which is the source of the Large that supplies Battery power to 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, was looking a bit iffy, so we replaced it with a new one.
Since it is a standardized product, it is fully interchangeable, and even if it is necessary to replace the harness again for some reason in the future, it can be interchanged without a hitch.
The milk-white Connectors seem to have a tendency to crack over time due to heat and UV rays, but the milk-white OEM Connectors have withstood 30 years without cracking, so I am sure this one will be large and durable.
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Used to extend BlinkerWiring
Used to extend the Right Side wiring as it was too short when replacing the Rear blinker.
Naturally, we were able to extend it without difficulty.
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Tail lamp connection, etc.
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body is in shambles, but the terminals are fine! No wonder, the terminals are also in shambles.
It was energized at one point, but when we looked inside the Connector, it was spewing GreenBlue, so we rebuilt all the damaged terminals.
This terminal was used in the TailLight unit.
The OEM terminal was black and rusty from moisture in the air and was about to lose power at any moment, so we had to re-create it.
Cover on terminals OEM translucent Material:It was Plastic and we are reusing it.
(The common transparent Vinyl cover is too sticky and has bad parenthesis.)
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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Quantity when creating Harness:Pair (for Left and Right) for sharing
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
In such a situation, it was often impossible to keep up with Black and Red alone, and it became necessary to purchase GreenWiring, which often appears as a signal wire or sub-Wiring.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 2 m is a fair length, as it is not necessary to have a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
0.75sq is the same thickness as a typical thick Wiring.
The most commonly used is 0.5sq, but this thickness is OK because there is no problem for thicker.
There is also a modest Merit that Bullet Type Terminal is easy to Crimp because it is thicker and solder work is easy to do.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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for BlinkerBullet Type Terminal replacement
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
The 900SL (900SS is the same) has a front blinker embedded in the cowl, which is unusual for a sports type motorbike, and is connected to the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness with a Bullet Type Terminal. The front blinker is embedded in the cowl, which is unusual for a sports type motorbike.
However, the Connector uses not only the Bullet Type Terminal, but also an ultra-thin Flat Terminal to connect the BlinkerBody to the Harness.
This is the same as the Flat Terminal of the stop lamp switch used in the front master cylinder, and is an example of a terminal that can break off if handled carelessly.
Bullet Type Terminals can be very difficult to remove when fitted tightly.
When pulling in a narrow cowl, it is easy to pull Wiring as hard as you can with the momentum of the pull out.
If the momentum breaks the ultra-thin terminal that connects to the BlinkerBody, it will be Large strange!
Parts are still available, but they are expensive (nearly $10,000 for One Side) and we must try not to break them!
That's where this Connector comes in.
The original Bullet Terminal is left in place and a very short Connection Connector is made, and the 110-type Connector is used for connection and disconnection.
This way, the valuable Blinker body is not destroyed because it does not require monstrous strength to pull it out.
In this case, it is a non-polarized part, so it is fine, but this Connector is not reversible, so it is also ideal for parts that require polarity.
You can make a lot of progress just by stopping Bullet Terminal and using this Connector!
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For replacement of terminals blowing GreenBlue
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
This 110-type terminal is often used in recent BlinkerConnector and other products, and is quite compact.
Easier and more reliable than the old-fashioned Bullet Type Terminal, the Universal 110 Connector allows one-touch connection and disconnection of various pole numbers.
DUCATI in the 90's used it in the ignition system because part of the electrical system is JAPAN, and I bought it for reproduction of that terminal.
Since it is only an ignition system, we do not need 30 sets, but we are planning to make other connectors (Neutral switch, Hydraulic Sensor, etc.) compact and conecto.......
Even though it is called an ignition system, it is not suitable for parts where large current flows in the ignition spark, but for CDI, Modules, and other weak currents.
In this case, it was used in the ModuleConnector section.
Performance is normal, nothing special to say.
I recommend that you buy in bulk because it is not a Large price and you will not be in trouble if you buy in bulk.
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As terminal for 4.0sq cord for Earth
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The harnesses are also in bad shape, so we cut and re-created the damaged parts of each section.
The very thick wire for the Starter motor and the carburetorTire wire connecting the Engine and Chassis are also deteriorating over time and are crumbling and falling apart.
The internal core wire was also corroded by moisture that had entered the wire and was spewing GreenBlue, so it was re-created.
Purchased as a terminal for the part of the M6 Bolt fixing out of such a cord reproduction.
This is a Large type terminal used in areas that require Large current, such as the Starter Relay and Battery terminals.
The terminals are generally compatible with cords up to 2.0 sq.
However, I used it in an area that requires more LARGE current, so I double-connected the cord and used it.
Naturally, the Crimp cannot be used with the Crimp on the terminals, so only a portion of the Wiring is Crimped and the rest is fixed with a Solder.
The terminals are clean in terms of plating, the thickness is normal, and there are no odd bali, etc., so they are quite normal.
This is a good thing, because cheap Chinese-made products are sometimes very cheap in this area.
These terminals are essential for harness repair, but if you buy them at a specialty site where the unit price is lower, the quantity may be at least 100 pieces.
This product is Quantity:The perfect number of 1 set of 3pcs. means that there is no wasteful excess.
Considering the hassle of using multiple mail-order sites that sell them more cheaply, I think it is most cost-effective for normal people to buy DAYTONA products from Webike, even if they are a little more expensive.
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For Earth
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
Under such circumstances, we decided to purchase this as a replacement for the Large current part of the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, especially the Ground Cable that connects the Engine and the Frame.
OEM is this Size, but Earth is done directly on the contact surface between Frame and Engine other than this code, so it is like a bonus or a spare.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 1 m is a fair length, as we do not need a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
2.0sq is a very thick Wiring, which is the limit thickness for a Crimp such as Bullet Type Terminal.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness for Large current
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
In such a situation, we decided to purchase this as a replacement for the Large current part of the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, especially for the wiring of the part going to Headlight, etc.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 1 m is a fair length, as we do not need a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
2.0sq is a very thick Wiring, which is the limit thickness for a Crimp such as Bullet Type Terminal.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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Quantity when creating Harness:Pair (for Left and Right) for sharing
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
In such a situation, it was often impossible to keep up with Black and Red alone, and it became necessary to purchase GreenWiring, which often appears as a signal wire or sub-Wiring.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 2 m is a fair length, as it is not necessary to have a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
0.75sq is the same thickness as a typical thick Wiring.
The most commonly used is 0.5sq, but this thickness is OK because there is no problem for thicker.
There is also a modest Merit that Bullet Type Terminal is easy to Crimp because it is thicker and solder work is easy to do.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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Fits: HONDA MONKEY, HONDA GORILLA, HONDA MONKEY, HONDA GORILLA
It fits neatly!
[How is it used?
I had been using Z50J OEMWiring for about 10 years,
Harness was replaced in consideration of deterioration.
The Engine starts up better.
Was the one you received as per Image?
It was as confirmed by the description on the ManufacturerHP.
Was the installation difficult?
Wiring diagram is included, but because of full-wave rectification,
The connection was made in conjunction with the Wiring diagram from the previous processing.
Only the Connectors on the Regulator are processed.
Wiring around the Headlight is short because of the 3cm LongFrame, though,
The length is the same etc. as OEM.
How was your experience with it?
Meter and Tail lamps are made by Takekawa,
The connection was ready.
We use an external Alarm, but diverted the Harness kit Wiring,
Quantity since OEM:1 Set of 4pcs. could reduce the wiring in the eye photo.
[Included Parts:were they on?
Wiring diagram and Connector for Charger connection are included.
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Soft, flexible and easy to use!
The material is soft and easy to put in and out of the wiring. It is also resistant to deterioration even when exposed to ultraviolet rays! It is easy to use, durable and Large satisfaction! View detail
Hard but strong!
It has a slit in it and you put the wiring inside, but it's just too hard! It is not flexible, so it is hard to put in and take out the wiring, and it is not easy to handle! However, this is one of its strong points and its durability is outstanding! I mainly use it to put together the ETC and sub-computer wiring inside the motorcycle! It is a recommendation because it is very useful if used in the right place at the right time! View detail
Ideal for Repair
I purchased this product to refresh a MotorcycleParts terminal cover that was given to me by a friend because it was yellowish and deteriorated. I recommend periodic replacement of the cover because many people use the cover for many years without replacing it, causing it to become damaged and short! View detail
The quality is good and can be used without problems!
Active (ACTIVE) I purchased this product for Repair because I damaged the Electro Tap of my company's LEDNumberSIDEBlinker. It works fine and the quality is good! As with all Electro Tap products, it is not waterproof at all, so please use it in a place where it will not be exposed to water! View detail
Particularly good for places where there is a lot of ROSS
Reusable Tie Wrap for easy removal.
It is especially effective for parts that are frequently removed and attached. It is a little thicker than regular tie wrap, so be careful, but I use it to tie parts that are often removed when disassembling.
Off-road motorcycles are especially used for this purpose.
The thicker the wire, the sturdier it is, so there is no need to worry too much. However, if you cut the extra length, you can only use the same length or a shorter portion.
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The ability to release as intended is still an advantage.
Vehicles used in Races and competitions are often cleared.
If Tie Wrap can be Released in such cases, it can be used once more.
This is important.
But it's not cosmetic. Definitely.
But they are SDGs. Because they can be reused.
Even if you are not a "good" person, you don't have to use a nipper to cut it, so you don't have to choose a place for it. It is surprisingly possible even in a gap where tools cannot fit.
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