Reviews
I think the texture is good.
[How is it used?
I replaced it and ran about 150 km.
The shape of Lever is slightly different from NORMAL, but I soon got used to it.
Was the one you received as per Image?
Almost as Image.
Clutch lever is a little cheap in the Plastic part.
Was the installation difficult?
I am a beginner and it was very easy because there was a video of the exchange on Youtube.
I think anyone with 8mm and 10mm Wrench can do it.
How was your experience with it?
It looks good because we matched the color to the Fork and Wheel!
[Included Parts:were they on?
Grease is not included, so if you don't have it, you should buy it.
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
Plastic part of Clutch is cheap.
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Think in terms of replacement frequency, not Power
I don't think there is anyone who can perceive the increase in inhalation efficiency by 0.5ps at Peak with SEROW in the product description.
I'm more of a wash and reuse kind of guy, but it's a lot more work than I thought it would be.
According to the official procedure, wash with Cleaner→ wash with mild detergent→ dry for a day→ apply Oil→ wait 6 hours and when Oil settles, you can drive.
Almost two days if you follow it exactly? If I wash on Saturday morning, I won't make it in time for Touring on Sunday.
If you're the kind of person who changes filters once or twice a year, OEM replacement would be better.
I guess it's for people who want to go as fast as possible in an hour-long Race to change filters in a month, which is often run in Course.
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Silencer gasket
I used it when I installed T2RACING's Silencer on Hulk's Chamber, and although the Silencer itself was confirmed to fit, the three M6 mounting pitches were different and the hole on the Flange side needed to be widened by about 0.5mm.
Gasket also naturally has a different Pitch and requires a wider hole.
Some modification may be necessary when using for chambers other than T2RACING.
It functions fine and has no exhaust leaks.
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It cannot be used for Shinobi Sen Cowl (crying).
It's my fault for not checking carefully, but I bought the upper 6 push rivetsfor replacement of the front under cowl on my 2014NINJA1000, but the inside rivet size was thicker than the OEM Product and did not fit in the holes&hellip I bought this rivet for replacement for the upper 6 push rivetsfor the front under cowl of my 2014 NINJA1000.
For your information, the correct OEM Product number is 92039-0068. to
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Fits: HONDA CB1300SBSP, HONDA CB1300SB, HONDA CB1100RS, HONDA CB1100EX, HONDA CB1100, HONDA CB1300ST, HONDA CB1300 SFSP, HONDA CB1300 SF
After 20,000 km
Purchased due to idling failure after full power. I am looking forward to the next Touring, but have not driven it yet. View detail
For Wiring of Race Vehicles
I purchased Wire to match Race regulation.
Wires also come in different thicknesses, and although thicker wires are fine for the drain bord and filler caps, fine places such as the split pins of Caliper cannot be wound with thicker wires, so we purchased thinner wires.
Since it is long enough to last almost a lifetime, I think it is cosmetically sound because once you buy it, you will be able to use it for quite a long time.
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Tail Bulb replacement for KSR's Fender Eliminator Kit
I purchased a used KSR80, but the previous owner installed a Fender Eliminator Kit, and the tail lamp is a Lucas type.
There was a Trouble with Tail Bulb immediately after purchase.
I removed the Lens to see the model of the Lamp to replace it, but unlike the usual Double Bulb, the head was a Small Rhinoceros Bulb.
This Type was not sold at Home center or Car Shop 。 Maybe MotorcycleParts specialty stores have them, but I can't find any near me. 。
However, because the length of the Tail Bulb was different, it interfered with the Lens, causing the Lens to chip, melt, and consume more power due to its higher wattage.
I had put it off because it was inexpensive but the shipping and other things made it needlessly expensive, but I had some shopping to do at WeBig, so I bought it as a package deal.
After installation, there was no interference (obviously), and since the Watt number was lowered, the power consumption was also lowered, eliminating the concern factor.
I am planning to eventually switch to LEDs, but there is a barrier of full-wave rectification, so I may end up putting it off.
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520Conversion Demerit
It is cheaper than collecting OEM parts, and as you all know, there is a Merit to make the 520. However, the Noise when driving will be Large.
It sounds like the sound when the bottom of the teeth of the front sprocket (Driven Sprocket) hits the Roller of the Chain.
The OEM Sprocket has a Ring-shaped anti-vibration Rubber, which reduces Noise.
As a countermeasure, I had some DAYTONAInsulation Glass WoolSeat left over from a previous purchase at Webig, so I attached this to the inside of the Sprocket Cover.
As an effect, Noise became much smaller.
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Bolt hole in rear sprocket is Large
It is cheap and good, but the only thing that bothers me is that the Bolt hole on the Rear sprocket is Large. I'm worried that it might move during use. View detail
Tightened with a slotted screwdriver.
Used to replace an oil line. It seemed to be able to close it with a hexagon, but it didn't fit slightly. I think it is a millimeter. View detail
Fits: KAWASAKI EPSILON 150 (Epsilon), SUZUKI ADDRESS (Address), SUZUKI ADDRESS 110 (Address), SUZUKI ADDRESS 110 (Address), SUZUKI ADDRESS 110 (Address), SUZUKI ADDRESS 110 (Address), SUZUKI ADDRESS 110 (Address), SUZUKI ADDRESS V100 (Address), SUZUKI ADDRESS V100 (Address), SUZUKI ADDRESS V125, SUZUKI ADDRESS V125, SUZUKI ADDRESS V125, SUZUKI ADDRESS V125, SUZUKI ADDRESS V125 (Address), SUZUKI ADDRESS V125S, SUZUKI ADDRESS V125S, SUZUKI ADDRESS V50 (Address), SUZUKI AVENIS 150 (Avenisu), SUZUKI LetsIIS (LETS Two S), SUZUKI LetsIIS (LETS Two S)
extraordinary
[How is it used?
Town ride
How was your experience with it?
cheap
How did it compare to other products?
cheap
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Fits: HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB400 SUPER FOUR, HONDA CB1300 SUPER BOL D'OR, HONDA CB1300 SUPER BOL D'OR, HONDA CB1300 SUPER BOL D'OR, HONDA CB1300 SUPER BOL D'OR
Easy to use
I think this product is easy to use. The price seems a bit high. View detail
Fits: HONDA CB1300SF, HONDA CB1300SB, HONDA CB1100, HONDA CBR1000RR, HONDA VTR1000SP-1, HONDA VTR1000SP-2
Easy to use
I think this product is easy to use. The price seems a bit high. View detail
Fits: HONDA Rebel300, HONDA CB300R, HONDA CB250F, HONDA DN-01, HONDA REBEL250, HONDA CRF250M, HONDA CRF250 RALLY ABS, HONDA CRF250L, HONDA CBR250R, HONDA CRF250 RALLY, HONDA CB250R
Standard Windshield IRIDIUMSpec. I can't tell the difference from normal Plug.
I bought a used CRF250RALLY50MD44 with 12,000 km on the odometer and replaced all consumable parts.
Iridium plugs were adopted as standard, which was not expected.
I cannot experience that it starts particularly well or is Torque fully.
I have owned almost all 250 Class Trail bikes and Motard bikes, including those of other companies, so I am certain of this.
It's an expensive Plug, so I'm going to run it in with high hopes for durability at least.
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Easy to use
The rear wheels can be used without difficulty, but the front wheels cannot be used. The front wheels are gradually shifting, perhaps because they are stuck in place. View detail
Too Large to use for Scooter
[How is it used?
I bought this for Scooter Oilfor replacement.
When changing oil in the center stand of PCX125, it is difficult because there is no space to place a saucer.
Was the one you received as per Image?
I bought a Large size, but it was larger than I expected.
The texture was very good, and it looked like it would last a long time.
How was your experience with it?
With the Center Stand in place, I was able to change the oil, but the space under the Scooter and the size of the Oil Pan were too large, and it felt cramped and difficult to do so.
I am still glad I bought it, but I think I should have bought the One sizeSmallest one, because it is also very expensive.
[Points to note]
How did it compare to other products?
Other items that would be helpful
Installation points and hang/Items to buy together/ Opinions and requests to the Manufacturer
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Fits: HONDA GROM, HONDA ANF125innova, HONDA WAVE125R, HONDA WAVE125S, HONDA WAVE125i, HONDA MONKEY125
Well, it is normal.
I had not replaced it for maybe 20,000~30,000 km and was running and the Engine warning light came on.
Well, let's replace it! And when I went to start working on it, it was gone. 。。。。
I don't know much about the condition of the Engine, even if it is a new Plug, but it is a consumable item and should probably be replaced on a regular basis.
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They say it's good if it lasts 5 years.
After five years, it broke. When I removed it, the yellow-colored luminous body was shattered and the base was burnt to brown. The light suddenly faded and became like a miniature light bulb and disappeared. I was surprised because I happened to be watching it. It would have been extremely scary if I had been driving at night.
When I bought it, the yellow colored tip was not square and the corners looked peeled off in places. I asked the ManufacturerStaff if the Large tip was sturdy, but they said it was fine, so I had it installed.
Well, it would be impossible because it looks like the LED light-emitting base part is burnt out.
As for the product review, at 6000k.
It is not brighter than OEM, but the color is White, so some scenes actually look darker. It is still not as good as the most powerful HeadlightHID, but it looks better than the OEM Halogen when compared to rural roads and other places without streetlights. 。
However, in urban, city, suburban, and highway areas where there are some lights, the white LEDs are covered by the lights and it is difficult to tell whether the light is illuminating or not.
If the Type is one light on low and two lights on high, I would recommend changing the color temperature with low high.
This time I did the work myself, but when I first bought it, I was told that it would wait 20,000 hours or 10 years if it didn't break, but in fact it was 5 years, so I felt like I lost money, but that seems to be the way it is.
It is good that they are cheaper now because of the New Model, but I wish they would have stopped reducing the warranty to 2 years if they continue to claim that they can be used for a long time.
Now, how to do the work
This time, I performed the work myself, copying the way SphereLight's ManufacturerStaff actually did it on my Motorcycle.
As mentioned in the postscript, the way this Rubber fits (How to put it out?) If this is the case, the heat sink portion will be buried in the rubber, so I am concerned about whether the heat dissipation will be large enough to withstand the heat.
Turn the round cover of the OEM Headlight unit counterclockwise about 1 cm to remove it.
Remove the valve spring and remove the light valve.
Remove the Attachment from the Valve of the product and insert the removed Attachment into the place where the Headlight Bulb was inserted, with the four notches facing backward, and fasten it with the Spring.
At this point, you should install the Valve once in the Attachment and remember the feeling of pushing and turning it to install.
Attach the supplied CouplerConnector to the product as described in B of the Instruction Manual.
Connectors on the body side and the Light side are connected.
...At this point, conduct a lighting test.
The space inside the Headlight unit is quite large when you put your finger inside, so leave about 15cm of Wiring and put all Connectors and Controllers inside the Unit. (I put almost all of them in Space under Unit)
Note that if the wiring connected to the light is about 10 cm, the light valve will stick when the cover is attached and will not be able to be pierced.
If the controller rattles inside the headlight unit, use the Tie Band to hold the controller in place. I don't do it.
Once this is done, it is time to install the rubber cover, which is the most difficult part.
It takes several hours at worst, and although it is easy to install if the Rubber is heated considerably, it is not recommended because deformation is a concern.
The difficulty level increases because everything is put into the Unit.
Push the outer frame of the Rubber cover into the Unit.
At that time, the side that is folded should be toward the rear of the vehicle.
When you push it in, there are three indentations where the OEM's round cover fits.
Make sure three Folds are outside the Unit, then install the LED Bulb.
(Note that if you push the Rubber as hard as you can, only one Fold will come out backward.)
(The outer frame of the rubber cover of the type after the warranty period of 2 years is larger than that of the type before that, so it should be installed in a larger size.)
LED Bulb is perpendicular to the ground when installed.:Pair (for Left and Right) to be facing the
If the remaining wiring seems long, push it in a little at a time.
The above work was completed without making any cuts.
ManufacturerStaff had done this and it was a work procedure that worked fine.
However, if the rubber is pushed out this far, the heat sink will be buried in the rubber, so I wonder if the heat dissipation is Large sturdy. I wonder,
I had done it this way before, so I copied it as it was.
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I don't know if it will fit, but I bought it anyway.
I don't know if it will fit, but I bought it anyway. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA TRACER9 GT, YAMAHA FAZER8, HONDA VTR1000SP-1, HONDA CB400SF, HONDA CB400SB, HONDA CB1100EX, HONDA CB1100EX E Package, HONDA CB1100BLACK STYLE, HONDA CB1100, SUZUKI BANDIT1250, KAWASAKI VULCAN S, SUZUKI BANDIT1250 S, SUZUKI BANDIT1250 F, SUZUKI BANDIT1200, SUZUKI BANDIT1200 S, SUZUKI SV1000 S, SUZUKI V-STROM1000, SUZUKI SV1000, SUZUKI KATANA, SUZUKI GSX-S750
Kagoshima Touring for 1,600 km
Saganoseki→Aso→Takachiho→Cape Sata→Nichinan and Kyushu Touring 1600 km or so, no problem! View detail