Reviews
C17Z9990010ZZ
I'm used to using the emergency light in the car (blinking all the turns) to attract attention, to say "thank you" and so on. I miss this feature on my Honda Little Cub. I purchased this button to eliminate this "injustice". I haven't installed the button yet, but everything is fine in terms of material and workmanship!!! View detail
![[Repair Parts] Lock Set [Z641NM]](https://img.webike-cdn.net/catalogue/11160/66524_image_TS.jpg)
Fits: Others E470, Others E370, Others E340
GIVI is still good
Motorcycle top cases are all the same, right? You may think, "What's the difference between a motorcycle top case and a top case?
However, the difference is that GIVI has a good lineup of repair parts.
I believe Top case does not need a key.
It is troublesome that both GIVI and other Manufacturers have a mechanism that prevents the lock from coming off unless it is locked.
GIVI, in fact, can be unlocked with a little modification,
However, this process will result in a demerit that will make it impossible to lock the door,
In the first place, I think it is strange to put something that is not good to be stolen in Motorcycle's Top case.
When you remove the key, you will see red plastic on the reverse side, so you just need to cut the part that is caught by the key.
At any rate, the Impression this time was that GIVI is a good company with a solid lineup of Repair Parts.
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Service Reminder Reset for New Model GSX1300R HAYABUSA
[How is it used?
Recently, many manufacturers have adopted a system in which the Lamp on the Meter lights up when it is time for maintenance.
Various foreign car manufacturers, especially Ducati, are doing this.
But recently, domestic cars are also becoming like that:you have to drop Gold to the Dealer to get rid of the Lamp. Is this part of the Dealer's business strategy? So, even for a simple oil change, if you don't go to the Dealer to have it done, the maintenance Lamp is still glowing all the time.
is Japanese pampas grass, a simple homemade one is all that is needed to solve the problem.
Was the one you received as per Image?
As per Image
It's better to buy it with other things. Since it's only about $100 anyway, the actual store is a better deal when shipping is included.
How was your experience with it?
Effective.
[Points to note]
You have to insert it deep to get it to work.
How did it compare to other products?
Nothing in particular to compare.
Other items that would be helpful
Installation points and hang/Items to buy together/ Opinions and requests to the Manufacturer
In doing the work, this method is probably a maintenance procedure that is not covered under warranty.
If you want to be stingy with your Gold, please use it only as a reference.
If you are a little worried about the work, you should still buy the OEMReset switch.
OEM reminder Reset switch
09930-83130 Available at Webike, but currently out of stock?
By the way, in most cases, they fail.
It will not respond unless it is inserted firmly and deeply.
Then press and hold the LeftSelectSwitch▼Button to open MENU, select SERVICE, MODESwitch to determine RESET, which is not usually displayed, select Yes when Yes/No appears, and then you can set it individually!
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It is quite convenient to have it in Single Body.
I purchased the Racer to make it a public road Spec.
Quantity of electrical components:I could have bought it as a Set, but I bought this one because I can reconfigure it in various ways.
This will bring together the electrical system for the time being.
The terminal connections are in good condition and are securely fastened with Heat Shrink Tubes, so they appear to be water resistant.
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Fits: HONDA Dio (DIO), HONDA Dio cesta (DIO CHESTA), HONDA Dio SR (DIO), HONDA Dio ZX (DIO), HONDA Dio ZX (DIO)
This is usable!
My father's LIVEDio was stolen and the key hole was destroyed while he was parked on his bike, so I installed this product. It works fine, and he is happy because the old key is now new and easy to turn! View detail
For retrofitting electrical systems
I purchased the Racer to make it a public road Spec.
Quantity of electrical components:I could have bought it as a Set, but I bought this one because I can reconfigure it in various ways.
It was a little bit difficult to wire the unit because it was installed from scratch in a vehicle with no safety components. 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness is connected to the main harness, which switches the supply from the power source on and off.
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Large capacity
[How is it used?
Bullet Type Terminals are required for USB power supply and other wiring processes, but of course Bullet Type Terminals are used up.
Quantity:I bought a set of 30pcs. or something like that, but I found that I had no Bullet Type Terminal on hand and had to stop working on it, so I bought Quantity:1 Set of 100pcs.
How was your experience with it?
It is an ordinary Bullet Type Terminal made by Emon, which can be easily obtained at Home center.
100pcsQuantity:Set is not readily available around there, so I purchased it on Webike.
How did it compare to other products?
No specific comparisons were made.
[Points to note]
Sleeve for waterproof is not included, so you need to prepare it separately if necessary.
【Review】
The Large capacity is recommended for those who do a fair amount of DIY Wiring work.
It is better to store them in a 100x box because they may be lost if left in the bag.
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Convenient to align the retrofit Attachment Power Line with the same color as the OEM
It is convenient to match the color of the OEM ACC power supply with the color of the ACC linked power supply of the retrofit Electric Attachment.
If I simply make it Red, it is Large strange to chase whether it is Badda-nai or not.
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As a replacement for OEMBlinker relay
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
In this situation, RearBlinker decided to change to ultra-small type LED's for various reasons.
The front is a Cowl recessed type, but since this is part of the body design, it is used as is, and the light bulbs inside are not converted to LEDs, but are left as they are.
This would be a hassle with bulbs in the Front and LEDs in the Rear, but times have evolved and there is now ICRelay, which supports a variety of wattages and makes everything look good.
The problem is replacing that ICRelay with the original Relay.
For ordinary Japanese cars, it is a 2-pole universal layout, so all you have to do is plug in the Conversion Connector that comes with the Relay, but unfortunately, DUCATI is a 3-pole Relay.
In addition, the connector is fixed to the body of the car, and the Relay is inserted into it, which is the opposite arrangement from that of domestic cars.
(For domestic cars, the RelayBody is mounted on the car body, and the Connector extending from the Harness is inserted into it.)
So we decided to disconnect and discard the UniversalConnector (Female side) from Relay and make our own Conversion Connector that would be Male-Male.
After carefully checking the terminal shape of the OEMRelay, I realized that it is the same as the H4Headlight Connector.
So I bought this Kit to create H4Connector.
Although there are a variety of female connectors that can be used with H4 Valve, there are only a few that can be used to create male connectors that reproduce the shape of the Valve.:Set is appreciated!
Unfortunately, the H4 and OEMRelay terminals had different widths, although the connector shape was correct.
The OEMRelay terminal width is about 6.4mm, and this H4 terminal is about 7.7mm wide, about 1.3mm thicker, so Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) was shaved and prepared 0.6mm at a time.
However, the terminals are generated by folding a flat plate 180° with PRESS, so if both ends of the terminal are shaved, the folded part is lost and becomes RoseRose.
To avoid RoseRose, before shaving both ends, solder is poured inside the terminal to fix the PRESSED board firmly in place, and then both ends are shaved...Relay terminal is completed!
The completed terminal has a different width at the insertion point, but the rest of the terminal remains the normal H4 terminal shape, so it can be used by inserting it into an H4Socket as usual.
Just check the terminal positions of ICRelay and OEMRelay (they were in a position relationship that would not function if you stuck them in as they were) and assemble them.
We were able to connect the Relay receiving Connector on the car body side and the replaced ICRelay Connector while converting well.
The terminals included in the Connector set are gold-plated and magnificent, and their shape and strength are quite normal and perfect.
Male of H4Connector. It should be a rare occurrence, but if you are having trouble with HID or LED wiring, this is the perfect solution.
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As a replacement for OEMBlinker relay
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
In this situation, RearBlinker decided to change to ultra-small type LED's for various reasons.
The front is a Cowl recessed type, but since this is part of the body design, it is used as is, and the light bulbs inside are not converted to LEDs, but are left as they are.
This would be a hassle with bulbs in the Front and LEDs in the Rear, but times have evolved and there is now ICRelay, which supports a variety of wattages and makes everything look good.
The problem is replacing that ICRelay with the original Relay.
For ordinary Japanese cars, it is a 2-pole universal layout, so all you have to do is plug in the Conversion Connector that comes with the Relay, but unfortunately, DUCATI is a 3-pole Relay.
In addition, the connector is fixed to the body of the car, and the Relay is inserted into it, which is the opposite arrangement from that of domestic cars.
(For domestic cars, the RelayBody is mounted on the car body, and the Connector extending from the Harness is inserted into it.)
So we decided to disconnect and discard the UniversalConnector (Female side) from Relay and make our own Conversion Connector that would be Male-Male.
After carefully checking the terminal shape of the OEMRelay, I realized that it is the same as the H4Headlight Connector.
So we purchased a Kit to create H4Connector.
Although the connector shape is correct, the H4 terminal and the OEMRelay terminal have different widths.
The OEMRelay terminal width is about 6.4mm, and this H4 terminal is about 7.7mm wide, about 1.3mm thicker, so Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) and shave 0.6mm each to make it ready.
However, the terminals are generated by folding a flat plate 180° with PRESS, so if both ends of the terminal are shaved, the folded part is lost and becomes RoseRose.
To avoid RoseRose, before shaving both ends, solder is poured inside the terminal to fix the PRESSED board firmly in place, and then both ends are shaved...Relay terminal is completed!
We were able to connect the Relay receiving Connector on the car body side and the replaced ICRelay Connector while converting well.
This time, the terminal included in the H4Connector set was the only one that worked without failure, so it did not come into play, but I purchased it as a spare in case the work failed.
Ordinary zinc-plated terminals (not gold-plated), very ordinary in shape and strength.
It is often used in the Connector for Large current, so it is a good idea to have it as a spare so you do not have to struggle in case of an emergency.
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6V For compatibility with Large type terminals that supply power to MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The car body was stored in a high humidity environment, so it was also battered by corrosion, but the humidity also entered the inside of the Harness and corroded the core wire in the cord, which was also battered.
Cut the damaged part, create a new Harness, and make a new Connector.
In the end, we had to redo the connector as the center of the connector, because moisture would penetrate and corrode from the area where it is crimped by the terminals in the connector.
When redoing a Connector, play it back in the existing Connector whenever possible.
It's a method of removing corroded terminals from a Connector and replacing only the terminals.
However, if the terminals are corroded, conduction resistance is created and heat is generated, which may cause the ConnectorBody to burn or melt.
Pinch especially Large-type Connectors with Large current flow when they are corroded.
So, this Connector, which is the source of the Large that supplies Battery power to 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, was looking a bit iffy, so we replaced it with a new one.
Since it is a standardized product, it is fully interchangeable, and even if it is necessary to replace the harness again for some reason in the future, it can be interchanged without a hitch.
The milk-white Connectors seem to have a tendency to crack over time due to heat and UV rays, but the milk-white OEM Connectors have withstood 30 years without cracking, so I am sure this one will be large and durable.
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Used to extend BlinkerWiring
Used to extend the Right Side wiring as it was too short when replacing the Rear blinker.
Naturally, we were able to extend it without difficulty.
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Tail lamp connection, etc.
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body is in shambles, but the terminals are fine! No wonder, the terminals are also in shambles.
It was energized at one point, but when we looked inside the Connector, it was spewing GreenBlue, so we rebuilt all the damaged terminals.
This terminal was used in the TailLight unit.
The OEM terminal was black and rusty from moisture in the air and was about to lose power at any moment, so we had to re-create it.
Cover on terminals OEM translucent Material:It was Plastic and we are reusing it.
(The common transparent Vinyl cover is too sticky and has bad parenthesis.)
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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Quantity when creating Harness:Pair (for Left and Right) for sharing
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
In such a situation, it was often impossible to keep up with Black and Red alone, and it became necessary to purchase GreenWiring, which often appears as a signal wire or sub-Wiring.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 2 m is a fair length, as it is not necessary to have a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
0.75sq is the same thickness as a typical thick Wiring.
The most commonly used is 0.5sq, but this thickness is OK because there is no problem for thicker.
There is also a modest Merit that Bullet Type Terminal is easy to Crimp because it is thicker and solder work is easy to do.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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for BlinkerBullet Type Terminal replacement
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
The 900SL (900SS is the same) has a front blinker embedded in the cowl, which is unusual for a sports type motorbike, and is connected to the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness with a Bullet Type Terminal. The front blinker is embedded in the cowl, which is unusual for a sports type motorbike.
However, the Connector uses not only the Bullet Type Terminal, but also an ultra-thin Flat Terminal to connect the BlinkerBody to the Harness.
This is the same as the Flat Terminal of the stop lamp switch used in the front master cylinder, and is an example of a terminal that can break off if handled carelessly.
Bullet Type Terminals can be very difficult to remove when fitted tightly.
When pulling in a narrow cowl, it is easy to pull Wiring as hard as you can with the momentum of the pull out.
If the momentum breaks the ultra-thin terminal that connects to the BlinkerBody, it will be Large strange!
Parts are still available, but they are expensive (nearly $10,000 for One Side) and we must try not to break them!
That's where this Connector comes in.
The original Bullet Terminal is left in place and a very short Connection Connector is made, and the 110-type Connector is used for connection and disconnection.
This way, the valuable Blinker body is not destroyed because it does not require monstrous strength to pull it out.
In this case, it is a non-polarized part, so it is fine, but this Connector is not reversible, so it is also ideal for parts that require polarity.
You can make a lot of progress just by stopping Bullet Terminal and using this Connector!
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For replacement of terminals blowing GreenBlue
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
This 110-type terminal is often used in recent BlinkerConnector and other products, and is quite compact.
Easier and more reliable than the old-fashioned Bullet Type Terminal, the Universal 110 Connector allows one-touch connection and disconnection of various pole numbers.
DUCATI in the 90's used it in the ignition system because part of the electrical system is JAPAN, and I bought it for reproduction of that terminal.
Since it is only an ignition system, we do not need 30 sets, but we are planning to make other connectors (Neutral switch, Hydraulic Sensor, etc.) compact and conecto.......
Even though it is called an ignition system, it is not suitable for parts where large current flows in the ignition spark, but for CDI, Modules, and other weak currents.
In this case, it was used in the ModuleConnector section.
Performance is normal, nothing special to say.
I recommend that you buy in bulk because it is not a Large price and you will not be in trouble if you buy in bulk.
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As terminal for 4.0sq cord for Earth
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The harnesses are also in bad shape, so we cut and re-created the damaged parts of each section.
The very thick wire for the Starter motor and the carburetorTire wire connecting the Engine and Chassis are also deteriorating over time and are crumbling and falling apart.
The internal core wire was also corroded by moisture that had entered the wire and was spewing GreenBlue, so it was re-created.
Purchased as a terminal for the part of the M6 Bolt fixing out of such a cord reproduction.
This is a Large type terminal used in areas that require Large current, such as the Starter Relay and Battery terminals.
The terminals are generally compatible with cords up to 2.0 sq.
However, I used it in an area that requires more LARGE current, so I double-connected the cord and used it.
Naturally, the Crimp cannot be used with the Crimp on the terminals, so only a portion of the Wiring is Crimped and the rest is fixed with a Solder.
The terminals are clean in terms of plating, the thickness is normal, and there are no odd bali, etc., so they are quite normal.
This is a good thing, because cheap Chinese-made products are sometimes very cheap in this area.
These terminals are essential for harness repair, but if you buy them at a specialty site where the unit price is lower, the quantity may be at least 100 pieces.
This product is Quantity:The perfect number of 1 set of 3pcs. means that there is no wasteful excess.
Considering the hassle of using multiple mail-order sites that sell them more cheaply, I think it is most cost-effective for normal people to buy DAYTONA products from Webike, even if they are a little more expensive.
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For Earth
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
Under such circumstances, we decided to purchase this as a replacement for the Large current part of the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, especially the Ground Cable that connects the Engine and the Frame.
OEM is this Size, but Earth is done directly on the contact surface between Frame and Engine other than this code, so it is like a bonus or a spare.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 1 m is a fair length, as we do not need a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
2.0sq is a very thick Wiring, which is the limit thickness for a Crimp such as Bullet Type Terminal.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness for Large current
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
In such a situation, we decided to purchase this as a replacement for the Large current part of the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, especially for the wiring of the part going to Headlight, etc.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 1 m is a fair length, as we do not need a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
2.0sq is a very thick Wiring, which is the limit thickness for a Crimp such as Bullet Type Terminal.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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Quantity when creating Harness:Pair (for Left and Right) for sharing
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
In such a situation, it was often impossible to keep up with Black and Red alone, and it became necessary to purchase GreenWiring, which often appears as a signal wire or sub-Wiring.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 2 m is a fair length, as it is not necessary to have a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
0.75sq is the same thickness as a typical thick Wiring.
The most commonly used is 0.5sq, but this thickness is OK because there is no problem for thicker.
There is also a modest Merit that Bullet Type Terminal is easy to Crimp because it is thicker and solder work is easy to do.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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