Reviews
Fits: YAMAHA YZ125, YAMAHA WR250F, YAMAHA TZR250R, YAMAHA YZ250F, YAMAHA YZ250FX, YAMAHA SY250F, YAMAHA WR250X, YAMAHA WR250R, YAMAHA XT250X, YAMAHA tricker, YAMAHA SEROW250, YAMAHA SRX400, YAMAHA SRX600, YAMAHA TT250R, YAMAHA YZ125X
Was Clutch this light?
Reason for purchase
Front up for the wupon, front up for the wupon, and many times for the Clutch operation during the twice blowing practice.
My fingers screamed and I wanted to lighten the Clutch a little bit.
I wanted to eliminate as much as possible the loss of clutch lever operation.
Assembly
You should have a Crankcase Cover Gasket on hand just in case.
Just replace the OEM Bolt with the Retainer+Bolt that came with it, it shouldn't be too difficult to manage the torque on the Bolt.
When replacing the Clutch wire, it's easier than you think if you connect the old one to the new Cable and GumTape etc. before removing the old one, because it goes through a pretty narrow space.
The Clutch Cable Guide is just a replacement for the OEM, but the space is too small to put the Bolt in.
It may be a bit of a challenge.
Effects
(Only Lever was replaced from 2014 new car purchase to 2020, no Wire was replaced.
(We only had to refuel with wire injectors and around the push lever.
Since three products (Clutch Cable, Cable guide and Retainer) were changed at the same time
It's unclear which Parts are more effective and how well they work.
But in Total, it's surprisingly light.
Up to nowQuantity:With 2pc finger operation, you can go from 1pc finger operation to almost 1pc finger operation at a moment's notice
I can now practice for long periods of time.
The Retainer is usually not visible. Hmm? It doesn't feel right. It is so easy to understand that.
Because the Cable guide changed from iron to Blue alumite of aluminum, it looks luxurious. Moreover, the deflection of Cable guide had been felt when I held Clutch, but the deflection decreased after the exchange.
Current state
I can now easily operate the Clutch with my 1 pc fingers, so I can focus on more things than just the Clutch operation when going over logs, rocks, etc... I can increase the number of times I can fit the Timing.
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Fits: YAMAHA TW200, YAMAHA TW225, YAMAHA SEROW225
Clutch crispness as expected
I installed it on SEROW225.
I bought it at a race participant's recommendation and it has the sharpness and control of the Clutch that I expected.
I felt that it was more accurate and higher quality than the OEM product.
It's a good product and it's a bit expensive.
If I have to replace it next time, I would buy and install it again.
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Fits: YAMAHA YZ125, YAMAHA WR250F, YAMAHA TZR250R, YAMAHA YZ250F, YAMAHA YZ250FX, YAMAHA SY250F, YAMAHA WR250X, YAMAHA WR250R, YAMAHA XT250X, YAMAHA tricker, YAMAHA SEROW250, YAMAHA SRX400, YAMAHA SRX600, YAMAHA TT250R, YAMAHA YZ125X
All good things! I don't feel any negatives
Just as I was about to start practicing front up on the XG250 TRICKER
i saw it in the new products section of webike and bought it as a crossover
It's expensive for a mere aluminum part, but the efficacy was perfect
The Lever is lighter and you can do subtle control like a half-clutch? It is
It's also slightly less likely to stall
In addition to the body parts, 10 pieces of Washer are included for adjustment
Pre-road of +1mm more than OEM without washer
A single washer, OEM same, etc.
Pre-Road of -1mm than OEM in two washer sheets
This is the case
If you want to make the Clutch lighter, put two pieces in it
By reducing the amount of pre-road to Spring
This is the theory behind the lightening of the Lever
Weakening the pre-road = The Clutch plate will be weakened
However, because the Retainer adjusts the direction of the force applied to the Spring, the
The Clutch works properly even if you reduce the pre-road
I can now easily Front up
Those who play in the woods should put it on for now
There is one caveat
I think it's a good idea to somewhat overtorque it to tighten it up
The difference in the torque of the five bolts also makes the pre-road over Spring
It is recommended that you measure it well, as it will be slightly RoseRose
However, the Bolt's default torque for stopping the Clutch Spring is 0.8kg, so you can use the
It is often impossible to measure the torque wrench for the wheel
You can also buy the Digital torque wrench together or leave it to your shop It is
This time I purchased the following additional Torque wrenches
https://www.webike.net/sd/23112632/
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Fits: YAMAHA YZ125, YAMAHA WR250F, YAMAHA TZR250R, YAMAHA YZ250F, YAMAHA YZ250FX, YAMAHA SY250F, YAMAHA WR250X, YAMAHA WR250R, YAMAHA XT250X, YAMAHA tricker, YAMAHA SEROW250, YAMAHA SRX400, YAMAHA SRX600, YAMAHA TT250R, YAMAHA YZ125X
An unassuming, but best-in-class dish
I'm sure most of you who have used it can feel it
I can feel the connection of Clutch is easy to understand in Direct
I think it's Clutch-friendly because it reduces the half-clutch time at Start
Of course, Start dash is better now
I grin at the sensation of the power that was escaping being transmitted to the rear wheels
The replacement also leaves the Mission and Clutch bare for the maintenance novice
The hurdle may seem high, but once you can manage the torques, the actual work is easy
You may not be able to reuse the spare Gasket and Oil line
Copper Washer should be prepared
You can make the Clutch lighter or more direct by changing the number of attached washers It is
By adding an additional Washer or replacing the Spring with another one at the same time
Even those who are not confident in their grip strength can easily operate it with one finger
I used all of the Washer that came with the OEMSpring as it was! (2 of each ×5 for a total of 10.)
The Clutch is a little lighter, but I feel the sense of connection is more solid than the OEM
But I'm On roadMain so I think I could have done without Washer
It's not a part that improves the performance of the bike itself, but it's a part that obviously improves the feeling of operation
SuperRecommendation
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