Reviews
Replacement for Radial masterCylinder change
When we changed from Horizontal Type MasterCylinder to Radial Type MasterCylinder, the Banjo Adapter was installed in a larger position, so we had to install it. View detail
Reliable Manufacturer
Since the parts around the Brake are vital, we chose a reliable Manufacturer.
The fact that there are many different lengths is also helpful, so that when the distance between the BrakeCaliper and the MASTERCylinder changes from the OEM, such as by changing the handlebar, the user can choose just the right length.
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Air Free Banjo Bolt is the only choice on the MASTER side, even if it is expensive!
When I have owned a vehicle for more than 20 years with a disc brake, I always change the banjo bolt on the MASTER side to an air-free type when I replace the brake hose with a mesh type because the difficulty level when bleeding air is reduced by a large amount.
I was able to easily pull out the Air that is stuck in the MASTER side, which is difficult to pull out, and the work time was reduced to a LARGE width.
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MASTER.
[How is it used?
Purchased a new OEM hose because it is not long enough to replace the Master Cylinder.
The OEMHose is a little short, so if you use an external master like brembo or GALE SPEED, it is not long enough, but if you use an extended VERSIONBolt, you can use it as is somehow, but the angle is a limit, so it could crack and break at any time.
Large front brake, so do not let your guard down!
Was the one you received as per Image?
Usual quality
At first I think it's made in Japan, but when I looked it up, it's a United Kingdom brand, so it's full of luxury!
Stickers are also included in the package, so you can quickly attach them to the car body!
Was the installation difficult?
Can be difficult if you're a beginner.
When removing the hose, be careful not to spill the Fluid!
If you put it somewhere, it will discolor or corrode quickly, so please prepare water before proceeding.
How was your experience with it?
as expected (as opposed to expected)
Soft and easy to angle
Nothing in particular that I think is wrong.
Just for reference.
Master Cylinder：GALE SPEEDVRC
Hose length:I bought 285mm, but when I installed it, 260mm is also enough, so I recommend 260mm.
In line with this, Active's Flare block adapter" should also be purchased in conjunction with the required
[Included Parts:were they on?
Sticker
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
I don't have it!
Other items that would be helpful
Installation points and hang/Availability and clarity of the Instruction Manual/Points to consider/Items to purchase/Opinions and requests to the Manufacturer
VERSIONBolt is not included.
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Relax with Stainless Steel
20° for new Crab installation.
Aluminum is the only choice for Stainless because it cracks.
It is surprisingly shiny, so I would like something with a matte texture from Hairlineetc.
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Left Side also
Purchased this one along with a Front caliper replacement for a New Model GSX1300R HAYABUSA.
Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) Quantity:I purchased 2pcs and here is the Left Side imprint.
The OEM was not long enough and the angle of the VERSIONBolt was different, so it had to be replaced.
However, it is not just a Hose replacement that can be used.
Caliper needs to be replaced→Hose needs to be replaced→Flare block adapter also needs to be replaced
A series of "↑" gold-dropping flows are required lol.
The old GSX1300R HAYABUSA does not have ABS, so as long as the hose from the master cylinder is replaced, it can be used as is,
For the New Model, the handling of the FrontHose has changed.
Apart from the hose from the Master Cylinder, there is a Gold hose from the ABS modulator and a Quantity hose from the ABS modulator.:2pc divided.
Therefore, first of all Flare bu Lock adapter. must be purchased.
・ Flare bu Lock adapter. https://www.webike.net/sd/24651726/Part No. FM10AN3T
Next, does the length vary by Caliper? I think they're probably the same, so here's a reference.
・Quantity:Length without 2pc Hose and Versionbolt:335mm*Quantity:2pc
But Hose alone is definitely not enough, so I purchased several Adapters below together in my case.
・https://www.webike.net/sd/1540510/ [Brake Fitting Adapter]. M10→AN3/8*2 for Caliper
45 degree Adapter
Well, there is not much information on the New Model GSX1300R HAYABUSA, so you will never know unless you try it yourself, but if you fail, your Gold will be wasted, so I will tell you everything I know and hope you will find it useful.
Next, I was a bit attracted to this product itself, especially since it has a Yellow color Tag?
Accuracy is not bad, but Quantity:I bought 2pcs, and one of them was leaking Fluid from the joint when pressure was applied, even if I tightened it from the beginning. But when I tightened it firmly one more time, it stopped leaking. I think it was because I didn't tighten it all the way to the back from the beginning after all. It has nothing to do with the quality of the product!
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Looks good to me.
Purchased this one along with a Front caliper replacement for a New Model GSX1300R HAYABUSA.
The OEM was not long enough and the angle of the VERSIONBolt was different, so it had to be replaced.
However, it is not just a Hose replacement that can be used.
Caliper needs to be replaced→Hose needs to be replaced→Flare block adapter also needs to be replaced
A series of "↑" gold-dropping flows are required lol.
The old GSX1300R HAYABUSA does not have ABS, so as long as the hose from the master cylinder is replaced, it can be used as is,
For the New Model, the handling of the FrontHose has changed.
Apart from the hose from the Master Cylinder, there is a Gold hose from the ABS modulator and a Quantity hose from the ABS modulator.:2pc divided.
Therefore, first of all Flare bu Lock adapter. must be purchased.
・ Flare bu Lock adapter. https://www.webike.net/sd/24651726/Part No. FM10AN3T
Next, does the length vary by Caliper? I think they're probably the same, so here's a reference.
・Quantity:Length without 2pc Hose and Versionbolt:335mm*Quantity:2pc
But Hose alone is definitely not enough, so I purchased several Adapters below together in my case.
・https://www.webike.net/sd/1540510/ [Brake Fitting Adapter]. M10→AN3/8*2 for Caliper
45 degree Adapter
Well, there is not much information on the New Model GSX1300R HAYABUSA, so you will never know unless you try it yourself, but if you fail, your Gold will be wasted, so I will tell you everything I know and hope you will find it useful.
Next, I was a bit attracted to this product itself, especially since it has a Yellow color Tag?
Accuracy is not bad, but Quantity:I bought 2pcs, and one of them was leaking Fluid from the joint when pressure was applied, even if I tightened it from the beginning. But when I tightened it firmly one more time, it stopped leaking. I think it was because I didn't tighten it all the way to the back from the beginning after all. It has nothing to do with the quality of the product!
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JA55 Left hand Brake for mounting
JA55 Left Hand Brake (Rear) Purchased for mounting.
I purchased 1235mm, but 1210mm would have been fine if I could have worked out how to handle it,
Stainless Steel Mesh Hose for a Direct feel.
Right hand Brake when the opportunity arises. (Front) I would also like to replace the
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JA55 Left hand Brake for mounting
JA55 Left hand Brake purchased for installation
At first, I assembled it with 45°, but I felt the Hose was compressed, so I replaced it with 20°,
It was installed with natural handling.
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JA55 Left hand Brake for mounting
JA55 Left hand Brake purchased for installation
It was settled at 45° from Master Cylinder just fine.
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Steady making
I bought this one because I thought Stainless would be more durable than AluminumMaterial.
The product is well made and leak-free.
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No amateur Brake hose for homebrew
This is a fitting part for the brake system, but unlike the general banjo adapter, it is a part that is directly attached to the stainless mesh brake hose (#3).
In addition to cutting the hose, shaping the end faces, and forming the wires, it is necessary to accurately insert the internal parts called Olive to prevent the socket from falling out.
The level of work difficulty is quite high.
Failure to do so will result in the Brake slipping out and dying, so it is painful unless you understand the structure and are quite confident in your detailed work, or you have experience in making Brake hoses many times.
If the hose is assembled in a way that is easy to assemble, the effect of the hose reinforced with stainless mesh wire will be lost, and you will end up with a disappointing hose that is better than a rubber hose...but only a touch better than a rubber hose.
The angle cannot be adjusted after assembly as is the case with the Banjo adapter type, so it is necessary to consider the direction and angle from the time of assembly.
It takes a lot of hang to put it together well, and there are very few amateurs who can do it well.
Fortunately, I have experience in the past in producing 200 hose kits a day for a certain company, so I am very familiar with this fitting process and can freely assemble them in 5mm increments.
The Banjo adapter type would have eliminated such difficulties, but why bother using the troublesome Olive type?
It's a Type that I think lighter and Simpler is Cooler.
It's a world of complete self-congratulation, where the loud, anodized, lumpy, hardened Hose hates Large.
The part number indicates that it is an authorized Goodridge product.
Banjo made by Goodridge is thinner than those made by other companies, which is good for a stylish finish.
This Straight banjo is so common that there is nothing special to say about it.
This is the MAJOR shape when it comes to Brake Parts.
The 900SL we used this time has a rear caliper with a floating mount, and the OEM used a 90°banjo to rotate the hose backward and halfway around the axle shaft to make the suspension strokes large and sturdy.
That is the best way to be sure, but at any rate, Parenthesis is bad.
The long hose is especially noticeable when viewed from behind at a right angle, where Motorcycle looks the most parenthesis.
The OEM arrangement of the Hose crawling along the upper surface of the Swing Arm was abandoned in favor of a new arrangement that runs along the Torque rod to the Swing Arm pivot.
Then it is best to take the Rear caliper straight out facing forward, so that is what the Straight banjo is for.
Aluminum is a very moving part of the material, so safety is a priority.:Stainless Steel。
I really like the Chromate-treated iron one (5092-03P), but unfortunately they don't carry it....
The straight banjo covers the top opening of the caliper, so the pad cannot be replaced unless the caliper is removed, but this is not a problem since it will be removed for cleaning anyway.
(It would be easier to work with the air bleed in front of it, but it is not a problem because the air can only be removed by removing it and inserting a disc prepared separately.
Parts have been around for decades, and the performance is unquestionable.
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No amateur Brake hose for homebrew
This is a fitting part for the brake system, but unlike the general banjo adapter, it is a part that is directly attached to the stainless mesh brake hose (#3).
In addition to cutting the hose, shaping the end faces, and forming the wires, it is necessary to accurately insert the internal parts called Olive to prevent the socket from falling out.
The level of work difficulty is quite high.
Failure to do so will result in the Brake slipping out and dying, so it is painful unless you understand the structure and are quite confident in your detailed work, or you have experience in making Brake hoses many times.
If the hose is assembled in a way that is easy to assemble, the effect of the hose reinforced with stainless mesh wire will be lost, and you will end up with a disappointing hose that is better than a rubber hose...but only a touch better than a rubber hose.
The angle cannot be adjusted after assembly as is the case with the Banjo adapter type, so it is necessary to consider the direction and angle from the time of assembly.
It takes a lot of hang to put it together well, and there are very few amateurs who can do it well.
Fortunately, I have experience in the past in producing 200 hose kits a day for a certain company, so I am very familiar with this fitting process and can freely assemble them in 5mm increments.
The Banjo adapter type would have eliminated such difficulties, but why bother using the troublesome Olive type?
It's a Type that I think lighter and Simpler is Cooler.
It's a world of complete self-congratulation, where the loud, anodized, lumpy, hardened Hose hates Large.
The part number indicates that it is an authorized Goodridge product.
Banjo made by Goodridge is thinner than those made by other companies, which is good for a stylish finish.
This 45-degree banjo is a bit of an oddity, perhaps because it is rarely used by people, and its price is very high!
The common Straight banjo or 20°banjo can be purchased for almost half the price, so they are not usually used.
However, it is sometimes necessary to use a 45°banjo in order to get the Hose firmly through the targeted area (Stainless Steel Mesh Hose is susceptible to bending).
This time, it is used on the Master Cylinder side of the Front brake.
Since we are using a racing master, a mechanical stop lamp switch is not installed, so we decided to use a bremboOEM banjo bolt type hydraulic stop lamp switch.
I dislike hydraulic stop lamp switches, but I dislike the mechanical stop lamp switches on the market even more (they have a lot of small parts cluttering up the master cylinder and are not easy to maintain), so I used the Banjo type.
The hose is located right below the bracket, but I wanted to avoid interference with the Cowl Bracket and drop the hose into the trident at the shortest possible distance, so I decided to use the most expensive one.
The T-shape Hose with intermediate joints, and the method of fixing it to the three sides at the junction point, so it does not move even if the Handlebar is cut or Brake is applied... then Material:I had a feeling it could be Aluminum, but Material:Aluminum can crack the socket due to stress, so wire the safety and Material:Stainless Steel.
Parts have been around for decades, and the performance is unquestionable.
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No amateur Brake hose for homebrew
This is a fitting part for the brake system, but unlike the general banjo adapter, it is a part that is directly attached to the stainless mesh brake hose (#3).
In addition to cutting the hose, shaping the end faces, and forming the wires, it is necessary to accurately insert the internal parts called Olive to prevent the socket from falling out.
The level of work difficulty is quite high.
Failure to do so will result in the Brake slipping out and dying, so it is painful unless you understand the structure and are quite confident in your detailed work, or you have experience in making Brake hoses many times.
If the hose is assembled in a way that is easy to assemble, the effect of the hose reinforced with stainless mesh wire will be lost, and you will end up with a disappointing hose that is better than a rubber hose...but only a touch better than a rubber hose.
The angle cannot be adjusted after assembly as is the case with the Banjo adapter type, so it is necessary to consider the direction and angle from the time of assembly.
It takes a lot of hang to put it together well, and there are very few amateurs who can do it well.
Fortunately, I have experience in the past in producing 200 hose kits a day for a certain company, so I am very familiar with this fitting process and can freely assemble them in 5mm increments.
The Banjo adapter type would have eliminated such difficulties, but why bother using the troublesome Olive type?
It's a Type that I think lighter and Simpler is Cooler.
It's a world of complete self-congratulation, where the loud, anodized, lumpy, hardened Hose hates Large.
The part number indicates that it is an authorized Goodridge product.
Banjo made by Goodridge is thinner than those made by other companies, which is good for a stylish finish.
In such a situation, this 90-degreesBanjo is quite different.
The long Pipe is very bad parenthesis with long and beyounding....
Well, this is a problem that comes with the Adapter type as long as 90-degreesBanjo is used.
The reason why I am using such a bad parenthesis to make a difficult Hose is because I want to use a banjo bolt type hydraulic stop lamp switch on the Master Cylinder side of the Rear Brake.
So Straight or angled Fitting shape cannot be chosen and must inevitably be Banjo style.
Furthermore, air-cooled 2-valve systems such as the DUCATI 900SS have the Master Cylinder in an exquisitely odd position and the extraction position, and the Hose must be rotated with the GRU at the swing arm pivot.
Many people use a straight out from the Master Cylinder, but it is no good, because the Sus Stroke will apply force in the direction of folding the banjo.
The 90-degreesBanjo is the most comfortable for the hose, considering the swing arm pivot is halfway around the swing arm pivot.
Since it is such a long part and the suspension strokes are subject to a lot of force, the material is prone to fatigue damage.:Aluminum is a bit scary.
That's why Material:Stainless Steel.
Parts have been around for decades, and the performance is unquestionable.
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No amateur Brake hose for homebrew
This is a fitting part for the brake system, but unlike the general banjo adapter, it is a part that is directly attached to the stainless mesh brake hose (#3).
In addition to cutting the hose, shaping the end faces, and forming the wires, it is necessary to accurately insert the internal parts called Olive to prevent the socket from falling out.
The level of work difficulty is quite high.
Failure to do so will result in the Brake slipping out and dying, so it is painful unless you understand the structure and are quite confident in your detailed work, or you have experience in making Brake hoses many times.
If the hose is assembled in a way that is easy to assemble, the effect of the hose reinforced with stainless mesh wire will be lost, and you will end up with a disappointing hose that is better than a rubber hose...but only a touch better than a rubber hose.
The angle cannot be adjusted after assembly as is the case with the Banjo adapter type, so it is necessary to consider the direction and angle from the time of assembly.
It takes a lot of hang to put it together well, and there are very few amateurs who can do it well.
Fortunately, I have experience in the past in producing 200 hose kits a day for a certain company, so I am very familiar with this fitting process and can freely assemble them in 5mm increments.
The Banjo adapter type would have eliminated such difficulties, but why bother using the troublesome Olive type?
It's a Type that I think lighter and Simpler is Cooler.
It's a world of complete self-congratulation, where the loud, anodized, lumpy, hardened Hose hates Large.
The part number indicates that it is an authorized Goodridge product.
Banjo made by Goodridge is thinner than those made by other companies, which is good for a stylish finish.
However, Banjo style fittings are destined to have the oil flow path bend many times inside and pass through narrow gaps.
Since the brake system does not have a vanishing flow of fluid (the brake only propagates pressure, and the fluid flows inside only when the pad is reduced and absorbs volume), there is no problem with the Banjo method, but this is not the case with the Hydraulic Clutch.
Since a tremendous amount of Fluid comes and goes each time the Lever is held, having a BottleNeck in the middle of the flow path is a Large problem.
But this Large problem is hardly recognized, and Hydraulic Clutch is mostly Banjo type, including OEMs.
It is true that Clutch operation is no problem even with the Banjo system...but I was inevitably concerned about the poor lever touch, so I decided to configure the system to eliminate Banjo from the Clutch system in order to ensure the highest Large flow rate.
We wanted a fee ring like a wire-style clutch with a heavy lever that cuts and connects in a snap.
Ideally, a commercial RacerTZ250 Clutch.
This is why we adopted the Fitting method, which was extremely effective!
From the air release stage, the lever moves in a passive manner and moves quickly in both the grip and release directions!
The feel is excellent because the fluid flows without resistance, and once you know this, you will never want to use a Banjo type Hydraulic Clutch again.
Although there are cheaper 90° bent Pipe fittings (with no performance problems), we chose this type (called "Forge") because of its parenthesis priority.
Brake Caliper is also employed with Parenthesis priority (Brake uses Banjo on the Master Cylinder side, so it does not make sense).
It is a waste of money to buy a 90°fitting when the handling is the same as when using a straight banjo or a 20°banjo!
Parts have been around for decades, and the performance is unquestionable.
Also, whatever, it's super Cool.
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Stainless Steel is safe
I chose stainless steel to match the black brembo. The color was not pure black, but it was a nice combination of colors. View detail
While changing the MASTER
JC92.OEMSwing Arm, brembo new Crab lower side, once UTurned forward like OEM, it was just right.
I am very happy that I was able to buy it at a low price on Sale.
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For grom jc92
I chose Stainless Steel because it was on sale at a lower price and I was told by an acquaintance that Aluminum can break.
This time we have Grom JC92 for Rear with 20 degrees on MASTER side and Straight on Caliper. Caliper is the new Crab.
Since we did the same pull as the OEM, it was easy to follow the Swing Arm.
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Single-push 3-pod conversion.
Piston not used in D-CBSCancellation has been restored.
Normal master for 2-piston, so Lever's Stroke has increased, but controllability is better.
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You can choose the length appropriate for your condition.
*Selected the shortest distance because I used 3 bottles and forgot the length already.
[How is it used?
Quantity on the front of vehicles not equipped with ABS:2 pcs (h-type), 1 pc used for Rear
Both are thought to have been used for more than 6 years and 60,000 km, but no records are kept, so the exact values are unknown.
I am almost always in Touring Maine, and rarely in the Shop.
Brake fluid is ACTIVE 4.0 or 5.1
Was the one you received as per Image?
Simple connection with Hose as per Image.
Compared to SWAGE-LINE, this product has a stiffer connection, which is why I prefer it.
Was the installation difficult?
I think I bought a slightly shorter hose because it was a Rear Sets, but I don't remember, so it may have been OEM.
I think I replaced the handlebar with a shorter one when I had my R25, because I replaced the handlebar with Daytona's Universal Product and lowered it, but I don't have a record of it, so I'm not sure.
As for Front, I made a rerouting that once extended from the OEM mid-branch to Caliper, but I don't think I stumbled upon anything.
For Rear, the troubles in routing were not difficult to overcome, as it mimics the OEM's fixed position and routing.
I think the air venting was generally a hassle.
I think it was easier to install the Adapter because the tip of the hose spins around, so I felt like I had to decide on the angle of the Adapter before fixing it in place.
How was your experience with it?
I've seen a lot of talk about Brake being tightly, but it wasn't particularly subtle enough to make a difference.
While deterioration of rubber parts in various parts of the vehicle is noticeable, unlike OEMHose, there are no rubber parts, which provides a sense of security against deterioration.
Stainless Steel, but the fear of snowmelt attack has not changed that much.
[Included Parts:were they on?
Hose only. Necessary Banjo, Adapter, and Fluid must be purchased separately.
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
None
Quantity everything for vehicles:There are set products on the market, but I think the advantage is that you can buy what you think is best suited to the condition of your vehicle. For some reason, almost all of them are black, but only some Adapters are made of normal Stainless Steel, so there is a high degree of freedom.
The product itself is a robust product that has been running for a number of miles and years with no apparent problems yet.
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