Reviews
Fits: KAWASAKI ZZR250, KAWASAKI ZZR1200, HONDA VTX1800, KAWASAKI ZX-12R, KAWASAKI ZX-11, KAWASAKI ZRX400-2, HONDA CB1300SF, HONDA CB1300SF, HONDA CB1000R, HONDA CB1000SF, KAWASAKI ZRX1200, KAWASAKI ZRX1100, KAWASAKI ZEPHYR1100, KAWASAKI ZR-7, KAWASAKI Z1000MK2, KAWASAKI Z400GP, KAWASAKI Z1, KAWASAKI W800, KAWASAKI W650, KAWASAKI NINJA250SL
It got brighter.
I purchased this because Light was dark.
It brightened up as expected!
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A quality low-profile blinker kit
The kit I purchased was well packaged and tailored for installation on a V-Strom 650. All parts appear to be good quality and ready for immediate installation on the bike. The kit includes wiring adapters to suit the bike (bullet connector to 2-pin Suzuki connector) and a new 7-pin LED blinker relay. Installation was easy for someone with moderate experience. Tools required: open-end wrenches (8~12mm), hex key wrenches (4~5mm), 10~12mm socket. The rear fender of the bike must be removed to access the wiring and remove the existing blinkers. Routing the wiring through the adapter plates, washer and nut requires patience and a delicate touch. Aside from that, it's a matter of securing connections with electrical tape and securing the wiring to the frame. The kit is quite bright and very visible, even during the daytime. The blinkers are all mounted on flexible stalks, so they should survive if the bike is dropped. Overall, I am very pleased with the purchase. View detail
It does not require processing. The lid is a bit ….
The USB power supply can be removed very easily if you don't feel the need to remove the front parts, which are the face of the motorcycle. If you don't feel that removing the front parts and drilling holes in the body is too much work, you can take out the USB power supply very easily.
It is not difficult if you have a set of tools used for maintenance. Drilling was done halfway using a plastic cutter, Nipper, and File.
Wiring is completed by simply joining the existing Connector, which is the quintessential OEMAttachment.
It is also helpful to be able to download the illustrated Instruction Manual.
Material for Waterproof:It has a rubber lid, but the fit is squishy and unreliable, and it hits a nearby screw when closed, so it's not great here.
Aside from the amount of work and quality, I wonder if the most appealing feature of the Large is the ability to take out the USB power supply without any wiring process.
For reference, it took about 2~3 hours to do the work by hand.
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Bright!
The OEM was dark, so we replaced it with a new one and the custom feel is improved.
[Color] I chose Smoke and it is not too Black.
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Was good
The product arrived quickly because I was out of bulbs. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA
Seems a little high.
Feels a little unstable in the mounting position View detail
There is a sense of security dedicated to the car model.
DL1000 V-STROM650XT ('22) The product has been installed in a
It will be used in conjunction with Hepco&Becker's Engine Guard,
The bracket of the Radiator part was a little bit hit by the Guard,
The installation was only a little difficult, but it was almost interference-free. I think there may be individual differences, so this is just for reference.
Because the connection between the Fog Lamp and the included Harness was a Flat Terminal,
We changed to WaterproofCoupler just in case.
The brightness is sufficient for an auxiliary light,
Cutline is also solid, so I don't think it will bother oncoming traffic.
Considering the price, the texture might be a bit lacking,
If you are concerned about this, you should consider another product.
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Service Reminder Reset for New Model GSX1300R HAYABUSA
[How is it used?
Recently, many manufacturers have adopted a system in which the Lamp on the Meter lights up when it is time for maintenance.
Various foreign car manufacturers, especially Ducati, are doing this.
But recently, domestic cars are also becoming like that:you have to drop Gold to the Dealer to get rid of the Lamp. Is this part of the Dealer's business strategy? So, even for a simple oil change, if you don't go to the Dealer to have it done, the maintenance Lamp is still glowing all the time.
is Japanese pampas grass, a simple homemade one is all that is needed to solve the problem.
Was the one you received as per Image?
As per Image
It's better to buy it with other things. Since it's only about $100 anyway, the actual store is a better deal when shipping is included.
How was your experience with it?
Effective.
[Points to note]
You have to insert it deep to get it to work.
How did it compare to other products?
Nothing in particular to compare.
Other items that would be helpful
Installation points and hang/Items to buy together/ Opinions and requests to the Manufacturer
In doing the work, this method is probably a maintenance procedure that is not covered under warranty.
If you want to be stingy with your Gold, please use it only as a reference.
If you are a little worried about the work, you should still buy the OEMReset switch.
OEM reminder Reset switch
09930-83130 Available at Webike, but currently out of stock?
By the way, in most cases, they fail.
It will not respond unless it is inserted firmly and deeply.
Then press and hold the LeftSelectSwitch▼Button to open MENU, select SERVICE, MODESwitch to determine RESET, which is not usually displayed, select Yes when Yes/No appears, and then you can set it individually!
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Fits: Others
The Connector part is Compact, but the Body box is in the way.
As a result of changing Navigation from 5-inches to 7Inch, when connecting Navigation power to the USBConnector on the BOLT Shoulder Bag
It became difficult to do, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to replace it with this product, which is 2.4A compatible.
As mentioned in the Title, the Connector is compact and unobtrusive, but the Body (transformer from 12V to 5V?) is not. However, the Body (transformer from 12V to 5V?) is
I was worried about the mounting position because it is bulky.
Finally, it is fixed with Double-sided Tape on the Front side of the Top Bridge, which is hidden by the Bullet Cowl.
Red wiring is very noticeable as it is, so the Bullet Terminal is cut out and soldered on.
Spiral Tube and Wiring Cover were used to prevent the Red color from being seen.
The Connectors placed on the Handlebar are Compact and unobtrusive, so they look good when not in use.
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The price is ….
It looks cool, but as with all RS parts, the price is too high! View detail
Easy to secure power supply
It is an excellent and easy way to secure power. View detail
Fits: SUZUKI GSX750, SUZUKI GSX750 , SUZUKI GSX750 , SUZUKI GSX1000S, SUZUKI GSX1100S, SUZUKI GSX1000S, SUZUKI GSX1100S
KATANA SPEEDO NEEDLES
I recieved the Katana speedo needles quicker than expected and it arrived in a well protected package. Once I get some free time I will install them. I was so impressed with the service that I did not hesitate to order another product. Thanks! JOHNNY "B" KATANA View detail
It picks up Noise.
I thought I knew what ShiftTiming was even without the Tachometer.
The re-acceleration is inevitably slow in the SCENE that requires climbing the board.
I purchased it to keep track of RPMs.
While retrofitted, the position and Size are moderate, and the high brightness makes it easier to read than the OEM Speedometer.
However, the Clutch Cable runs through the Shift Up Indicator position, so it is not visible when the driver is riding. (I guess it depends on your body shape …)
Also, as is common with retrofitted tachometers, the rpm may rise or fall by around 500 rpm during cruising.
The performance is sufficient for me as I only needed to know the approximate number of revolutions.
I was able to correct my riding style because I was SHIFT UP at lower rpm than I expected.
The installation is more difficult because the tank needs to be lowered.
The illustrated Instruction Manual is clear and helpful and manageable.
However, although not a problem with this product, we had two problems during installation.
1. OEM Speedometer BracketMounting Bolt stuck at an angle.
It is fixed by biting into the Blinker Bracket and Meter Bracket.
The Bolt on the Meter Bracket was stuck at an angle, making it difficult to replace the Bolt.
(It's mainly Honda's fault since it's due to individual differences in the car body.)
2. occupies the power supply for Attachment (+ voltage shortage may occur)
The power supply for the Attachment provided on the Brake Side is used.
Already incompatible with USB power supply and Cigar socket.
The same thing happens when I make the connections as per the Instruction Manual, but
While the Cell is spinning, it seems to run out of voltage and reboots (re-opens).
The Harness length is long enough to reach the bottom of the Seat even through the bottom of the Tank.
I modified the Wiring to take power directly from Battery and it improved.
The voltage display function compares the voltage at the time of wiring according to the Instruction Manual with the voltage at the buffer.
The voltage seems to be slightly lower in the former. (It is not the fault of this product, but the spec. on the car body side.)
The following products were used for the Wiring change.
KIJIMA:ACC Branch Harness Kit]
https://www.webike.net/sd/21317023/
DAYTONA:Attachment Power Supply Unit D-UNITPlus]
https://www.webike.net/sd/24232600/
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Fits: HONDA CB300R, HONDA CB125R, HONDA CB250R
It's difficult, isn't it?
I put Meter's Film on the new car.
I thought it was no different than GlassFilm for cars.
He applied it with a mild detergent.
Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee dust ・・・・ tears
That's a tough one.
I wouldn't worry too much about it since it's for Meter Protection purposes.
Fortunately, it is expensive and contains two different types of films.
I'll try again next time.
You must be a PRO to be able to do this so beautifully.
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They say it's good if it lasts 5 years.
After five years, it broke. When I removed it, the yellow-colored luminous body was shattered and the base was burnt to brown. The light suddenly faded and became like a miniature light bulb and disappeared. I was surprised because I happened to be watching it. It would have been extremely scary if I had been driving at night.
When I bought it, the yellow colored tip was not square and the corners looked peeled off in places. I asked the ManufacturerStaff if the Large tip was sturdy, but they said it was fine, so I had it installed.
Well, it would be impossible because it looks like the LED light-emitting base part is burnt out.
As for the product review, at 6000k.
It is not brighter than OEM, but the color is White, so some scenes actually look darker. It is still not as good as the most powerful HeadlightHID, but it looks better than the OEM Halogen when compared to rural roads and other places without streetlights. 。
However, in urban, city, suburban, and highway areas where there are some lights, the white LEDs are covered by the lights and it is difficult to tell whether the light is illuminating or not.
If the Type is one light on low and two lights on high, I would recommend changing the color temperature with low high.
This time I did the work myself, but when I first bought it, I was told that it would wait 20,000 hours or 10 years if it didn't break, but in fact it was 5 years, so I felt like I lost money, but that seems to be the way it is.
It is good that they are cheaper now because of the New Model, but I wish they would have stopped reducing the warranty to 2 years if they continue to claim that they can be used for a long time.
Now, how to do the work
This time, I performed the work myself, copying the way SphereLight's ManufacturerStaff actually did it on my Motorcycle.
As mentioned in the postscript, the way this Rubber fits (How to put it out?) If this is the case, the heat sink portion will be buried in the rubber, so I am concerned about whether the heat dissipation will be large enough to withstand the heat.
Turn the round cover of the OEM Headlight unit counterclockwise about 1 cm to remove it.
Remove the valve spring and remove the light valve.
Remove the Attachment from the Valve of the product and insert the removed Attachment into the place where the Headlight Bulb was inserted, with the four notches facing backward, and fasten it with the Spring.
At this point, you should install the Valve once in the Attachment and remember the feeling of pushing and turning it to install.
Attach the supplied CouplerConnector to the product as described in B of the Instruction Manual.
Connectors on the body side and the Light side are connected.
...At this point, conduct a lighting test.
The space inside the Headlight unit is quite large when you put your finger inside, so leave about 15cm of Wiring and put all Connectors and Controllers inside the Unit. (I put almost all of them in Space under Unit)
Note that if the wiring connected to the light is about 10 cm, the light valve will stick when the cover is attached and will not be able to be pierced.
If the controller rattles inside the headlight unit, use the Tie Band to hold the controller in place. I don't do it.
Once this is done, it is time to install the rubber cover, which is the most difficult part.
It takes several hours at worst, and although it is easy to install if the Rubber is heated considerably, it is not recommended because deformation is a concern.
The difficulty level increases because everything is put into the Unit.
Push the outer frame of the Rubber cover into the Unit.
At that time, the side that is folded should be toward the rear of the vehicle.
When you push it in, there are three indentations where the OEM's round cover fits.
Make sure three Folds are outside the Unit, then install the LED Bulb.
(Note that if you push the Rubber as hard as you can, only one Fold will come out backward.)
(The outer frame of the rubber cover of the type after the warranty period of 2 years is larger than that of the type before that, so it should be installed in a larger size.)
LED Bulb is perpendicular to the ground when installed.:Pair (for Left and Right) to be facing the
If the remaining wiring seems long, push it in a little at a time.
The above work was completed without making any cuts.
ManufacturerStaff had done this and it was a work procedure that worked fine.
However, if the rubber is pushed out this far, the heat sink will be buried in the rubber, so I wonder if the heat dissipation is Large sturdy. I wonder,
I had done it this way before, so I copied it as it was.
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Lack of good product Level is low.
Used on a SEA BASS VST 650. I tried riding at night with it on, but it was dark. It is just too dark. Also, the optical axis is a little bit off. So, when I adjust it to the lower side, the difference of optical axis between high beam and low beam is very different. PIAA or Ray Brick (Stanley) I would not recommend purchasing anything other than the 2-wheel dedicated LEDs from I think the next best choice would be SYGN HOUSE. By the way, I have purchased SYGN HOUSE twice in the past, but the low beam ran out after about 1.5 years. I hope this will help you in your purchase. View detail
Nice touch!
The Tail is much brighter and I am happy with it! View detail
I don't know if it will fit, but I bought it anyway.
I don't know if it will fit, but I bought it anyway. View detail
Fits: HONDA CT125 CT110 HUNTER CUB, HONDA CT125 CT110 HUNTER CUB
Durability may be difficult.
The ease of installation was a plus.
The battery stopped charging less than six months after installation.
According to Manufacturer, it was due to age and not covered by warranty.
I hoped it would be a little sturdier and last longer.
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Fits: HONDA MONKEY125, HONDA DAX125, HONDA CT125CT110 HUNTER CUB
There's no way out of air.
I did it with a good amount of detergent and plenty of Kiribuki, but I couldn't get the air bubbles out. View detail