Reviews
Is it essential if Rear suspension is invented higher?
The suspension of the W650 is fluffy both in front and rear, so I changed the rear to OHLINS to get the balance.
Leave the work to the PRO.
Thanks to the non-etc. pitch, it sinks according to how much the front brake is applied. If it is applied firmly, it sinks firmly, and unlike NORMAL, there is no feeling of bottoming out.
Also, the front suspension was worn out, but replacing it made it look crisp and clean.
Gap of the road is changed to be processed firmly.
It's not only hard, so I can now comfortably do the panylon slalom.
If you can buy a good Rear, it's definitely better to replace it to get Balance.
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Parts where OEMFork comes alive
I put it in while I was at FFork O/H.
As for the feeling of use, Smaller vibration is transmitted to the Handlebar from the NORMAL time. 。 It's not uncomfortable, but it might bother you if you are long distance touring. But if it's like this, you can adjust the weight of Bar End.
It feels GOOD to run into it! Isn't this already good enough for the OEM? I can say that it feels like.
It's a natural sinker, and it will step on you at the back.
The settings are set to the manufacturer's standard values, but the bounce is just right, and the sense of ground contact is transmitted to the linear. It seems like a good idea.
If you're a running enthusiast, I strongly recommend switching to the SportsTire because you'll be frustrated with the Tire as you pack up the attenuation. 。 Touring tire is not enough.
One complaint was that the only Oil that came with it was a single 1lbottle.
When I put in the Manufacturer's Regulation Value, I got about 490 ml on One Side.
When I finished putting in both of them, there was really only a little left over, but if I spilled it while working, the work would be interrupted, and since the fork oil had to be bleached, theoretically it would be better to put in a little more before pulling it out, but this was not acceptable.
I wanted about 1.5 liters as an accessory, too.
Also, it's a bit pricey.
About 20,000 yen for two spring bottles... 。
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Fits: YAMAHA YZF-R25, YAMAHA MT-07, KAWASAKI Z650RS, YAMAHA YZF-R3, YAMAHA XSR700, YAMAHA YZF-R25, YAMAHA MT-07, KAWASAKI Z650RS, KAWASAKI Z650RS
It's convenient to be able to set up without tools.
I bought it to adjust the NORMAL and soft MT-07Front suspension.
Accuracy is also no problem.
I replaced it with an EFFEX EZ-FIT bar and it never interfered with the operation of the EFFEX EZ-FIT bar, and the Normal handle bar should have no problems as well.
To turn the Dial requires a certain amount of power, but it is something like this. It is not possible to operate it in the state of straddling, but it is convenient to be able to adjust it without a tool. It is also possible to change it in the destination according to the place where it runs (it becomes the intention to change).
I think it's good because it looks and feels custom.
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Fee Ring doesn't fit.
The amount of sinking of the fork becomes large at the beginning of breaking and it is very difficult to ride. I changed the height of the oil surface or returned to NORMAL, but I am thinking. View detail
That's good for high speed driving!
I've already replaced the front fork spring on my 30 year old fz750! I wanted to put in a NORMAL game, too, for Race
But I could not find anything but Hyper pro's, so I decided to buy it
It's not like a brand new SpringNORMAL that was considered a quirky one! Corner entry and turnaround is a little easier now! When I was in NORMAL, I used Brake to adjust the sinking speed, but that's where I was It's easy, sir
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If you want to keep a normal look, use Recommendation
The NoseDive is significantly reduced, but of course it will pick up the Gap as the Rate goes up If you fly in the mountainous terrain, or do circuit run meetings once or twice a year, the performance is good enough for you It is
I feel that the swaying is much lessened in a loose Curve or something like that when I'm flying a little fast Brake also came to work better than before
I can't buy and use up OHLINS and other expensive forks I think it's quite cost effective
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The ride is much more comfortable
My beloved F4-BRUTALE 800 has the (too hard?) spring characteristics of a Rear shock I don't know if it's a problem with the Damper, or if it's a problem with the Damper, but it's not comfortable to ride in the city, flopping around and bouncing around It is It's good for flowing at a high pace on a good road surface, but..
The way I ride, I have a high ratio of city rides, so I need to improve my ride! But you can't buy the Rear shock itself! So I decided to replace it with Hyper pro's Spring, which has a good reputation around
■ Design
I don't like the PurpleSpring, personally It's easy to recognize "Hyper pro" at a glance, so it's very customizable (?) There is a spring It's a good thing that Spring is not so visible when installed in the vehicle
Performance
As soon as you step over it, you'll know it's Soft
No more uncomfortable thrusts in city driving and the ride is much more comfortable
It's a good impression to ride at a high pace on the mountain passes, and it's safe to ride on the old roads in poor road conditions ThrottleOpening is now available, which makes it easier to adjust the Damper
Is the stiffness of the OEM Spring rate based on Circuit driving assumptions, or is it a two-seater and high speed I don't know what a safe spring rate? on the road is I'm 185cm tall and weigh just under 90kg, so I should be in the shape I'm supposed to be in for a European car
Installation difficulty
The work itself is simple, but the basic tooling + spring compressor and I need a STAND etc It took me about 2.5 hours of amateur work
General Comment
If you're only riding around town & riding at a high pace on the mountain passes, you should definitely replace it It will be moist like a lie from bouncing around I also run the Circuit from time to time, but it seems to be no problem for me since I'm a level arm participating in a running session Since there is also a front fork spring for F4-BRUTALE, it is necessary to change this spring as well I'm going to try it
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Cb400SF hyperpro front fork spring
Great product My front fork is so much better Doesn’t dive under hard braking Doesn’t bounce up & down when throttle is open or close Recommended to replace your stock spring as it’s too soft View detail
GROM and Steering damper!
I hadn't planned to go to MyGROM until Steering damper... Last year, I It's been a long time coming since I installed the OHLINS "Stealing damper disease I've developed a The last thing you want to do when you develop the disease is to get on your phone "GROMSteering damper and hit on several GROMs with steering damper Among them, the GROM with Hyper pro:Steering Damper is amazing Parenthesis well and "Stealing damper disease has become so severe that the first Parts installation of 2020 "Steering damper installed It was
Satisfied with the cost performance
In addition to the steering damper, you can also install the steering damper by using the You will need Steering Damper Bracket and Body Clamp Parts It's not cheap to get them all, but the mechanical looking Parenthesis goodness is outstanding and stands out If your budget allows, I would recommend it
Performance as expected
It is about 3,000 yen more expensive than the CSC type, which has a constant damping force, but the range of adjustment of damping force is quite wide Flexible, adjustable damping, perfect for everyday driving Adjust the damping again Hard side to the normal Steering damper effect! On the contrary, it's full to the brim "Soft side When you adjust to the Steering, you are not limited to SelfStir, which is great for everyday riding It will be a damper By the way, the damping force adjustment is 20 steps
The shape and details are well made
There are many color variations (7 colors) and a Speed controlValve ( No damping in normal steering operations, but only for sudden movements Functionality) and a single piece Piston rod (one piece Piston rod It is a function that is resistant to bending and twisting and prevents oil leakage HeatExtensionReserver (Hold down OilHeat and keep it stable) Dumping and Air generation holding function)
Reliable Brand/Included Parts:-Instruction Manual is kind
Hyper pro and reliable manufacturer, plus Active handling There is also an Instruction Manual on handling so translations (please enter here) (Handling Instruction Manual in English version is also included) Included Parts:is a translation of Steering Damper Body (click here Handling of English Version notationInstruction Only the Manual comes in the box Also, if you buy it at UeBig UeBig Anshin Service (Repair Warranty) Warranty is also included and comes with a 1-year warranty from the date of shipment
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GCraft Recommended Parts
Each part is required to install the steering damper to the GROM The first thing you will need is a GCraft steering damper for GROM Bracket The Steering Damper Bracket for GROM made by GCraft is a product of GROM This is a product manufactured with limited space and the quality of production is excellent and highly recommended! Now, after selecting the GCraft Damper Bracket for the GROM, the GCraft The Damper Bracket recommended Parts are Steering Damper by Hyper pro Body clamps to secure the Steering damper with Hyper pro Body Clamp Type 3 is required
Hyper pro Body Clamp Type 3 Impression
Hyper pro Body clamp TYPE-3 has a built-in pillow The Steering is set to Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) When you move the steering damper, the steering damper also moves The movement of the steering damper is controlled by the Body clamp/TYPE-3's built-in pillow The steering dampers are designed to be controlled by the steering damper Also, if you tighten the M6Bolt on the body clamp with the prescribed torque, you can adjust the Steering Since the damper body will be deformed, the damper bracket should be tightened with the sensation of the hand In addition, use the Body clamp Type 3 with the Damper Bracket made by GCraft with Bracket's "Low Head Bolt to secure it in place Be careful not to make a Bolt mistake when doing so! But... it's different in appearance from the other Bolts, so I thought it would be Large strong! I think so, but don't panic, it's a confirmation
It is important to note that the Body clamp Type 3 is used as a Steering Damper When fixing the bracket to the post section of the bracket, use the screw locking agent on the bracket Apply the Screw Lock agent to the tip of the screw thread, and then attach the Body clamp TYPE-3 to the body clamp At that time, apply the screw lock agent to the body clamp/TYPE-3 with the low head If you apply Screw Lock agent without passing through the Bolt, you will not be able to get a good result Be careful not to get any screw locking agent on the pillow part of Body clamp TYPE-3 It is
By the way... When I use Screw Lock agent, I use a small amount of Screw Lock The Screw Lock agent is applied and stretched with a toothpick The screw lock agent is also used as a screw lock agent for radio control helicopters (medium (strength) Also, the Screw Lock agent will weaken the Screw Lock function when heated When redoing or removing the bolts that have been coated with locking agent, use a heat gun or soldering iron to remove them Warming it up will loosen it up!
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Moist and sticky, smooth movement
Honda tends to do a reduction in cost with suspension these days This is the part that makes me wonder
I was going to improve the Rear Suspension because it was bouncy to begin with
perhaps It's because the Front is losing ground to Rear Suspension thinking
I adopted Front Suspension and Front fork at the same time
The result was a satisfactory operation, although Rear Suspension is OHLINS
It responds to Rear Suspension and absorbs the load firmly
Not only is it flexible and persistent, but it also operates smoothly
It's cheap for custom parts, but the effect is obvious
If you're having trouble with your undercarriage movement, you should include it
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XTZ750
Compared to NORMAL, NoseDive is quite hard, and NoseDive is less, but because it is hard, the absorption of vibration Sweet The fork oil that comes with it is also hard, and I replaced it with Yamaha's No. 10, and I am still using it Next time, I think #5 is good View detail
We don't really need it
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
I'd say it's a well-known manufacturer, but the installation notation is translated (enter here) The point that it is not
Is the bracket for car model mounting imported? Long periods of shortages
Do you have any wishes or improvements you would like to make for the Manufacturer?
Active handling, a simple translation (please enter here for the instruction manual)
[Do you have any products to compare it to?
OHLINS. but front and rear suspensions and DamperManufacturer I got it all together
What made you decide to buy?
The kind of coloring that OHLINS does not have
How was your experience with it?
The OEMDamper is always under constant pressure and the Handlebar feels heavy at low speeds
The RSC Type is easy to operate the Handlebar as it only applies pressure when necessary
Was the installation difficult?
It is the same position as the OEM installation, but it is more efficient to remove the Upper Cowl
Since I installed it without removing the Cowl, I had to use my hands to attach it
Torque wrench is also narrow and Large strange
【Please tell me the installation point and hang】
Let's take the Upper Cowl off and put it on (lol)
[Was the Instruction Manual easy to understand?
The exploded paper is Quantity:1pc. so you should understand it well before recommending installation
[Included Parts:were they on?
It's hard to say because the mounting bracket is different for each model of car
[Others]
Stem Mount is cooler than the GSX1300R HAYABUSA, but Lack of maintenance
The OEM position is the opposite of that, but Damper can barely see it (lol)
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The quintessential Hyper pro
I was worried about BEET Reinforcement Spring, but the proven Hyper Choose the pro, I know the unfair Pitch does a good job, too, because I've been on the X4 before and I was the first to do it Disappointing low quality for the price with Progressive, quickly replaced with Hyper pro I found out about the greatness of it by doing and thought it would be Hyper pro if I had to replace it
The behavior of the Spring, which has no hips, differs from the OEM's Spring, which is easy to ride and has a small impact is a Large Pitch, and the Fine Pitch handles Large loads I guess
I was worried that it was a little shorter than the OEM, but it was stiffer and stronger than the OEM's The corner can be turned comfortably without the feeling that Spring is bouncing all the way to the end
Is it because the Demerit weighs less? Large impact because of its hardness, and if it's a rough road, you'll be pushed up, but it can't be helped
If you replace the rear and front, it will be easier to bend the corners, but it will be faster If you use Corner, Frame is not strong enough... this is the limit! root (of a plant)
In my case, I might be able to lower the oil level a bit more than specified (the weight affects the Large size)
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I like not having to process the Top Bridge
I was wondering if it was going to be Bird's or Hyper pro, but I didn't need to drill a hole in the Top Bridge This is the one I chose
Gold is also a cool match for Caliper and Front fork
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The Handlebar shake will subside a bit too
This is a custom that is very visually appealing I think it's well made and cool 。 。
Its effectiveness is unknown for use in the marginal area
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If you want to Lowdown without losing performance, this is the only way to do it
MT-07 has a height of 805mm and its footprint is not so bad However, it is effective to lower the Seat height further if you do not want to jostle on your feet Since the road is not necessarily flat, it is quite common to have a depression where you put your foot on the ground
In the case of a LINK type suspension, changing to for LowdownLINK is the best way to lower the Seat height The cost performance is the highest and easiest, but the disadvantage is that the cornering performance is I don't want to lose the cornering performance, so I chose Hyper pro's Lowdown spring So I opted for Hyper pro's lowdown spring
It was also important to note that it is a Front and Rear Set, and the Front Quantity up to special Fork oil:It's set and that was also a deciding factor
If you've ever replaced a front fork spring, if you've ever changed fork oil, you'll know what to expect It's not so difficult to do The Instruction Manual is also detailed
As for the Rear, the degree of difficulty is quite high, and the Access to the Rear Damper is the same as the MT07's The case is easier than other motorcycles Just use the Material:It is connected to the Aluminum Crankcase, so my MT07 has a Damper The mounting is tilted inward by the tightening torque, and despite the fact that the Bolt was removed The Damper did not come off and was closed Also, I pulled the OEMSpring out of the Damper that I removed and put the Hyper pro's Replacing it with Spring is a task that is beyond User's control because it requires special tools
After the installation, the front part of the car has more damping, and the suspension is much better than the one I like As for the Rear, since the Damper is the same, the height of the car will only drop I don't feel that much of a change
There is no question that the footing is better, as the height of the seat is 785mm, which is a 2cm drop That's why it's better than SecondMotorcycle's CBR250R (MC41) It's easy to do UTurn with your feet
If you drop the vehicle height, you tend to lack the inclination angle when using Side Stand, but this is not a problem When parking on a slope, if you take into account the direction of the vehicle to avoid a reverse tilt, you can switch to Short Stand You don't have to
In the case of the MT-07, there is a lack of bank angle, which makes it easier to hit the knee slider, but my The MT07 has been replaced with Rear Sets, so the bank angle is fine
Cornering performance is better than NORMAL However, since the lack of Dumping of the Rear Damper is still OEM Damper, it is not the same as the shaken one Weaknesses intact
Since the goal is to improve the footprint, we were able to achieve that goal without sacrificing cornering performance I'm glad I replaced it
In the case of the general user, whether the Shop will do the replacement work or not depends on the amount of labor cost I think it's going to be a dividing line
My MT07 is the First Model Type After 2018, when the setting changed and Rear Damper became a little higher etc The Second Type Model will have a different finish
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Fork oil change and more
If you don't put up a sticker or something, it's hard to understand how it looks You can
Front of the SV, it's cheap, but in the OEM state, the thrust and spring is unpleasant
It's a waste of oil that comes with it because the viscosity is high It's a softer change for me
The simple structure of the fork is the same as that of an oil change, and the color, viscosity and oil I think I can get closer to the ideal by adjusting the surface height etc Since the previous vehicle also worked well, I'm looking forward to Sette Ing
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Reduction of fatigue
I went on a long touring trip with the DL1000 V-STROM650 on it
When fitted, push and pull the Fork, it sounds Large with NORMAL fee Ring No change But when you drive over the Gap, there is a big difference
Obviously, the vibrations converge faster when you cross the Gap
So you can ride safely and reduce fatigue when you drive long distances
As a Fee Ring, the Front movement is soft, but it feels hip
I would recommend replacing the Spring to give your Suspension a quality movement I'm starting to think about replacing my Rear springs with Hyper pro as well
The Manual is careful and reassuring, but the Oil that comes with it is a bit lacking
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The bobbling feeling of the Front is gone, and the road surface is pushed firmly
The front of the GSR250 is just too soft and moves too much
After using the Hyper pro, the stability of the corner ring has been improved to a great extent
It feels like the Front pushes and bites the road surface firmly
And yet, it doesn't feel like a stiff Fork at all
Long turns at motorway interchanges and junctions, and a downhill Hairpin at Winding etc
Even a scene that I was a little uncomfortable with is now more stable and enjoyable!
If you have enough money in your pocket, I recommend you to exchange Rear and Front at the same time
For more information, click here
https://imp.webike.net/diary/0180490/
And then
As you can see in the picture, Spring is much longer than the OEM
The collar that was installed on the OEM will be removed and assembled
In my case, I had replaced the Fork cap with an AGRAS InitialAdjuster But the Pin that stops the InitialAdjuster's Washer is not compatible with Spring It was bad, so I removed the Pin and installed it
Click here for installation
https://imp.webike.net/diary/179245/
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