Reviews
It can be used normally just like OEM.
When my Regulator broke down and I was about to buy one, I bought it because the vehicle I bought used originally came with one of these and I wanted the same one.
It is cheap compared with the OEM Product, and because it was moving for a while without a problem, I think that trust can be done.
The connections around the Wiring were well made and there were no problems.
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Overvoltage.
After installing and riding the car, I started hearing an unfamiliar sound and the Cell Motor kept turning.
I contacted Kawasaki and they told me that the problem was in the junction box, so I immediately ordered a new one. I installed it and the problem went away, but it came back again. I suspect that this product is the cause of the destruction of the Junction Box in the first place.
When the symptom occurred, it happened when the engine was turned to high RPM. When the engine was turned to high rpm, it became over voltage and it was judged that it was breaking Relay etc. in the junction box.
I had to OEM the Regulator and order the Junction Box again that I just bought.
It may have been a bad product that I received, but it is the worst product I have ever received. I learned my lesson that I will always use OEM Product for my electrical system.
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A must for older cars with 6V
Bought this for my Honda ELSINORE 125.
The ELSINORE 125 has only rectification of the RectiFirea, so it is voltage controlled by Battery.
The electrical system was updated with the modern one without being concerned about the original.
This 6V Regulator, home-made EDLCBattery reply, BlinkerLED and Tail lampLED are working with Battery reply without any problem.
The Blinker and Tail light up brightly even in Idling state.
It is easier than rewinding the coil or rectifying the full wave to 12V.
VANVAN90 is the same thing and I left it at 6V for Battery reply.
It's been 5 years since I installed it and it's been fine.
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Fits: KAWASAKI ZEPHYR750, KAWASAKI Zephyr 750, KAWASAKI Zephyr 750
Review
I installed it at the same time as the Utani SP2, so I'm not sure.
I just feel relieved to have a new electrical system, so I'm self-sufficient.
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Fits: KAWASAKI ZEPHYR750, KAWASAKI Zephyr 750, KAWASAKI Zephyr 750
Preventive maintenance before Regulator failure
1999 ZEPHYR750 C6 22 years from manufacture.
I had a feeling that Regulator was about to go bad, so I decided to update it.
I bought this product because I wanted to replace it with the latest model anyway.
The features of this product include...
? Less heat generation compared to the SaIristor type
? Excellent voltage control and stable voltage.
? The mounting position is moved from between the Engine and Tank to the Side cowl, away from the heat source.
It's a good thing... (^^)
When the regulator breaks, the battery and electrical components are punctured and the damage is large.
This is an unassuming component, but very important.
In addition, I think that it is possible to do it in 30 minutes to one hour if you are able to take off and put on the tank because the manual is careful when installing it.
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It's working fine!
I installed it on GB250GB250 CLUBMAN type 3.
I have driven about 1000km and there is no problem of thermal runaway, abnormal voltage etc. It is very good.
Please note that a Bolt is required for installation due to the difference in ground contact surface between the OEM product and the vehicle body.
Manufacturer. Webig's response is good and I am satisfied with Large change.
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Fits: SUZUKI Wolf, SUZUKI RG50, SUZUKI RM50, SUZUKI SEPIA, SUZUKI CM50, SUZUKI GN50, SUZUKI OM50, SUZUKI GS50, SUZUKI Hopper, SUZUKI COLLEDA, SUZUKI GA50, SUZUKI GEMMA, SUZUKI Chance, SUZUKI BIRDIE, SUZUKI CARNA, SUZUKI LETS, YAMAHA YB50, YAMAHA TT-R50, YAMAHA APRIO, SUZUKI Address
Purchased because of full wave rectification
I replaced the NSR50 with the corresponding product because I rectified the full wave.
The size is large compared to the OEM, so I had trouble finding a place to store it, but I put it in the right space and used it.
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I used it to replace a faulty voltage
While driving, all the lights were out of Lamp and the engine did not blow up.
We thought the Regulated Rectifier was faulty and replaced it with this product.
Trouble has been solved and revived splendidly.
(The vehicle is CHALY, but the Engine and Harness are AB27MONKEY)
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Fits: SUZUKI GSX1100S KATANA (KATANA)
It's more than a passing grade considering the price.
At a glance, it looks like the same as the OEM Regulator. The pitch of the mounting hole is the same as OEM.
Wiring was processed into a round gypsy because the part of the 2-pole coupler does not fit with my KATANA (SE).
There is no instruction manual though others have written. Well, I think that there is no obstacle in exchanging it if you can remove the Regulator.
How did it change before and after the exchange?
When Idling (Light ON)
12.0V→ no change at 12.0V
3000RPM (LightON)
13.4V & rarr; 0.6V improvement at 14.2V
It wasn't bad, but it still seemed to be slightly undercharged. Also, when I was cruising on the highway at night, the voltage was 12.0-14.8V and unstable at 5000RPM and up.
However, this may be the effect of the Rust removal inside the Light switch which was done at the same time (voltage is applied only at the time of Light ON for one of the three wires that enter the regulator).
The details of the exchange are posted at the following URL. Please don't worry, it's a diary on this site.
(!) No ⌒https://imp.webike.net/diary/205875/
The durability test is … we're about to get to it.
I can't deny that it's cheap, but it's not a quick glance, and considering the price, it's passable. Go for an introduction to the human pillar!
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Fits: YAMAHA YZF-R6, YAMAHA FZ400, YAMAHA TRX850, YAMAHA SR400, YAMAHA SR500, YAMAHA VENTURE(XVZ1300), YAMAHA VENTURE(XVZ1300), YAMAHA VENTURE(XVZ1300), YAMAHA DRAGSTAR1100, YAMAHA DRAGSTAR1100Classic, YAMAHA DRAGSTAR1100, YAMAHA DRAGSTAR1100, YAMAHA DRAGSTAR400, YAMAHA FZS600FAZER, YAMAHA ROYALSTAR1300, YAMAHA XV1600 R100 ROADSTER, YAMAHA XV1600 R100 ROADSTER, YAMAHA XV1600 R100 ROADSTER, YAMAHA XV1700R100 ROADSTER, YAMAHA XV1900AXV1900
Harness extension is required.
I installed it on the TRX850, but the Harness length was insufficient. But if you put it in the opposite direction of normal installation, it can be reached somehow. I drove about 700km after installation, but there is no problem at present. If there is something, I will add a note.
Honestly, I wish I had bought the OEM Product as normal.
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Cost-effective.
In the case of a 6?selenium or rectifier with only a rectification function, neglecting BatteryMaintenance will cause the electrical system to troubled.
This is a standard item for preventive electrical customization to prevent that from happening.
There are no performance issues, but there seems to be the occasional outlier.
I've used a few of the same ones, but I punctured them once.
Well, it's hard to say if it's an OEM product or a Puncture; (Lol)
The OEMRegulator is surprisingly expensive.
In comparison, the price is better and the performance is comparable.
It's working fine.
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Fits: YAMAHA YZF-R6, YAMAHA FZ400, YAMAHA TRX850, YAMAHA SR400, YAMAHA SR500, YAMAHA VENTURE(XVZ1300), YAMAHA VENTURE(XVZ1300), YAMAHA VENTURE(XVZ1300), YAMAHA DRAGSTAR1100, YAMAHA DRAGSTAR1100Classic, YAMAHA DRAGSTAR1100, YAMAHA DRAGSTAR1100, YAMAHA DRAGSTAR400, YAMAHA FZS600FAZER, YAMAHA ROYALSTAR1300, YAMAHA XV1600 R100 ROADSTER, YAMAHA XV1600 R100 ROADSTER, YAMAHA XV1600 R100 ROADSTER, YAMAHA XV1700R100 ROADSTER, YAMAHA XV1900AXV1900
I'm done after 400km.
I thought it was time to replace it with a new one because of the OEM's ageing and it was 19,000 yen when I checked the OEM.
I checked and the H.Craft products were almost half price, so I bought them.
Even though it was touring in the heat of August, there was nothing special about it, nothing wrong with it.
The lamps are off or the MainFuse is turned off suddenly while driving.
Replacing it with a spare Fuse will cut it off, check Wiring but can't find it on the spot, first Wrecker move
When I came home, I took off the Regulator and found it was Crack and Puncture on the back.
Puncture in just one touring session, and then the OEM was immediately reapplied.
After all, cheap is dangerous, especially for other brand products related to electricity
It was the same as throwing away $8,000.
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It broke down after a year.
I bought this one because the OEM was broken. It was good at first, but broke after a year. It had very little ride time and had only a few miles of use. I don't know if it's simply the quality of this product or if there are other reasons for the breakage of the regulator, but... View detail
![REGULATOR XL 09-17 BLK [2112-0831]](https://img.webike-cdn.net/catalogue/images/35311/21120831_TS.jpg)
Fits: HARLEY-DAVIDSON 1200 Low EFI XLL, HARLEY-DAVIDSON 883 SuperLow XLL, HARLEY-DAVIDSON 883 Custom EFI XLC, HARLEY-DAVIDSON 1200 Custom EFI XLC, HARLEY-DAVIDSON 883 Low EFI XLL, HARLEY-DAVIDSON Forty-Eight XLX, HARLEY-DAVIDSON 1200 Nightster XLN, HARLEY-DAVIDSON Seventy-Two XLV, HARLEY-DAVIDSON Iron 883 XLN
Very good!
I replaced it because I had the following symptoms.
Engine does not work.
Abnormalities in the electrical system
(Starter Relay has been replaced.)
From what I've heard, Harley often breaks the Regulator.
If you feel it's not right, you may want to replace it.
By the way, it's easy to install!
If I had to guess, I'd say a couple of small-sized Tie Wraps will help you get them in place nicely!
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?
The car ran fine after the replacement, but one day when I started it, the BatteryLamp light came on.
When I checked with the tester, the Battery is not receiving power.
Two months and then it breaks down.
I think I've pulled a HaGap.
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Fits: SUZUKI BANDIT400, SUZUKI BANDIT250
inferior goods
Second Type ModelBANDIT regulation wasn't on We-Big for some reason i purchased this from hCraft's website
As a result, the Connector burned out and became a Wrecker on battery after three rides I did
The connector was also rickety and inaccurate
I then purchased the OEM Product and it is perfectly fine
The electrical system is limited to domestic OEM products, it was a good learning experience
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I think it's a real MOSFET
I'm using a single-phase AC-powered motorcycle and I'm getting 14.6V at Idling
It was virtually unchanged when running and the body was only slightly warm However, it is single phase so it was missing one Dummy cap There are no instructions
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Fits: SUZUKI Wolf, SUZUKI RG50, SUZUKI RM50, SUZUKI SEPIA, SUZUKI CM50, SUZUKI GN50, SUZUKI OM50, SUZUKI GS50, SUZUKI Hopper, SUZUKI COLLEDA, SUZUKI GA50, SUZUKI GEMMA, SUZUKI Chance, SUZUKI BIRDIE, SUZUKI CARNA, SUZUKI LETS, YAMAHA YB50, YAMAHA TT-R50, YAMAHA APRIO, SUZUKI Address
It installed with no problems It's a great cosmetic
The OEM Regulator was not malfunctioning, but I had to turn the OEM Parts into a spare Purchased in
The OEM's Regulator was a Plus screw, which was so tightened that it could not penetrate Apply oil and leave it on
I turned the square shaft driver that fits the screw with MONKEY Wrench and removed it
If you point the Wiring of the Regulator to the outside of the vehicle, the Wiring will be handled better by There's a lot of room and it's easy, but the Pipe of the exhaust system is right below Considering the thermal effect on the wiring, the Wiring is mounted towards the Center side of the vehicle
Wiring of the purchased Regulator is four, and the CRM50 OEMRegulator's Wiring is 6 wires (AC:2 wires, vehicle BodyPlus:1 wire, Minus:1 wire, and (CondenserPlus:1 bottle, Minus:1 bottle)
Because each Plus line and the Minus line were conducting, the A 2-pole bullet terminal is attached to the end of the Plus and Minus lines, and the car is used for the Branch connections were made to the body and condenser
Plus and Minus Wiring behind the air intake of the air cleaner case side, extending Wiring a little bit to go through the Quantity:Set. protecting Wiring with Colgate Tube
I tried to place AC Wiring as well, but ACWiring didn't want to extend it It is placed in the space above the air intake (so as not to be crushed by the Seat)
Quantity Wiring:Set, then bolt the Regulator to the OEM mounting position
I measured the voltage after installation and it was 14.5V compared to about 13V for the OEM
Blinkeretc. on Idling is more stable than the OEM
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Fits: HONDA CT110 HUNTER CUBCT110, HONDA APE 50
It's not impossible to use it
I purchased this product due to an electrical problem with my APE 50 As a result, the OEMRegulator had no problems and when I put this product on it, it was rejected There is a problem with the meters Specifically, when both Tachometer and Speedometer are connected, the voltage is not satisfactory Can't get it? It's either that or the Meter doesn't work So maybe it's extra severe, but there's nothing better than OEM parts View detail
It's a terrible product
It breaks easily
And there's no real guarantee
Furthermore, the response is slow, which is a triple threat to Pong Hang
I feel like I've been scammed
I knew that, but this was my own fault for messing with a Brand I'd never heard of
Wholesalers can't be relied upon either
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