Reviews
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I installed them on my wr250x and felt no change from the NGK Iridium plugs. 7000km later the engine stopped at a stop light and would not start. I put the plug back in and the engine started fine. I will never use this plug again. View detail
The Ceramic part was shattered into pieces.
I've been using NGKIridium plugs until now, but since I don't run my engine much, I wanted to reduce the heat value, so I bought these. I was relieved to find that the plugs were compatible from 8 to 1.0, but after 10,000 km, I checked the Ceramic part and found that it was tattered. I'm sure it's a design that can't withstand the heat value of 8, so I think it's better to remove 9-10 CR10EK/CR9EIX compatible. I'm currently testing whether NGKWindshield IRIDIUM with a heat value of 8 can shatter ceramic. View detail
loss of central electrode
It was used with DJEBEL250 XC. I used LGType S before, and was satisfied with it, but I exchanged it for AR12ZS because the ignition system was NORMAL, and I thought that it would be more suitable.
The mileage is 12,000km. NGK or Denso Plug should be replaced earlier of course.
As for the FeeRing, it feels smoother than the Power feeling. The vibration is decreased. I felt that ZType S has less vibration than LGS which has good feeling at high rpm. But it's not better than OEM CR9E. It is only at the beginning that the FeeRing feels good.
I've been having some trouble around Idling lately, and when I disconnected the Plug, Big surprise!
The center electrode was worn about 2mm deeper than the insulator. The insulator itself is also crumbling.
I knew about this product from FACTORY Mameshiba's blog, and I thought this product would last 20,000km like LGType S. LGType S was used more than 10,000km, but the center electrode was not worn out. I was surprised that I could run in such condition.
Overall, the construction is rough, when I used LGType S, I broke Plug once, and there seems to be a thing which is not rigid enough. The surface treatment is also something cheap, or I cannot think very much to the Plug which costs 2,000 Yen per one.
If you use it, I think you should use it after inspecting at 1,000km to 3,000km span. In that case, please be careful enough about Overtorque. The fact that there are so many warnings in the product description column means that trouble is actually happening. If you use this product, please do so at your own risk.
I think I'll go with the RutheniumPlug next.
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I don't think it was a good match.
This is a tuning engine with high compression piston. The ignition is a full course of MSA with Vup16 and Votani SP2.
The carburetor setting is quite thick to prevent knocking.
It seems to have been incompatible with the wide opening acceleration from low throttle because it sometimes lost fire.
It's nice to have a high RPM once you get into the Power band.
For what it's worth, my SR is most compatible with Normal plug at the moment.
I think it is a Plug that shows its true value depending on the compatibility with the vehicle.
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It may not be compatible with Tuning engine…
The quality and texture is good, but I don't think I could get that Performance with my SR.
Wiseco's High-Compression Piston and High Camshaft may not be compatible with the tuning engine.
The ignition system is a full course of 16V boosted by Vup16 and MultiSparked by MSA in addition to a Watani SP2.
Although the ignition system has been well taken care of, there is a symptom of loss of fire at wide opening from low opening.
There is no problem at all when I returned to the Normal plug which I had used so far because it doesn't improve even if I reset it.
My guess is that it is about 2mm longer than the normal plug and the ignition position is on the piston side.
I think that the high compression piston was not a good match because of various conditions such as the flow of the mixture, the ignition position, and the shape of the combustion chamber under compression.
I was able to feel the improvement in the performance of the power band over 5000 rpm, so there were some good points, but unfortunately this time I had to keep it…
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Difficulty in installation (requires tightening control) or
When I turned the Screw of the Plug using an in-vehicle tool, there was no sense of lock and the Screw was broken (photo attached).
It doesn't feel like it was hand-tightened and over-tightened, and I've never had a BRISK Plug before, but I guess I needed to manage the Torque. I couldn't get the broken Screw part out, so it needed to be repaired.
This was not the case with the NGK or DENSO Plug exchange.
It's a shame I never got to use it because it seemed to have a good reputation.
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I would venture to say that he is a scum
I was only able to start the Engine after installing it the first time
The second time around, it didn't take Engine at all, the Gap was too wide for sparks to fly It looks like
For three times the price of the normal plug, this is not
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