Reviews
W1SA Electricity drop resolved.
I installed PowerCoilSP2 on my W1SA 12 years ago, but the engine suddenly stopped due to electrical failure 2 years ago. I replaced the power amp with a new one, and it seems to have more power up after I replaced it with a plug cord from Uotani. View detail
Failure to bring out the performance. 3rd Consideration Impedance inconsistency.
This is my third post on the failure to bring out the performance of SP 2, which GapClearance lost to OEM. I have very little knowledge of electromagnetics, but in layman's terms I have come to the following conclusions.
Impedance mismatch with CDI reduced the primary current and the secondary voltage.
Since the primary Impedance of the Coil is determined by the induct Chest on the primary side of the Coil, I think such an external Coil will significantly affect the running if you are unlucky, whereas the OEM is designed for overall optimization with Igniter+Coil.
Since Indak Chest, which is originally Coil's most Large cut Spec. is calculated from the Impedance matching condition, I think it is safer to choose the OEM with a matching design as an option.
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Very ordinary Plug Cable
It is a simple cable with the same twisted wire type as NGKRacing cable. Therefore, the resistance value is almost zero, which may be a disadvantage in terms of noise. Even if the resistance value is almost zero, the current flows only a few mA, so there is almost no difference in voltage against tens of thousands of volts. So, in the end, I think it is a Cost-oriented Cable, since it is only slightly cheaper than SpiralCarbonCoat's MSDCable.
Cable is a better looking, more elaborate and more affordable product that is reminiscent of high performance.
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Pretty solid RubberBoots.
RubberBoots are 2.5mm thick and thicker. When fitted to the Uotani SP2 Coil, the outer diameter of the mounting portion of the Coil should be between Φ18~Φ20 (Taper) Boots inner diameter is Φ14 to Φ15 for (Taper) It was a little bit difficult to insert the Boots because it was so small. The inner diameter of the Cable is also small at Φ6 and the mating length is a whopping 25mm. The Bracket Caulking Tool is available in two types:IWISS and a vise type, although I am not sure where to find them. It is written for 8.5mm, but it seems to be usable for 7mm as well. View detail
We could not bring out the performance.
Below is the same as another post until about halfway through.
I have since replaced the Plug Cable with a Utani and MSD and measured the Spark Limit Electrode Clearance, so I will post additional results.
The CDI is a Posh Analog/Digital switchable ignition system.
Results,
Coil Utani SP2
(1) Coil Utani Cable Utani CapNGK5kΩ
Gap9.2mm Octopus MeterNoiseLarge
(2) CoilUotani CableNGK RACING+CapNGK5kΩ
Gap9.8mm Octopus MeterNoiseLarge
(3) Coil Utani CableMSD CapMSD without resistor
Gap9.8mm Octopus MeterNoiseLarge
Coil new OEM Cable new OEM Cap new OEM 5kΩ.
Gap 12.2mm! No Taco MeterNoise
Octopus Meter is a DN in Mukawa.
What a surprise, the OEMs were the strongest dunce in the results.
All Uotani had the narrowest Gap, and I expected Noiseless for MSD, but no.
Considering that the spark voltage hardly changes even if the secondary side resistance value changes Large where the secondary side current is only a few mA, I now realize that Gap and Noise are determined almost exclusively by Coil characteristics after all.
I think that the Uotani SP2 is incompatible with my CDI, or maybe the CDI can't bring out the full performance of the Uotani SP2. Well, if the Spark is flying close to 10mm, I can run well enough,
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I'll wait and see a little more.
The CDI is a Posh Analog/Digital switchable ignition system.
The Spark limit with the new OEMIgnition coil, Cable, and Cap was 11mm electrode Gap, while the SP2 with NGKRacing cableCR3 resulted in 10mm.
One YouTuber's verification stated that replacing Cable from NGK to Uotani produced a stronger Blue Spark to see with a wider Gap than when using OEMCoil.
Also, CHATgpt's answer may not be correct, and I don't know much about electromagnetics, but I answered that you can't get the true Spark without optimizing the properties of Coil's Indak Chest and Cable's Material, resistance etc.
Based on the above facts and theoretical answers, I would like to replace Cable with Utani.
The DNTachometer needle from Mukawa, which is used for signal extraction by wrapping around the Cable, is extremely violent. I will change this needle to Cable from Uotani and see how it goes.
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If you want to replace a worn-out Coil
I feel that it has more starting power and strength, which is true to the rumors.
It may just be that I feel that way because I am replacing a weak coil, but if I were to buy an OEM coil, I would rather buy this one because it gives me the feeling that I am touching the Motorcycle.
The work is also easier than you might think. It can be replaced immediately.
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For StickerFor re-covering
I bought it for Re-covering because spII's Sticker is reversed in terms of the position of Plug insertion when I try to install it on MONKEY.
Quantity:1 Set of 2pc. so I put it on the back side.
The price is reasonable, so there is no harm in buying it.
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Cost-effective.
Used for CB50S.
Compared to the OEM CoilBracket, the Utani Coil has a 10mm shorter pitch, so we fastened one side with Bolt and the other side with Tie Wrap.
I am replacing a 40+ year old OEMCoil and Plug cord,
The overall performance was very good in terms of blow off, Torque feel, Idling stability, etc.
It is as if it has been bore up.
My CB50S is still the Point type with Flamag ignition, but I was surprised that I could still feel such a change.
It is more than double the price of a certain company's for 6VCoil, but I think it is quite cost-effective.
Incidentally, we used NGK's LD05F for the plug cap.
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Fixing Units is more difficult.
The wiring is long, so it can be handled with a lot of room to spare, but it is difficult to secure the space to fix the body. View detail
Fits: HONDA CB1100R, HONDA CB750F, HONDA CB1100F, HONDA CB900F
Utani as expected.
It can be set from Normal engine! View detail
Fits: HONDA XR400 Motard, HONDA CB400SS, HONDA FTR223, HONDA SL230, HONDA XR250, HONDA XR250MOTARD
Extremely disappointed
Installed and have started the engine with no problem, unstable RPM after less than 30 seconds, throttle then Misfire ! I have been trying back and forth with the original igniter and SP2 5 times already , the original igniter and cable still work fine after 20 years but SP2 still the same , It doesnt work on 2003 Honda FTR223. What a bad experience. View detail
This is Great!
My machine seems to prefer to choose a slow angle because of the increased efficiency of the intake.
But I wanted to know what standard conditions were like, so I drove about 180 km in standard conditions.
Throw is not good at all. Fuel tone is too thick.
The engine was started with this set to a slow angle and with the fuel mixture set to a lighter setting. The engine fires easily and runs lightly!
Oh, I should have chosen the slow angle from the beginning. There was no need to try the standard.
Idling stabilizes crisply at 900 rpm.
This could be tremendous.
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For installation on Vf1100s
Exclusive parts for Asuotani, for installation on Vf1100s. View detail
Exclusive parts for Asuotani, for installation on Vf1100s.
Exclusive parts for Asuotani, for installation on Vf1100s. View detail
Exclusive parts for Asuotani, for installation on Vf1100s.
Exclusive parts for Asuotani, for installation on Vf1100s. View detail
Expected
First of all, the starting performance is good, and I feel that the throttle response has improved. View detail
Fits: HONDA APE 50, HONDA APE 100
Exciting Power upQuantity:Set
Quick delivery and Bigli! (!)
After installation, I test-drove it and it was quite powerful up!
It doesn't look like I've done much, but I feel like I've done a lot!
Instruction Manual is also available!
I was satisfied with Large!
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Crimp-prepared, easy and reliable.
Used to install the Uotani Full powerKit.
Due to the characteristics of the car, a long cord was needed to change the handling to a large cord.
At first, I tried to crimp the terminals with my Electric Works Pliers using a different cord, but the size of the terminals was too large to crimp properly, leaving me a little uneasy.
This product is pre-crimped with a special tool from the beginning.
One complaint I would raise is the hardness of the 1234 marker.
I understand that it is a bad idea to remove it easily, but it was so hard that I gave up on attaching it.
It was no help either, but the Plug cordCover of the Uotani Body was also very stiff and the installation was Large strange.
Combined with that, I gave up because my finger power had reached its limit (laughs).
The Plug cord itself is satisfactory.
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I thought it would be expensive, but it is not.
I installed it on my FZ750 and was able to experience the effect.
The spark seemed to get stronger, so much so that the carburetor setting had to be changed.
Pickups from low openings become extremely thick, and it feels as if the engine displacement volume has been increased.
The medium opening and above was so great that I became a little hesitant to use it on public roads.
FZ is almost 40 years old, and Ignition coil and CDI are doing reasonably well.
I think you will probably find that changing to a new OEM will make a lot of difference. But to begin with, OEM is no longer available. It is not available.
About 60,000 for a new Ignition coil and CDI. It is not expensive at all.
I wish I had implemented it sooner." I regretted it intensely (sweat).
As for MODE switching and REV switching, we have not used them yet.
The Instruction Manual describes the characteristics of each MODE, but does not go into much detail about what kind of Engine or Setting it is suitable for, so beginners may be a little hesitant to use it.
I would like to study the advance and delay angles, etc. before touching them.
The installation can be handled by referring to the Instruction Manual. However, I had to make some modifications.
One is the orientation of the Ignition coil.
In the Instruction Manual, the plug cord is routed from the rear side (carburetor side), but this is very forceful because the Left Side goes to the harness and the Right Side goes directly to the WaterLine.
So I use Coil as Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) The plug cord was replaced and routed from the front side (head pipe side).
It requires a slightly longer cord, but it fits more neatly that way.
Plug cord is recommended here in Option.
https://www.webike.net/sd/21955852/
The connector is already crimped. The bracket of the Uotani is special and quite large, so it is not compatible with general Electric Works Pliers.
It is not exactly impossible, but it is difficult to crimp it exactly and neatly.
Next is the with Connector Harness that connects Coil to Harness, but Included Parts:has a very short Harness.
It is not impossible to attach, but it is not good for mental health with Tension on Harness.
Therefore, we purchased the Option Harness separately and installed it here.
https://www.webike.net/sd/23863361/
This is recommended because it has a longer Harness and more room for maneuvering. *I would rather have this as Included Parts:.
ControllerBody is mounted on the Right Side of the vehicle body.
This one has a long mounting harness, so it can be mounted on either the Left Side or Right Side.
For now, it is tentatively fastened with Tie Wrap inside the RightSide cowl.
In general, Large satisfied. This price for this peace of mind and performance. It is a great value at all!
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