DOREMI COLLECTION Motorcycle Switches / Harnesses Reviews

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DOREMI COLLECTION Switches / Harnesses Clear all

DOREMI COLLECTION

31 Jul 2019

First Model Type Main Harness

Fits: KAWASAKI ZEPHYR750

Japan User(translated)

3/5

The 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness exchange was a Large oddity

6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness Exchange is Instruction The Manual states Single-vehicle BodyManufacturer issued Service Manual as a basic and reliable We do it better than a PRO Mechanic with the knowledge and skills to do it It's not a good idea So when you install it by yourself, please do so at your own risk As for me, there is no official Kawasaki Motorcycle shop near me, so I talked to my favorite shop once I was told that it would be tough to do the installation myself (This is because I was worried about short ignition from the deterioration over time because a part of the connector was burnt Moreover, I will leave the contents of this exchange as data in this Preview so that I do not forget the contents of this exchange.) I'm sure there are some incorrect statements, so I hope you can see this as a moderate reference
These are Harness replacement parts for C1 to C3 If you want to refurbish after C4, you must get the Maintenance Manual It is dangerous to confirm only with the original due to the subtle change in wiring diagram Especially the one who has not done it, because the ignition accident by Seat is a mistake of wiring and the ignition accident by Seat becomes the origin !!!

advantage
LeftHand and LightHandS/W could be connected as it is
Tachometer/Speedometer/Neutral/Light No Connector changes
No change in Junction Box/IC Igniter's Connector
It is a bundle of Wiring, so the protection Tape is also firmed up as a protection of Wiring It was a safe product
In almost the same colors of the original 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness Wiring It was usable as it was, with some color differences (Because of the mistake of 3 wirings of Front Blinker, the blinking became early I replaced it with a difference Wiring and returned to normal blinking :)
This is an out-of-print item that is not produced by the manufacturer and is out of print, used 6v monkey/ If you buy a GORILLA Main Harness, the time lapse is the same, so I knew it would degrade over time I'm afraid, I'm handling it because Wiring is too time consuming to create from scratch by myself Good product
After replacing the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, the Engine's start will be The car started up more consistently and quickly than before the changeover, and I also pulled the chalk and adjusted it in the summer, but this is not the case The adjustment time has been reduced
(Speed to RPM is unchanged My motorcycle averages about 3700 Engine rpm at 80 km/h It is)
It is set before the exchange of 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness since it is a carburetor, it is breathing funny after the replacement I may need to adjust the carburetor again (It's just a feeling I've felt.)
This is a sensory experience, but when I'm on a motorcycle, I'm in a good state of mind I think you can sense whether it's a bad condition or not After the replacement, the electrical system is now in a better condition than I was expecting when I was driving the motorcycle It gave me a sense of security about driving

Disadvantage (It's a change, not a flaw.)
When removing or setting up 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness Small holes behind the MainLight, this one is one at a time Wiring The connector can be removed and the Wiring can be pulled out The space between the front rooms of the GEAR v Letter is too narrow (Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) ). forcing the front chamber of the carburetor to be removed when the Air Fruter's enclosure is removed There is no choice but to remove or insert the Connector, so if the wire is broken or the Connector is damaged Caution
The Instruction Manual should be shrunk to a slightly larger size than A4 paper The Wiring diagram which is in the housing is described by the letter where housing is exchanged only by this If it is not exchanged for various reasons, it is not a motorcycle The people who are desperate to have a working system are troubled by the fact that they can't move I couldn't imagine what kind of situation it would be in if I didn't try it
Purchase and install Housing of No2 H4 separately (Gi Positive is still intact, and another Wiring out of H4Housing with Gi Hoj When a white surface product is released in the light system, it can be replaced with a new one as it is It is) I don't use LED wiring because I like Halogen
The 6 V MONKEY/GORILLA Main is located near the root of the Light to Handlebar Harnesses that extend beyond the Left to adjust the length of the Harnesses are protected by Tape only It is thin because it seems to be damaged by the friction between the Harness and the car body when operating the Handlebar Rubber cover is wrapped around it to protect it
No transparent protection cover for the Connector in the Regulator/LectiFireYa
Connects to the No3Alternator and the Rectifier/ Firewire3 since the pole is the same yellow color wire, when you plug it into the 3-pole connector, where do you put it? I don't know if you're going to connect (It's in the Corkter for 4-pole from the beginning, which makes it even more confusing!) The tester was used to check the current flow to the actual object installed (Alternator's 3-pole sold to Home Center for future things (Replaced with the 250 Connector that's in there)
Because the No4 Starter Relay is out of print, the Bullet I managed to unplug the terminal and port it (Because it is a Small Small Small Bullet Terminal, the ConnectorBody Beware of possible damage to the) If it's damaged, you can still connect it with the flat Bullet Terminal as it is I'm worried that it will come off
The No5 Tail's Connector is a 250 model which is sold at home center etc Housing3-poleQuantity:If you want to use it as it is, you can replace it with the Set, because the claw part was in the opposite position If you can't do it, please do it Also check the internal terminals for corrosion on the porting!)
No6 Kawasaki-specific specs, so the shape of the bullet terminal is different It is different in shape from the Bullet Terminal sold at the home center, and is a special Buy the Bullet Terminal separately or use Blinker for all Bullet It depends on whether you want to replace the terminal This time (FG-SS, Bullet Terminal Female, cylinder diameter 3mm, length 21mm) We have replaced it with
There is no resin cover for Neutral S/W, using the HeatTube that I had, the whole thing is I made a hole on one side and dealt with it And when fixing the cover of Engine with Screw, this Wiring was caught and the wire was broken Make sure you don't do this before you install it carefully, once it's in the same position as it was before it was removed It hit the gap of the cover of the Engine and broke the wiring Because the position of connectors and so on are different from the original, I thought it is the same work as usual I've done that

I didn't put the picture on this page, but the size of the battery's Plus+ is a little smaller It was a Gihosi terminal (If you look it up on Net, it's for bonders and it's a Hit.) It looks and feels like the same shape, so you wouldn't think it was a different Bullet Terminal at all during production I don't know, so if you can, I'd like to make sure that you get the Bullet Terminal and the other terminals installed before you receive the product It's a good idea to install the connector on the original bike and test it out with a temporary assembly It will take some time, but it's a good idea to take some photos and put them on your current bike I think the work would be easier if you were looking at things by comparing them to

All of the cutting wirings that have been replaced with new housing as much as possible have been soldered or have been cut I tried to reduce the electrical loss by eliminating the contacts as much as possible, but I was afraid of degradation and damage to the parts, so I tried to make each part as small as possible The spec. is set to Bullet Terminal for easy replacement View detail