Reviews
Exquisite even if the Position is fixed. (^^)
Originally, it was designed to fit 400 (or 250 depending on the model year). Separate Handle Kit from Active that fits.
However, this chassis had a Bikers Separate Handle Kit installed from the time of purchase, but it was wobbly even when the fixed bolt was tightened, and I wanted to set the position a little lower, so I purchased the kit even though it was not applicable.
The front fork diameter is correct for now, so it is easily installed, but the part where the brake hose comes out from the OEMMASTER is cowl (^^;)
So, subtly move the Brake lever up.
Still, when the Handlebar is cut to full Left in the Hose section, there is a Stress in the Hose (^^;;)
So, for now, we are going to replace it with a NISSIN radipon to make it easier to maneuver the Brake. (^^)
The NISSIN radipon is 17mm and OEM same etc., and I was able to install the Throttle Wire and Brake Switch without any hindrance.
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Just the right height and angle
To be honest, I've never liked the Handlebar replacement.
I was skeptical.
The moment I installed it and straddled it
I was thrilled because the Position is exactly what I expected.
I run Circuit in my commuter vehicle.
It's not Touring either.
This will be an impresion for Circuit.
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Fits: KAWASAKI Ninja250, KAWASAKI Ninja250(ABS), KAWASAKI Ninja250R
Precautions for installation
Mounted on NINJA2 Helmet 50RR.
The Handlebar Clamp loosened when running even when tightened at the specified Torque, so Screw lock is a must.
I had no problems with Base.
The Extension Harness, Brake hose, and Clutch Cable must be set to "Long" because it is very tight if the Switch box, Brake hose, and Clutch Cable are not changed from the OEM model. Therefore, it is necessary to make the extension harness, brake hose, and clutch cable long.
You should probably look at about 20,000 just to buy the other parts, and most importantly, Inner Weight is sold separately, and since the OEMBar End is no longer available, you will have to buy it separately.
Well, it does not matter if you are working with the company's Switch box and High Solo.
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Fits: KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-25R, KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-25R SE, KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-4R SE, KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-4RR
Texture and Position are good
It is almost the same as NORMAL, but Radial master can be attached and the texture is good. View detail
If you want moderation … don't miss it!
When I installed the Rear Sets on my '14 MC41 CBR250RSecond Type Model, I bought it because I was concerned about the relative height of the Handlebar.
Because it is hard to become too low for my use, I compared it with HURRICANE's Separate handleType1 as a purchase comparison.
…But I couldn't find the data of the standard down amount etc. of HURRICANE, and the texture was more to my liking here, so I chose Active.
The product arrived with a good texture as expected, and the mounting bolts are flush with the OEMHandlebar and the Quantity:It comes with a Spacer to set.
Only the One Side is packed in a temporary assembled state, but the Spring pin is in Quantity:Since it is not set, you need to Rose it once.
Also, I don't particularly care for it, so I won't do anything to lower my rating, but part of the package opening was torn and the VinylThailand that the product is fastened to was removed in two places, giving me the impression that the package had been opened once.
The instruction manual is very detailed and even includes the fastening torque.
The Handlebar Switch positioning hole is also provided and the bar Single Body can be rotated so you can position the Switch to your liking.
If you don't tighten the bolts evenly etc., it will be One Side tight and One Side loose.
The installation itself is simple, but a little technical (Or monstrous?) I have raised the Kill item to A little considering the incidental work such as the removal of the OEM Bar End and the removal of the Grip which requires a little hang.
Also, for your reference, I pulled out the Spacer and built it 10mm down, but if you have replaced the Clutch lever with Other Brand Product's adjustable one in late MC41. (I'm made by Kanaya). If you assemble each lever in the standard position, the base of the clutch lever adjustment will interfere with the inner cowl, so the aperture angle cannot be adjusted. (When safe clearance with Tank is considered, it becomes almost 110 degrees of the smallest angle in the range of about 1 or 2 scales in the aperture angle adjustment scale.)
I can't say that this is the best one because I have my own personal preference. It is not possible to say "this is the best!", but the smallness of the aperture angle that I was concerned about is not particularly bothered, and the droop angle is about 4 degrees lower than the OEM, so I can feel a little "whoa, it went down" without damaging the comfort in the long touring of OEM.
The wrist angle and position is more comfortable than the OEM Handlebar, even when driving with a little more effort and lean-in position.
The Handlebar width is the same as the OEM position because it feels right to me.
If you want to be more aggressive, a lower handlebar will be easier to attack, but for me, it is a very good product because it allows me to enjoy the winding more than OEM without sacrificing the comfort of touring.
But there is also Demerit.
The product itself is very light weight, so if you build it without Handlebar Weight, you will have a very small vibration while driving.
When you turn it to a certain extent, your hand becomes numb and it is not possible to tour, so it is necessary to countermeasure it by inserting Inner Weight of the company or installing heavy Bar End, or both.
On the other hand, you can adjust the balance of operability and comfort by yourself.
I have decided to use Inner Weight only.
The only other thing I'd like to add is that the OEMHandlebar on the …Top Bridge makes it slightly more visible, so if there's paint peeling or something, it'll make me …A little sad.
A little more expensive than the Made by HURRICANE, but I want to lower the Handlebar! But I want to use it for touring too, so I don't want to lean too far forward.
If you think it's too hard to lean forward, you can put Spacer in it and raise it up to OEM 11mm down at the Bar End.
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Fits: KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-25R, KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-25R SE, KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-4R SE, KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-4RR
Increased freedom of forward leaning posture
It is not that I was dissatisfied with the position, but I wanted to make an aggressive setting because it is a sports type motorbike.
Both the hanging angle and the aperture are tight, but the range of change is not too large, and there is a front offset, so it does not become an unreasonable posture.
When you lean forward and sit deeply in the Seat, the close proximity of the Handlebar makes it easier for your hands to relax and gives you more freedom.
It's hard to say, because I think this area has a different feeling depending on the individual's physique and riding style, but...
One thing that was unclear in the product description was about the height adjustment function. 25R has no Spacer.
I wouldn't go so far as to say it's unkind. (I think it's more of a polite description of the product overall) As for the height Spacer, I think it's hard to read in that sentence (Lol)
And, since the introductory article clearly stated that the height was adjustable...
When I inquired, they responded with a sincere response, including an Instruction Manual as an attachment!
From here on, it's all about self-responsibility, so for your information...
I put Spacer between Top Bridge and Handlebar to lower the height. 10mm Spacer at the most narrow angle does not interfere with Tank. I think the switch box might touch the top bridge. Of course, there is no gap to grip the Handlebar.
I think 10mm lowering is not suitable for street driving, but I hope it will be a reference for something in the future.
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Fits: KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-25R, KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-25R SE, KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-4R SE, KAWASAKI Ninja ZX-4RR
For solving radipon interference.
I bought it more to solve the problem of the brembo MASTER interfering with the Cowl and Meter than to change the Position, and the purpose was achieved.
Various kinds of installation
The Top Bridge needed a 36mm Socket to remove and install, Torque was 80N for the Center nut and 25N for the Clamp.
The Top Bridge and Lever will be hanging in the air on the way, so use Towels to protect the body.
If the front wheel is on the ground when installing the top bridge, it will not go in. Some people tap or shake the bridge to get it in, but this will mess up the alignment of the fork.
The inner diameter of the Handlebar is 16mm, so I used Inner Weight for 13-17 inner diameter.
The Bar End is a combination of an M8×40 Bolt and a Posh Rubber Bush in order to use the OEM handlebar.M8 BoltSpec.
The opening angle is varied within the elliptical locating hole, so it must be either the largest or the smallest Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) I think it's hard to match the
Quality and texture
The cutting and anodized finish is also good.
・Position
The amount of change is small, so it doesn't change dramatically, and since it comes to the front, it might be rather easy.
・Others
I'm glad that the 15RCS solved the interference and allowed me to change the height of the Lever freely.
Product Description. Height (with Spacer):No height change function The height cannot be changed though it is understood if it reads well, and Package was written as if there was Spacer by using it. Because it is confusing, it is better not to write "height adjustment" or "Spacer", isn't it?
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The best combination with Rear Sets
I bought this as a trial because the OEM posiion didn't feel right.
I installed it on the car body that has Babyface's Rear Sets, but the position came to fit very well. Because the hole is opened, special processing is not necessary, and I think that the degree of difficulty of installation is also low.
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