Reviews
Relax with Stainless Steel
20° for new Crab installation.
Aluminum is the only choice for Stainless because it cracks.
It is surprisingly shiny, so I would like something with a matte texture from Hairlineetc.
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JA55 Left hand Brake for mounting
JA55 Left hand Brake purchased for installation
At first, I assembled it with 45°, but I felt the Hose was compressed, so I replaced it with 20°,
It was installed with natural handling.
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JA55 Left hand Brake for mounting
JA55 Left hand Brake purchased for installation
It was settled at 45° from Master Cylinder just fine.
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Steady making
I bought this one because I thought Stainless would be more durable than AluminumMaterial.
The product is well made and leak-free.
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No amateur Brake hose for homebrew
This is a fitting part for the brake system, but unlike the general banjo adapter, it is a part that is directly attached to the stainless mesh brake hose (#3).
In addition to cutting the hose, shaping the end faces, and forming the wires, it is necessary to accurately insert the internal parts called Olive to prevent the socket from falling out.
The level of work difficulty is quite high.
Failure to do so will result in the Brake slipping out and dying, so it is painful unless you understand the structure and are quite confident in your detailed work, or you have experience in making Brake hoses many times.
If the hose is assembled in a way that is easy to assemble, the effect of the hose reinforced with stainless mesh wire will be lost, and you will end up with a disappointing hose that is better than a rubber hose...but only a touch better than a rubber hose.
The angle cannot be adjusted after assembly as is the case with the Banjo adapter type, so it is necessary to consider the direction and angle from the time of assembly.
It takes a lot of hang to put it together well, and there are very few amateurs who can do it well.
Fortunately, I have experience in the past in producing 200 hose kits a day for a certain company, so I am very familiar with this fitting process and can freely assemble them in 5mm increments.
The Banjo adapter type would have eliminated such difficulties, but why bother using the troublesome Olive type?
It's a Type that I think lighter and Simpler is Cooler.
It's a world of complete self-congratulation, where the loud, anodized, lumpy, hardened Hose hates Large.
The part number indicates that it is an authorized Goodridge product.
Banjo made by Goodridge is thinner than those made by other companies, which is good for a stylish finish.
This Straight banjo is so common that there is nothing special to say about it.
This is the MAJOR shape when it comes to Brake Parts.
The 900SL we used this time has a rear caliper with a floating mount, and the OEM used a 90°banjo to rotate the hose backward and halfway around the axle shaft to make the suspension strokes large and sturdy.
That is the best way to be sure, but at any rate, Parenthesis is bad.
The long hose is especially noticeable when viewed from behind at a right angle, where Motorcycle looks the most parenthesis.
The OEM arrangement of the Hose crawling along the upper surface of the Swing Arm was abandoned in favor of a new arrangement that runs along the Torque rod to the Swing Arm pivot.
Then it is best to take the Rear caliper straight out facing forward, so that is what the Straight banjo is for.
Aluminum is a very moving part of the material, so safety is a priority.:Stainless Steel。
I really like the Chromate-treated iron one (5092-03P), but unfortunately they don't carry it....
The straight banjo covers the top opening of the caliper, so the pad cannot be replaced unless the caliper is removed, but this is not a problem since it will be removed for cleaning anyway.
(It would be easier to work with the air bleed in front of it, but it is not a problem because the air can only be removed by removing it and inserting a disc prepared separately.
Parts have been around for decades, and the performance is unquestionable.
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No amateur Brake hose for homebrew
This is a fitting part for the brake system, but unlike the general banjo adapter, it is a part that is directly attached to the stainless mesh brake hose (#3).
In addition to cutting the hose, shaping the end faces, and forming the wires, it is necessary to accurately insert the internal parts called Olive to prevent the socket from falling out.
The level of work difficulty is quite high.
Failure to do so will result in the Brake slipping out and dying, so it is painful unless you understand the structure and are quite confident in your detailed work, or you have experience in making Brake hoses many times.
If the hose is assembled in a way that is easy to assemble, the effect of the hose reinforced with stainless mesh wire will be lost, and you will end up with a disappointing hose that is better than a rubber hose...but only a touch better than a rubber hose.
The angle cannot be adjusted after assembly as is the case with the Banjo adapter type, so it is necessary to consider the direction and angle from the time of assembly.
It takes a lot of hang to put it together well, and there are very few amateurs who can do it well.
Fortunately, I have experience in the past in producing 200 hose kits a day for a certain company, so I am very familiar with this fitting process and can freely assemble them in 5mm increments.
The Banjo adapter type would have eliminated such difficulties, but why bother using the troublesome Olive type?
It's a Type that I think lighter and Simpler is Cooler.
It's a world of complete self-congratulation, where the loud, anodized, lumpy, hardened Hose hates Large.
The part number indicates that it is an authorized Goodridge product.
Banjo made by Goodridge is thinner than those made by other companies, which is good for a stylish finish.
This 45-degree banjo is a bit of an oddity, perhaps because it is rarely used by people, and its price is very high!
The common Straight banjo or 20°banjo can be purchased for almost half the price, so they are not usually used.
However, it is sometimes necessary to use a 45°banjo in order to get the Hose firmly through the targeted area (Stainless Steel Mesh Hose is susceptible to bending).
This time, it is used on the Master Cylinder side of the Front brake.
Since we are using a racing master, a mechanical stop lamp switch is not installed, so we decided to use a bremboOEM banjo bolt type hydraulic stop lamp switch.
I dislike hydraulic stop lamp switches, but I dislike the mechanical stop lamp switches on the market even more (they have a lot of small parts cluttering up the master cylinder and are not easy to maintain), so I used the Banjo type.
The hose is located right below the bracket, but I wanted to avoid interference with the Cowl Bracket and drop the hose into the trident at the shortest possible distance, so I decided to use the most expensive one.
The T-shape Hose with intermediate joints, and the method of fixing it to the three sides at the junction point, so it does not move even if the Handlebar is cut or Brake is applied... then Material:I had a feeling it could be Aluminum, but Material:Aluminum can crack the socket due to stress, so wire the safety and Material:Stainless Steel.
Parts have been around for decades, and the performance is unquestionable.
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No amateur Brake hose for homebrew
This is a fitting part for the brake system, but unlike the general banjo adapter, it is a part that is directly attached to the stainless mesh brake hose (#3).
In addition to cutting the hose, shaping the end faces, and forming the wires, it is necessary to accurately insert the internal parts called Olive to prevent the socket from falling out.
The level of work difficulty is quite high.
Failure to do so will result in the Brake slipping out and dying, so it is painful unless you understand the structure and are quite confident in your detailed work, or you have experience in making Brake hoses many times.
If the hose is assembled in a way that is easy to assemble, the effect of the hose reinforced with stainless mesh wire will be lost, and you will end up with a disappointing hose that is better than a rubber hose...but only a touch better than a rubber hose.
The angle cannot be adjusted after assembly as is the case with the Banjo adapter type, so it is necessary to consider the direction and angle from the time of assembly.
It takes a lot of hang to put it together well, and there are very few amateurs who can do it well.
Fortunately, I have experience in the past in producing 200 hose kits a day for a certain company, so I am very familiar with this fitting process and can freely assemble them in 5mm increments.
The Banjo adapter type would have eliminated such difficulties, but why bother using the troublesome Olive type?
It's a Type that I think lighter and Simpler is Cooler.
It's a world of complete self-congratulation, where the loud, anodized, lumpy, hardened Hose hates Large.
The part number indicates that it is an authorized Goodridge product.
Banjo made by Goodridge is thinner than those made by other companies, which is good for a stylish finish.
In such a situation, this 90-degreesBanjo is quite different.
The long Pipe is very bad parenthesis with long and beyounding....
Well, this is a problem that comes with the Adapter type as long as 90-degreesBanjo is used.
The reason why I am using such a bad parenthesis to make a difficult Hose is because I want to use a banjo bolt type hydraulic stop lamp switch on the Master Cylinder side of the Rear Brake.
So Straight or angled Fitting shape cannot be chosen and must inevitably be Banjo style.
Furthermore, air-cooled 2-valve systems such as the DUCATI 900SS have the Master Cylinder in an exquisitely odd position and the extraction position, and the Hose must be rotated with the GRU at the swing arm pivot.
Many people use a straight out from the Master Cylinder, but it is no good, because the Sus Stroke will apply force in the direction of folding the banjo.
The 90-degreesBanjo is the most comfortable for the hose, considering the swing arm pivot is halfway around the swing arm pivot.
Since it is such a long part and the suspension strokes are subject to a lot of force, the material is prone to fatigue damage.:Aluminum is a bit scary.
That's why Material:Stainless Steel.
Parts have been around for decades, and the performance is unquestionable.
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For grom jc92
I chose Stainless Steel because it was on sale at a lower price and I was told by an acquaintance that Aluminum can break.
This time we have Grom JC92 for Rear with 20 degrees on MASTER side and Straight on Caliper. Caliper is the new Crab.
Since we did the same pull as the OEM, it was easy to follow the Swing Arm.
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