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YSS

10 Apr 2021

PD Valve

Fits: Others

Japanese Webike user

4/5

Only Universal requires processing and adjustments, but it works!

I changed the spring to a DRC spring to get rid of the OEM's soft, uncontrolled, sloppy legs, but
It's a bit easier to apply the load than before, but it's still floppy due to the lack of pressure side damping.
That's why we decided to install this product, which can adjust the pressure side damping force.

When installing, it is necessary to select the size and processing according to the car model because it is a universal product.
I'll talk about the process in the second half of the impressions, but the results of the test run after installation were generally as expected.

First of all, when operating at low speed on a relatively clean road surface, unlike NORMAL, the pressure side damping force is applied firmly, so that the damping force is not applied to the road surface.
The power to press the front tire to the ground does not escape and the grip and ground contact feeling are improved.
When the Gap is passed, etc., the internal Valve will open to release the pressure.
The feeling of being bounced around like I felt with the NORMAL has decreased and the Front tire feels more secure.
As a result, the front tire, which used to move sluggishly and restlessly when driving on unpaved uneven terrain, has been replaced by the
The bike now follows the road without any extra movement, allowing me to increase my pace without worry.
During the test run, I made a mistake in the initial settings and tightened the pre-road one more turn.
Even so, it was much more stable than NORMAL on a little dirt road in the neighborhood, maybe a little harder in the back.

This product changes only the pressure side while the elongation side remains dependent on the NORMALDamperROD Orifice.
In the case of DamperROD, the elongation side is basically against the reaction force of the spring, so the range of the stroke speed is narrow and the
On the other hand, the pressure side has to deal with various inputs from the road surface, from slow to sudden and large inputs.
In order to prevent the car from locking up under sudden input, NORMAL pressure damping is almost not effective in normal driving range.
This causes the spring to contract more than necessary in response to road surface input, and then it repeatedly tries to extend due to the rebound.
By making sure the compression damping is effective, Spring will not contract more than necessary, and the rebound of extension will be reduced.
As a result, a sloppy foot that moves up and down more than necessary is changed to a foot that grasps the road surface moistly.
The characteristics of a real cartridge can be made more finely, and in the first place, the extension side is completely different.
Performance-wise, it's not going to be Cartlidge Fork no matter how hard you try.
Compared to the NORMAL DamperROD, I think it's a good product that can do a large performance improvement at low cost.

In this case, I installed it on a KLX230, and the following modifications were required

DamperROD's Orifice Expansion Large (Cancellation of NORMAL Orifice)
Cut and trim the Spring for the entire length of the Valve (for vehicles that do not use the SP collar).
DamperROD I.D. and BodyQuantity:Production of collars to fill the diameter difference of Set diameter

The above is now required.

? I think that there is an idea that it is OK to ignore it because it is almost not damped originally, but
When the Release valve releases the pressure at the time of sudden input such as landing of jump, the pressure is released.
In order to prevent a sudden increase in pressure at the end, the maximum Large value is limited by the NORMAL orifice diameter.
The diameter and number of holes are selected to ensure almost the same cross-sectional area as that of the DamperROD bore.
After drilling the hole with a ball machine, I clamped it on the lathe and applied paper to get the BALI.
I think you can get away with Hand drill, iron file & hand paper if you try hard enough.
? After cutting with a sander for the required number of turns, sear it with a burner to make the coil at the end adhere.
This process will anneal the spring, so we only fire the smallest length necessary.
It would probably be better to re-temper them, but I don't think it would actually cause much of a problem.
Finally, you can put a flat grinding wheel on the Grinder to make the seat.
? As for the color, I own a tabletop lathe, so I can make a color of this level quickly, but
Normally, this is the most important part of the Neck.
This time, I made it not from Aluminum or Brass, but from a resinous material (strong enough to be used in GEAR etc.) that contains reinforced Glass fiber.
It is lightly press-fitted to the ValveBody to prevent it from coming off, and is sized to the DamperROD to prevent it from rattling.
This makes it easier to attach and detach when setting, and I chose resin so that I don't have to shave off the press fit tolerance severely.

When this product is installed by personal DIY, I think that the color production of No.3 will be the most Neck, but
If you have a gold processing shop in your neighborhood, you might be able to get a lot of requests from individuals these days.

Finally, my hope for the manufacturer is that, although the setting will be refined in the future
I'm wondering why there is no option for different rates on the spring of the pressure side Release valve.
The Rae Stick product I have installed on another vehicle came with three different Rate Springs.
When releasing the damping force at sudden input, the pressure value at the beginning of releasing can be set in Pre-road, but the pressure value at the end of releasing can be set in
After that, the release method (the rise angle of the pressure curve) can only be set by changing the spring rate.
Of course it depends on the future setting, but I think it would be good if there is a Rate difference in Option. View detail

SPORTS LINE Rear twin shock [ESeries] E302

MONO LINE Rear Single Shock [MX Series] MX366

MONO LINE Rear Single Shock [MZ Series] MZ366

YSS

05 Feb 2020

MONO LINE Rear Single Shock [MX Series] MX366

Fits: SUZUKI RGV250 (Gamma)

Japan User(translated)

4/5

If you're having trouble with the mounting shocks, don't hesitate to buy them

Product Name
YSS YSS:MONO LINE Rear Single Shock [MX Series] MX366

Item Number
Item Number:117-3313006

Vehicles
GSX-R400R 1989 GK73A

Number of man-hours
About 3.5 hours

Why did you choose this product?
The GSX-R400R I'm riding (henceforth Gispeke.) The ShockBody attached to
It's installed in factory condition in '89, only the Preload Adjuster can be tweaked
I was riding with a hanging Shock

Touring and playing in the mountains, I didn't feel any shortage
Tire pressure adjustment, pre-road changes, Fork oilSetting, etc
I was setting up for my favorite ride
If you run on CircuitMain, you will be able to turn around while cornering, or you can use the Shock Because I couldn't get rid of the cowardly feeling of
This time, I decided to change to the external Shock, which allows you to adjust the damping etc

As a potential purchase
・NITRON
・TFXSuspension
・YSS

The three companies were candidates for
The reason for this is that the shock is compatible with the RG250 and has been diverted to the Jispeke To do so

It's not known, but the '89 Gispeke and the '89 Gamma have the same ShockBody It will be (There is a slight difference in overall length, though.)
Therefore, the installation of the ShockBody can be done without any modification
So, I used the Brand which can be adjusted with Gamma's Shock

I chose it
Honestly, I was going to buy NITRON, but at the last minute I decided to go with YSS
The reason for this is that you need to buy it on the premise that it is used for diversion, so you need to buy it on the premise that it is hanging in the first place and the setting is not right some
Partly because we wanted to try out as many settings for as little cost as possible

YSS can buy Spring for Shock for around 10,000 yen, so you can get

And if the spring rate isn't right for you, you can buy it right away and change it
The ShockBody is assembled in Japan, so the assembly accuracy is very high itself is expensive

And since the price is less than $70,000 for the ability to do so many things, I decided to go with the YSS for cosmetic reasons

It's Shock, so it's only a balance between Damper and Spring
If you can make it to the setting requested by Rider, the brand does not matter

Impressions after using it
I did feel a bit stiff when I was driving the car on a leveler
I softened the pre-road and damping and drove the car on a trial basis
I am now able to use it well up to Level, which is not a problem

It's a re-note that we're still working on setting up
I've improved my turning and stability while cornering
I was able to adjust the damping to get rid of the waistline feeling as well
It seems to be able to make the best shock by doing repeated tests such as Circuit

If you want to move up, NITRON is a bit of a flicker
That's something I'd like to consider when I run out of YSS and still don't have enough

You can use OrderSeat to create any kind of shock for NITRON, so when the YSS is exhausted, you can use it to create a new one would like to make the best Shock in NITRON based on the Data of YSS

▼ Attention
It's just an imprecation for reference
Ride height and posture may change at the time of installation, so be sure to adjust the ride height before driving You should go
Spring replacement is a task that requires special tools and knowledge 。 Amateurs should refrain from doing this View detail

Twin Shock Spring Free length/200mm/Spring inner diameter/46mm

MONO LINE Rear Mono Shock [MG Series] MG366 CBR250RR (MC51) Exclusive Model

YSS

23 Jun 2019

Fork Upgrade Kit

Fits: SUZUKI GSX-R150

Japan User(translated)

4/5

Very satisfied

First of all, we are installing it on the 125, not the GSX-R150 This is an in-play on that

GSX-R125 has a thin Fork, and if you focus on the stiffness of the Front It's just not dependable

It may be unnecessary if the use is limited to city driving, but Suzuki has seriously And the GSX-R125, a long awaited release (including GSX-R150) Considering this, the main battleground is still the mountain pass if it is a public road
Or, you can be Circuit

I'm completely in RacerSpec. so it's an in-play on Circuit But I honestly thought it was definitely a part that should be installed

The first thing to be noted is its outstanding stability when breaking
The viscosity of Fork oil specified by YSS is the equivalent of 30, so it's not too hard before you start running ? I thought, but I followed the manufacturer's specification first, but I still thought I'm keenly aware that there's a good reason for the number 30 designation

The front of the car is stable even with hard braking 。

The primary turn is front-driven and stable, allowing machine control to be performed at will It is

Oil Viscosity No. 30 is so moist that you can forget that it's also very firm

Before I installed it, the surface of the front tire felt smooth no matter how hard I pushed it (In terms of time, it's in the middle or lower time range of the course.) Once installed, it melted down well and the entire Tire was well loaded

You can also adjust the front pre-road, and in addition to that, you can adjust the rear Quantity of suspension:If the set is also decided, it will definitely become a large weapon

If you use it on public roads, as described earlier, if it's limited to city driving, you can show off Performance! It might not be, but if it's a mountain pass, it's definitely a weapon and will be fun for Corner

View detail