Reviews
Too Large to use for Scooter
[How is it used?
I bought this for Scooter Oilfor replacement.
When changing oil in the center stand of PCX125, it is difficult because there is no space to place a saucer.
Was the one you received as per Image?
I bought a Large size, but it was larger than I expected.
The texture was very good, and it looked like it would last a long time.
How was your experience with it?
With the Center Stand in place, I was able to change the oil, but the space under the Scooter and the size of the Oil Pan were too large, and it felt cramped and difficult to do so.
I am still glad I bought it, but I think I should have bought the One sizeSmallest one, because it is also very expensive.
[Points to note]
How did it compare to other products?
Other items that would be helpful
Installation points and hang/Items to buy together/ Opinions and requests to the Manufacturer
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You can put it on yourself.
It was easy to install, although the bolt needed to be temporarily fixed. View detail
Fits: KAWASAKI Z900RS CAFE, KAWASAKI Z900RS, KAWASAKI Z900RS CAFE, KAWASAKI Z900RS
measures to deal with a shortage of labor (labour)
Design, texture is very good, but the pain is painful ?? may not be very effective…. View detail
hmm
I'd bought the CB250R before because I'd heard it had a bad footprint.
I'm going to put it on.
Quality is good, almost OEM Product quality.
Almost indistinguishable from an OEM sheet.
The seat feels a little thinner, and the corners of the seat have been removed.
However, I don't think we should expect a Large width footprint improvement with this seat.
It's just a little bit. It's just a little bit. I feel like I have better footing.
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Fits: HONDA GROM, HONDA ANF125innova, HONDA WAVE125R, HONDA WAVE125S, HONDA WAVE125i, HONDA MONKEY125
Well, it is normal.
I had not replaced it for maybe 20,000~30,000 km and was running and the Engine warning light came on.
Well, let's replace it! And when I went to start working on it, it was gone. 。。。。
I don't know much about the condition of the Engine, even if it is a new Plug, but it is a consumable item and should probably be replaced on a regular basis.
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It picks up Noise.
I thought I knew what ShiftTiming was even without the Tachometer.
The re-acceleration is inevitably slow in the SCENE that requires climbing the board.
I purchased it to keep track of RPMs.
While retrofitted, the position and Size are moderate, and the high brightness makes it easier to read than the OEM Speedometer.
However, the Clutch Cable runs through the Shift Up Indicator position, so it is not visible when the driver is riding. (I guess it depends on your body shape …)
Also, as is common with retrofitted tachometers, the rpm may rise or fall by around 500 rpm during cruising.
The performance is sufficient for me as I only needed to know the approximate number of revolutions.
I was able to correct my riding style because I was SHIFT UP at lower rpm than I expected.
The installation is more difficult because the tank needs to be lowered.
The illustrated Instruction Manual is clear and helpful and manageable.
However, although not a problem with this product, we had two problems during installation.
1. OEM Speedometer BracketMounting Bolt stuck at an angle.
It is fixed by biting into the Blinker Bracket and Meter Bracket.
The Bolt on the Meter Bracket was stuck at an angle, making it difficult to replace the Bolt.
(It's mainly Honda's fault since it's due to individual differences in the car body.)
2. occupies the power supply for Attachment (+ voltage shortage may occur)
The power supply for the Attachment provided on the Brake Side is used.
Already incompatible with USB power supply and Cigar socket.
The same thing happens when I make the connections as per the Instruction Manual, but
While the Cell is spinning, it seems to run out of voltage and reboots (re-opens).
The Harness length is long enough to reach the bottom of the Seat even through the bottom of the Tank.
I modified the Wiring to take power directly from Battery and it improved.
The voltage display function compares the voltage at the time of wiring according to the Instruction Manual with the voltage at the buffer.
The voltage seems to be slightly lower in the former. (It is not the fault of this product, but the spec. on the car body side.)
The following products were used for the Wiring change.
KIJIMA:ACC Branch Harness Kit]
https://www.webike.net/sd/21317023/
DAYTONA:Attachment Power Supply Unit D-UNITPlus]
https://www.webike.net/sd/24232600/
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They say it's good if it lasts 5 years.
After five years, it broke. When I removed it, the yellow-colored luminous body was shattered and the base was burnt to brown. The light suddenly faded and became like a miniature light bulb and disappeared. I was surprised because I happened to be watching it. It would have been extremely scary if I had been driving at night.
When I bought it, the yellow colored tip was not square and the corners looked peeled off in places. I asked the ManufacturerStaff if the Large tip was sturdy, but they said it was fine, so I had it installed.
Well, it would be impossible because it looks like the LED light-emitting base part is burnt out.
As for the product review, at 6000k.
It is not brighter than OEM, but the color is White, so some scenes actually look darker. It is still not as good as the most powerful HeadlightHID, but it looks better than the OEM Halogen when compared to rural roads and other places without streetlights. 。
However, in urban, city, suburban, and highway areas where there are some lights, the white LEDs are covered by the lights and it is difficult to tell whether the light is illuminating or not.
If the Type is one light on low and two lights on high, I would recommend changing the color temperature with low high.
This time I did the work myself, but when I first bought it, I was told that it would wait 20,000 hours or 10 years if it didn't break, but in fact it was 5 years, so I felt like I lost money, but that seems to be the way it is.
It is good that they are cheaper now because of the New Model, but I wish they would have stopped reducing the warranty to 2 years if they continue to claim that they can be used for a long time.
Now, how to do the work
This time, I performed the work myself, copying the way SphereLight's ManufacturerStaff actually did it on my Motorcycle.
As mentioned in the postscript, the way this Rubber fits (How to put it out?) If this is the case, the heat sink portion will be buried in the rubber, so I am concerned about whether the heat dissipation will be large enough to withstand the heat.
Turn the round cover of the OEM Headlight unit counterclockwise about 1 cm to remove it.
Remove the valve spring and remove the light valve.
Remove the Attachment from the Valve of the product and insert the removed Attachment into the place where the Headlight Bulb was inserted, with the four notches facing backward, and fasten it with the Spring.
At this point, you should install the Valve once in the Attachment and remember the feeling of pushing and turning it to install.
Attach the supplied CouplerConnector to the product as described in B of the Instruction Manual.
Connectors on the body side and the Light side are connected.
...At this point, conduct a lighting test.
The space inside the Headlight unit is quite large when you put your finger inside, so leave about 15cm of Wiring and put all Connectors and Controllers inside the Unit. (I put almost all of them in Space under Unit)
Note that if the wiring connected to the light is about 10 cm, the light valve will stick when the cover is attached and will not be able to be pierced.
If the controller rattles inside the headlight unit, use the Tie Band to hold the controller in place. I don't do it.
Once this is done, it is time to install the rubber cover, which is the most difficult part.
It takes several hours at worst, and although it is easy to install if the Rubber is heated considerably, it is not recommended because deformation is a concern.
The difficulty level increases because everything is put into the Unit.
Push the outer frame of the Rubber cover into the Unit.
At that time, the side that is folded should be toward the rear of the vehicle.
When you push it in, there are three indentations where the OEM's round cover fits.
Make sure three Folds are outside the Unit, then install the LED Bulb.
(Note that if you push the Rubber as hard as you can, only one Fold will come out backward.)
(The outer frame of the rubber cover of the type after the warranty period of 2 years is larger than that of the type before that, so it should be installed in a larger size.)
LED Bulb is perpendicular to the ground when installed.:Pair (for Left and Right) to be facing the
If the remaining wiring seems long, push it in a little at a time.
The above work was completed without making any cuts.
ManufacturerStaff had done this and it was a work procedure that worked fine.
However, if the rubber is pushed out this far, the heat sink will be buried in the rubber, so I wonder if the heat dissipation is Large sturdy. I wonder,
I had done it this way before, so I copied it as it was.
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I just wanted to put this on...
Taichi's jacket RSJ726 Monster All Season Parka has elbow and knee pads, but damage to the chest, as indicated by the number two mortality rate after the head, Chest protector However, I didn't like the weight of the separate model (TRV079 Lynx Separate Chest Protector), and I didn't like the hassle of attaching and detaching the integrated model (TRV063 TECCELL Chest Protector). I didn't like the weight of the TRV079 Lynx Separate Chest Protector (TRV079 Lynx Separate Chest Protector), and I didn't like the hassle of attaching and removing the integrated model (TRV063 TECCELL Chest Protector), and the split model (TRV067 TECCELL Separate Chest Protector) seemed the best.
While the above three products are CE StandardLevel2, this is a lower grade. Level 1 compliant So, although it may be less robust, I decided to try this Balance because the softer one will definitely be more comfortable in driving conditions anyway.
It is exactly the same as 3Snap buttonType in Thailand. Pushing at the time of impact and instant hardening! and Fit your body with instant hardening soft fit! I believe it is a good sense of balance, if you believe in that point!
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I don't know if it will fit, but I bought it anyway.
I don't know if it will fit, but I bought it anyway. View detail
Good for loose Touring.
In the chilly days of late fall and early spring, it is a good choice because it is moderately thick and does not transmit cold easily.
It is made of Cotton and has a loose collar and sleeves, so I guess it is strictly for winter use.
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For use with the 3RW1 that is not the appropriate model year (but requires modification).
Compared to NORMAL, the large size of the footrest surface is obvious.
It is stable, but its thorns are sharp and long, so please use it with hardy boots that can shave off the Sole.
When used in 3RW, the Right Side must be considerably reduced to be able to be overthrown.
And even if it is installed after much effort, the rattling is so great and the return in collapsible mode is so weak that further modification is required.
If you are concerned about the details or if the modification is troublesome, you can install the expensive Bolt On. "ARE" is probably a good idea
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Fits: HONDA MONKEY125, HONDA DAX125, HONDA CT125CT110 HUNTER CUB
There's no way out of air.
I did it with a good amount of detergent and plenty of Kiribuki, but I couldn't get the air bubbles out. View detail
Fits: KAWASAKI Z1100GP, YAMAHA YZF-R1M, YAMAHA YZF-R1, HONDA X11, HONDA VRX400 R100 ROADSTER, HONDA STEED600, HONDA STEED400, HONDA JADE, HONDA HORNET250, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA XJR400R, YAMAHA XJR400, YAMAHA XJR400, YAMAHA VIRAGO400, YAMAHA VIRAGO250(XV250), YAMAHA V-MAX 1200, YAMAHA TRX850, YAMAHA YZF750SP, HONDA CBR250RR (MC22), HONDA CBR250R (MC17/19)
Sensor
I received a package today. The sensor is the one I would need. BUT!!! The little sensor was put in a box 15 times larger and stuffed with a bunch of air bags. As a result, I paid an additional 28 euros for Delivery, on top of the 15 I paid at the beginning. And the sensor is worth €18! -------------------------------------------------- -------- I received a package today. The sensor is the one I would need. AIM!!! The little sensor was put in a box 15 times larger and stuffed with a bunch of air bags. As a result, I paid an additional 28 euros for Delivery, on top of the 15 I paid at the beginning. And the sensor is worth €18! Powered by Google Translator View detail
Fits: KAWASAKI Z900RS, KAWASAKI Z900RSCAFE, KAWASAKI Z900RS, KAWASAKI Z900RSCAFE
I don't feel much.
I don't feel it much. I don't feel a huge change in the gear shift. I feel like the gear stops significantly when I go up from 1st to 2nd. View detail
I'm not that happy for the price.
It's a little bit longer. There's a dress effect where the body looks a little bigger, but there's no significant change in appearance. I'm not that happy for the price. View detail
Fits: KAWASAKI Z900RS CAFE, KAWASAKI Z900RS, KAWASAKI Z900RS CAFE, KAWASAKI Z900RS
I'm not that happy for the price.
It's one of the parts for mounting the long tail. I think it can also be used for the genuine tail. It feels a little lighter compared to the genuine tail. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA TRACER9 GT, YAMAHA FAZER8, HONDA VTR1000SP-1, HONDA CB400SF, HONDA CB400SB, HONDA CB1100EX, HONDA CB1100EX E Package, HONDA CB1100BLACK STYLE, HONDA CB1100, SUZUKI BANDIT1250, KAWASAKI VULCAN S, SUZUKI BANDIT1250 S, SUZUKI BANDIT1250 F, SUZUKI BANDIT1200, SUZUKI BANDIT1200 S, SUZUKI SV1000 S, SUZUKI V-STROM1000, SUZUKI SV1000, SUZUKI KATANA, SUZUKI GSX-S750
Kagoshima Touring for 1,600 km
Saganoseki→Aso→Takachiho→Cape Sata→Nichinan and Kyushu Touring 1600 km or so, no problem! View detail
Fits: HONDA cross-cub 110, HONDA cross-cub, HONDA PCX150, HONDA PCX150, HONDA PCX150, HONDA PCX HYBRID, HONDA PCX, HONDA PCX, HONDA PCX, HONDA PCX, HONDA LEAD125, HONDA LEAD125, HONDA LEAD125, HONDA Dio110, HONDA Dio110, HONDA Dio110, HONDA ZOOMER-X, HONDA LEAD110 EX, HONDA ZOOMER-X, HONDA LEAD110 EX
Easy!
It can be used for both navi110 and PCX150. It is cheap and not bad. I guess it's not so bad, but it's not that bad. View detail
Fits: HONDA Monkey (MONKEY), HONDA Monkey (MONKEY), HONDA Monkey (MONKEY), HONDA Dio ZX (DIO), HONDA Dio SR (DIO), HONDA Dio SR (DIO), HONDA Dio (DIO), HONDA Dio (DIO), HONDA Dio (DIO), HONDA Ape(100)(APE), HONDA Dio (DIO), HONDA Ape(100)(APE), HONDA Ape(100) (APE), HONDA Ape SPECIAL (APESPECIAL Knife), HONDA Ape Deluxe(100) (APEDELUXE), HONDA Ape Deluxe(APEDELUXE) (50), HONDA Ape (50)(APE), HONDA Ape (APE)(50), HONDA Ape Deluxe (50) (APEDELUXE), SUZUKI Lets4G (LETS Forge)
Normal Mirror for mopeds.
ThirdMotorcycle's Today Mirror snapped off and I had to replace it. Very easy to read! Reasonably priced! … Too bad the Week Point is a little cheaply made…. "luxury" This is not for those who are looking for the best Mirror for their feet, but it is the best Mirror to wear on a foot scooter! View detail
Somewhat difficult to install
Screws could not pass through and the hole was widened with a 6.5mm Drill for Gold.
Also, USB port and voltmeter are Quantity:The set is great, but you need to cut 5mm off both ends of the middle collar and the bracket to install it on the CRF250 body. The above mentioned work was necessary when assembling the Headlight unit, which is not shown in the YouTube video. The light is very bright and I am satisfied with it.
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