Reviews
Fits: YAMAHA SR400
Neither good nor bad
After driving about 20,000 km in 3 years since replacing the external suspension, I felt that it was worn out, so I replaced the external suspension with an OEM Rear Suspension instead of overhauling it.
Motorcycle Rear Suspension
Rear Suspension (Rear shock) improves stability and maneuverability during riding by mainly absorbing the road surface gap. 。 To briefly introduce the structure, there is a Spring around a component called Damper, and the Damper absorbs (dampens) the impact received by the Spring, so that the Spring does not jump around forever.
[Merit of Motorcycle Rear Suspension
The impact of the impact when running can be reduced.
→ Better ride quality.
Damage to the vehicle body is also reduced. 。
In addition, suspension keeps the tire in place on the road surface by absorbing shock. 。
As a result, stable Grip can be ensured.
Of course, the Rear Suspension also has a standard life span, or replacement or overhaul.
The life of the Rear Suspension. For Motorcycle
The timings that should be considered for overhaul of the suspension are generally about 20,000km or about 2 years.
What kind of symptoms do you often hear about Rear Suspension going bad?
Downs Symptoms of Motorcycle
...Curve has become difficult to turn.
The height of the car seems to have been lowered.
... while running "Giggle." The noise is called "noise".
This may occur when symptoms such as the following appear. In such a case, it is Overhaul replacement regardless of the distance or the number of years.
I thought about replacing it because I felt the lack of convergence of the road surface Gap and the strange noise with my Case.
When it comes to replacement, I think we have two choices:external and OEM.
The characteristics of each are
Outside the Company Overhaul is possible. Expensive. Rides crisp and clear.
[OEM] The basic overhaul is not possible (but it may be cheaper to buy one). （It is hard because it is designed for tandem and loading. It is more suited for touring than for sports. Durability is higher than external ones.
I went back to OEM because the outside is Overspecifications. Durability and price were the deciding factors.
The length of normal suspension = 320mm.
Replacement is easy.
(1) Stand Center Stand.
↓
Remove one side at a time and replace one side at a time.
↓
(3) Apply Grease to the stop points of each of the Frame and Swing Arm.
after replacement
I think it's much better than the external one that was damaged.
OEM is not bad, if you use it in Touring Main.
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Bolt
The Right Side fixed bolt is replaced with a new one.
It seems to have been changed to the alternative part number:64508-ML7-010, but the tightening part is still ? shaped.
I would prefer a ?-tightened shape.
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Fits: YAMAHA SR400
You should pay attention to them from time to time.
Kick start, synonymous with SR400.
The Kick Arm that I have been using for many years still seems to work, but I feel fatigue (Gold fatigue), and if it breaks in the future, I will no longer be able to apply Engine, so I renewed it.
Kick start
‥To start Motorcycle and other Engines using Kick starter.
What is Motorcycle's Kick starter? ]
The electricity from the battery is used to rotate the Cell Motor, and the engine is started by the power of the Cell Motor. Cell start In contrast, the Rider's own kicking force is used to start the Engine. Kick start." is 。
The benefits of Kick start.
No burden on the battery.
Cell start motorcycles use electricity from the battery when starting, but kick start motorcycles do not require electricity when starting. Therefore, the battery is not burdened, and battery buildup can be suppressed. In addition, even if the battery does run up, the Kick start motorcycle can start the engine manually, which can be helpful in an emergency.
However, if the engine displacement volume is a CUB or something like that, there is also a demerit for Kick start.
[Demerit]
If the force to step down on the Kick pedal at the start is insufficient, not only does the Kick start fail, but the Kick pedal may jump up in the opposite direction with great force. The so-called Ketin." Ya Kickback." This phenomenon is called "ketchin". When kettling occurs, some Risks are hit hard on the shin or other parts of the body by the Kick pedal that has bounced up, causing them to faint in agony.
Ketching Prevention
There are two ways to prevent kettling:using Decompression or not using Decompression.
． How to use Decompression."
The KICK pedal is then lowered vigorously and the engine is applied.
． How to do it without Decompression.
After returning the Kick pedal completely to the top, step down the Kick pedal to the bottom again to start the engine. 。 This is the basic way to hang an Engine using Kick starter.
Kick pedal and Kick Arm.
There are some precautions to be taken when installing the product.
This is the relationship with the Pedal position.
If you are replacing the footpeg with an external footpeg, the Arm itself has less clearance, so there will be interference→at that time, please return to the OEM footpeg.
The OEM footpeg is too large and interferes with the exhaust system. →Kick Arm is OEM.
Replacement is not difficult, since all you have to do is remove the bolt attached to the base of the Kick Arm and replace it.
However, the place where the Arm fits is geared, so be sure to insert it properly aligned with the gears.
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Fits: YAMAHA SR400
Blinker's blinking malfunction is one of the first things to suspect.
I have been doing a lot of maintenance work, but I have not touched the electrical system much at all, so I decided to take this opportunity to do maintenance work.
Blinker stopped blinking and,
It vibrates a lot, and the bulb often goes out, and sometimes the battery is weak, but I suspected the blinker relay, since it had just been renewed.
What is Blinker relay?
Blinker relay is a component that operates the blinking of the direction indicator installed in cars and motorcycles. 。 Also known as a "flasher relay," it enables blinking at regular intervals by switching an electrical signal on and off.
Blinker relay seems to have different usage and characteristics between external and OEM.
Blinker relay outside the company
[OEMBlinker relay
The Blinker relay of the ManufacturerOEM is designed to match the power consumption of the OEM Halogen bulb, and when the Blinker Valve is turned off, it will detect the change in power consumption and will flash Polished and High flasher to inform the user. The Blinker relay is designed to match the power consumption of Halogen bulbs in OEMs.
→In my case, I don't intend to change to LED, and I prefer to keep Halogen, so I will replace the OEMBlinker relay as it is.
What are the symptoms of a bad Blinker relay? What is a Flasher relay (Blinker relay)? Blinker blinks at regular intervals." Parts. 。 When the flasher relay fails, The Blinker is still on. Blinker won't stick." Symptoms such as
And if you leave it as it is, it will break.
When it breaks.
The wire is disconnected and the Headlight and Blinker do not turn on when the Switch is turned on.
By the way, in my case.
Flashes normally when Idling 。
When the Engine is revved up, it sometimes flashes irregularly. 。
Flashes irregularly at higher RPMs than at constant RPMs. 。
→I'll replace it while it's still irregular...it would be troublesome if it gets disconnected...(laughs)
How to exchange
Remove ?Seat.
↓
The Blinker relay is a black square Matchbox-like component with a small Elastic band on the bottom of the Seat.
↓
(3) Coupler removes the old Blinker relay and simply inserts the new Blinker relay.
〜After replacement
Incorrect blinking has been resolved.
I was relieved that the wire was not disconnected (laughs).
In such cases, it may be a good idea to replace the Blinker relay first, because the parts cost is low and the work is simple and can be done on an individual Level.
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Fits: YAMAHA PW50 (PW50B1), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50D1), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50E1), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50F1), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50G2), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50H2), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50J2), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50K2), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50L2), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50M2), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50W), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50X), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50Y), YAMAHA PW50
PW50
yamaha PW50Carburetor.
Replaced because it was no longer Idling.
Other Brand Products are also available on the Net for about 3000 yen, but they received mixed reviews.
OEM Product.
I am glad that it was Timing with a 5% discount on OEM Product at WeBig.
There are several model numbers of CarburetorAssembly for each year of the long-lived model,
Note that the price is also RoseRose.
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Circlip for CHOINORI front sprocket
[How is it used?
It will be a circlip to fix the front sprocket of SUZUKI/CHOINORI.
Was the one you received as per Image?
It was just as Image.
Circlip replaced an existing item that was not known when it was replaced due to wear and tear.
How was your experience with it?
Since it is not performance-related, there is no particular change before or after the replacement.
However, it is effective in that it eliminates the risk of cracking.
[Points to note]
There are no areas that require special attention.
How did it compare to other products?
There is no Other Brand Productetc., so this one, OEM Product, is required.
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It is also more durable and easier to ride.
This time, we are going to Restore the suspension of SR400.
I had installed an external Spring, but I don't need that much for SR400, so I installed an OEM Spring as well as Overhaul.
Motorcycle suspension is an image of Large body rear suspension...what is a front fork?
Front fork is important for motorcycles.
‥ Front fork is an important part for safe motorcycle operation. 。
Action
The front fork is the suspension of the front and is used to absorb shocks and improve steering performance.
It absorbs shock so that it does not shake when it picks up Gap on the road surface, suppresses the Front from going out of control (losing balance) during Corner ring, and also affects Breaking.
Reduced sinking behavior when front wheel Brake is applied.
→ Front area is responsible for the balance of the vehicle body. 。
In the case of large bodies, the front of the fork will fail due to the deterioration of the oil filled in the fork, called fork oil, but if the spring deteriorates and becomes worn out....
[Defects in Spring's Downs].
▲ Somewhat fluffy.
▲When I go over a step, the shaking doesn't stop.
When ▲Brake is applied, it suddenly sinks, and when Release is applied, it suddenly returns.
Front is out of control during ▲Corner.
▲Front goes out of control at high speed. 。
→In my case, I felt the shaking when I went over a bump and the jiggle of the Corner ring, so I considered replacing it.
Some people say that as long as the front oil is removed and renewed, it is not necessary to replace the springs, but springs are also consumables, so they cannot be completely replaced.
[Spring's lifespan].
Most vehicles with a mileage (depending on how they are driven) of over 40,000 km are beyond the limit of use. 。 If the front end is sunken (you can't tell unless you put the same car side by side), or if it bottoms out when fully braked, it may be time to replace it.
I've changed to an external spring, but it feels like it's worn out, and when I grip the front brake it sinks a lot, so I'm not sure if that's the limit of the replacement.
Incidentally, the front fork oil seemed to have a life span of 10,000 to 20,000 km.
After much research, it seems that OEMSpring and external Spring are unlikely to benefit from Spring itself, so we decided to use OEM.
The exchange method is
How to exchange ~SR400~
(1) Jack-up the lower Frame of Engine.
If it is with Center Stand, it is Center Stand.
↓
Remove front brake caliper, front tire, and front fender. 。
↓
Remove the top cover of the Handlebar and Fork.
↓
(4) Before removing the Fork, loosen the Top bolt using a high Nut instead of a Hexagonal.
↓
(5) Buy a 17mm high Nut and loosen it immediately.
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(6) Remove the Fork.
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(7) Inner and Outer removal.
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(8) Allen Bolt is loosened by Impact.
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(9) Inner is a long screw with a double nut to stop it from turning.
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? Oil is absorbed by Oil absorbent material and Spring, Color, and Washer are taken out.
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Remove the oil seal (11).
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Stroke the ?Tube with new oil and clean the inside. 。
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?Upside down for a while to drain Oil. 。
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Push the Inner Tube all the way in and fill it with a small amount of oil, stroke it, and let it stand for a few minutes to purge the air.
* Put in a new Spring at this time.
↓
In the case of ?SR400, the oil volume is 176ml, and the oil level is 199mm, so measure the oil volume appropriately, and then insert the oil.
↓
?Seal is hard to get into, so substitute PVC Pipe or something similar to get it in.
↓
Return in the order of ??→?.
〜After replacement
◎Calm sinking during Brake.
◎I could feel the bumps on the road surface absorbing the impact. 。
◎Corner ring is also stable 。
◎It is not as crisp as the outside of the company, but it is easier to ride.
I thought it would be better to ask the store if possible.
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Fits: YAMAHA SR400
If you think about it in the long term, we recommend replacement.
I was looking at ESTRELLA's Fuel Cock, and I was wondering about SR400 too.
I'm not seeing any glitches at this point, but I'm concerned that there may be some in the near future.
This one is also dirty near the Fuel Cock, I could see Gasoline seepage, so let's replace it!
I feel like I should just replace the internal Packing, but I decided to replace it still wanting to continue to ride.
Like ESTRELLA, SR is also a negative pressure carburetor.
Fuel Cock (Negative Pressure Cook)
...Cook is a Fuel Cock that uses air pressure.
The Motorcycle is divided into Parts called Fuel Tank (Fuel Tank) and Fuel Cock (Fuel Cock) that connects the Carburetor.
Cook's Place.
The parts called "Fuel Cock" are attached to the bottom of the fuel tank.
Applies to vehicles equipped with a Reserve Fuel Tank.
Mainly Carburetor cars.
How Fuel Cock works.
It is generated when the engine is running and the air mixture is inhaled. "Negative pressure" Gasoline flows through the open valve by
Simply put, if Engine is on.
→Gasoline flows.
When the Engine stops
The flow of →Gasoline stops.
[If the Fuel Cock malfunctions...
Fuel supply is not normal, causing Engine malfunction or fuel leakage.
→Idling unstable, frequent stalls, Gasoline smell.
...Gasoline leaks.
→ Flammability hazard.
Fuel Cock failure can occur over a long period of time due to deterioration. The following are some of the causes.
Cause
Rust in Fuel Tank, Gasoline mixed with rust passes through Cook →Damaged parts in Cook 。
Internal packing damage due to age-related deterioration.
*Packing is mainly Material:Deterioration occurs due to constant contact with Rubber and Gasoline.
I think this is also the case for SR400.
A simple explanation is that Cook = faucet.
You know how sometimes you find water leaking even though you've tightened it properly?
Material inside:It leaks because the RubberPacking has deteriorated and is no longer sealed.
Although the replacement is not large, there are many steps involved.
How to Replace Motorcycle Fuel Cock ~SR400~
(1) Empty the fuel tank (Gasoline). 。
If you see Rust in the tank, remove the rust. Soak the tank in rust remover (Sun Pole can be substituted) and leave it to soak overnight.
↓
(2) Turn off Fuel Cock.
↓
Pull out the Fuel Hose and the Negative Pressure Hose.
Please check that there are no cracks in the hose.
↓
Place the Fuel Tank from (4) on a step Ball or soft place.
↓
(5) Replace the Fuel CockAssy.
↓
? ?→? Return in this order to complete the process.
〜After replacement
◎Of course, the Gasoline blotch near Cook is gone.
◎Improved a little Gasoline smell.
If you want to keep the cost as low as possible, you can replace only the packing with a large sturdy one, but if it is an old car body, it is better to replace it with a new one.
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For CB250F
I searched for this in my country Water pump 19521KEA000 but I can't find it. Finally I bought it from webike. It is genuine. Very good packaging. Thanks to the webike team. View detail
For CB250F
I searched for this in my country L.Water 19503KEA000 but I can't find it. Finally I bought it from webike. It is genuine. Very good packaging. Thanks to the webike team. View detail
For CB250F
R.Water 19502KEA000 I searched for this in my country but I can't find it. Finally I bought it from webike. It is genuine. Very good packaging. Thanks to the webike team. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA JOG (CG50A), YAMAHA JOG (CG50B), YAMAHA JOG (CY50D), YAMAHA JOG (CY50E), YAMAHA JOG (CY50F), YAMAHA JOG (CY50G), YAMAHA JOG (CY50H), YAMAHA JOG (CY50J), YAMAHA JOG (CY50K), YAMAHA JOG (CY50L), YAMAHA JOG (CY50M), YAMAHA JOG (CY50N), YAMAHA RAZZ (SH50A), YAMAHA RAZZ (SH50B), YAMAHA SH50MA, YAMAHA ZUMA (CW50TA), YAMAHA ZUMA (YW50AL), YAMAHA ZUMA (YW50P), YAMAHA ZUMA (YW50R), YAMAHA ZUMA (YW50S)
TZr250R (3XV) Diversion to Oil line of
YamahaTZr250R (3XV) The oil line was diverted to the 2-stroke oil line of the
The OEM oil line hose has been discontinued, and I have been looking for a good oil resistant hose, but have been unable to find a good one, and there is not much information on the Internet.
Then it occurred to me. If it's from a vehicle with a high production count, wouldn't it still be available?" So I did some searching and came across this page.
I used the one I received and found it to be usable without any problems with the Size feel, length, etc.
Since these are OEM Parts, the texture itself is not a problem at all.
The oil line for Yamaha cars is basically the 90445- series, and there may or may not be a difference in the inner diameter. If there is no leakage, the discharge volume itself will not change that much, so it can be used. (Please point out if I'm wrong.)
I was curious later and did some research and found that many of the cars are still quite available for purchase.
At a quick glance, I wonder if 90445-05M07 is the most cost-effective since it is L700. I think so.
In any case, I'm glad to have solved my problem of what to do with the discontinued product for a few hundred dollars.
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Fits: KAWASAKI 250TR
Check with Carburetor Vehicles if it is old.
ESTRELLA's Restore is still going on (laughs).
I'm not seeing any glitches at this point, but I'm concerned that there may be some in the near future.
I've been thinking about it a lot again.
The area around the Fuel Cock is dirty, i.e., I saw seepage of Gasoline, so I replaced it. 。
It may be due to the deterioration of internal packing or something, but we decided it would be wise to replace it. 。
Fuel Cock (Negative Pressure Cook)
...Motorcycle Negative Pressure Cook refers to a Fuel Cock that uses air pressure (negative pressure). 。 Motorcycles have Parts called Fuel Cock that connect the Fuel Tank (Fuel Tank) to the Carburetor (Fuel Cock).
Where's Cook on this thing?
The parts called "Fuel Cock" are attached to the bottom of the fuel tank.
Applicable to vehicles with *ESTRELLA or Reserve (reserve fuel) Tank. Mainly Carburetor vehicles.
How Fuel Cock works.
‥ Negative pressure type Fuel Cock is generated when air (properly mixed with Gasoline) is sucked in when the Engine is running. "Negative pressure" The valves are opened and Gasoline flows through them by
Simply put, Gasoline flows when the Engine is running, and when the Engine stops, Gasoline flow stops.
[If the Fuel Cock malfunctions...
. Fuel supply will not be normal, causing Engine malfunction or fuel leakage.
→Idling unstable, frequent stalls, Gasoline smell.
Why is the Fuel Cock broken?
Cause
Rust in Fuel Tank, Gasoline mixed with rust passes through Cook →Damaged parts in Cook 。
Internal packing damage due to age-related deterioration.
*Packing is mainly Material:Deterioration occurs due to constant contact with Rubber and Gasoline.
→ Here's my case.
A simple image would be a water faucet, which is leaking even though it is supposed to be shut off properly, right?
This is similarly true for the Material inside:It's because RubberPacking is deteriorating.
Replacing the cook itself is not difficult, but there is a lot of work involved.
How to Replace Motorcycle Fuel Cock ~ESTRELLA~.
(1) Empty the fuel tank (Gasoline). 。
If you see Rust in the tank, remove the rust. Soak the tank in rust remover (Sun Pole can be substituted) and leave it to soak overnight.
↓
Turn the Fuel Cock to OFF.
↓
Pull out the Fuel Hose and the Negative Pressure Hose.
↓
(4) Remove the Motorcycle Seat and Side cover.
It can be done even if * attached, but if it is a Side cover with Gasoline, there is a risk of the paint peeling off or the Seat deteriorating.
↓
(5) Remove the bolt securing the tank and lower the tank.
↓
?Replace the Fuel CockAssy.
↓
? ?→? Return in this order to complete the process.
If you want to keep the cost as low as possible, you can replace only the packing with a large sturdy one, but if it is an old car body, it is better to replace it with a new one.
OEM is recommended over external if possible. Due to durability issues.
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Fits: SUZUKI Gixxer, SUZUKI Zixer(150)
Air filter installation is quite large
As an air filter, it is a very ordinary 3, but 5 is because it is affordable and very ordinary.
The replacement procedure for the pre-2020 model can be found by Googling, but the replacement procedure for the post-2020 Gixxer 150 cannot be found by Googling, so I will describe it here.
(1) Remove the in-hemp palm clamps from the harness and rubber sheet to facilitate work.
The top two are easy, and the Right Side is by turning over the Rubber sheet. The problem is the yellow color of the lower side.
?Insert and remove the Driver's shaft from the depression where it enters the Tail cover; the Screw will fall completely out and down. It is wise to pinch it with the Tweezers before it is about to come off. the ground without getting caught in the Cover or anything else when it falls out.
When the screws on the front side cannot be accessed by shifting the harness, the screws on the side cover can be removed by removing the screws, pulling them slightly toward the front, and making space for the driver to be inserted.
(5) Remove and replace the collapsed packing on the lid side and the box side as it looks like a drill, and place the air filter in the box.:Set feeling and not hooked, so I put it down.
(6) Attach the two screws with yellow color circle on the bottom of the lid side, and carefully insert the lid from the front to prevent the screws from falling off. If you have a super strong magnet driver, you may be able to put it on afterwards and insert it through the narrow gap, but it seems to be very difficult.
(7) Pattern and Quantity:Since it is not a mechanism that can be set, the screw holes must be aligned and the lid and box must be set so that the front and rear quantities are well aligned.:Pair (for Left and Right) While moving the screws to the upper side, check the position of the Screw holes and temporarily fix the upper Screw. Before and after thisQuantity:Pair (for Left and Right) You might have a pretty good hunch that shaking it up to
(8) Align the screws on the lower side with the screw holes, and insert the screwdriver through the slit as you did when you removed the screw.
Tighten the screws on the side cover and put back the inHemp palmock to finish the work.
If you do this work often, you may get used to it and be able to do it in about 20 minutes, but if you fall into a screw or some other strange place and get stuck, it is Large strange to take it out. I think it took me about an hour to do Small because I had to be very careful.
Once I do it once, I might be able to make it a little smoother next time, but it's hard to do anyway.
It is a good Element to remove it rather often, but you may not want to do this step unless you are in a desperate situation.
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No doubt, but be careful installing it.
Purchased for k6. As soon as I replaced it, the symptoms improved, but I made a mistake in the cord routing and it interfered with the GEAR and broke the wire. I had to buy another one because I couldn't fix it even after reconnecting the wires. Be careful about amateur maintenance! View detail
Genuine Suzuki Oil Pan Gasket for GSX-R1000
This bike had a service not so long ago but the mechanic failed to seat the oil pan gasket correctly and in turn, this started leaking along the left side. Obviously, this is not a good situation so a new oil pan gasket was needed in a hurry. Finding the right gasket was not hard for this GSX-R1000 as there are a lot of these bikes around and need OEM parts for servicing etc. I checked Suzuki schematics and found the right one no problem. Webike already had this is stock so I would not have to wait for them to get it. The price was really good and better than my local Suzuki dealership could match. With a couple of other gaskets for this bike, I had them all shipped toghether and by EMS as they just get the delivery to me fast. It took like 5 days from being shipped for this to arrive with me. The gaskets were all nocely kept flat so not to distort them. They all came in the standard Suzuki packaging too. This gasket covers a large area but there is a lot of cut outs for obvious reasons. Every single one aligned perfectly and without any problems. I made sure the oil pan was torqued correctly and seated as it should be. Now there are no leaks and this bike should be good until the next oil change or service. Thanks Webike, very pleased with this purchase. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA R1 Limited Edition, YAMAHA R1 Limited Edition, YAMAHA R1 50th Anniversary, YAMAHA R1 50th Anniversary, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA YFZ-R1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA FZ1
Genuine Yamaha Hose 5 for FZ1 2008
This was yet another part that is for the rebuild of the FZ1 2008 which was looking a bit tired with the almost 20 year old OEM parts. Although they were not particularly damaged, they made the bike look older than it is so new ones are essential. Finding the right hose was easy as I already had the Yamaha schematics for the previous pipes and hoses needed. The cost from Webike was great and far better than I could source locally. With the other parts I need for this rebuild in the same order, I saved a little on the shipping too which also helped. Via EMS my order was delivered in 5 days from shipping and was very well packaged and padded out so no damage was incurred. The hose 5 is a smaller diameter hose than the previous hose 1 I also purchased but it is also an inner braided hose as it needs to be robust and strong. The original bend fits perfectly with the pipes and along witht he clips I also purchased, the rebuild is cvoming along nicely. Thanks Webike, great job guys. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA YZ450F (YZ450FV), YAMAHA YZ450F 50TH ANNIVERSARY (YZ450FSPV)
Lock washer for TZr50R WeightGEARNut
[How is it used?
I purchased this for EngineO/H of YAMAHA/TZr50R.
It will be a Lock washer used to secure the WeightGEAR.
Purchased due to non-reusability.
How was your experience with it?
Since it is an OEM Product, there is no doubt about the quality.
I set up the installation jaws while checking the service manual.
How did it compare to other products?
There is no comparison, but this type of component must be an OEM Product.
[Points to note]
Remember to keep your fingernails in place.
Also, only one place to claw.
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Fits: SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI Burgman, SUZUKI GSX-R750, SUZUKI GSX-R750, SUZUKI GSX-R600Z, SUZUKI GSX-R600, SUZUKI GSX-R1000, SUZUKI GSX-R750
Great product
Product original and match perfect in my motorcycle. The product was well package and arrived well.When I asked the support teams was ready to answer my questions and sent me the invoice fast. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA R1 Limited Edition, YAMAHA R1 Limited Edition, YAMAHA R1 50th Anniversary, YAMAHA R1 50th Anniversary, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA YFZ-R1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA FZ1
Genuine Yamaha Hose 1 for FZ1 2008
This is another part of the pipe and hose rebuild for the FZ1 which was looking a little tired with old parts. This one was the hose 1 which attaches to the pipe 1 I also have in this order. I found the right hose by using the Yamaha schematics and searching through Webike website. The pipe was very good value for money and a lot cheaper than could be sourced locally. With all the other parts for this rebuild in my order, I had them all shipped together via EMS and the order arrived undamaged in 5 days. The packaging for this order was perfect and very well padded out to stop any issues. This hose 1 is a internally braided hose as it does need to be very strong and robust for the purpose needed. It is well made and is the perfect diamter as needed for the job in hand. Not really much I can say about this pipe 1 but standard Yamaha quality throughout. Can't beat that for peace of mind. Thanks Webike. View detail