Reviews
Yamaha brake pad kit
Needed new front a back brake pads and wanted to keep genuine Yamaha ones. Very cheap for the brake pads. They are good and last a long while. Pads are great, look brilliant. Easy to fit them and ready to ride quickly. They are new so need to break in but very happy to have bought genuine. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA SR400
Front side especially Check
At last my Speedometer broke down.
Speedometer speed does not increase.
I thought the Speedometer needle itself might be sticking, so I tried tapping the Meter to vibrate it, but I didn't hear a peep.
Replacing the Meter would be nice, but I'm wondering if this is happening due to other parts of the body. I was wondering.
I traced the Cable attached to the Meter to the Front tire.
→ It was beautifully rusted and cut (laughs).
Speedometer Cable is a cable that connects the Speedometer to the Speedometer gear on the front tire. 。
Since the Meter cable indicates speed by transmitting the RPM of the GEAR to the Meter, if the Cable is disconnected or deteriorated, the Meter will not be able to display accurate Speed.
→ It looks like the rust was definitely the cause.
Rust and deterioration are likely to occur.
If the cable is installed at a strange angle, the resistance of the cable will increase and it is easy for the needle to shake or break.
Water intrusion into inner cable. Since the &rarr is located near the front tire (near the brake on SR400), it is easily exposed to water and mud, and moisture tends to accumulate. Therefore, it is prone to rust.
(3) Outdoor storage. Rust tends to increase due to repeated moisture and dryness caused by rain, hot weather, etc.
→The mounting angle of (1) can be worked out if you want to, but as for (2) and (3), I don't think it is easy to avoid.
Regular maintenance such as lubrication and cleaning is mandatory.
Once rusted, it is advisable to replace the wire, since removing the rust may cause significant damage to the wire strength.
How to exchange
(1) Remove the Cable attached to the Reverse side of the Speedometer. (1) Remove the cable attached to the reverse side of the speedometer.
↓* Existing Cable with O-ring, reuse.
There is also a slot on the front brake side, so remove that as well. This one is fixed with a split pin. This is also to be reused.
↓
(3) Apply Grease to the tips of both ends of the new Cable.
↓
Do not forget the split pin on the front side.
↓
(5) Float the front tire.
↓
(6) Tire is idled by hand, and if the Meter moves, it is complete.
【Impressions】
The rust was worse on the front brake side, which is located closer to the ground, than the cable on the meter side... The inner cable was slightly broken due to the rust.
Because of the structure of the Outer cable and Inner cable, water and dirt accumulate in the Outer cable and get into the Inner cable, causing it to rust... I think that frequent cleaning is the best countermeasure.
I thought I had to look at it properly because it is a very important part of the car, not only for vehicle inspections, but also for safety standards.
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Fits: YAMAHA SR400
You should pay attention to them from time to time.
Kick start, synonymous with SR400.
The Kick Arm that I have been using for many years still seems to work, but I feel fatigue (Gold fatigue), and if it breaks in the future, I will no longer be able to apply Engine, so I renewed it.
Kick start
‥To start Motorcycle and other Engines using Kick starter.
What is Motorcycle's Kick starter? ]
The electricity from the battery is used to rotate the Cell Motor, and the engine is started by the power of the Cell Motor. Cell start In contrast, the Rider's own kicking force is used to start the Engine. Kick start." is 。
The benefits of Kick start.
No burden on the battery.
Cell start motorcycles use electricity from the battery when starting, but kick start motorcycles do not require electricity when starting. Therefore, the battery is not burdened, and battery buildup can be suppressed. In addition, even if the battery does run up, the Kick start motorcycle can start the engine manually, which can be helpful in an emergency.
However, if the engine displacement volume is a CUB or something like that, there is also a demerit for Kick start.
[Demerit]
If the force to step down on the Kick pedal at the start is insufficient, not only does the Kick start fail, but the Kick pedal may jump up in the opposite direction with great force. The so-called Ketin." Ya Kickback." This phenomenon is called "ketchin". When kettling occurs, some Risks are hit hard on the shin or other parts of the body by the Kick pedal that has bounced up, causing them to faint in agony.
Ketching Prevention
There are two ways to prevent kettling:using Decompression or not using Decompression.
. How to use Decompression."
The KICK pedal is then lowered vigorously and the engine is applied.
. How to do it without Decompression.
After returning the Kick pedal completely to the top, step down the Kick pedal to the bottom again to start the engine. 。 This is the basic way to hang an Engine using Kick starter.
Kick pedal and Kick Arm.
There are some precautions to be taken when installing the product.
This is the relationship with the Pedal position.
If you are replacing the footpeg with an external footpeg, the Arm itself has less clearance, so there will be interference→at that time, please return to the OEM footpeg.
The OEM footpeg is too large and interferes with the exhaust system. →Kick Arm is OEM.
Replacement is not difficult, since all you have to do is remove the bolt attached to the base of the Kick Arm and replace it.
However, the place where the Arm fits is geared, so be sure to insert it properly aligned with the gears.
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Fits: YAMAHA SR400
Blinker's blinking malfunction is one of the first things to suspect.
I have been doing a lot of maintenance work, but I have not touched the electrical system much at all, so I decided to take this opportunity to do maintenance work.
Blinker stopped blinking and,
It vibrates a lot, and the bulb often goes out, and sometimes the battery is weak, but I suspected the blinker relay, since it had just been renewed.
What is Blinker relay?
Blinker relay is a component that operates the blinking of the direction indicator installed in cars and motorcycles. 。 Also known as a "flasher relay," it enables blinking at regular intervals by switching an electrical signal on and off.
Blinker relay seems to have different usage and characteristics between external and OEM.
Blinker relay outside the company
[OEMBlinker relay
The Blinker relay of the ManufacturerOEM is designed to match the power consumption of the OEM Halogen bulb, and when the Blinker Valve is turned off, it will detect the change in power consumption and will flash Polished and High flasher to inform the user. The Blinker relay is designed to match the power consumption of Halogen bulbs in OEMs.
→In my case, I don't intend to change to LED, and I prefer to keep Halogen, so I will replace the OEMBlinker relay as it is.
What are the symptoms of a bad Blinker relay? What is a Flasher relay (Blinker relay)? Blinker blinks at regular intervals." Parts. 。 When the flasher relay fails, The Blinker is still on. Blinker won't stick." Symptoms such as
And if you leave it as it is, it will break.
When it breaks.
The wire is disconnected and the Headlight and Blinker do not turn on when the Switch is turned on.
By the way, in my case.
Flashes normally when Idling 。
When the Engine is revved up, it sometimes flashes irregularly. 。
Flashes irregularly at higher RPMs than at constant RPMs. 。
→I'll replace it while it's still irregular...it would be troublesome if it gets disconnected...(laughs)
How to exchange
Remove ?Seat.
↓
The Blinker relay is a black square Matchbox-like component with a small Elastic band on the bottom of the Seat.
↓
(3) Coupler removes the old Blinker relay and simply inserts the new Blinker relay.
〜After replacement
Incorrect blinking has been resolved.
I was relieved that the wire was not disconnected (laughs).
In such cases, it may be a good idea to replace the Blinker relay first, because the parts cost is low and the work is simple and can be done on an individual Level.
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Fits: YAMAHA PW50 (PW50B1), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50D1), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50E1), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50F1), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50G2), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50H2), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50J2), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50K2), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50L2), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50M2), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50W), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50X), YAMAHA PW50 (PW50Y), YAMAHA PW50
PW50
yamaha PW50Carburetor.
Replaced because it was no longer Idling.
Other Brand Products are also available on the Net for about 3000 yen, but they received mixed reviews.
OEM Product.
I am glad that it was Timing with a 5% discount on OEM Product at WeBig.
There are several model numbers of CarburetorAssembly for each year of the long-lived model,
Note that the price is also RoseRose.
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It is also more durable and easier to ride.
This time, we are going to Restore the suspension of SR400.
I had installed an external Spring, but I don't need that much for SR400, so I installed an OEM Spring as well as Overhaul.
Motorcycle suspension is an image of Large body rear suspension...what is a front fork?
Front fork is important for motorcycles.
‥ Front fork is an important part for safe motorcycle operation. 。
Action
The front fork is the suspension of the front and is used to absorb shocks and improve steering performance.
It absorbs shock so that it does not shake when it picks up Gap on the road surface, suppresses the Front from going out of control (losing balance) during Corner ring, and also affects Breaking.
Reduced sinking behavior when front wheel Brake is applied.
→ Front area is responsible for the balance of the vehicle body. 。
In the case of large bodies, the front of the fork will fail due to the deterioration of the oil filled in the fork, called fork oil, but if the spring deteriorates and becomes worn out....
[Defects in Spring's Downs].
▲ Somewhat fluffy.
▲When I go over a step, the shaking doesn't stop.
When ▲Brake is applied, it suddenly sinks, and when Release is applied, it suddenly returns.
Front is out of control during ▲Corner.
▲Front goes out of control at high speed. 。
→In my case, I felt the shaking when I went over a bump and the jiggle of the Corner ring, so I considered replacing it.
Some people say that as long as the front oil is removed and renewed, it is not necessary to replace the springs, but springs are also consumables, so they cannot be completely replaced.
[Spring's lifespan].
Most vehicles with a mileage (depending on how they are driven) of over 40,000 km are beyond the limit of use. 。 If the front end is sunken (you can't tell unless you put the same car side by side), or if it bottoms out when fully braked, it may be time to replace it.
I've changed to an external spring, but it feels like it's worn out, and when I grip the front brake it sinks a lot, so I'm not sure if that's the limit of the replacement.
Incidentally, the front fork oil seemed to have a life span of 10,000 to 20,000 km.
After much research, it seems that OEMSpring and external Spring are unlikely to benefit from Spring itself, so we decided to use OEM.
The exchange method is
How to exchange ~SR400~
(1) Jack-up the lower Frame of Engine.
If it is with Center Stand, it is Center Stand.
↓
Remove front brake caliper, front tire, and front fender. 。
↓
Remove the top cover of the Handlebar and Fork.
↓
(4) Before removing the Fork, loosen the Top bolt using a high Nut instead of a Hexagonal.
↓
(5) Buy a 17mm high Nut and loosen it immediately.
↓
(6) Remove the Fork.
↓
(7) Inner and Outer removal.
↓
(8) Allen Bolt is loosened by Impact.
↓
(9) Inner is a long screw with a double nut to stop it from turning.
↓
? Oil is absorbed by Oil absorbent material and Spring, Color, and Washer are taken out.
↓
Remove the oil seal (11).
↓
Stroke the ?Tube with new oil and clean the inside. 。
↓
?Upside down for a while to drain Oil. 。
↓
Push the Inner Tube all the way in and fill it with a small amount of oil, stroke it, and let it stand for a few minutes to purge the air.
* Put in a new Spring at this time.
↓
In the case of ?SR400, the oil volume is 176ml, and the oil level is 199mm, so measure the oil volume appropriately, and then insert the oil.
↓
?Seal is hard to get into, so substitute PVC Pipe or something similar to get it in.
↓
Return in the order of ??→?.
〜After replacement
◎Calm sinking during Brake.
◎I could feel the bumps on the road surface absorbing the impact. 。
◎Corner ring is also stable 。
◎It is not as crisp as the outside of the company, but it is easier to ride.
I thought it would be better to ask the store if possible.
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Fits: YAMAHA SR400
If you think about it in the long term, we recommend replacement.
I was looking at ESTRELLA's Fuel Cock, and I was wondering about SR400 too.
I'm not seeing any glitches at this point, but I'm concerned that there may be some in the near future.
This one is also dirty near the Fuel Cock, I could see Gasoline seepage, so let's replace it!
I feel like I should just replace the internal Packing, but I decided to replace it still wanting to continue to ride.
Like ESTRELLA, SR is also a negative pressure carburetor.
Fuel Cock (Negative Pressure Cook)
...Cook is a Fuel Cock that uses air pressure.
The Motorcycle is divided into Parts called Fuel Tank (Fuel Tank) and Fuel Cock (Fuel Cock) that connects the Carburetor.
Cook's Place.
The parts called "Fuel Cock" are attached to the bottom of the fuel tank.
Applies to vehicles equipped with a Reserve Fuel Tank.
Mainly Carburetor cars.
How Fuel Cock works.
It is generated when the engine is running and the air mixture is inhaled. "Negative pressure" Gasoline flows through the open valve by
Simply put, if Engine is on.
→Gasoline flows.
When the Engine stops
The flow of →Gasoline stops.
[If the Fuel Cock malfunctions...
Fuel supply is not normal, causing Engine malfunction or fuel leakage.
→Idling unstable, frequent stalls, Gasoline smell.
...Gasoline leaks.
→ Flammability hazard.
Fuel Cock failure can occur over a long period of time due to deterioration. The following are some of the causes.
Cause
Rust in Fuel Tank, Gasoline mixed with rust passes through Cook →Damaged parts in Cook 。
Internal packing damage due to age-related deterioration.
*Packing is mainly Material:Deterioration occurs due to constant contact with Rubber and Gasoline.
I think this is also the case for SR400.
A simple explanation is that Cook = faucet.
You know how sometimes you find water leaking even though you've tightened it properly?
Material inside:It leaks because the RubberPacking has deteriorated and is no longer sealed.
Although the replacement is not large, there are many steps involved.
How to Replace Motorcycle Fuel Cock ~SR400~
(1) Empty the fuel tank (Gasoline). 。
If you see Rust in the tank, remove the rust. Soak the tank in rust remover (Sun Pole can be substituted) and leave it to soak overnight.
↓
(2) Turn off Fuel Cock.
↓
Pull out the Fuel Hose and the Negative Pressure Hose.
Please check that there are no cracks in the hose.
↓
Place the Fuel Tank from (4) on a step Ball or soft place.
↓
(5) Replace the Fuel CockAssy.
↓
? ?→? Return in this order to complete the process.
〜After replacement
◎Of course, the Gasoline blotch near Cook is gone.
◎Improved a little Gasoline smell.
If you want to keep the cost as low as possible, you can replace only the packing with a large sturdy one, but if it is an old car body, it is better to replace it with a new one.
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Fits: YAMAHA JOG (CG50A), YAMAHA JOG (CG50B), YAMAHA JOG (CY50D), YAMAHA JOG (CY50E), YAMAHA JOG (CY50F), YAMAHA JOG (CY50G), YAMAHA JOG (CY50H), YAMAHA JOG (CY50J), YAMAHA JOG (CY50K), YAMAHA JOG (CY50L), YAMAHA JOG (CY50M), YAMAHA JOG (CY50N), YAMAHA RAZZ (SH50A), YAMAHA RAZZ (SH50B), YAMAHA SH50MA, YAMAHA ZUMA (CW50TA), YAMAHA ZUMA (YW50AL), YAMAHA ZUMA (YW50P), YAMAHA ZUMA (YW50R), YAMAHA ZUMA (YW50S)
TZr250R (3XV) Diversion to Oil line of
YamahaTZr250R (3XV) The oil line was diverted to the 2-stroke oil line of the
The OEM oil line hose has been discontinued, and I have been looking for a good oil resistant hose, but have been unable to find a good one, and there is not much information on the Internet.
Then it occurred to me. If it's from a vehicle with a high production count, wouldn't it still be available?" So I did some searching and came across this page.
I used the one I received and found it to be usable without any problems with the Size feel, length, etc.
Since these are OEM Parts, the texture itself is not a problem at all.
The oil line for Yamaha cars is basically the 90445- series, and there may or may not be a difference in the inner diameter. If there is no leakage, the discharge volume itself will not change that much, so it can be used. (Please point out if I'm wrong.)
I was curious later and did some research and found that many of the cars are still quite available for purchase.
At a quick glance, I wonder if 90445-05M07 is the most cost-effective since it is L700. I think so.
In any case, I'm glad to have solved my problem of what to do with the discontinued product for a few hundred dollars.
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Fits: YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA R1 Limited Edition, YAMAHA R1 Limited Edition, YAMAHA R1 50th Anniversary, YAMAHA R1 50th Anniversary, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA YFZ-R1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA FZ1
Genuine Yamaha Hose 5 for FZ1 2008
This was yet another part that is for the rebuild of the FZ1 2008 which was looking a bit tired with the almost 20 year old OEM parts. Although they were not particularly damaged, they made the bike look older than it is so new ones are essential. Finding the right hose was easy as I already had the Yamaha schematics for the previous pipes and hoses needed. The cost from Webike was great and far better than I could source locally. With the other parts I need for this rebuild in the same order, I saved a little on the shipping too which also helped. Via EMS my order was delivered in 5 days from shipping and was very well packaged and padded out so no damage was incurred. The hose 5 is a smaller diameter hose than the previous hose 1 I also purchased but it is also an inner braided hose as it needs to be robust and strong. The original bend fits perfectly with the pipes and along witht he clips I also purchased, the rebuild is cvoming along nicely. Thanks Webike, great job guys. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA YZ450F (YZ450FV), YAMAHA YZ450F 50TH ANNIVERSARY (YZ450FSPV)
Lock washer for TZr50R WeightGEARNut
[How is it used?
I purchased this for EngineO/H of YAMAHA/TZr50R.
It will be a Lock washer used to secure the WeightGEAR.
Purchased due to non-reusability.
How was your experience with it?
Since it is an OEM Product, there is no doubt about the quality.
I set up the installation jaws while checking the service manual.
How did it compare to other products?
There is no comparison, but this type of component must be an OEM Product.
[Points to note]
Remember to keep your fingernails in place.
Also, only one place to claw.
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Fits: YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA R1 Limited Edition, YAMAHA R1 Limited Edition, YAMAHA R1 50th Anniversary, YAMAHA R1 50th Anniversary, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA YFZ-R1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA R1, YAMAHA FZ1
Genuine Yamaha Hose 1 for FZ1 2008
This is another part of the pipe and hose rebuild for the FZ1 which was looking a little tired with old parts. This one was the hose 1 which attaches to the pipe 1 I also have in this order. I found the right hose by using the Yamaha schematics and searching through Webike website. The pipe was very good value for money and a lot cheaper than could be sourced locally. With all the other parts for this rebuild in my order, I had them all shipped together via EMS and the order arrived undamaged in 5 days. The packaging for this order was perfect and very well padded out to stop any issues. This hose 1 is a internally braided hose as it does need to be very strong and robust for the purpose needed. It is well made and is the perfect diamter as needed for the job in hand. Not really much I can say about this pipe 1 but standard Yamaha quality throughout. Can't beat that for peace of mind. Thanks Webike. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA 50X (YW50FXL), YAMAHA 50X (YW50FXW), YAMAHA C3 (XF50AW), YAMAHA C3 (XF50W), YAMAHA C3 (XF50XL), YAMAHA C3 (XF50XR), YAMAHA C3 (XF50XW), YAMAHA C3 (XF50YR), YAMAHA C3 (XF50YS), YAMAHA C3 (XF50ZB), YAMAHA JOG (CG50A), YAMAHA JOG (CG50B), YAMAHA JOG (CY50D), YAMAHA JOG (CY50E), YAMAHA JOG (CY50F), YAMAHA JOG (CY50G), YAMAHA JOG (CY50H), YAMAHA JOG (CY50J), YAMAHA JOG (CY50K), YAMAHA JOG (CY50L)
O-ring for TZr50R Cell Motor
[How is it used?
Used during EngineO/H of YAMAHA/TZr50R.
This product is an O-ring for Cell Motor.
To be honest, I don't think the O-ring needs to be replaced, but since it was an engine O/H, I replaced it.
How was your experience with it?
The product is safe to use because it is OEM Parts, but there is no particular effect from the change.
How did it compare to other products?
I can't compare because I don't have the outside of the company. Conversely, if the OEM parts are no longer available, they cannot be replaced, so they were replaced this time.
[Points to note]
When installing, apply Grease before installation.
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Fits: YAMAHA YZ125W, YAMAHA YZ490 (YZ490K)
Purchased by mistake, what for?
[How is it used?
I bought this for EngineO/H of YAMAHA/TZr50R.
I bought it because the Net said this Parts number was OilDrain washer.
Compared to the original Washer, it was noticeably larger.
It is a mystery as to which type of Washer was originally intended for which type of car.
How was your experience with it?
I could not use it, but I think the quality is OK because it is OEM Parts.
How did it compare to other products?
OilDrain washer for TZr50R is 90430-08119.
[Points to note]
Note that once attached, it will be replaced the next time it is disassembled.
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Fits: YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ-1 (FZS10V), YAMAHA FZ-1 CA (FZS10VC), YAMAHA FZS1 (FZS10FCGY), YAMAHA FZS1 (FZS10FGY)
Genuine Yamaha Pipe 4 for FZ1 2008
This was another pipe that needed replacing on the FZ1 which was looking a little tired with rusty pipes. The pipe 4 was not hard to find as I used the tools Webike provide on their help pages and then cross referenced with Yamaha schematics for my own peace of mind. The pipe 4 is one on the outer side so it does get a lot of road debris and rain so it was only a matter of time really. The pipe 4 was very good value and a lot cheaper than my local Yamaha dealer could sell for. With the other parts in this project in the same order, it was all delivered by EMS and took 5 days to arrive. The pipe was well packaged and surrounded by bubble wrap to keep it safe. The pipe itself is well made and is finished off in satin black Yamaha paint which is flawless. All the pipe ends are perfect with no damage. I did order all the accompnying o-rings and rubber pipes too and now I just have to put it all back together. Nice work Webike, thank you. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YZF-R1, YAMAHA YFZ-R1 (YZFR1WC), YAMAHA FZ-1 CA (FZS10VC), YAMAHA FZ-1 (FZS10V)
Genuine Yamaha Pipe 1 for FZ1 2008
The FZ1 was a little tired looking and the pipe work needed attention. This was one part of many for this small project. The pipe was easy to find by using the tools Webike have available on the help pages etc. I also cross referenced with Yamaha schematics for my own peace of mind. The pipe was pretty good value and a lot cheaper than could be sourced locally from the Yamaha dealer. With the other parts in this project in the same order, this saved some chipping costs too. My order arrived in 5 days from being shipped and was well packaged. The pipe was even wrapped up with additional padding to keep it safe. The pipe is a well made part and this part number is a newer version of the oem standard so there must have been some issue with the opriginal anyway. The finish of the pipe is a nice satin black and the pipe ends are all perfectly circular with no damage. Now the job starts to replace all this and more. Thanks Webike View detail
Fits: YAMAHA YZFR1, YAMAHA YZFR1, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZF-R6, YAMAHA YZF-R6, YAMAHA YZF-R6, YAMAHA YZF-R6, YAMAHA YZF-R6, YAMAHA YZF-R6, YAMAHA YZF-R6 WORLD GP 50TH ANNIVERSARY, YAMAHA YZF-R6 WORLD GP 50TH ANNIVERSARY, YAMAHA YZF-R6, YAMAHA YZF-R6
without a rattle
I was satisfied with Active's High Throttle Pipe & Phi;40 in the Throttle holder of 2014 NINJA1000 because it narrowed the opening, but there was a lot of rattle in the lateral direction. I bought this R6 Throttle Pipe because it looked like it would have less rattling.
But even after the replacement, the rattle was still the same after all (laughs).
So, I put the black resin washer between the Grip and Pulley into the Throttle holder as a trial, and the rattle became zero and it became smooth without any snagging when opening and closing the Axel.
Incidentally, NINJA1000's Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) The grip is 115mm long, the same length as the grip on the mini bike, so I removed and replaced the 120mm size grip that was already on the bike.
Throttle pipe is white resin and it is a little bit conspicuous, but I am satisfied with the replacement.
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Fits: YAMAHA YZFR1, YAMAHA YZFR1, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1FB), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1FCB), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1FCL), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1FCR), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1FL), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1FR), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1GCGY), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1GCL), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1GGY), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1GL)
Genuine Yamaha Bracket 13 for YZF-R1 2016
This bracket had clearly too some hit as it had snapped near to the engine side. Not a big deal but I did want to replace it for one that will hold the fairing well. Finding the right part was easy using the tools Webike provide and cross referencing with Yamaha schematics. The cost was very good value and less than half the cost of buying locally. With some other parts for the R1, I had EMS ship them all toghether so I would get them all at the same time. In 5 days the order arrived and the parts were perfectly wrapped and kept safe. The bracket itself is aluminium but that does not mean it is not strong, I could barely flex it at all which is good. The bends are all correct and align with the fairing and the engine side. SImple to fit but worth the effort knowing the fairing will stay where it is supposed to . Cheap fix, great part, what more can you want. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA YZ250F, YAMAHA YZ250F, YAMAHA YZ250F, YAMAHA YZ250F, YAMAHA YZ250F, YAMAHA WR250F (WR250FN), YAMAHA WR250F (WR250FP), YAMAHA WR250F (WR250FR), YAMAHA WR250F (WR250FS), YAMAHA WR250F (WR250FT), YAMAHA WR400F (WR400FK), YAMAHA WR400F (WR400FL), YAMAHA WR400F (WR400FM), YAMAHA WR426F (WR426FN), YAMAHA WR426F (WR426FP), YAMAHA WR450F (WR450FR), YAMAHA WR450F (WR450FS), YAMAHA WR450F (WR450FT), YAMAHA YZ400 (YZ400FK), YAMAHA YZ400FL
Genuine Yamaha Bolt for YZ250F 2004
This was a shouldered bolt that had a lot of damage to the head so it was barely tightened up. I managed to get the old one out but there was no way this was going to do it's job going back in the way it was. New one ordered, the bolt was a little tricky to find but managed to get it via the Yamaha schematics. The price was really great value, even though it is only a bolt, you definitely need this one and you would struggle to find a regular bolt to work as it should. I did have some other parts ready to order so I got them all shipped using EMS together to save some costs. My order arrived in 5 days as they usually do via EMS and was all well packaged. The bolt came in the Yamaha packet and was also inside a bubble wrapped envelope. The bolt has nice and clean threads and the head is super nice. Simple to fit, no issues and the oil filter cover is now torqued up as it should be. Happy customer, thanks Webike View detail
Fits: YAMAHA YZFR1, YAMAHA YZFR1, YAMAHA YZFR1, YAMAHA YZFR1, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1M, YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1FB), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1FCB), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1FCL), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1FCR), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1FL), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1FR), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1GCGY), YAMAHA YZFR1 (YZFR1GCL)
Genuine Yamaha Oil Cooler for YZF-R1 2018
This bike came in after a fall and a really back hit to the oil cooler. This needed replacing pronto. Finding the right part was not hard by simply checking Yamaha schematics and the part number came up. These are not cheap parts for this bike and after some other parts needed to fix this, the cost crept up quite a bit. Saying that though, this was still a heck of a lot cheaper than could be sourced locally. With the other parts needed for this rebuild, I had them all shipped together so save on the shipping cost. I use EMS and even though I did have some customs duty fees to pay, my order was still delivered in 7 days. The oil cooler came in a pretty big Yamaha box and was well protected. The oil cooler itself is a pretty intricate part especially with all the brackets that are placed around it. The fins and pipe joints were perfect and I could not be happier with this. Fitting was super easy as it was all ready to accept the new oil cooler. Thanks Webike. View detail
Fits: YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ8, YAMAHA FZ8, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ1, YAMAHA FZ8, YAMAHA FZ8
Genuine Yamaha Hose 7 for FZ1 2008
There was nothing particularly wrong with the old part structurally but it did look in bad shape witht the colouring etc. Time for a new one. Finding the right hose was easy by checking the Yamaha schematics. The hose itself is a good sixze but that is not really reflected in the price, very good value for money in my books. I did have a couple of other parts in my order for this bike and got them all shipped as one and saved a few pounds too. The shipping took 5 days and all my order was in tact and perfect. The hose does come in the standard Yamaha packet and was surrounded with bubble wrap. It has a nice outer sleeve for heat protection and is fairly rigid but does have some flex to it. Perfect. Not really much else I can say about this as there were no issues in the hose or in fitting it. Looks a lot better than the old pipe which did have some signs of wear on the inside by the way. Very pleased. View detail