Reviews
As expected of a ready-made product
I thought I could make it myself, but this time I bought it. It was a bit expensive. I'm glad I bought it because it turned out just like the image. View detail
Length and Working Space
We needed to change the Bolt that holds the Exhaust System in place, so we went with this one.
I would have been happy with one, but it's not perishable, so I'll keep it in the Screw box in case I use it someday.
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alignment
I tried to install NPRO Ject's Twin muffler on my WR250X, but the Clutch Side interfered with the ZeroGee Tail cowl, so I chose this one to keep it off the outside.
It is better mentally than piling on the appropriate Washer or Bolt.
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KITACOConvenienceParts has been helpful.
What made you decide to buy?
Because the ZitaRacing ScreenBolt does not come with a Nylon washer!
[How is it used?
To install the Zita Racing ScreenBolt!
[How was the installation?
It is Exactly to the size of ZitaRacing ScreenBolt.
[How was it when you used it?
Rather than installing the bolt directly, just inserting a nylon washer between the bolt and the washer will help prevent scratches. I think that even if you just have it as a spare part, you can use it later on! This is a product that is not likely to be found at a nearby home center.
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I made a mistake in the size and couldn't use it, but I'm making it Stock.
[How is it used?
Generator fixed bolt from Nabe Screw during EngineO/H of YAMAHA/TZr50R.
I bought this one with the intention of replacing it.
The result was not usable because of the wrong Size, but we are using it as a Stock for something else.
How was your experience with it?
I think the quality is good enough.
How did it compare to other products?
I don't have anything to compare it to, but I wonder if the price is higher than Home centeretc.
There are many types of this kind of products, so it is easier to find them on Net.
[Points to note]
nothing special
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For carbon silencer.
To Maverick's MV83Carbon silencer.
The Maverick Exhaust Band is a common silver color, so I thought it would be more consistent if I changed it to black. I changed it to black to make it look more consistent.
The color and Size matched.
The Bolt hole in the band section is narrow between the Bolt hole and the Exhaust System, so it might be a little bit higher.
The bolt nut that came with the product was too small to use, so the OEM product was reused.
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To prevent Axle Nut from loosening on older cars.
I used this as a split pin to prevent the Axle Nut from loosening, which is common on older cars. I always do this because it is easier to purchase than to look up the OEM Product No. and order one at a time.
For Motorcycle, the 3 sizes included in this kit should be sufficient for Large.
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Thinnest lock nut known
The change lever of Babyface is divided into two parts, and the Flat Cap Boltm6 12mm is tightened by Screw lock+tightening the specified Torque.:2pc. The set was used to connect the two, but because it came off while driving, we thought it would be best to use a double nut to stop the nut, so we installed a longer 20mm nut than the 12mm nut that would be used for the double nut to fix the set.
This Nut is as thin as 4mm and with Lock.
It cannot be Torqueed strongly, but it is a very effective product.
Is it expensive?
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Used with Babyface Change lever
The change lever of Babyface is divided into two parts, and the Flat Cap Boltm6 12mm is tightened by Screw lock+tightening the specified Torque.:2pc. We used a set to connect the two, but since it came off while driving, we thought it would be best to use a double nut stop, and since the reverse side of the lever would be tight with 12mm, we installed a longer 20mm and then fixed this product to the reverse side.
Nut texture is good and 4mm thin is the only one I know of.
If it were a little cheaper, it would help.
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Many color variations available
A wide variety of color variations are available, making it easy to match the color of the car body.
The price was inexpensive and helpful.
The texture is perfect.
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This is the only m6Lock nut that is thin.
The change lever of Babyface is divided into two parts, and the Flat Cap Boltm612mm is tightened by Screw lock+tightening the specified Torque.:2pc. The set was used to connect the two, but since it came off while driving, we thought it would be best to use double nut fasteners, so we used the included 12mm to make the reverse side of the lever tight, so we used the longer 20mm to penetrate and installed this product.
Nut texture is good.
As far as I know, this is the only thin 4mm of m6Nut.
But it would help if it were a little cheaper.
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Convenient to align the retrofit Attachment Power Line with the same color as the OEM
It is convenient to match the color of the OEM ACC power supply with the color of the ACC linked power supply of the retrofit Electric Attachment.
If I simply make it Red, it is Large strange to chase whether it is Badda-nai or not.
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For everyday use
I bought this for regular use for Repair because the Throttle Wire on my old Motorcycle broke and OEM Parts were out of business and there was nothing I could do about it.
Screw lock was used for the Thailandoko fixing Screw, and the Thailandoko was fixed Firmly with a Solder at the root of the Thailandoko.
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6V For compatibility with Large type terminals that supply power to MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The car body was stored in a high humidity environment, so it was also battered by corrosion, but the humidity also entered the inside of the Harness and corroded the core wire in the cord, which was also battered.
Cut the damaged part, create a new Harness, and make a new Connector.
In the end, we had to redo the connector as the center of the connector, because moisture would penetrate and corrode from the area where it is crimped by the terminals in the connector.
When redoing a Connector, play it back in the existing Connector whenever possible.
It's a method of removing corroded terminals from a Connector and replacing only the terminals.
However, if the terminals are corroded, conduction resistance is created and heat is generated, which may cause the ConnectorBody to burn or melt.
Pinch especially Large-type Connectors with Large current flow when they are corroded.
So, this Connector, which is the source of the Large that supplies Battery power to 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, was looking a bit iffy, so we replaced it with a new one.
Since it is a standardized product, it is fully interchangeable, and even if it is necessary to replace the harness again for some reason in the future, it can be interchanged without a hitch.
The milk-white Connectors seem to have a tendency to crack over time due to heat and UV rays, but the milk-white OEM Connectors have withstood 30 years without cracking, so I am sure this one will be large and durable.
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Good texture and usability
The Front Fender of CRF250RLY50 is very low front, so when I run Course and other aggressive driving, the front tire and the Front Fender contact each other at the Full Bottom. I use this 5mm Spacer on the rear two of the four Fender fixing points to change the angle.
It's very good.
The strength and precision are perfect.
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High quality and value for money
I used this to adjust the angle of Windshield of CRF250RALLY50. I put a 25mm Spacer on it and it looks good. If it is longer than 25mm, it will be a problem to fix the screen, so 25mm is the limit.
The beautiful anodized black color of KITACO's aluminum spacer blends well with the black of the OEM front cowl stay of the CRF250RLY50.
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The main point is that the outer diameter is larger than that of a regular collar.
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The footpeg was made by Menani, but it was too battered, so we used parts from various manufacturers that we managed to put together to form the footpeg.
However, when I installed it, the footpeg mount on the frame side seems to be distorted only on the Right Side, and it slightly goes too far inside the vehicle body.
Left has about 5mm gap between footpeg and Swing Arm, but Right has only about 2mm...
As expected, it was too narrow, so we tried to optimize it by inserting a 3mm-thick Spacer between the footpeg and the Frame.
That is fine, but the contact area with the footpeg was small because the outer diameter of the spacer is a normal size.
I don't know what's wrong with that, but it bothered me, so I exchanged it for a Spacer with a larger outer diameter!
That is the product here.
The difference is slight.
However, those who laugh at it as slight are not qualified to talk about Tuning...so I feel good!
In fact, if you replace the Spacer only on the One Side, you will feel more like you are EXACTLY doing it.
I don't see anyone doing that.
The increased contact area should have increased the rigidity of the installation, but nothing can be felt.
Well, it's OK because it's self-satisfying.
The performance of Spacer itself is perfect.
Some hard Material (maybe in the 6000's based on machinability and Anodized's coloring? Mystery) and smooth surface.
0.It would be very nice to be able to purchase 1pc. units of Spacer for use on car bodies, unless there is a need for accuracy in 1mm increments!
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for BlinkerBullet Type Terminal replacement
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
The 900SL (900SS is the same) has a front blinker embedded in the cowl, which is unusual for a sports type motorbike, and is connected to the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness with a Bullet Type Terminal. The front blinker is embedded in the cowl, which is unusual for a sports type motorbike.
However, the Connector uses not only the Bullet Type Terminal, but also an ultra-thin Flat Terminal to connect the BlinkerBody to the Harness.
This is the same as the Flat Terminal of the stop lamp switch used in the front master cylinder, and is an example of a terminal that can break off if handled carelessly.
Bullet Type Terminals can be very difficult to remove when fitted tightly.
When pulling in a narrow cowl, it is easy to pull Wiring as hard as you can with the momentum of the pull out.
If the momentum breaks the ultra-thin terminal that connects to the BlinkerBody, it will be Large strange!
Parts are still available, but they are expensive (nearly $10,000 for One Side) and we must try not to break them!
That's where this Connector comes in.
The original Bullet Terminal is left in place and a very short Connection Connector is made, and the 110-type Connector is used for connection and disconnection.
This way, the valuable Blinker body is not destroyed because it does not require monstrous strength to pull it out.
In this case, it is a non-polarized part, so it is fine, but this Connector is not reversible, so it is also ideal for parts that require polarity.
You can make a lot of progress just by stopping Bullet Terminal and using this Connector!
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Change it often!
It was about to be torn off due to aging, so we replaced it. I would recommend replacing it regularly every few years because it is inexpensive and anyone can replace it quickly! View detail
The quality is good and can be used without problems!
Active (ACTIVE) I purchased this product for Repair because I damaged the Electro Tap of my company's LEDNumberSIDEBlinker. It works fine and the quality is good! As with all Electro Tap products, it is not waterproof at all, so please use it in a place where it will not be exposed to water! View detail