Reviews
![[Rough Craft ION] Ultra-Small LED Blinkers](https://img.webike-cdn.net/catalogue/images/105463/09150249_5f5fad1a635dd_TS.jpg)
Light intensity is sufficient for your needs.
I purchased this as a Rear blinker for my HPS300.
The light intensity was sufficient and no Relay replacement etc. was needed.
Use the included Sleeve to tie the wires together. It is not a difficult task, but there is no spare in case of failure, and I have not seen it in Home center, so if you need a spare sleeve, you may want to buy one from Amazon or other places.
It's a personal preference category, but I think Lens is the way to go. [Color] If there is a smoked lens model, I would like to replace it.
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![KOSO T&T Multi Function Meter [Black Panel]](https://img.webike-cdn.net/catalogue/images/24608/KS-MTNT-BKWH_img01_TS.jpg)
Cospa is good
I want to refreshing the handlebar area, but I don't want to give up my Portable navigator because it is so useful. I decided to replace the Meter to solve this problem, and I fantasized about Stack's ST500, but the price was not realistic for me, so I considered KOSO or acewell and decided to go with Design and It's broken We chose this product from KOSO, where there was no such thing as a "no".
For the installation, we wanted to add an additional indicator, so we cut a frame for the Multimeter out of 1.5mm thick aluminum plate and installed it on a base made of the bracket of the OEMMeter and the bracket and high nut we purchased at Home center. The wiring is a 9-pole and 3-pole 110 type coupler that can be attached and detached with the coupler just like the OEMMeter. The wiring was made by purchasing a 9-pole and a 3-pole 110 coupler to create an intermediate harness.
I installed a Bullet Terminal on the MultimeterBody wiring and connected it to the intermediate harness, relying on the wiring diagram in the Instruction Manual and Service Manual, and found that the speed signal and ACC wiring were redundant on the 9-pole side. I am not sure. I am not sure, but I heard that in case of ZRX1100 with OEMIgniterSpec. the engine will not blow more than a certain degree if the speed signal is not connected after the limiter is cut. My vehicle was replaced with a Unit from Uotani, so even with the extra wire for the speed signal, it seems to be Large sturdy. As for the permanent power supply, I connected a branch from the coupler of Ignition, and was able to energize Multimeter without any problem. In addition, since Multimeter had only one warning light for oil pressure warning light and water temperature warning light, we set up a separate Indicator light and connected it to Multimeter. I also added a separate indicator light for the high beam indicator. Also, for the Blinker and Neutral indicators, I added an Indicator light on top of the Meter, because the Indicator in the Multimeter alone seemed too small to be easily visible.
Finally, the speed sensor was attached to the Rear Sprocket by bonding a magnet to it, since it was difficult to attach the Speed sensor to the Front with the provided Bracket.
After confirming that the device was working, we set it up according to the Instruction Manual and adjusted the speed setting by comparing it to the speed on the GPSSpeedometer app on our smartphone while driving around the neighborhood, and we were ready to use the device.
Since we were unable to gather detailed information on the replacement of the Meter, we took a leap of faith that we could probably get by with it. However, the Instruction Manual did not include a EGCheckLamp." The design is to my liking, the texture is not bad, the operation of the Tachometer is smooth, the visibility of Speed is good, and for the price of about 20,000 yen, I think this quality is a good buy! The installation could be improved a little more. I would like to think about the installation of the handlebar in the future, as I think it needs a little more improvement. This time, I am very satisfied with the Refreshing around the Handlebar as expected. It was a fun summer vacation craft.
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LED-compatible Relay
I was looking for something else to replace the rear LEDs, but the relays seemed to be acting up and sometimes did not blink. I was looking for something else and found this one, so I installed it.
Compatible with 2 or 3-pole, both bulbs and LEDs. Even if the front and rear are different, this one can handle it.
It is a good price for the mounting Rubber, with Connector genus.
Since it is a Round Type, the mounting position is tricky.
It would have been nice if the Elastic band had two cutouts to choose where to install it.
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A little more
I wish it had a little more light.
Wiring is easy with CouplerON.
Modification to pass through the wiring is also easy if you are a person who plays with Motorcycle by yourself.
Double-sided tape and Cowl are different in shape, so processing is required before application.
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Fits: YAMAHA Cygnus X, YAMAHA CYGNUS X
Brightness or Style?
I bought this one to attach the center light.
The process is simple, as all you have to do is remove the OEM and install it.
The brightness of OEM is brighter, but if the design is the same as that of the Center light, this one has a more integrated feel and a better style.
You can either take Brightness or Style.
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Tailored to Blinker
I bought it to go with koso's Blinker, but it needed some wiring work. The product itself is solid. View detail
The supplied harness cannot be installed.
Harness for Blinker flashing can be installed, but put between Night lightWiring for always on.
The included Night Light harness could not be installed because the Coupler is different.
Wiring is processed and used.
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Small Type High Brightness Blinker
Because the Front Blinker was very good, I changed the Rear Blinker to the same type. The brightness is brighter and brighter than OEM.
PS
The OEMBlinker was replaced with LED as a balls-up, but it's brighter than that, so I think it's pretty bright.
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It looks alright!
First of all, as for installation, it becomes necessary to process with Cutter Knife etc. to the NORMAL parts. Because the GuideTape for that is attached, it is traced and the incision is put.
The installation is Double-sided Tape, but it was good if I installed it temporarily and cut off the unnecessary part because a little extra part is generated.
Wiring connection was easy as I just had to bite the Coupler.
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If you do not directly wire from the Plug side of the No.1 Plug cap, it will malfunction.
It was installed together with POSH ETC Bracket Type?
URL → https://www.webike.net/sd/2091470/
Note that if you don't wire directly from the Plug side of the #1 Plug cap, it won't pick up the rotation properly.
Wiring from the #1 Plug cap side picks up the rotation pretty accurately.
The video shows this product in the hand of LeftHandlebar at the time of FZr1000 love car introduction.
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Wiring tools and parts required
I used it for CYGNUSX (1YP2).
The LEDBlinker worked fine. The point to note is to use 3 poles and to take Earth without fail.
I think it is a good product with excellent cost although the wiring needs to be processed.
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Sequential is good
I bought it because it's not a white surface for OEM with a Fender Eliminator
I'm still satisfied with the amount of light in the daytime, unlike the cheap ones
EMark for peace of mind
Resistance is mandatory for SC77
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Anyway, I chose Digital because it's cheap and easy to read
I was looking for an inexpensive and easy to read Tachometer, and when I looked for it, I found koso (KN Planning) I bought a Digital meter from Pulse, which is an IGCoil wound Wiring The Plus line has a blinker relay on the back of the headlight in the case of JA44 I used ETC Antenna Bracket for the installation of meter part I bought it and installed it, and it can only display in 100 rpm increments, but it has a warning of A shift is light The speed can be set, so I think the cost is good View detail
There is convenience
I attached it to BirdCity 155, but how to wrap is special ? The setting should be 1500 to 1700. line (code) Is short. View detail
It is X10 display, but ...
It is X10 display of 4 digit display part.
If it is 2000 RPM, 200 will be displayed.
However, the smallest unit to pick up the revolution is 100 RPM.
If you can gradually open Axel from 2000 RPM, the display will change from 210 → 220 → 230 ... instead of 200 → 201 → 202.
In other words, the display of the most Right Side is fixed at 0.
There is no problem in grasping the number of revolutions to Large miscellaneous, but it may be a bit usable as Carburetor's Setup.
I will not write it, so I will write it down..
And, depending on the angle of attachment, it becomes hard to see by reflection.
Let's adjust it to an easy-to-see angle.
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Fairly
I added Color to old bws 125 and use it
Apart from BodySize
As bright as a Blinker
Of course it works well enough
It will be Sharp feeling
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Blinker's high flasher prevention!
To exchange Blinker for LEDs, we purchased and exchanged for High flasher prevention.
Both price and Size are reasonable.
Even now 3 months after replacement it does not malfunction and it operates normally, so you can purchase with confidence!
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![KOSO Mini3 Digital Air Fuel Ratio Meter [Yamaha]](https://global.webike-cdn.net/photo/impression/29/29b595afeca9f916231ed0f2d181c37eL.jpg)
Fits: YAMAHA CYGNUS X, YAMAHA CYGNUS X
As a guide for Setting
I changed the Exhaust System and set it up on the Sub computer, but I wanted a visible standard because it was Setting with sense only. When considering installation of the air-fuel ratio meter in various ways, most of the things that weld the boss by drilling holes in the Exhaust System were mostly used, but there was a Meter that measures the air-fuel ratio using the OEMO 2 Sensor made by KOSO To purchase
【Items】
- The Harness length of MeterBody is 570 mm, SensorHarness (Intermediate Harness) Is as long as 1210 mm
- Black patch attached to Meter's Left. I thought it was a Button, it was just decoration
- It seems like Waterproof Specification when looking at the standards, so do not worry about sudden rain. However, it is not Completely Waterproof so it is not flooded
- It was so poor that the Loop side of the attached Magic tape was really M3, so I just replaced it with another Magic tape only on the Loop side as it was scratched just peeling from the mount
【attachment】
- Taiwan Manufacturer's Meter, but since it mediates the import agency, Instruction Manual translates (fill in here. Installation is also easy work to take Plus and Minus. If it matches even the Coupler shape of O2Center, it can be attached to other models. Worst, replacing Coupler with fingering Wiring extends the corresponding model
- Since SensorHarness was long, it was not used, and the connection Harness which was separated from the O2 Sensor side Coupler and newly rebuilt (For O2 Sensor) Transplanted to
- If Wiring's Size from Meter is 0. Since it was as thin as 2 sq, we used the same thin coupler as the O 2 Sensor side. The power source was diverted from the Harness of the Temp meter that was attached earlier
- I fought variously for Wiring, but it started up without problems with key ON. If you finger it, please take self responsibility.
【accuracy】
- Checking Meter after Engine warms up. Numeric values ??range from Idling to 12. It is going up or down near 5, and when it is AxelOFF it is displayed as thin as 16 ~ 17. When stopping the Engine and looking closer to the Exhaust System, the odor of waste gas gave rise to the nose and the eyes also grazed, so it seems that it is dark
- I tried running without correcting Sub computer. As I opened Axel and accelerated, the numerical value remained unchanged from 12. 2 and a deep numerical value was pointing, but when I tried running, it got steady and it changed quickly 13 to 16. Of course, Axel is fixed
- Next, we will change the Plus correction to Base, the medium rotation range to Minus, and aim at the economic air fuel ratio. When running, the numerical value is 14. It became thin and became stable as 7 to 16, but it is still severe even if you switch it as soon as possible to make it a guide if you can not boil down a little more. Exhaust gas odor from the exhaust system also became thin
【Review】
- In the information examined beforehand, there were many writes that the numerical value did not stabilize, but since it was unexpectedly stable, it was Big Li. Just being stable was up to 13 dense cases, and conversely if it was 13 or more the number would change to RoseRose. Since OEMO 2 Sensor is used, the figures are approximate, but it may be good for setting judgment
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Universal nature is good.
Buy DAYTONA MOTO GPS to make it a Handlebar Mounting. Plate can be drilled to match MOTO GPS and Plate and Clamp can be separated even when not in use (I need a lot of power) So, MOTO GPS and Plate are always on, the clamp section is attached to the car body side.
Even with the MOTO GPS and Plate attached, you can install it to the Bracket for MOTO GPS Car as it is without so much umbrella. However, since Material is Plastic, I do not know how much durability it is, so I purchased another one for spare.
Drilling etc.. Because processing can be done easily, I think Universal property is good.
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Necessary and sufficient
When attached to GB 250 Type 4, the Relay Body and the Inner fender will contact each other.
I wonder if it will break down with vibration.
I think that the product itself is solidly made.
Case was translucent of Smoke, and the foundation of inside was transparent.
Since Wiring for the attached 3-pole has a flat terminal of L-Type, it is regrettable that a strange Tension will be applied no matter how ingenuous the connection with Relay is.
Wiring can be made a little longer, or if it is a flat terminal of type I, it can be solved, but once it is installed it will not move, so it will be durable Large as it is.
Since it is singing LED correspondence, it can correspond also to the Upgrade of the future Blinker and if it comes with RelayBody and Wiring with Connector at this price, you can say that Cost performance is high.
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