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Product Detail
Specification
[Contents/Specifications]・Bracket section made of A7075 (Strongest Super Duralumin) with left and right sets treated with alumite coating.
・Lifting collar made of A2017 with 4 pieces.
・Trial universal stabilizer brace (bridge section) 1 piece
・12 bolts and 4 nuts (chromium molybdenum steel, trivalent white plated or trivalent black plated) for each connection
Description
We were going to release a set with a low fender, but our customers said, 'We don't need fenders because we are going to put them on the stock high fender', 'We just want rigidity, so we only want a stabilizer', and 'We have trial fenders', so we decided to release them separately.
The stabilizer brace (bridge) is a universal product for trials, so most of the fenders for trial bikes (four fenders) can be installed.
Some people put low fenders on the stock fender or cut off the front of the low fenders.
When installed, the rigidity of the front area is dramatically increased.
Safe and secure.
Sorry it's so bulky.
There is a reason.
It is much easier to put the front tire on the line you want than with stock.
It does not sway when entering a corner at high speed, braking on a downhill, steering on a good grip surface or on rocky terrain.
It is strong for trial-like riding and downhill, reducing the feeling of unease.
It is very responsive and easy to correct on flat dirt roads, winding roads, public roads, and highways.
The stability, especially on highways, has been well received.
Stabilizer parts (braces, bridging parts) are aluminum color. Black. Red (mixed type with white logo).
■Stabilizer set Installation method
If there is a large protrusion on the fork outer bracket fastening portion (early models), please file it down and align it.
There is no need to file if the protrusion is around the size in the images.
Temporarily tighten the bracket under the fork boot.
There is no left or right side, but when assembled at KITAMURA, the KITAMURA seal is placed on the right.
The higher arch of the stabilizer brace is in front.
The collar is inserted and the braces are temporarily tightened.
Tighten the bracket after making sure that each part is centered so that the gap between the front and rear brackets is the same.
Bracket part (bottom, horizontal direction, split tightening) 5N-m is sufficient.
Brace section (longitudinal) 7N-m min.
Tighten it hard and it will be fine.
It didn't loosen even with aggressive riding, but it shifted slightly when we had a hard fall.
We think that's about right.
For those who do not have a torque wrench, we recommend the Astro Products plate type.
Like the digital LCD type, you can see the torque during tightening.
Very inexpensive.
You will never find yourself with a dead battery.
We use this type in our workshop as much as the digital type.
At 5N-m, it is only a fraction of one scale.
When increasing the fork inner protrusion or at full stroke, the shaded area behind the fender will be hit.
(For this reason, arched stabilizers (braces) are used to provide as much clearance as possible.
With flat stabilizer, the head of the bolt of the bulk collar is too high and hits the back of the fender, while there is no clearance with the tire.)
It won't hit if you cut it with a saw.
One of the ways to divert SEROW250 stock fender 2 (mudguard).
Cut off the sides that cause mud clogging.
Place and mark the stabilizer and make a hole of at least 5mm for fastening the bolt.
Fasten with the supplied M5 x 12 bolts and serrated flange nuts.
Note: The four holes for attaching the fender to the stabilizer (brace) are originally holes of slightly less than 5mm (4.8mm) for riveting, but many people attach it with M5 bolts.
If you screw it in as it is, it may be a little hard, but it will go in while grinding.
Screw it in.Or, use a 5mm drill to widen the holes before attaching.
Replacing the Yamaha Lanza stock front fender (4GY-21511-00) with no fender 2 attached.
The fender 2 is not used (even without stabilizers) because it tends to clog with mud, and only the long back fender (mud guard) is used.
Those who race or ride on muddy roads often replace them.
Please purchase if you want to use low fenders (for trial bikes).
A small amount of red WAKOs grease is applied to the screw eye holes to prevent galling during assembly.
The bolts are as long as possible to avoid stress concentration and to prevent the bracket and bolts from bending and digging into the fork, so that the structure is rigid even when lightly tightened.
The split tightening section is 5 N・m.
Tightening the bracket too hard will distort the outer suspension and cause poor suspension movement, as well as damaging bushings and oil seals.
Do not tighten the bracket section containing these parts too tightly.This area was not originally designed to be tightened.
Overtightening will cause it to break."
In order to reduce the tightening torque of the split bolts, rigid chromium-moly steel (strength class 10.9) flanged (large seat surface) half-threaded (threaded from the middle) bolts are used.
Before fastening the stabilizers, clamp the front wheels tightly between your legs from the front of the bike and pry the handlebars.Easy to twist.After fastening, it does not move at all.
Please refer to the video.
SEROW225, 250, Tricker, XT250X are not rigid around the front due to their structure.
The axle shaft diameter is only 15mm, and the shaft ends are not held with a split clamp (i.e., the shaft being held by the clamp), but only tightened.
The steering area is also slender and the rigidity of the front area is very low.
We have tried to increase the rigidity of my SEROW225 as much as possible by tightening the axle shafts more than the specified torque, using stabilizers that used to be available on the market, and various other devices.
We was not able to ride on the line we wanted like a trial bike on downhill, was afraid of swaying, and felt the ground was far away from me.
With the current stabilizer, the rigidity is satisfactory.
You will understand when you use it.
The stabilizer brace (bridge) is a universal product for trials, so most of the fenders for trial bikes (four fenders) can be installed.
Some people put low fenders on the stock fender or cut off the front of the low fenders.
When installed, the rigidity of the front area is dramatically increased.
Safe and secure.
Sorry it's so bulky.
There is a reason.
It is much easier to put the front tire on the line you want than with stock.
It does not sway when entering a corner at high speed, braking on a downhill, steering on a good grip surface or on rocky terrain.
It is strong for trial-like riding and downhill, reducing the feeling of unease.
It is very responsive and easy to correct on flat dirt roads, winding roads, public roads, and highways.
The stability, especially on highways, has been well received.
Stabilizer parts (braces, bridging parts) are aluminum color. Black. Red (mixed type with white logo).
■Stabilizer set Installation method
If there is a large protrusion on the fork outer bracket fastening portion (early models), please file it down and align it.
There is no need to file if the protrusion is around the size in the images.
Temporarily tighten the bracket under the fork boot.
There is no left or right side, but when assembled at KITAMURA, the KITAMURA seal is placed on the right.
The higher arch of the stabilizer brace is in front.
The collar is inserted and the braces are temporarily tightened.
Tighten the bracket after making sure that each part is centered so that the gap between the front and rear brackets is the same.
Bracket part (bottom, horizontal direction, split tightening) 5N-m is sufficient.
Brace section (longitudinal) 7N-m min.
Tighten it hard and it will be fine.
It didn't loosen even with aggressive riding, but it shifted slightly when we had a hard fall.
We think that's about right.
For those who do not have a torque wrench, we recommend the Astro Products plate type.
Like the digital LCD type, you can see the torque during tightening.
Very inexpensive.
You will never find yourself with a dead battery.
We use this type in our workshop as much as the digital type.
At 5N-m, it is only a fraction of one scale.
When increasing the fork inner protrusion or at full stroke, the shaded area behind the fender will be hit.
(For this reason, arched stabilizers (braces) are used to provide as much clearance as possible.
With flat stabilizer, the head of the bolt of the bulk collar is too high and hits the back of the fender, while there is no clearance with the tire.)
It won't hit if you cut it with a saw.
One of the ways to divert SEROW250 stock fender 2 (mudguard).
Cut off the sides that cause mud clogging.
Place and mark the stabilizer and make a hole of at least 5mm for fastening the bolt.
Fasten with the supplied M5 x 12 bolts and serrated flange nuts.
Note: The four holes for attaching the fender to the stabilizer (brace) are originally holes of slightly less than 5mm (4.8mm) for riveting, but many people attach it with M5 bolts.
If you screw it in as it is, it may be a little hard, but it will go in while grinding.
Screw it in.Or, use a 5mm drill to widen the holes before attaching.
Replacing the Yamaha Lanza stock front fender (4GY-21511-00) with no fender 2 attached.
The fender 2 is not used (even without stabilizers) because it tends to clog with mud, and only the long back fender (mud guard) is used.
Those who race or ride on muddy roads often replace them.
Please purchase if you want to use low fenders (for trial bikes).
A small amount of red WAKOs grease is applied to the screw eye holes to prevent galling during assembly.
The bolts are as long as possible to avoid stress concentration and to prevent the bracket and bolts from bending and digging into the fork, so that the structure is rigid even when lightly tightened.
The split tightening section is 5 N・m.
Tightening the bracket too hard will distort the outer suspension and cause poor suspension movement, as well as damaging bushings and oil seals.
Do not tighten the bracket section containing these parts too tightly.This area was not originally designed to be tightened.
Overtightening will cause it to break."
In order to reduce the tightening torque of the split bolts, rigid chromium-moly steel (strength class 10.9) flanged (large seat surface) half-threaded (threaded from the middle) bolts are used.
Before fastening the stabilizers, clamp the front wheels tightly between your legs from the front of the bike and pry the handlebars.Easy to twist.After fastening, it does not move at all.
Please refer to the video.
SEROW225, 250, Tricker, XT250X are not rigid around the front due to their structure.
The axle shaft diameter is only 15mm, and the shaft ends are not held with a split clamp (i.e., the shaft being held by the clamp), but only tightened.
The steering area is also slender and the rigidity of the front area is very low.
We have tried to increase the rigidity of my SEROW225 as much as possible by tightening the axle shafts more than the specified torque, using stabilizers that used to be available on the market, and various other devices.
We was not able to ride on the line we wanted like a trial bike on downhill, was afraid of swaying, and felt the ground was far away from me.
With the current stabilizer, the rigidity is satisfactory.
You will understand when you use it.
Caution
*If there is a large protrusion on the fork outer bracket fastening portion (early models), please file it off and align it.*Tightening the bracket too hard will distort the outer suspension and cause poor suspension movement, as well as damaging bushings and oil seals.Do not tighten the bracket section containing these parts too tightly.This area was not originally designed to be tightened.
*If you use enduro tires with height and width like IRC IX-09W (for racing only), you will be on the edge.If you ride in a race or in a muddy area with such tires as standard specification, mud will clog the fender and the sides will tear.Since the standard front tire size of SEROW is 2.75-21, the clearance between the under-bracket (three-lobed bracket), the stabilizer and the tire is originally narrow, so it is necessary to make some adjustments when installing a tire with more height and width.(For this purpose, arched stabilizers are used.)
*The image may contain other products.
*There may be changes in product specifications due to the manufacturer's reasons.
