Reviews
Used with Babyface Change lever
The change lever of Babyface is divided into two parts, and the Flat Cap Boltm6 12mm is tightened by Screw lock+tightening the specified Torque.:2pc. We used a set to connect the two, but since it came off while driving, we thought it would be best to use a double nut stop, and since the reverse side of the lever would be tight with 12mm, we installed a longer 20mm and then fixed this product to the reverse side.
Nut texture is good and 4mm thin is the only one I know of.
If it were a little cheaper, it would help.
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Thinnest lock nut known
The change lever of Babyface is divided into two parts, and the Flat Cap Boltm6 12mm is tightened by Screw lock+tightening the specified Torque.:2pc. The set was used to connect the two, but because it came off while driving, we thought it would be best to use a double nut to stop the nut, so we installed a longer 20mm nut than the 12mm nut that would be used for the double nut to fix the set.
This Nut is as thin as 4mm and with Lock.
It cannot be Torqueed strongly, but it is a very effective product.
Is it expensive?
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Many color variations available
A wide variety of color variations are available, making it easy to match the color of the car body.
The price was inexpensive and helpful.
The texture is perfect.
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This is the only m6Lock nut that is thin.
The change lever of Babyface is divided into two parts, and the Flat Cap Boltm612mm is tightened by Screw lock+tightening the specified Torque.:2pc. The set was used to connect the two, but since it came off while driving, we thought it would be best to use double nut fasteners, so we used the included 12mm to make the reverse side of the lever tight, so we used the longer 20mm to penetrate and installed this product.
Nut texture is good.
As far as I know, this is the only thin 4mm of m6Nut.
But it would help if it were a little cheaper.
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Step up from SteelScrew!
[How is it used?
Screw was replaced with external Fender, so Screw was changed from Steel to Material:Replaced with Stainless Steel.
Was the one you received as per Image?
Quality is as good as the Image.
Was the installation difficult?
Installation is easy as the SteelScrew is simply replaced.
How was your experience with it?
Fender is often exposed to moisture, so the replacement was made in consideration of durability, but it can be used without worrying about rust, so it is a sense of security.
[Included Parts:were they on?
No other than Screw.
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
The NORMAL Screw is slightly rounded, but this is a dish Screw, so the shape is slightly different.
▼I'm afraid of biting, but I think it is better than Steel rusting.
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I don't know if it will fit, but I bought it anyway.
I don't know if it will fit, but I bought it anyway. View detail
Convenient to make it the same color as OEMHarness.
It is convenient to unify the Minus power supply system and Earth system of the retrofit attachments with the Earth system of Kawasaki OEM Harness, Black/Yellow. View detail
Convenient to match the Wiring color of OEMHarness.
It would be helpful to be able to make the color of WhiteHarness, which is equivalent to the Batch+ after the KawasakiOEMHarness junction box, and the Batch+ of the retrofit Attachment, the same White. View detail
Convenient to align the retrofit Attachment Power Line with the same color as the OEM
It is convenient to match the color of the OEM ACC power supply with the color of the ACC linked power supply of the retrofit Electric Attachment.
If I simply make it Red, it is Large strange to chase whether it is Badda-nai or not.
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For everyday use
I bought this for regular use for Repair because the Throttle Wire on my old Motorcycle broke and OEM Parts were out of business and there was nothing I could do about it.
Screw lock was used for the Thailandoko fixing Screw, and the Thailandoko was fixed Firmly with a Solder at the root of the Thailandoko.
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6V For compatibility with Large type terminals that supply power to MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The car body was stored in a high humidity environment, so it was also battered by corrosion, but the humidity also entered the inside of the Harness and corroded the core wire in the cord, which was also battered.
Cut the damaged part, create a new Harness, and make a new Connector.
In the end, we had to redo the connector as the center of the connector, because moisture would penetrate and corrode from the area where it is crimped by the terminals in the connector.
When redoing a Connector, play it back in the existing Connector whenever possible.
It's a method of removing corroded terminals from a Connector and replacing only the terminals.
However, if the terminals are corroded, conduction resistance is created and heat is generated, which may cause the ConnectorBody to burn or melt.
Pinch especially Large-type Connectors with Large current flow when they are corroded.
So, this Connector, which is the source of the Large that supplies Battery power to 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, was looking a bit iffy, so we replaced it with a new one.
Since it is a standardized product, it is fully interchangeable, and even if it is necessary to replace the harness again for some reason in the future, it can be interchanged without a hitch.
The milk-white Connectors seem to have a tendency to crack over time due to heat and UV rays, but the milk-white OEM Connectors have withstood 30 years without cracking, so I am sure this one will be large and durable.
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Good texture and usability
The Front Fender of CRF250RLY50 is very low front, so when I run Course and other aggressive driving, the front tire and the Front Fender contact each other at the Full Bottom. I use this 5mm Spacer on the rear two of the four Fender fixing points to change the angle.
It's very good.
The strength and precision are perfect.
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High quality and value for money
I used this to adjust the angle of Windshield of CRF250RALLY50. I put a 25mm Spacer on it and it looks good. If it is longer than 25mm, it will be a problem to fix the screen, so 25mm is the limit.
The beautiful anodized black color of KITACO's aluminum spacer blends well with the black of the OEM front cowl stay of the CRF250RLY50.
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The main point is that the outer diameter is larger than that of a regular collar.
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The footpeg was made by Menani, but it was too battered, so we used parts from various manufacturers that we managed to put together to form the footpeg.
However, when I installed it, the footpeg mount on the frame side seems to be distorted only on the Right Side, and it slightly goes too far inside the vehicle body.
Left has about 5mm gap between footpeg and Swing Arm, but Right has only about 2mm...
As expected, it was too narrow, so we tried to optimize it by inserting a 3mm-thick Spacer between the footpeg and the Frame.
That is fine, but the contact area with the footpeg was small because the outer diameter of the spacer is a normal size.
I don't know what's wrong with that, but it bothered me, so I exchanged it for a Spacer with a larger outer diameter!
That is the product here.
The difference is slight.
However, those who laugh at it as slight are not qualified to talk about Tuning...so I feel good!
In fact, if you replace the Spacer only on the One Side, you will feel more like you are EXACTLY doing it.
I don't see anyone doing that.
The increased contact area should have increased the rigidity of the installation, but nothing can be felt.
Well, it's OK because it's self-satisfying.
The performance of Spacer itself is perfect.
Some hard Material (maybe in the 6000's based on machinability and Anodized's coloring? Mystery) and smooth surface.
0.It would be very nice to be able to purchase 1pc. units of Spacer for use on car bodies, unless there is a need for accuracy in 1mm increments!
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for BlinkerBullet Type Terminal replacement
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
The 900SL (900SS is the same) has a front blinker embedded in the cowl, which is unusual for a sports type motorbike, and is connected to the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness with a Bullet Type Terminal. The front blinker is embedded in the cowl, which is unusual for a sports type motorbike.
However, the Connector uses not only the Bullet Type Terminal, but also an ultra-thin Flat Terminal to connect the BlinkerBody to the Harness.
This is the same as the Flat Terminal of the stop lamp switch used in the front master cylinder, and is an example of a terminal that can break off if handled carelessly.
Bullet Type Terminals can be very difficult to remove when fitted tightly.
When pulling in a narrow cowl, it is easy to pull Wiring as hard as you can with the momentum of the pull out.
If the momentum breaks the ultra-thin terminal that connects to the BlinkerBody, it will be Large strange!
Parts are still available, but they are expensive (nearly $10,000 for One Side) and we must try not to break them!
That's where this Connector comes in.
The original Bullet Terminal is left in place and a very short Connection Connector is made, and the 110-type Connector is used for connection and disconnection.
This way, the valuable Blinker body is not destroyed because it does not require monstrous strength to pull it out.
In this case, it is a non-polarized part, so it is fine, but this Connector is not reversible, so it is also ideal for parts that require polarity.
You can make a lot of progress just by stopping Bullet Terminal and using this Connector!
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Change it often!
It was about to be torn off due to aging, so we replaced it. I would recommend replacing it regularly every few years because it is inexpensive and anyone can replace it quickly! View detail
GALE SPEED's Radipon's TankNipple's Angle conversion
The GALE SPEED radipon only comes with a TankNipple with Straight and no 90-degrees in Option, though,
for Rear with Angle can be fitted with this AngleNipple.
They are sold in the supplemental parts and can be ordered.
I wrote it here because I can't do imprints on ordered products.
Well, they are essentially the same thing, right?
The Snap ring can be installed, but the Rib part is slightly thinner than the Nipple for Front, so the Snap ring will rotate round and round if the Rib is left as it is. (No exclusions will be made) 。
I have not tried it, but it seems that substituting Nipple for Front for Rear is not possible.
If the O-ring is not old, it is Large sturdy, but you are on your own if you install it.
Hose is normal! Hose clamp is included. The inside diameter is not clear, but it is for brembo etc...
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The quality is good and can be used without problems!
Active (ACTIVE) I purchased this product for Repair because I damaged the Electro Tap of my company's LEDNumberSIDEBlinker. It works fine and the quality is good! As with all Electro Tap products, it is not waterproof at all, so please use it in a place where it will not be exposed to water! View detail
For mounting bolt on Generator cover
I bought it for mounting bolt of Generator cover of CUB series Engine.
The bolt under the Left is the same length, but the main reason I purchased this bolt is because the OEM bolt here is stuck in the back, so it is difficult to insert the tool.
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To hide the hexagonal hole
Plating was peeling and falling apart, so the
Purchased to replace
It looks pretty shiny.
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