Reviews
Recommended Front Suspension UpgradeParts
I asked Shop to do the installation.
If I can remove the top cap, I may be able to do the work myself. Since I will be using it in a mini circuit, I would like to change the oil viscosity depending on the time of year, so I am thinking of trying this at some point.
YSS recommends viscosity No. 30, but it is too hard for my 60kg weight! So, I use Yamaha's No. 15 for now in winter, and it feels good.
Balance is good as it is now with YSS front and back.
I can recommend it.
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It was new but contained used.
There are no performance problems with the product.
I'm glad I bought it
However, there was a slight lick mark on one side of the Initial Adjuster from turning it with a hex.
Obviously, it is used.
Was it for returned goods?
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Large changes until you can aim at Setting.
I used it on a CBR650F...Before Impression...although the stock information stated that I would receive it in a short period of time, when I placed the order, the delivery time was extended to several weeks and months, and in the end it took almost 3 months to receive it.
I understand that there are some reasons, such as the product does not sell well, or the distributor does not have it in stock because it is imported, but if it takes time, I wish they would have mentioned that it takes time.
Product Contents include Spring, ForkValve, Color, Top cap (with damping adjustment), Fork oil (small quantity) Quantity:The top cap alone costs about 10,000 yen,
Considering ForkValve 10,000 yen and Spring 10,000 yen, is this what the price is? I think it's about the same price.
In addition to the items shown in the picture (Preload Adjuster, Exclusive Collar, Exclusive Spring, PD Valve, PD Valve is the key of this product), Instruction Manual etc. and YSS Fork oil No. 20 are included. The capacity of this oil is not enough to replace the oil in the Single Body. I would like to see the price of this product lowered a little without including it.
In addition, the viscosity of YSS's Fork oil (40°C) is quite firm, at 99.4mm2.s.
For example, Honda's Fork oil No. 10 as OEM compliant is 34.7, so you can see how hard it is.
In fact, the kinematic viscosity of fork oil varies so widely from manufacturer to manufacturer that it is not uncommon to find that Company B's No. 10 is harder than Company A's No. 20.
I was worried about the hardness of YSS's fork oil because it was too different, and I also thought the fork oil itself was too expensive, so I prepared KYB's No. 15.
...Yeah, I didn't realize I made a mistake here.
When it came time to replace the oil, we realized that one bottle of KYB Fork oil was not enough, as it is 600ml. I ended up having to buy another bottle, which was expensive.
The fork oil comes with only 250ml as an adjustable amount, but of course it is not enough for a full change of 650F, and if you buy yss fork oil, 1 liter is enough.
If so, I'd like to see the price lowered without including this.
Dustcloth becomes pure black.
The valve should be loosened once to make sure it is firmly set to the specified value. 2 revolutions from the beginning of the pre-road engagement is the specified value.
Spring rate is 7.0-11.5N.
Considering that the OHLINS for 650F is 7.5 and the Scuder RearOkumura's MESUPER SPORTS750 is 8.3, the numbers are reasonable...?
It would be best if I knew the NORMAL Rate, but I couldn't find it there.
However, in NORMAL mode, the Front is too soft and moves in a nimble manner, while the Rear is too rigid and does not seem to move at all. (Of course, it does move slightly.)
Therefore, the direction is hard in the front and soft in the rear....
The PD Valve, depending on the model, may require an extra hole in the seat pipe to reduce the resistance on the compression side, but the kit for the 650F did not include such instructions, so I installed it as is.
The PD Valve has a Route, which is tensioned by Orifice + Spring that opens when pressure exceeds a certain level, on the retracted side, and a Shim with a weaker Spring on the extended side.
Since the seat pipe is unmodified, it basically means that the resistance is increased in the NORMAL oil path.
The weight of the resistance on the contraction is the Spring rate. The resistance on the extension side is auxiliary and can be seen as almost unchanged at about the Shim of the PDValve.
On the shrinking side, there is a small orifice that seems to pass through when resistance is weak, but when excessively large pressure is applied to it, the spring is pushed open and released from the center.
It's a way of increasing resistance in areas where it doesn't originally exist in NORMAL.
However, as far as I can see, the orifice has only one hole, and I wonder if this will cause the Spring side to open immediately if just a little resistance is applied...?
Maybe we can raise Spring's Tension...
I actually replaced it and ran it for a bit.
The front seems to have become a little harder due to the change in rate. I have an impression that the front has become a little stiffer due to the change in the rate.
After assembly, we headed out for a test run. We went to Hakone for a test run in the city and for a light winding.
At this point, the fluffy feeling felt by the OEM is gone.
I thought it looked good without bottoming out.
And the other day I ran about 440 km round trip.
I think the PD Valve thickness is offset by the Exclusive Collar........ I think it's either that or the PD Valve thickness is offset by the Exclusive Collar....
But if the Oil is too hard, it seems like the PD Valve shim will open up and flow...
In the meantime, I would like to see Timing and change the Fork oil to something softer.
This product is only Setting parts. It is not something that can be just popped on and done. It is not something that can be simply popped on.
I think since I took the time to decide on the Setting
I think it is not bad if you consider that the cosmetics are good and that there are more parts that can be set.
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We hope that GSX-R125User on the Circuit will find it useful!
It is supposed to be for GSX-R150, but I bought it for GSX-R125 because the distributor's website said it was for both 150 and 125. As a result, I was able to install it without any problem.
I also purchased this product as a Circuit Running and am satisfied with its perfect performance.
The installation process is a piece of cake if you have ever done a Fork oil change. Even if you have never done it before, you can do it if you have some tools. We recommend that you change the fork oil while doing the work.
The top cap of the fork is not screwed on like the FOR JAPAN MODEL production type, but only stopped by a C-ring using the force of the fork spring, so it requires a bit of hang, but as shown in the photo, it can be removed quite easily by using a Tie Down Belt and TWrench, etc. However, it can be easily detached by using a Tie Down Belt and TWrench as shown in the photo, or by preparing a 3-way Vise.
The Instruction Manual for the product is very unfriendly, but it seems to recommend an OilLevel of 125mm, so you will need about 200cc or less of Fork oil on the One Side when replacing. Also, although Fork Oil No. 30 is included in the package, it is not recommended to use Fork Oil No. 30. Use this with a Single Body. I don't think that's the case (it's only 250cc so it will run out after only One Side). I think the OEM No. 10 has enough viscosity, so you can mix No. 30 to your liking.
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At the same time as Overhaul
As I mentioned in my diary, the installation is done at the same time as the Fork Overhaul, which requires special tools and skills, and takes a lot of gold and time if you do it yourself.
But it works:unlike the OEM's bulky suspension, it has more waist and tracks better on the road.
The performance is quite high.
It would be nice to replace it while doing Overhaul.
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Worth the price.
Ninja250SL/The OEMFork of the Z250SL is not the most comfortable to ride on the street, as it is soft and has a thrust to it that comes back to you during cornering. Still, the light weight of the vehicle can be deceiving. "I think I'll leave it as OEM - I'll just add a Preload Adjuster..." However, I took the plunge and purchased the Upgrade Kit, partly because I had replaced the Rear suspension with YSS.
For installation, since the fork cap is a C-ring type, an SST with a portion of the clamp cut off is required, but anyone who can change the fork oil can install it themselves.
In case of PD ValveUnit Purchase, many models require orifice modification, but in case of Z250SL, for some reason, there is no description about orifice modification even in Instruction Manual. Large enough to have little or no damping.
Normally, it is necessary to cut the collar for the PD Valve, but the Upgrade Kit comes with a pre-cut collar, so this work is not necessary. It is a hassle to cut the collars horizontally, so it is good that you can install the collars by yourself as long as you can remove the fork caps.
The kit included 30W Fork oil, and the instructions were to put in 300ml each. However, reading some of my predecessors' blogs, etc., I found that some people were installing the kit with the OEM specified 10-15W and the specified amount (about 350ml), so I tried setting it with the latter for the time being. If I feel it bottoms out or is too soft, I will change it to 30W.
The first thing you'll notice when you install it is It's kind of softening." I thought it would be harder because of the Reinforcement Spring, but it was softer in the beginning, and the thrust when riding on the street was drastically reduced and the ride quality was improved.
I went touring with it and attacked the descent of a certain Tsubaki Pass quite seriously, but it held firm against sudden braking and did not bottom out, allowing me to attack with confidence. Even a high degree of freedom in line taking is now even freer. No one rides this Motorcycle and says it can't turn. Cornering has become so much easier that it seems to be.
I also drove Izusuka after that, and to begin with, Izusuka with 250 is not fun because even if you are always at full throttle, you are left behind by the litters, but even at high speed cornering, the front does not come back during cornering, so the line is perfectly set and very comfortable. Of course, since it is an SL, the line can be changed freely even from full bank, but anyway, the increased sense of ground contact of the front gives me a feeling of security.
Preload AdjusterSingle Body was about 10,000, so 35,000 is a good price considering it includes PD Valve and Reinforcement Spring. I think it is worth it. If you are not sure about the price, you will not regret installing it.
The only drawback is that the PD Valve damping adjustment can only be made by draining the Fork oil and removing the PD Valve under the Spring. Although this is unavoidable due to the system of retrofit damping adjustment, the C-ring type top cap is troublesome to remove and install, so I only do it when I change the fork oil, and I do not feel like removing the fork and adjusting it again just because it is a little different after driving.
If you change the front and rear suspension and put on high grip tires around α13-SP It's hard to fall over on a public road unless you're doing it on purpose. It will be a CorneringMachine that makes you feel like you are a part of the world. It makes touring fun because you have a sense of security that you can definitely turn, and you may think that you have become good at it, but be careful, because just because it is a motorcycle that anyone can turn does not mean that you have become good at it.
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Worth the price.
I was interested in the PD Valve because the OEMFork of the Z250SL is too soft and it comes back undulating during cornering, but I was hesitant because orifice machining and cutting of the color seems to be troublesome.
I thought about adding only the Preload Adjuster, but then I thought that 35,000 yen including the Reinforcement Spring might not be too expensive.
In the case of Z250SL, if you have a kill to remove the C-ring on the fork top and can change the fork oil, you can install it without any problem.
The advantage of the Kit is that no orifice machining is required? and that the kit comes with a collar that is shorter than the OEM collar, so there is no need to modify it yourself. I thought I would have to modify the orifice anyway, but the instruction manual says that I only need to fit the PD Valve straight to the fork bottom, not to fully reverse the Fork. However, I have seen some people running Ninja 250SL on the Circuit who have modified the orifice, so it is a bit of a mystery, but at least there are no instructions for modification in the Instruction Manual.
When I installed it, it was softer than I expected. Is this really going to attenuate?" But when I started riding out, I was surprised. The ride quality was much better, with less thrust and better road-following performance when riding around town.
Even when fully braked, the bottom doesn't stick out, and the fork doesn't return excessively even when plunging into a high speed corner, so the line is drumstick-set. If you know the Camellia, you will understand the confidence in the suspension when I say that I was able to attack the downhill of the Camellia without any worries.
Since the Z does not run on a circuit, if you consider it for city driving and touring use, I think the parts give you the satisfaction that is worth the price.
There is only one drawback:the PD Valve is a part that is placed under the Spring in the Fork, so if you want to adjust the damping, you have to pull out the Oil and take out the Valve. This is unavoidable because of the retrofitted damping, but it would be nice to be able to adjust it on the car.
If you are a Ninja 250SL or Z250SL rider and are not sure about purchasing this Fork Upgrade Kit If the reason not to buy is price, buy. If the reason to buy is price, don't buy." I would like to offer the following words of wisdom. It is possible to adjust the pre-road, so you can kill three birds with one stone (Pre-road, Reinforcement Spring, and PD Valve).
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Initial Adjuster
The shape of the Initial Adjuster is completely different from the picture, and there is no Level for adjustment, so it was difficult to adjust.
In the photo, there is a Level line with Plus screw. In fact, when hardening with 12mmWrench and no Level, it hits the base and cannot be rotated, so it is hard to tell how far it is closed.
It is originally ObjectionLevel.
It also says 20 Oil, but it's actually 15 Oil.
I think they are using the image all over the place.
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Difficult to remove Circlip
Purchased for GSX-R125Circuit Running.
The rear suspension was too stiff and didn't stoke at all, so I replaced it with a YSS kit.
Although I haven't run it yet, I can see the change just from the feeling of stroking it.
Installation was not particularly difficult, except for removing and attaching the Circlip.
OEMs also don't need Impact or Special Tool because they only need to remove Cap, Color, Washer, and Spring without making it all Rose.
The specified oil was #30, but I was scared that it would be too hard, so I decided to use KYB #20. I'm going to run it and see how it goes, and then I'll try the specified oil.
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The result is a reinforced suspension
I installed it on SR400.
The F suspension of SR400 sinks down at once when FBrake is applied strongly.
Control was low and there was a fear that the bottom might fall out.
I thought about changing the oil viscosity and adding a collar, but I thought it would be quicker to replace the spring.
I installed this product.
The result is an Image that is a little too hard.
The sinkage during breaking will be very nice, but it will also increase the sense of thrust.
When you are on a long distance tour, you will feel more tired.
For your reference, the specified oil viscosity at the time of Kit installation is No.20 and the oil level is 150mm.
Includes Top bolt with Preload Adjuster and Damper parts showing the Shim being built in.
I would recommend it for those who are more into driving, but not for those who are more into city driving.
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Is pleased
Basically, I agree with kamayan27, and I'll limit myself to talking about it in Race use.
Brake initial behavior is good, which cannot be handled by changing oil viscosity or oil level.
The lack of spring rate will be eliminated, the Construction Manual says, and Not by volume, but by volume of PD Valve.
Since the oil level will be raised 20mm, you need to adjust the oil level after feeding the Valve.
If the remaining stroke is more than 20mm in the course, the Oil Lock Piece can be used. It is not considered a problem. KYBOil No. 30 with proper elongation and pressure damping.
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It's quite different from NORMAL
The ride quality is much better than the ride without damping force of NORMAL, it's a big difference!
Installation is done in the Instruction Manual (mine is the English version) and The content was different in the YSS Video on YouTube
I feel the price is high from the contents of parts, but there is no other choice in the NMAX155, so I can't help it If you're looking for a change in ride quality, this is the way to go
We recommend that you watch the Video before you buy
https://youtu.be/8MVhrGXIMG0
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I wish I'd bought it sooner! Very good!
Installed on REBEL250
Before the exchange, it was bouncing and undulating at Corner, and Front at the last second to stop at the light I'm going to pull it out or something, and while I don't feel any minor bumps at all, I'm going to jump up and down on rough surfaces I had to be prepared to go faster than that
It sticks and doesn't bounce around, stops at traffic lights and doesn't bounce around on rough surfaces
Large Satisfied! It's like a different motorcycle! I'm assuming you mean "Large"
To install the PD Valve, you need to drill the hole for the ForkCylinder It said it needed to be modified, but I installed it without any modification
With the least amount of pre-road applied, the current riding style is sufficient, but the cornering performance is I'm sure I'll be tweaking the improvements in the future
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Fu Caphka's Normal fork is made firm
When entering a corner, the Brake is slowed down by the fluffy Normal fork with a soft Caphica I introduced the Kit as soon as it was sold because I sometimes find it difficult to ride it
If you have upgraded the Rear, the weakness of the Front will be more pronounced, and the front and rear of the load will be You can compensate for geometric distortions in BirdBalance
The riders were able to feel the roughness of the pavement and the bumps in the road surface and handle the vehicle with confidence It is
Fork Spring went from a NORMAL inequality length to an etc. length, and the Rate became a little bit longer Because it goes up, the pre-road itself is firm even if it is removed Because the specification of Fork oil was not written, I put in C10 of OEM It's a fast returning Touch, so I'm going to have to use the KYB #20 per #20 in the next Fork oil change timings I'd like to try it out
As for the kit, it's an all-in-one kit that simply needs to be reassembled, so it's more affordable than buying it from RoseRose It is
Installation is for those with ForkMaintenance experience
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Very satisfied
First of all, we are installing it on the 125, not the GSX-R150 This is an in-play on that
GSX-R125 has a thin Fork, and if you focus on the stiffness of the Front It's just not dependable
It may be unnecessary if the use is limited to city driving, but Suzuki has seriously And the GSX-R125, a long awaited release (including GSX-R150) Considering this, the main battleground is still the mountain pass if it is a public road
Or, you can be Circuit
I'm completely in RacerSpec. so it's an in-play on Circuit But I honestly thought it was definitely a part that should be installed
The first thing to be noted is its outstanding stability when breaking
The viscosity of Fork oil specified by YSS is the equivalent of 30, so it's not too hard before you start running ? I thought, but I followed the manufacturer's specification first, but I still thought I'm keenly aware that there's a good reason for the number 30 designation
The front of the car is stable even with hard braking 。
The primary turn is front-driven and stable, allowing machine control to be performed at will It is
Oil Viscosity No. 30 is so moist that you can forget that it's also very firm
Before I installed it, the surface of the front tire felt smooth no matter how hard I pushed it (In terms of time, it's in the middle or lower time range of the course.) Once installed, it melted down well and the entire Tire was well loaded
You can also adjust the front pre-road, and in addition to that, you can adjust the rear Quantity of suspension:If the set is also decided, it will definitely become a large weapon
If you use it on public roads, as described earlier, if it's limited to city driving, you can show off Performance! It might not be, but if it's a mountain pass, it's definitely a weapon and will be fun for Corner
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very good
I was a little concerned about the viscosity of the recommended Oil, but I installed it and drove it, and it was Big Li
In NORMAL, I'm even considering introducing something like Steering damper or Stubby I was worried about how it would behave when passing through the Gap, but when I put this product on, I can go without worrying about it like it's a lie!
Gap passage in Corner, especially at speeds from 80 km/h and up, is 1 Rank, or even 2 Rank higher You can attack with so much confidence that you think it's the legs of the Class of
This is a product that can be used not only with the Circuit, but also with the Town Riding Machine to feel the effect It is
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