Reviews
It is quite convenient to have it in Single Body.
I purchased the Racer to make it a public road Spec.
Quantity of electrical components:I could have bought it as a Set, but I bought this one because I can reconfigure it in various ways.
This will bring together the electrical system for the time being.
The terminal connections are in good condition and are securely fastened with Heat Shrink Tubes, so they appear to be water resistant.
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Fits: HONDA Dio (DIO), HONDA Dio cesta (DIO CHESTA), HONDA Dio SR (DIO), HONDA Dio ZX (DIO), HONDA Dio ZX (DIO)
This is usable!
My father's LIVEDio was stolen and the key hole was destroyed while he was parked on his bike, so I installed this product. It works fine, and he is happy because the old key is now new and easy to turn! View detail
For retrofitting electrical systems
I purchased the Racer to make it a public road Spec.
Quantity of electrical components:I could have bought it as a Set, but I bought this one because I can reconfigure it in various ways.
It was a little bit difficult to wire the unit because it was installed from scratch in a vehicle with no safety components. 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness is connected to the main harness, which switches the supply from the power source on and off.
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Large capacity
[How is it used?
Bullet Type Terminals are required for USB power supply and other wiring processes, but of course Bullet Type Terminals are used up.
Quantity:I bought a set of 30pcs. or something like that, but I found that I had no Bullet Type Terminal on hand and had to stop working on it, so I bought Quantity:1 Set of 100pcs.
How was your experience with it?
It is an ordinary Bullet Type Terminal made by Emon, which can be easily obtained at Home center.
100pcsQuantity:Set is not readily available around there, so I purchased it on Webike.
How did it compare to other products?
No specific comparisons were made.
[Points to note]
Sleeve for waterproof is not included, so you need to prepare it separately if necessary.
【Review】
The Large capacity is recommended for those who do a fair amount of DIY Wiring work.
It is better to store them in a 100x box because they may be lost if left in the bag.
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Fits: HONDA XR250, HONDA CRM250R, HONDA CRM250AR, KAWASAKI KLX125, HONDA CRM80, HONDA XR230, HONDA CRF230F, YAMAHA WR250X, YAMAHA WR250R, YAMAHA SEROW250, YAMAHA XG250 TRICKER, SUZUKI DR-Z400SM, SUZUKI DR-Z400S, KAWASAKI KSR110, KAWASAKI D-TRACKER-X, KAWASAKI D Tracker, KAWASAKI KLX250, KAWASAKI D Tracker 125, HONDA CRM50, HONDA CRF250M
I'm not sure about the electrical system, but ….
I purchased the Racer to make it a public road Spec.
Quantity of electrical components:I could have bought it as a Set, but I bought this one because I can reconfigure it in various ways.
These are the Parts that are required when using LEDs with DRC's Kit.
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For ServiceReset
Recent SEA BASS cars have a sign in the meter reminding the driver to change the oil.
I thought the only way to erase it was to have it reset at the shop, but it was easy even for an individual.
The connector hole was too small and the needle gold was too thick to fit in the connector, so I used Emon terminals.
OEMs sell specialized products, but they are expensive, so this was sufficient.
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Convenient to make it the same color as OEMHarness.
It is convenient to unify the Minus power supply system and Earth system of the retrofit attachments with the Earth system of Kawasaki OEM Harness, Black/Yellow. View detail
Convenient to match the Wiring color of OEMHarness.
It would be helpful to be able to make the color of WhiteHarness, which is equivalent to the Batch+ after the KawasakiOEMHarness junction box, and the Batch+ of the retrofit Attachment, the same White. View detail
Convenient to align the retrofit Attachment Power Line with the same color as the OEM
It is convenient to match the color of the OEM ACC power supply with the color of the ACC linked power supply of the retrofit Electric Attachment.
If I simply make it Red, it is Large strange to chase whether it is Badda-nai or not.
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Wiring branch connections are easy and good.
The differences in Cable size and current capacity are easy to recognize depending on the color.
Note that the Cover is divided between the main line side and the branch line side.
*Because the blade directly bites into the sheath for connection, use in locations with a lot of vibration may result in disconnection or poor contact.
*Care should be taken not to reuse the area once used.
It is easier said than done, since the connection can be made with just one pliers....
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Female terminal Cover Only
This is a Female terminal Cover Only product. A separate Female or Male terminal (Male terminal Cover) is required.
Since it is not waterproof, we recommend the purchase of a Waterproof Terminal Set if the connection is to be exposed.
Motorcycle and car Waterproof is rarely seen only in Connector, so I don't think it will be a problem, but it is a good idea to buy it according to your needs.
It is better to have it in Large quantity so that it does not roll around somewhere and disappear because it is a Small item.
Contact between terminals and frames may cause damage to electronic equipment or, in the worst case, cause a fire.
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Reduction in cost with Large volume purchases
Bullet Terminal required for power supply connection for cars and motorcycles.
It is safer to buy more than the required number of units in case of failure.
It is hard to pull out easily when firmly connected, so when pulling it out, grasp the terminal part firmly with a radio pliers or the like.
This product requires Cover and Male terminals as it is Female terminal only.
If you are only going to use a few of them, it is better to buy Bullet Type Terminal Set.
I have never purchased anything other than Emon, so I don't know for sure, but it is best to purchase Male and Female terminals from the same manufacturer.
The Female terminal is recommended to be used on the + (Plus) side since the connection will be covered when the Cover is attached.
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Reduction in cost with Large volume purchases
Bullet Terminal required for power supply connection for cars and motorcycles.
It is safer to buy more than the required number of units in case of failure.
It is hard to pull out easily when firmly connected, so when pulling it out, grasp the terminal part firmly with a radio pliers or the like.
This product is Male terminal only, so Cover and Female terminals are required.
If you are only going to use a few of them, it is better to buy Bullet Type Terminal Set.
I have never purchased anything other than Emon, so I don't know for sure, but it is best to purchase Male and Female terminals from the same manufacturer.
The Male terminal is best used on the ”-(Minus) side because the connection part is exposed even if a Cover is attached.
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Required for Wiring processing
Required Items for connecting Bullet Type Terminal in Wiring
It's priced right, but I think it's necessary and sufficient.
I think it's better to lubricate it because it's not moving well.
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Male terminal Cover Only
This is a Male terminal Cover Only product. Male and Female terminals (Female terminal Cover) are required separately.
Since it is not waterproof, we recommend the purchase of a Waterproof Terminal Set if the connection is to be exposed.
Motorcycle and car Waterproof is rarely seen only in Connector, so I don't think it will be a problem, but it is a good idea to buy it according to your needs.
It is better to have it in Large quantity so that it does not roll around somewhere and disappear because it is a Small item.
Contact between terminals and frames may cause damage to electronic equipment or, in the worst case, cause a fire.
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As a replacement for OEMBlinker relay
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
In this situation, RearBlinker decided to change to ultra-small type LED's for various reasons.
The front is a Cowl recessed type, but since this is part of the body design, it is used as is, and the light bulbs inside are not converted to LEDs, but are left as they are.
This would be a hassle with bulbs in the Front and LEDs in the Rear, but times have evolved and there is now ICRelay, which supports a variety of wattages and makes everything look good.
The problem is replacing that ICRelay with the original Relay.
For ordinary Japanese cars, it is a 2-pole universal layout, so all you have to do is plug in the Conversion Connector that comes with the Relay, but unfortunately, DUCATI is a 3-pole Relay.
In addition, the connector is fixed to the body of the car, and the Relay is inserted into it, which is the opposite arrangement from that of domestic cars.
(For domestic cars, the RelayBody is mounted on the car body, and the Connector extending from the Harness is inserted into it.)
So we decided to disconnect and discard the UniversalConnector (Female side) from Relay and make our own Conversion Connector that would be Male-Male.
After carefully checking the terminal shape of the OEMRelay, I realized that it is the same as the H4Headlight Connector.
So I bought this Kit to create H4Connector.
Although there are a variety of female connectors that can be used with H4 Valve, there are only a few that can be used to create male connectors that reproduce the shape of the Valve.:Set is appreciated!
Unfortunately, the H4 and OEMRelay terminals had different widths, although the connector shape was correct.
The OEMRelay terminal width is about 6.4mm, and this H4 terminal is about 7.7mm wide, about 1.3mm thicker, so Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) was shaved and prepared 0.6mm at a time.
However, the terminals are generated by folding a flat plate 180° with PRESS, so if both ends of the terminal are shaved, the folded part is lost and becomes RoseRose.
To avoid RoseRose, before shaving both ends, solder is poured inside the terminal to fix the PRESSED board firmly in place, and then both ends are shaved...Relay terminal is completed!
The completed terminal has a different width at the insertion point, but the rest of the terminal remains the normal H4 terminal shape, so it can be used by inserting it into an H4Socket as usual.
Just check the terminal positions of ICRelay and OEMRelay (they were in a position relationship that would not function if you stuck them in as they were) and assemble them.
We were able to connect the Relay receiving Connector on the car body side and the replaced ICRelay Connector while converting well.
The terminals included in the Connector set are gold-plated and magnificent, and their shape and strength are quite normal and perfect.
Male of H4Connector. It should be a rare occurrence, but if you are having trouble with HID or LED wiring, this is the perfect solution.
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As a replacement for OEMBlinker relay
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
In this situation, RearBlinker decided to change to ultra-small type LED's for various reasons.
The front is a Cowl recessed type, but since this is part of the body design, it is used as is, and the light bulbs inside are not converted to LEDs, but are left as they are.
This would be a hassle with bulbs in the Front and LEDs in the Rear, but times have evolved and there is now ICRelay, which supports a variety of wattages and makes everything look good.
The problem is replacing that ICRelay with the original Relay.
For ordinary Japanese cars, it is a 2-pole universal layout, so all you have to do is plug in the Conversion Connector that comes with the Relay, but unfortunately, DUCATI is a 3-pole Relay.
In addition, the connector is fixed to the body of the car, and the Relay is inserted into it, which is the opposite arrangement from that of domestic cars.
(For domestic cars, the RelayBody is mounted on the car body, and the Connector extending from the Harness is inserted into it.)
So we decided to disconnect and discard the UniversalConnector (Female side) from Relay and make our own Conversion Connector that would be Male-Male.
After carefully checking the terminal shape of the OEMRelay, I realized that it is the same as the H4Headlight Connector.
So we purchased a Kit to create H4Connector.
Although the connector shape is correct, the H4 terminal and the OEMRelay terminal have different widths.
The OEMRelay terminal width is about 6.4mm, and this H4 terminal is about 7.7mm wide, about 1.3mm thicker, so Quantity:Pair (for Left and Right) and shave 0.6mm each to make it ready.
However, the terminals are generated by folding a flat plate 180° with PRESS, so if both ends of the terminal are shaved, the folded part is lost and becomes RoseRose.
To avoid RoseRose, before shaving both ends, solder is poured inside the terminal to fix the PRESSED board firmly in place, and then both ends are shaved...Relay terminal is completed!
We were able to connect the Relay receiving Connector on the car body side and the replaced ICRelay Connector while converting well.
This time, the terminal included in the H4Connector set was the only one that worked without failure, so it did not come into play, but I purchased it as a spare in case the work failed.
Ordinary zinc-plated terminals (not gold-plated), very ordinary in shape and strength.
It is often used in the Connector for Large current, so it is a good idea to have it as a spare so you do not have to struggle in case of an emergency.
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6V For compatibility with Large type terminals that supply power to MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The car body was stored in a high humidity environment, so it was also battered by corrosion, but the humidity also entered the inside of the Harness and corroded the core wire in the cord, which was also battered.
Cut the damaged part, create a new Harness, and make a new Connector.
In the end, we had to redo the connector as the center of the connector, because moisture would penetrate and corrode from the area where it is crimped by the terminals in the connector.
When redoing a Connector, play it back in the existing Connector whenever possible.
It's a method of removing corroded terminals from a Connector and replacing only the terminals.
However, if the terminals are corroded, conduction resistance is created and heat is generated, which may cause the ConnectorBody to burn or melt.
Pinch especially Large-type Connectors with Large current flow when they are corroded.
So, this Connector, which is the source of the Large that supplies Battery power to 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness, was looking a bit iffy, so we replaced it with a new one.
Since it is a standardized product, it is fully interchangeable, and even if it is necessary to replace the harness again for some reason in the future, it can be interchanged without a hitch.
The milk-white Connectors seem to have a tendency to crack over time due to heat and UV rays, but the milk-white OEM Connectors have withstood 30 years without cracking, so I am sure this one will be large and durable.
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Used to extend BlinkerWiring
Used to extend the Right Side wiring as it was too short when replacing the Rear blinker.
Naturally, we were able to extend it without difficulty.
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Quantity when creating Harness:Pair (for Left and Right) for sharing
I bought a battered 900SS (900SL) and am Restore.
The body of the car is in shambles, but the Harness is fine! There is no such thing as a "wiring".
It looks fairly normal, but when I rolled up the end of the terminal a little, the copper wire inside was spewing GreenBlue, so when I rebuilt the damaged terminal, I also rebuilt the Wiring as much as possible.
In such a situation, it was often impossible to keep up with Black and Red alone, and it became necessary to purchase GreenWiring, which often appears as a signal wire or sub-Wiring.
You can buy 10 times the length at a wiring store, but it is cheaper overall to buy wiring while buying many Motorcycle supplies, so you can buy the cord at Webike.
The length of 2 m is a fair length, as it is not necessary to have a Large length to begin with.
And if it's not enough, you can just add more.
0.75sq is the same thickness as a typical thick Wiring.
The most commonly used is 0.5sq, but this thickness is OK because there is no problem for thicker.
There is also a modest Merit that Bullet Type Terminal is easy to Crimp because it is thicker and solder work is easy to do.
The coating has the same etc. feel as the OEM cord, and unlike Emon's, it has a semi-gloss finish (Emon has a Polished glossy coating), so there is no discomfort at all.
Material not Vinyl (PVC?) It is also easy to strip.
The core wire is also a solid copper wire and solder flows easily.
Since this is sufficient for Sunday mechanic in terms of performance, it is a recommendation to buy it by the way.
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