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MONO LINE Rear Single Shock [MZ Series] MZ366

YSS

15 Apr 2024

MONO LINE Rear Single Shock [MZ Series] MZ366

Fits: YAMAHA TW225E

Japanese Webike user

3/5

Large things are not explained! It is much shorter than OEM!

Caution before performance crap! This suspension. It's short. (Angry)
It is listed as TW200/225 compatible, and since there is no explanation, I thought it would be the same size, but it is much shorter than the OEM suspension.
If it wasn't the same size, I would have hoped there would have been an explanation. If I had known it was short, I would never have purchased it!

Seeing things, Once I don't have a ShacoTan in my off car. I paid high gold to buy Garbage. I was disappointed.
I doubt the designer's Sense, even if it's the old fashioned Ska tune type Custom. no Sense!

However, I paid a good amount of gold for it, and since it has been sitting for about six months after purchase, I would not be able to return it......so I am in an atrocious mood,
Since it has a coilover function, I extended it to the limit and installed it. Still, it is a little shorter than OEM. Too bad.
Comparing the appearance before installation, the damper section looks thinner and poorer than the OEM.
Pre-road is installed as shipped. Attenuation is at its lowest.
The front side is equipped with a Cartridge emulator and pre-road is also applied.

When installed, the suspension itself is shorter, but the spring rate is higher from the beginning and the sag is reduced, so the Rear ride height is higher at 1G's ride. (The optical axis is lowered.)
This is not the kind of thing I wanted, but I feel ・・・・ indescribable・・・・
Normally I wouldn't want to give it even 1 star, but after riding it... not bad ・・・・
Things are not bad.
It's very well controlled and of high quality. It is clearly different.
Completely stiffer for on road use. The front end tends to cut into the road as the vehicle's ass rises higher than the OEM during cruising.
It picks up fine Gap and has a lumpy feel. However, when stepping on the Gap or swell while turning, it becomes a crisp and snappy leg without wobbling. It is honestly easy to ride.
I think this will increase the risk of cocking up when going off-road, and I don't think it will be a comfortable ride...
It is intended for long-distance travel with luggage, so maybe a harder taste that is not as heavy is not a bad thing...
Supple in the beginning, stiff in the back. Stroke is up if you want....

I didn't get what I wanted due to the lack of explanation, but things are good from a different perspective and well, this is what I got.... It was the Rear Suspension that made me feel indescribable.
I don't like even 1 star if it's just for the emotion. But considering the performance of the product, it's not bad at all, in fact, it's rather admirable. I rated it as 3 Stars because of this.
It is very good for on road driving....
Whatever the case may be, I would have liked to have seen a better description of the product.

This would be good for those who are customizing for on road or want to lower the ride height.
The stiffer design may be suitable for heavier people or those who carry a lot of luggage.

Sorry for the poem. View detail

Titanium Handlebar End Vibration Damping Collar

NGK

15 Apr 2024

Iridium plug SIMR8A9 91064

Fits: HONDA Rebel300, HONDA CB300R, HONDA CB250F, HONDA DN-01, HONDA REBEL250, HONDA CRF250M, HONDA CRF250 RALLY ABS, HONDA CRF250L, HONDA CBR250R, HONDA CRF250 RALLY, HONDA CB250R

Japanese Webike user

3/5

Standard Windshield IRIDIUMSpec. I can't tell the difference from normal Plug.

I bought a used CRF250RALLY50MD44 with 12,000 km on the odometer and replaced all consumable parts.
Iridium plugs were adopted as standard, which was not expected.
I cannot experience that it starts particularly well or is Torque fully.
I have owned almost all 250 Class Trail bikes and Motard bikes, including those of other companies, so I am certain of this.
It's an expensive Plug, so I'm going to run it in with high hopes for durability at least. View detail

License Support Optional Parts Original Blinker Support (STD Blinker Bracket)

SPHERE LIGHT

11 Apr 2024

LED Headlight for Motorcycle RIZING2 H7

Japanese Webike user

3/5

They say it's good if it lasts 5 years.

After five years, it broke. When I removed it, the yellow-colored luminous body was shattered and the base was burnt to brown. The light suddenly faded and became like a miniature light bulb and disappeared. I was surprised because I happened to be watching it. It would have been extremely scary if I had been driving at night.

When I bought it, the yellow colored tip was not square and the corners looked peeled off in places. I asked the ManufacturerStaff if the Large tip was sturdy, but they said it was fine, so I had it installed.
Well, it would be impossible because it looks like the LED light-emitting base part is burnt out.

As for the product review, at 6000k.
It is not brighter than OEM, but the color is White, so some scenes actually look darker. It is still not as good as the most powerful HeadlightHID, but it looks better than the OEM Halogen when compared to rural roads and other places without streetlights. 。

However, in urban, city, suburban, and highway areas where there are some lights, the white LEDs are covered by the lights and it is difficult to tell whether the light is illuminating or not.
If the Type is one light on low and two lights on high, I would recommend changing the color temperature with low high.

This time I did the work myself, but when I first bought it, I was told that it would wait 20,000 hours or 10 years if it didn't break, but in fact it was 5 years, so I felt like I lost money, but that seems to be the way it is.

It is good that they are cheaper now because of the New Model, but I wish they would have stopped reducing the warranty to 2 years if they continue to claim that they can be used for a long time.

Now, how to do the work
This time, I performed the work myself, copying the way SphereLight's ManufacturerStaff actually did it on my Motorcycle.

As mentioned in the postscript, the way this Rubber fits (How to put it out?) If this is the case, the heat sink portion will be buried in the rubber, so I am concerned about whether the heat dissipation will be large enough to withstand the heat.

Turn the round cover of the OEM Headlight unit counterclockwise about 1 cm to remove it.
Remove the valve spring and remove the light valve.
Remove the Attachment from the Valve of the product and insert the removed Attachment into the place where the Headlight Bulb was inserted, with the four notches facing backward, and fasten it with the Spring.
At this point, you should install the Valve once in the Attachment and remember the feeling of pushing and turning it to install.
Attach the supplied CouplerConnector to the product as described in B of the Instruction Manual.
Connectors on the body side and the Light side are connected.
...At this point, conduct a lighting test.
The space inside the Headlight unit is quite large when you put your finger inside, so leave about 15cm of Wiring and put all Connectors and Controllers inside the Unit. (I put almost all of them in Space under Unit)
Note that if the wiring connected to the light is about 10 cm, the light valve will stick when the cover is attached and will not be able to be pierced.
If the controller rattles inside the headlight unit, use the Tie Band to hold the controller in place. I don't do it.
Once this is done, it is time to install the rubber cover, which is the most difficult part.
It takes several hours at worst, and although it is easy to install if the Rubber is heated considerably, it is not recommended because deformation is a concern.
The difficulty level increases because everything is put into the Unit.
Push the outer frame of the Rubber cover into the Unit.
At that time, the side that is folded should be toward the rear of the vehicle.
When you push it in, there are three indentations where the OEM's round cover fits.
Make sure three Folds are outside the Unit, then install the LED Bulb.
(Note that if you push the Rubber as hard as you can, only one Fold will come out backward.)
(The outer frame of the rubber cover of the type after the warranty period of 2 years is larger than that of the type before that, so it should be installed in a larger size.)
LED Bulb is perpendicular to the ground when installed.:Pair (for Left and Right) to be facing the
If the remaining wiring seems long, push it in a little at a time.

The above work was completed without making any cuts.
ManufacturerStaff had done this and it was a work procedure that worked fine.

However, if the rubber is pushed out this far, the heat sink will be buried in the rubber, so I wonder if the heat dissipation is Large sturdy. I wonder,
I had done it this way before, so I copied it as it was. View detail

DAYTONA

11 Apr 2024

VELONA Tacho Meter Kit

Fits: HONDA CL500, HONDA CL250

Japanese Webike user

3/5

It picks up Noise.

I thought I knew what ShiftTiming was even without the Tachometer.
The re-acceleration is inevitably slow in the SCENE that requires climbing the board.
I purchased it to keep track of RPMs.

While retrofitted, the position and Size are moderate, and the high brightness makes it easier to read than the OEM Speedometer.
However, the Clutch Cable runs through the Shift Up Indicator position, so it is not visible when the driver is riding. (I guess it depends on your body shape …)
Also, as is common with retrofitted tachometers, the rpm may rise or fall by around 500 rpm during cruising.

The performance is sufficient for me as I only needed to know the approximate number of revolutions.
I was able to correct my riding style because I was SHIFT UP at lower rpm than I expected.

The installation is more difficult because the tank needs to be lowered.
The illustrated Instruction Manual is clear and helpful and manageable.
However, although not a problem with this product, we had two problems during installation.

1. OEM Speedometer BracketMounting Bolt stuck at an angle.

It is fixed by biting into the Blinker Bracket and Meter Bracket.
The Bolt on the Meter Bracket was stuck at an angle, making it difficult to replace the Bolt.
(It's mainly Honda's fault since it's due to individual differences in the car body.)

2. occupies the power supply for Attachment (+ voltage shortage may occur)

The power supply for the Attachment provided on the Brake Side is used.
Already incompatible with USB power supply and Cigar socket.
The same thing happens when I make the connections as per the Instruction Manual, but
While the Cell is spinning, it seems to run out of voltage and reboots (re-opens).

The Harness length is long enough to reach the bottom of the Seat even through the bottom of the Tank.
I modified the Wiring to take power directly from Battery and it improved.
The voltage display function compares the voltage at the time of wiring according to the Instruction Manual with the voltage at the buffer.
The voltage seems to be slightly lower in the former. (It is not the fault of this product, but the spec. on the car body side.)
The following products were used for the Wiring change.

KIJIMA:ACC Branch Harness Kit]
https://www.webike.net/sd/21317023/

DAYTONA:Attachment Power Supply Unit D-UNITPlus]
https://www.webike.net/sd/24232600/ View detail