Reviews
JA55 Left hand Brake for mounting
JA55 Left Hand Brake (Rear) Purchased for mounting.
I purchased 1235mm, but 1210mm would have been fine if I could have worked out how to handle it,
Stainless Steel Mesh Hose for a Direct feel.
Right hand Brake when the opportunity arises. (Front) I would also like to replace the
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JA55 Left hand Brake for mounting
JA55 Left hand Brake purchased for installation
At first, I assembled it with 45°, but I felt the Hose was compressed, so I replaced it with 20°,
It was installed with natural handling.
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JA55 Left hand Brake for mounting
JA55 Left hand Brake purchased for installation
It was settled at 45° from Master Cylinder just fine.
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Steady making
I bought this one because I thought Stainless would be more durable than AluminumMaterial.
The product is well made and leak-free.
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The work itself is
The exclusive design of the car model allows for smooth installation.
However, as mentioned in the Instruction Manual, if Molybdenum grease is not applied at the banjo bolt, the fluid will seep and leak.
I read the Instruction Manual and installed it as is, thinking that it would be large and sturdy without grease, but the fluid leaked.
I had to rush out to buy Molybdenum grease.
We recommend that you prepare Molybdenum grease when you buy it, because Grease is not included.
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When installing bremboCaliper
Installed when bremboCaliper was installed.
I had the color I wanted and the installation was completed without difficulty.
We will see about durability in the future.
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No amateur Brake hose for homebrew
This is a fitting part for the brake system, but unlike the general banjo adapter, it is a part that is directly attached to the stainless mesh brake hose (#3).
In addition to cutting the hose, shaping the end faces, and forming the wires, it is necessary to accurately insert the internal parts called Olive to prevent the socket from falling out.
The level of work difficulty is quite high.
Failure to do so will result in the Brake slipping out and dying, so it is painful unless you understand the structure and are quite confident in your detailed work, or you have experience in making Brake hoses many times.
If the hose is assembled in a way that is easy to assemble, the effect of the hose reinforced with stainless mesh wire will be lost, and you will end up with a disappointing hose that is better than a rubber hose...but only a touch better than a rubber hose.
The angle cannot be adjusted after assembly as is the case with the Banjo adapter type, so it is necessary to consider the direction and angle from the time of assembly.
It takes a lot of hang to put it together well, and there are very few amateurs who can do it well.
Fortunately, I have experience in the past in producing 200 hose kits a day for a certain company, so I am very familiar with this fitting process and can freely assemble them in 5mm increments.
The Banjo adapter type would have eliminated such difficulties, but why bother using the troublesome Olive type?
It's a Type that I think lighter and Simpler is Cooler.
It's a world of complete self-congratulation, where the loud, anodized, lumpy, hardened Hose hates Large.
The part number indicates that it is an authorized Goodridge product.
Banjo made by Goodridge is thinner than those made by other companies, which is good for a stylish finish.
This Straight banjo is so common that there is nothing special to say about it.
This is the MAJOR shape when it comes to Brake Parts.
The 900SL we used this time has a rear caliper with a floating mount, and the OEM used a 90°banjo to rotate the hose backward and halfway around the axle shaft to make the suspension strokes large and sturdy.
That is the best way to be sure, but at any rate, Parenthesis is bad.
The long hose is especially noticeable when viewed from behind at a right angle, where Motorcycle looks the most parenthesis.
The OEM arrangement of the Hose crawling along the upper surface of the Swing Arm was abandoned in favor of a new arrangement that runs along the Torque rod to the Swing Arm pivot.
Then it is best to take the Rear caliper straight out facing forward, so that is what the Straight banjo is for.
Aluminum is a very moving part of the material, so safety is a priority.:Stainless Steel。
I really like the Chromate-treated iron one (5092-03P), but unfortunately they don't carry it....
The straight banjo covers the top opening of the caliper, so the pad cannot be replaced unless the caliper is removed, but this is not a problem since it will be removed for cleaning anyway.
(It would be easier to work with the air bleed in front of it, but it is not a problem because the air can only be removed by removing it and inserting a disc prepared separately.
Parts have been around for decades, and the performance is unquestionable.
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No amateur Brake hose for homebrew
This is a fitting part for the brake system, but unlike the general banjo adapter, it is a part that is directly attached to the stainless mesh brake hose (#3).
In addition to cutting the hose, shaping the end faces, and forming the wires, it is necessary to accurately insert the internal parts called Olive to prevent the socket from falling out.
The level of work difficulty is quite high.
Failure to do so will result in the Brake slipping out and dying, so it is painful unless you understand the structure and are quite confident in your detailed work, or you have experience in making Brake hoses many times.
If the hose is assembled in a way that is easy to assemble, the effect of the hose reinforced with stainless mesh wire will be lost, and you will end up with a disappointing hose that is better than a rubber hose...but only a touch better than a rubber hose.
The angle cannot be adjusted after assembly as is the case with the Banjo adapter type, so it is necessary to consider the direction and angle from the time of assembly.
It takes a lot of hang to put it together well, and there are very few amateurs who can do it well.
Fortunately, I have experience in the past in producing 200 hose kits a day for a certain company, so I am very familiar with this fitting process and can freely assemble them in 5mm increments.
The Banjo adapter type would have eliminated such difficulties, but why bother using the troublesome Olive type?
It's a Type that I think lighter and Simpler is Cooler.
It's a world of complete self-congratulation, where the loud, anodized, lumpy, hardened Hose hates Large.
The part number indicates that it is an authorized Goodridge product.
Banjo made by Goodridge is thinner than those made by other companies, which is good for a stylish finish.
This 45-degree banjo is a bit of an oddity, perhaps because it is rarely used by people, and its price is very high!
The common Straight banjo or 20°banjo can be purchased for almost half the price, so they are not usually used.
However, it is sometimes necessary to use a 45°banjo in order to get the Hose firmly through the targeted area (Stainless Steel Mesh Hose is susceptible to bending).
This time, it is used on the Master Cylinder side of the Front brake.
Since we are using a racing master, a mechanical stop lamp switch is not installed, so we decided to use a bremboOEM banjo bolt type hydraulic stop lamp switch.
I dislike hydraulic stop lamp switches, but I dislike the mechanical stop lamp switches on the market even more (they have a lot of small parts cluttering up the master cylinder and are not easy to maintain), so I used the Banjo type.
The hose is located right below the bracket, but I wanted to avoid interference with the Cowl Bracket and drop the hose into the trident at the shortest possible distance, so I decided to use the most expensive one.
The T-shape Hose with intermediate joints, and the method of fixing it to the three sides at the junction point, so it does not move even if the Handlebar is cut or Brake is applied... then Material:I had a feeling it could be Aluminum, but Material:Aluminum can crack the socket due to stress, so wire the safety and Material:Stainless Steel.
Parts have been around for decades, and the performance is unquestionable.
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No amateur Brake hose for homebrew
This is a fitting part for the brake system, but unlike the general banjo adapter, it is a part that is directly attached to the stainless mesh brake hose (#3).
In addition to cutting the hose, shaping the end faces, and forming the wires, it is necessary to accurately insert the internal parts called Olive to prevent the socket from falling out.
The level of work difficulty is quite high.
Failure to do so will result in the Brake slipping out and dying, so it is painful unless you understand the structure and are quite confident in your detailed work, or you have experience in making Brake hoses many times.
If the hose is assembled in a way that is easy to assemble, the effect of the hose reinforced with stainless mesh wire will be lost, and you will end up with a disappointing hose that is better than a rubber hose...but only a touch better than a rubber hose.
The angle cannot be adjusted after assembly as is the case with the Banjo adapter type, so it is necessary to consider the direction and angle from the time of assembly.
It takes a lot of hang to put it together well, and there are very few amateurs who can do it well.
Fortunately, I have experience in the past in producing 200 hose kits a day for a certain company, so I am very familiar with this fitting process and can freely assemble them in 5mm increments.
The Banjo adapter type would have eliminated such difficulties, but why bother using the troublesome Olive type?
It's a Type that I think lighter and Simpler is Cooler.
It's a world of complete self-congratulation, where the loud, anodized, lumpy, hardened Hose hates Large.
The part number indicates that it is an authorized Goodridge product.
Banjo made by Goodridge is thinner than those made by other companies, which is good for a stylish finish.
In such a situation, this 90-degreesBanjo is quite different.
The long Pipe is very bad parenthesis with long and beyounding....
Well, this is a problem that comes with the Adapter type as long as 90-degreesBanjo is used.
The reason why I am using such a bad parenthesis to make a difficult Hose is because I want to use a banjo bolt type hydraulic stop lamp switch on the Master Cylinder side of the Rear Brake.
So Straight or angled Fitting shape cannot be chosen and must inevitably be Banjo style.
Furthermore, air-cooled 2-valve systems such as the DUCATI 900SS have the Master Cylinder in an exquisitely odd position and the extraction position, and the Hose must be rotated with the GRU at the swing arm pivot.
Many people use a straight out from the Master Cylinder, but it is no good, because the Sus Stroke will apply force in the direction of folding the banjo.
The 90-degreesBanjo is the most comfortable for the hose, considering the swing arm pivot is halfway around the swing arm pivot.
Since it is such a long part and the suspension strokes are subject to a lot of force, the material is prone to fatigue damage.:Aluminum is a bit scary.
That's why Material:Stainless Steel.
Parts have been around for decades, and the performance is unquestionable.
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No amateur Brake hose for homebrew
This is a fitting part for the brake system, but unlike the general banjo adapter, it is a part that is directly attached to the stainless mesh brake hose (#3).
In addition to cutting the hose, shaping the end faces, and forming the wires, it is necessary to accurately insert the internal parts called Olive to prevent the socket from falling out.
The level of work difficulty is quite high.
Failure to do so will result in the Brake slipping out and dying, so it is painful unless you understand the structure and are quite confident in your detailed work, or you have experience in making Brake hoses many times.
If the hose is assembled in a way that is easy to assemble, the effect of the hose reinforced with stainless mesh wire will be lost, and you will end up with a disappointing hose that is better than a rubber hose...but only a touch better than a rubber hose.
The angle cannot be adjusted after assembly as is the case with the Banjo adapter type, so it is necessary to consider the direction and angle from the time of assembly.
It takes a lot of hang to put it together well, and there are very few amateurs who can do it well.
Fortunately, I have experience in the past in producing 200 hose kits a day for a certain company, so I am very familiar with this fitting process and can freely assemble them in 5mm increments.
The Banjo adapter type would have eliminated such difficulties, but why bother using the troublesome Olive type?
It's a Type that I think lighter and Simpler is Cooler.
It's a world of complete self-congratulation, where the loud, anodized, lumpy, hardened Hose hates Large.
The part number indicates that it is an authorized Goodridge product.
Banjo made by Goodridge is thinner than those made by other companies, which is good for a stylish finish.
However, Banjo style fittings are destined to have the oil flow path bend many times inside and pass through narrow gaps.
Since the brake system does not have a vanishing flow of fluid (the brake only propagates pressure, and the fluid flows inside only when the pad is reduced and absorbs volume), there is no problem with the Banjo method, but this is not the case with the Hydraulic Clutch.
Since a tremendous amount of Fluid comes and goes each time the Lever is held, having a BottleNeck in the middle of the flow path is a Large problem.
But this Large problem is hardly recognized, and Hydraulic Clutch is mostly Banjo type, including OEMs.
It is true that Clutch operation is no problem even with the Banjo system...but I was inevitably concerned about the poor lever touch, so I decided to configure the system to eliminate Banjo from the Clutch system in order to ensure the highest Large flow rate.
We wanted a fee ring like a wire-style clutch with a heavy lever that cuts and connects in a snap.
Ideally, a commercial RacerTZ250 Clutch.
This is why we adopted the Fitting method, which was extremely effective!
From the air release stage, the lever moves in a passive manner and moves quickly in both the grip and release directions!
The feel is excellent because the fluid flows without resistance, and once you know this, you will never want to use a Banjo type Hydraulic Clutch again.
Although there are cheaper 90° bent Pipe fittings (with no performance problems), we chose this type (called "Forge") because of its parenthesis priority.
Brake Caliper is also employed with Parenthesis priority (Brake uses Banjo on the Master Cylinder side, so it does not make sense).
It is a waste of money to buy a 90°fitting when the handling is the same as when using a straight banjo or a 20°banjo!
Parts have been around for decades, and the performance is unquestionable.
Also, whatever, it's super Cool.
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Stainless Steel is safe
I chose stainless steel to match the black brembo. The color was not pure black, but it was a nice combination of colors. View detail
While changing the MASTER
JC92.OEMSwing Arm, brembo new Crab lower side, once UTurned forward like OEM, it was just right.
I am very happy that I was able to buy it at a low price on Sale.
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For grom jc92
I chose Stainless Steel because it was on sale at a lower price and I was told by an acquaintance that Aluminum can break.
This time we have Grom JC92 for Rear with 20 degrees on MASTER side and Straight on Caliper. Caliper is the new Crab.
Since we did the same pull as the OEM, it was easy to follow the Swing Arm.
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Single-push 3-pod conversion.
Piston not used in D-CBSCancellation has been restored.
Normal master for 2-piston, so Lever's Stroke has increased, but controllability is better.
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You can choose the length appropriate for your condition.
*Selected the shortest distance because I used 3 bottles and forgot the length already.
[How is it used?
Quantity on the front of vehicles not equipped with ABS:2 pcs (h-type), 1 pc used for Rear
Both are thought to have been used for more than 6 years and 60,000 km, but no records are kept, so the exact values are unknown.
I am almost always in Touring Maine, and rarely in the Shop.
Brake fluid is ACTIVE 4.0 or 5.1
Was the one you received as per Image?
Simple connection with Hose as per Image.
Compared to SWAGE-LINE, this product has a stiffer connection, which is why I prefer it.
Was the installation difficult?
I think I bought a slightly shorter hose because it was a Rear Sets, but I don't remember, so it may have been OEM.
I think I replaced the handlebar with a shorter one when I had my R25, because I replaced the handlebar with Daytona's Universal Product and lowered it, but I don't have a record of it, so I'm not sure.
As for Front, I made a rerouting that once extended from the OEM mid-branch to Caliper, but I don't think I stumbled upon anything.
For Rear, the troubles in routing were not difficult to overcome, as it mimics the OEM's fixed position and routing.
I think the air venting was generally a hassle.
I think it was easier to install the Adapter because the tip of the hose spins around, so I felt like I had to decide on the angle of the Adapter before fixing it in place.
How was your experience with it?
I've seen a lot of talk about Brake being tightly, but it wasn't particularly subtle enough to make a difference.
While deterioration of rubber parts in various parts of the vehicle is noticeable, unlike OEMHose, there are no rubber parts, which provides a sense of security against deterioration.
Stainless Steel, but the fear of snowmelt attack has not changed that much.
[Included Parts:were they on?
Hose only. Necessary Banjo, Adapter, and Fluid must be purchased separately.
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
None
Quantity everything for vehicles:There are set products on the market, but I think the advantage is that you can buy what you think is best suited to the condition of your vehicle. For some reason, almost all of them are black, but only some Adapters are made of normal Stainless Steel, so there is a high degree of freedom.
The product itself is a robust product that has been running for a number of miles and years with no apparent problems yet.
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Typical without, but nice to have.
[How is it used?
Period:April 25, 2020 to November 20, 2023 Ongoing use as of November 20, 2023
Distance:69,688 - 49,815 = 19,873 km
Rear Master Cylinder:YZF-R6OEM
footpeg:striker (https://www.webike.net/sd/1545442/)
Banjo bolt:ACTIVE Pressure switchSingle (https://www.webike.net/sd/1540563/)
Was the one you received as per Image?
Simple Rubber parts as shown in the Image
Was the installation difficult?
This product is easy to install because it is simply covered through the wiring of the Pressure switch.
When replacing the banjo bolt with a hydraulic switch, air venting around the brake and wiring modification are required, which increases the time and effort required.
How was your experience with it?
I felt that it was susceptible to heat near the Engine and to dust and sand due to the lower part of the body, but I still haven't avoided it and it seems to be durable.
The wiring part of the pressure switch is in the assertive red color, but with this product, it can be hidden in the black color without discomfort.
The interference with the frame was already quite limited at the time of installation, but after use, no loosening, etc. has yet occurred and no interference has occurred.
The thin but slightly rigid rubber seems to be effective in protecting the wiring and guiding the wiring to the inside of the vehicle when bent 90-degrees.
[Included Parts:were they on?
Nothing in particular as this is the only product available.
If you wrap a black insulating tape around it, you can protect it without this product, and you can also hide the red part without this product. However, since it is a special product, it has a sense of unity with Hydraulic Switch and a sense of blending in with the car body.
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If only the hose is Stainless, there is not much change, but … to Refresh the appearance.
The front brake hose bolt on my DRZ400sm K9 that I bought from a private seller on Yahoo auctions was so corroded and uncomfortable that I bought this hose first and installed it in anticipation of replacing it with a Brembo caliper.
Frankly, the Touch feeling with Snap is scarce as it is with OEMCaliper.
Of course, compared to the OEM rubber hose, the initial feel of the hose is stronger, but when you grip the lever deep down, it feels like it's biting the air. I'm not sure if I'm biting air or not, but it's a bit of a whiff.
We have tried three times to bleed the air, but little has changed.
According to a mechanic at a motorcycle shop that I sometimes visit, if the size of the master is not increased, the soft fee rings will not change.
I was happy with my replacement because I wanted to at least keep it looking nice for now.
The work itself is not particularly difficult, so if you are doing the work yourself, please be sure to take care of Torque control and air venting.
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Fluid is slightly blotchy….
I wanted to make the crossover type of Swage linePRO into an h-shape and shorten the hose length as much as possible, so I purchased this GOODRIDGE 160mm and 310mm hose and a T-shaped 3-way Fitting Adapter.
However, I was so traumatized that I could not remove the air from the OEM Master Cylinder, and I wanted to reduce the air removal work as much as possible, and I was tempted to remove the Caliper and wash it in the washroom. I wanted to reduce the amount of air venting work as much as possible. (It was too expensive and the quantity was too high).:2pc. Set can't be bought either, so only 1 pc. …)
However, due to the fitting, it was not possible to make the "h" shape, which was the original goal, and the 310mm Hose and 3-way Fitting Adapter were not used.
The installation was completed without any difficulty, and after bleeding the air, we went for a test run to confirm that the brake was working properly.
When inspecting the Hose area after the test ride, is the Hose fitting on the underside of the Stoveli wet?
At any rate, I wiped it off that day and checked it about a week later and found that the fitting was still wet, so it might be Overtorque, but I retightened it and left it again.
I gave up because the Fluid still oozed out of the Fitting.
*I think it's usually NG, but it's not like it leaks, it's more like it seeps, so I always inspect it before driving.
At first, I was afraid that it was leaking from Stoveli, but there was no Fluid adhering to the Connector, and Fluid was adhering from the Fitting of the Hose connected to the Stoveli, and it seemed to be slightly seeping from the Fitting on the Caliper side, and after driving, the Dust seemed to be adhering as shown in the image. After driving, it seems that dust is adhered as shown in the image.
The Swage line installed on the upper side of the Stove top is not seeping, so I would like to change it to theirs, but the minimum hose length is 20cm even with Easy order, so I would like to leave it as it is for a while, and if the symptoms worsen, I would like to take measures.
By the way, I used this GOODRIDGE Hose on another vehicle and it never bled, so I'm sorry to hear you pulled a HaGap.
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neat and tidy
The brake hose became thinner and refreshed. The Brake may have started to work slightly earlier. Is it my imagination? View detail
All black looks tighter!
[How is it used?
I used it on my XJR1300C. Handlebar is DAYTONA RCM with antlion Handlebar Post.
The Handle position is lower and narrower than NORMAL.
Was the one you received as per Image?
The stainless black color looks tight and fits the atmosphere of the vehicle.
Was the installation difficult?
It is not difficult if you can bleed air.
How was your experience with it?
It originally came with Stainless from the Swage line, so the performance aspect is honestly no different.
Touch is also unchanged.
However, the Fitting section is now much SMART and looks better.
[Included Parts:were they on?
See second image.
[Was there anything that disappointed you?
I think the T2Type is a little bit messy in terms of the parts to be branched from MASTER.
I would like to see a 2WaySeparator (sold separately) as standard equipment.
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